AC Questions
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From: Janesville, WI
Car: 1989 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
AC Questions
Hey all -
My AC went out this year and my compressor is starting to make bearing noise, maybe from running low on fluid? Anyways.. I am looking to replace my compressor, o-rings and fittings and run R134. I think I also need ot upgrade my Orifice tube if memory serves me right.
My question is.. outside of compressor, what do I need? Where can I find the proper o-rings and fittings?
I'm told I should also replace my condenser and evap core, but that may not be fully necessary.
Any links or guidance is appreciated!
My AC went out this year and my compressor is starting to make bearing noise, maybe from running low on fluid? Anyways.. I am looking to replace my compressor, o-rings and fittings and run R134. I think I also need ot upgrade my Orifice tube if memory serves me right.
My question is.. outside of compressor, what do I need? Where can I find the proper o-rings and fittings?
I'm told I should also replace my condenser and evap core, but that may not be fully necessary.
Any links or guidance is appreciated!
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 2,188
Likes: 243
From: Austin, TX
Car: 90 Formula / T-tops
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: MD8
Re: AC Questions
I tore it all out, cleaned it up good, and made sure airflow was correct over condenser. also made sure fresh door flaps sealed correctly while in there. they were fine, but if you don't look, you wont know. cleanliness and carefulness is the key to success to get r134a working well. no shortcuts.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...ispreloading=1
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...ispreloading=1
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,220
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From: Atlanta
Car: '02 T/A WS6, '91 T/A, '91 Camaro RS
Engine: LS1, LB9, L03
Transmission: T56, 700R4, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.10 10 bolt, 2.73 10 bolts
Re: AC Questions
I didn't replace my evap core, or condenser when I did the conversion -- just used a standard R134a retrofit kit from Amazon, replaced the receiver/dryer and orifice tube, and replaced the seals on the compressor since they were leaking. You'll want to use PAG 100 oil as well. All of this stuff can be found on Amazon.
This setup worked fine and blew cold for me for 5 years until the bearing on the original compressor went out last year -- replaced the compressor with a new AC Delco, replaced the receiver/dryer and orifice tube again, and also had to replace the condenser that time, as it got clogged up with bearing bits from the compressor.
This setup worked fine and blew cold for me for 5 years until the bearing on the original compressor went out last year -- replaced the compressor with a new AC Delco, replaced the receiver/dryer and orifice tube again, and also had to replace the condenser that time, as it got clogged up with bearing bits from the compressor.
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Hawaii
Car: 89' Firebird / 87' Formula
Engine: 3.4 / 5.0
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / 3.42
Re: AC Questions
there are so many ways to do it... replace everything at a considerable cost, or you can also literally just get a new compressor, r134a fittings and call lit a day.
Both will blow cold but Id prefer to do it the right way and get peace of mind with a new everything.... . ive done both, the expensive way for my car and the cheap way for my truck... no problems with either and both blow about 35 or lower..
Aside from the compressor though, the other cheaper / "correct" way is the the middle way would be to get a new compressor, fittings, an accumulator, replace all old r-12 o rings to green r-134a o rings and flush the system (since your compressor is making noises youll want to do this to flush out possible shavings / for the compressor warranty) and vacuum the system and shoot in r-134a in. . along with new PAG150 oil...some people use 100... 150 works fine for me.
People say to swap to a different FORD orifice tube but I find a stock GM orifice for a r-12 works perfectly fine with R-134... .
Depends on your budget / how committed you are to doing it "right"
Side note, the easiest way to check if your system is full if you don't have gauges etc... is to see that the accumulator is the same cold temp top to bottom. It should be cold like touching an ice tray.
Both will blow cold but Id prefer to do it the right way and get peace of mind with a new everything.... . ive done both, the expensive way for my car and the cheap way for my truck... no problems with either and both blow about 35 or lower..
Aside from the compressor though, the other cheaper / "correct" way is the the middle way would be to get a new compressor, fittings, an accumulator, replace all old r-12 o rings to green r-134a o rings and flush the system (since your compressor is making noises youll want to do this to flush out possible shavings / for the compressor warranty) and vacuum the system and shoot in r-134a in. . along with new PAG150 oil...some people use 100... 150 works fine for me.
People say to swap to a different FORD orifice tube but I find a stock GM orifice for a r-12 works perfectly fine with R-134... .
Depends on your budget / how committed you are to doing it "right"
Side note, the easiest way to check if your system is full if you don't have gauges etc... is to see that the accumulator is the same cold temp top to bottom. It should be cold like touching an ice tray.
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