I'm having the infamous power door locks not moving all the way to lock/unlock problem, I'm out of Ideas, (I've only taken the drivers side appart so far...the pass side is having the same problem...hopefully the same solution)I changed out the solonoid, I took out the door latch/lock mechenisem (the thing that engagues the striker, with the 3 torex bolts and 4 rods) cleaned the crap out of it with brake clean various wire brushes until it was spotless then re-lubed with silicone spray and re-instaslled....and I sprayed down the belcrank that changes the direction of the solonoid with brake clean then silicone lube....I've also hit up every moving part/rod I've found with silicone spray....nothing I do can get it to accuatuate to fully lock/unlock...what am I missing

 

I don't have the answer for you, but I have a suspicion it is not enough electrical power getting to the door lock actuators. It seems all these 3rdGens have weak door lock issues, but they didn't come from the factory that way. Both my 3rdGens have this problem but I have too much else keeping me busy to bother fixing it right now. I have tried the whole clean and lube thing too, along with new actuators with no significant improvement. About all there is left is a power supply issue I think.

 

A fellow on this site has a hardware solution for the door locks. u will have to search.

 

following and bumping, this is on the list for my car as well and I was hoping it was just a new solenoid and a cleaning/regrease.

 

one other thing...with the voltage... and the ground....I was having trouble last week with intermittant operation before I even ordered the new solonoids....I found the screw that holds/grounds the relay loose....I tried to tighten it but the thereds were stripped....so I used my angle grinder and ground down the paint/rust on the tab/body where it mounts and put a bigger self tapping screw in the hole....than I heated the area up with my soldering gun and melted some solder between the relay and the body....I think the ground is good at least, I checked voltage at the connector....I got 10.82V one way and 10.78v the other which seemed low, I tried using a seperate car battery on its own connector directly attached to the power door lock and still no full accuation.....I disconnected the rod between the bellcrank and the solonoid and it took some effort to accuate the bellcrank by hand ....im thinking my problem is in the door latch....I ordered a new one, it will be here Tuesday..