hellomynameis

I figured I would clarify what I could from the odometer fix sticky (https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/faq-...-fix-pics.html).

Step one: Remove the black bezel that surrounds the gauges. It is a Torx bit. Can't remember what size and I can't find my notes, where I have the size written down. (SOMEONE PLEASE POST THE SIZE OF THE BIT. IT WOULD HELP EVERYONE OUT)

2: Remove the 10mm nuts that are next to the warning lights.

3: Remove the panel that is under the steering column. You do not have to drop the steering column in order to remove the gauges, but it would be VERY helpful. If you do not lower the column, then you will need to tape your column up until the point where it pivots/tilts. You need to do this because you will have ZERO wiggle room to get the gauges out. I thought that I could get the gauges out without scratching the column and that it would have enough clearance. WRONG. Luckily the scratches aren't that noticable. In short, either drop the colum or tape the column.

4: Although I did not do this for removal, I was able to pull the slack out of my speedo cable in order to get my gauges out. The speedo cable is the only thing that holds the gauges in at this point. (Unless I'm forgetting something) If you pull the slack out before you take the gauges out, it would make removing the gauges much easier. It would also save you from spending two hours underneath the dash trying to get that #&%!$* clip off. Learn from my mistakes. Also, remember to move wires around in order to be able to see the speedo cable and clip. The cable HAS to go to the back of the speedo, so don't give up looking for it. I found it by putting some pillows over the rocker panels, laying down, and resting my head on the side of the console in order to be able to see the cable. Be careful doing this, as your spine will be prone to breaking in this position. Push the speedo clip towards the dash, not the firewall, to remove it. It will take some tickling and wiggling to get it off. (Insert joke here)

5: Pull the gauges out and remove the speedo/odometer.

6: Remove the odometer from the speedometer. The wrench size for this is 5.5mm (IIRC). It was a total PITA for me. You'll get it eventually.

WILL POST PICTURES WHEN I CAN GET THEM REDUCED

7: Figure out if one or both J-clips are broken. In picture 855, you can see an intact J-clip. In picture 854, you can see no J-clip. In picture 858, you can see where the J-clip broke off. You can also see how this has allowed the assembly to move up from where it is supposed to be.

hellomynameis

Picture 859 shows how far up it has moved. Picture 863 shows where the shaft is supposed to be when it is in the right position. Note that it is almost at the same level as the plastic protusion that is to the left of it. In picture 864, you can see how far the same shaft is above the little plastic protusion.

hellomynameis

You need to get the lower shaft back into the channel and in the right position, which is almost at the bottom of the channel. Picture 865 shows this. Do not completely bottom the shaft out. The reset will not work this way. It has to have a little bit of room to move when reseting. You can see my wire that I used to hold the clip in position.

When you think you have it fixed, spin the little blue gear (Picture 861), which will put some miles on your trip odometer and not your regular odometer. Push the reset button. If it works, then YAAAYY! It's miller time!! If it doesn't, then modify it so it does.

8. Put some lithium grease or graphite on the speedo cable to stop it from sticking while you are in here. Also, replace any broken light bulbs.

9: Put the gauges and all panels back on.

10: Go

If you have any questions, I'll answer what I can. I would also suggest, if you haven't already, spend $25-35 on ebay and buy a used service manual. They are extremely helpful and it gives you a definite answer to a lot of questions. (Ironically, it will provide zero useful information on your odometer.)