for some of the guage wiring for an LT1 swap..... which would be better and why?

It seems easier to make the splices under the dash with the C220 and C230 connectors. Already should splice into the C207 for the vats wire. So why not?

From the C220 connector, it looks like I can get the oil pressure, Serial data, vehicle speed, fuel pump relay control and coolant temp

From C230 it looks like the SES light, tach signal and VATS

That would leave mainly the power wires from the C100 connectors if I'm not mistaken.

Am I thinking in the right direction here?

Thanks

 

Jay,

Probably a little late, but when I did my LS1 wiring, my gauges and VATS went through C220 and C230 as well.

 

B,
I was thinking I could run most of those wires through the C207 connector instead of the C100 connector. Obviously you can't and I have them running to the C100 connector.

Still can't figure out why it won't crank though.

I must not have power to something important lol

thanks

-jason

 

What all did you use from your donor car? When I did my LS1 swap, I used the 4th Gen underhood fuse center as well, which contains the start enable relay. I simply routed the ground control side of that relay to the VATS module. Also make sure you hooked the clutch start switch back up.

 

The start enable relay is in the underhood fuse box? I pulled a bright yellow relay from under the dash that went to the vats box and that was listed as the start enable relay.

Guess I need to do some more reading. Plus I'm not sure exactly where I'd tie into the clutch switch.

Maybe next year it'll run! LOL

Thanks B

-jason

 

Yeah, the start relay is in one of the two underhood fuseboxes, along with the injector fuses, ignition fuses, fan relays and fuses and a few others that I don't really remember. I just remember those when I was tearing the wiring out of a 00 TA that we were pulling the motor/tranny out of that was hit hard in the front.

 

Are you using just the engine harness, or the entire underhood 4thgen harness? I used the entire underood harness, so mine was different. You'll have to trace your starter circuit and see where it all goes.

 

I'm just using the underhood harness. Most of the underdash harness was toast, but I did try to save what I could......

Right now its baby steps. Gotta hook up the vats, the clutch enable switch and see what happens.

Right now when I turn the key, I get 12v from the purple (i think) switched wire going to the starter, but it isn't cranking. I do need to trace out my wiring, just limited on how much time I can spend on this at a time. Think I managed 4 hrs this past week.

I can't remember, but doesnt' the 3rd gen underdash harness have its own start enable relay? Definitely need to go back and trace some wiring.....

Thanks again

-jason

 

If the battery cable is hooked up to the starter, and you have 12V on the purple wire at the starter while in the "CRANK" position, then you probably have a bad starter, or you could be lacking a ground from the block to the battery.

If you have 12V on the purple wire like you stated, then it sounds like everything under the dash is good.

 

Well I can get it to crank if you use channel locks to jump the solenoid. I am using the puple wire from the C100 block to the starter. When you turn the key, it has 12v. I have the groung cable going to the front oil pan bolt. Not the greats spot, but that is where it reached.


I'll keep messing with it.

Thanks for the insight B

-jason