Door Lock Actuators
#1
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Door Lock Actuators
Who's changed the door lock actuators? Big deal? Straight forward? Did it fix the sticking problem?
j
j
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Door Lock Actuators
door panels are off.. not a drill expert.. did you mount the new ones with screws? Got any pics of the before and after?
thx!
j
thx!
j
#4
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Re: Door Lock Actuators
I don't have any pics of the proceedure. But a drill bit that is the same size of the rivet is needed. Drill straight through it and that should be it. I used a new rivet but people have used an appropriate sized screw and bolt. I am sure someone else with chime in shortly.
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Car: 86 Iroc-Z28
Engine: 5.3
Transmission: 4l60
Re: Door Lock Actuators
I just went with a universal keyless system from ebay works great to took a bit of adjusting the position, little lithium grease sprayed on the locking rods inside the door makes everything smooth and gets rid of the stickyness
#7
On Probation
Re: Door Lock Actuators
Before you run and replace your working/sticking accuators try a bit of cleaning
and lubing of the latches/slides/rods and related parts.
Remove the years of crud/old lube/dirt and be amazed how well they work!
Cured my sticky power locks.................
and lubing of the latches/slides/rods and related parts.
Remove the years of crud/old lube/dirt and be amazed how well they work!
Cured my sticky power locks.................
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#8
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Door Lock Actuators
I have tried that.. and the driver's door is close.. passenger side isn't playing along. I'd much rather just fix these.. but, don't know if it's doable. They definitely sound like they hit hard.
j
j
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Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: L31
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Door Lock Actuators
I had the same problem, I used search here and followed the advise to shoot WD40 behind the boot on top. It freed mine up and I get a full throw on them. If I did it again I would do PB Blaster after because WD40 isn't a good lubricant, but it is a decent solvent.
#11
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Re: Door Lock Actuators
I had the same issues with the sticking. Lubed all the rods, connections, etc. These motor are hit and miss in build quality. Overtime they will go out and regardless of what you do to try and fix it, there is no way around it but to replace them. I'm not one to shell out money if the part can be fixed, but these power door lock actuators crap out period.
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Car: '89 Formula
Engine: L98 350
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Door Lock Actuators
Just did mine a couple of weeks ago. Make sure you clean/lube (as best you can) the actual latching mechanism in the end of the door. That's what was causing my driver's side lock not to work properly. Both sides work great now!
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Car: 87 Iroc
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: Built 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi
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Car: 87 Iroc
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: Built 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi
Re: Door Lock Actuators
Did my locks yesterday and happy to report they work again! Didn't have to get new actuators or anything, just went at it with brake cleaner to get all the old sludge out then put a good coat of wd40 on it and they work like day one
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Car: 1987 Transam
Engine: LT1 conversion
Transmission: Rebuilt 700r4 w/2400 stall
Axle/Gears: 373
Re: Door Lock Actuators
Yep I just did my doors recently too and man what a difference a can of WD40 can make!
They work like new now. Don't forget to shoot some WD40 straight into the key hole as well.
They work like new now. Don't forget to shoot some WD40 straight into the key hole as well.
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