I drive an 87 camaro. It’s the really basic model that doesn’t have power windows or power locks.

Is it possible to replace its doors with doors from a camaro with power windows and locks? Im sure it would require a lot of wiring but how difficult is it actually?

Thanks 👍

 

I'm in the process of doing this right now. Got a full kit from ThirdGenRanch, includes the regulators, motors, lock solenoids and wiring harness. You have to pull the IP out though as the harness goes cross car and the conduit is right below the windshield along the firewall.

 

In most cases, I'd say it's not worth it. You don't have to replace the doors, all the power parts will rivet right in. The wiring is a little more involved, getting the entire harness from close to the same year car helps, but routing it is a bit of a pain.

The big issue is that by any modern standard the power locks/windows in these cars don't function that well. The windows move slow, the locks tend to be sticky, etc. On the other hand, the manual locks/windows work fantastic. It's entirely possible to get the junkyard hard parts, and new solenoids/motors/switches, only to have locks you still have to walk around and lock manually because hitting the lock button only slides the lock **** half way. FWIW.

 

I don't disagree, I have my car stripped down to bare metal and I'm pretty much doing a restoration rather than just adding things. Most of the cons are related to age rather than design failure though. Sticky locks are due to residue and failed lubricant in the latch, slow windows are likely the same issue of old lubricant. Replacing or cleaning these items will make a world of difference.

Don't expect it to be any easy install though, it took me about four hours to retape the harness and drop it in the car. This is without an IP or fenders so it was easy to pop out the plugs in the H-pillar and door and run it cross-car. Plus I also do stuff like this for a living. Tested it out, the left lock worked fine but the right was having a difficult time actuating. Turned out the latch was gummed up from 20 some years of not being used, big surprise... Order up new ones for both sides figured I'm in there so no reason not to. Thankfully the lock relay worked because the only new one I've found is $90...

 

Just a heads up to anyone looking to do this, have someone else available to hold and raise and lower the glass while trying to install the regulator. It's extremely difficult to do it yourself and having someone manipulate the glass makes it a breeze. Also the door has two sets of holes, the power regulator uses the ones the manual regulator doesn't.

 

It's a good idea to buy new replacement lock solenoids rather than re-installing used parts; the original lock solenoids are almost ALWAYS 'sloppy' and weak to to usage over time. I've even seen the rivets holding it loose several (many) times and changing it allows you to use real nuts/bolts to firmly secure the solenoid.

I beg to differ; removing the glass from it's tracks and the regulator entirely before removing the regulator is the WTG. IMO it's better to let it sit at the bottom of the door while removing the regulator. I just swapped the door glass in both doors a couple days ago; putting the glass back on it's tracks is easy and allowing it to sit on it's own seems safer for you -----> and the glass.

*I work solo & always use a spare battery and 2 jumper wires to power the regulator UP/DOWN as needed when working on a power window.

Good to point that out !! This pic shows them:


With Manual windows, The 2 FRONT rivets holding the regulator in place are located in the front mounting holes closest to the BACK of the car. (See pic)

With Power Windows , The 2 FRONT rivets holding the regulator in place are located in the front mounting holes closest to the FRONT of the car (See un-used holes in yellow circles).

The other 2 regulator mounting holes ( red circles ) will line up with the right door holes once the front 2 are in set in the right place (depending on the swap. )


* might be helpful to someone,....... the shorty 10mmm bolts & matching 10mm nuts that hold all the door tracks and brackets to the door are perfect hardware to replace the original rivets that hold the regulator and lock solenoid in place. One of the regulator holes is a PITA to get the bolt into ( gotta' move the window to gain access, bolt goes from the inside of the door pointing to the inside of the car ) but that 10mm hardware is perfect for re-installing that stuff !