Nice job on the swap, did the carb force you to run a cowl hood, or could you have used the stock IROC hoood?

 

Thanks. The carb would clear but the breather wouldnt. The hood was on the car before the swap.

 

New best 1/8th

1.68 60'
7.18 at 94 mph

Still on the stock 10 bolt

 

That is a high 10 second quarter, that is very good. Congrats.

 

wow man, you got yourself a nice setup all the way around...good job

 

lil shy of tens.
mph looks a lil low for the et, any problems with the tranny or anything?

 

I used two calculators and it said a 10.7

Only way to know for sure is to do it

 

I agree with ya about being shy of tens. At our track you can usually add about 4.0 secs to get my 1/4 on a run where everything goes properly ( which I have had a hard time doing this summer).As to the et/mph I know its the n2o I have been trying some different things all why not breaking my rearend.check out these slips

#1 #2
1.68 60'
7.18 @ 94
11.412 @115

#2
1.93 60'
7.46 @ 98.8
11.415 @124.2

Both on a 100 shot

Run #1 the n2o fell off at about 600'. #2 I turned on the n20 on about the 330 mark.

 

Nice job, the car looks good too.

 

nice car, clean install.


HPT = 500
Ebay laptop = 100-200

thats 700.

Just curious, what kind of gas millage are you getting with the carb?

 

what # are you using?
figure 1/8 mile X 1.57 to get a close estimate.

 

Never checked the milage. Id say it nothing compared to to efi. I will figure the next tank and let you know.

 

i got great milage with my carb setup until i put a 4.33 gear in.
with a 3.70 and a 28" tire, i could get 18 not hot rodding it.
driving around getting on it and stuff, around 13mpg.

sure is fun.
keep us updated on the track times.
once you get the nitrous dialed in, its gonna fly.

 

Stage, I get just a little better than that with my FI Head/Cam LS1, thats pretty good

 

6.LIROC-Z, that car looks wicked sweet...

I'm planning on throwing a 6L into my GTA (along with the L92 heads) during this off-season - I'll be happy if it runs like yours does. Good job.

 

With those heads you should be at least a couple of tenths faster than me easy

 

Here is the chart that I use, which I found in an "Car Craft":

1/8=1/4
4.6=7.08
4.7=7.24
4.8=7.39
4.9=7.55
5.0=7.70
5.1=7.85
5.2=8.00
5.3=8.16
5.4=8.32
5.5=8.47
5.6=8.62
5.7=8.78
5.8=8.93
5.9=9.09
6.0=9.24
6.1=9.39
6.2=9.55
6.3=9.70
6.4=9.86
6.5=10.01
6.6=10.16
6.7=10.32
6.8=10.47
6.9=10.63
7.0=10.78
7.1=10.93
7.2=11.09
7.3=11.24
7.4=11.40
7.5=11.55
7.6=11.70
7.8=12.01
7.9=12.17
8.0=12.32
8.1=12.47
8.2=12.63
8.3=12.78
8.4=12.94
8.5=13.09
8.6=13.24
8.7=13.40
8.8=13.55
8.9=13.71
9.0=13.86
9.1=14.01
9.2=14.17
9.3=14.32
9.4=14.48
9.5=14.63
9.6=14.78
9.7=14.84
9.8=15.09

 

Man, I wish those were true for my car

 

Stage20.....are you using the th350/LSX combo? IF so, can ive got a couple of questions 4 ya....



That car is ubber sexy and from what it seems runs fkin hard! I love the set up, b/c thats exactly what im doing to my 82Z28....i will try to post pics soon...as im almost done (need oil pan, manifold,carb, converter and BLAMO...done)

Sorry for thread jacking.......

 

350/lsx here.

i think the conversion table is a lil bit ahead of itself in the 1/4 mile times.
maybe thats a chart for street tires, or setup for non optimum traction.
the 1/4 times are a lil fast, IMO

 

Just checked the milage and its better than I thought, 15 mpg w/26'' tire and some wot playing around.

 

think i could get by with that intake and no spacer/air cleaner and still run a stock 83z28 hood? it's a race car...doesn't need an air cleaner.

 

depends on the motor mounts you use.
the GM intake, NO spacer, and it might clear.
i switched to a victor jr unit and have a HVH super sucker spacer and my 3" drop base setup no longer fits. and i have a SS hood on the car.
hopefully someone will post up with more accurate info.

 

i'm planning on a vic jr setup as well with my project, which will go better with the t-rex camshaft than the others available. i'm really wanting to keep the hood i got though. i suppose i can make motor mounts to lower the engine in the car. any idea how low you can go when using the hawks/stainless works headers? i'm sure going with a tubular k-member will increase the clearance issues as well, which might not be a bad idea anyhow.

pic of my hood:

 

I know that most LS_ (or LQ_) set low in the car to start with. I don't think you could get much lower without hitting the oil-pan on the crossmember.

 

well, i think (based on looking at the pics) that i could get by with running this hood and no air cleaner, which i don't mind on a race only car. i'll just put a cover over the carb when it's not running. it's not that big of a deal to keep these things clean when not running an air cleaner.

i got a few questions for you guys now, especially the ones running carbs:

anyone running one of the gm front covers with the distributor drive? i'm very interested in how that is working and if that would be worth buying instead of the msd box and all new coils and wiring harnesses. then all my tuning would be the same as a sbc/sbf.

are there better cams available for the carb guys? i'm liking the looks of the Thunder Racing T-Rex cam: 244*/248* @ .050, 110lsa, .604/.610 lift(or something, can't remember lift off top of my head). does anyone know the advertised duration on this camshaft? (i just realized that the difference between advertised duration and duration @ .050 are directly related to ramp speeds...i figured that one out all by myself too, lol!) would these motors benefit from a 106 or 108lsa like the sbc's? i talked to David at Thunder Racing yesterday and he said there might be something better for the carb guys but that he has no experience with it. actually...he sounded like he had a bit of a chip on his shoulder when i said i wanted to go carbed. kind of an elitist attitude about "this generation should only be FI" or whatever. regardless, he was only helpful in telling me that the T-Rex would work well with stock heads, but nothing about what a carbed style intake would do for it.

is there some kind of adapter plate or something that will bolt a regular th350 converter to an ls1? i've got a very nice 9.5" red neck performance 4100stall converter that's behind my 305 right now, and i'd like to keep it. i know there are people running th350's behind ls1's but i don't know what they are doing for a converter. a simple thing that someone would do would be to just make a flexplate for an ls1 with the traditional th350 converter bolt pattern...is there something like this avialable on the market for me?

i just gotta justify the swap parts now. i can build a 575hp sbc for about half the cost of a 600hp ls1 (n/a for both of course), and i don't have to buy the swap headers and engine mounts and so forth. also, the engine i'm getting is BARE. just a straight stock longblock. it has no covers, no coils, no wires, nothing.

how much could you get a stock long block (bare like i'm describing) with an popped piston for? granted, i'm only gonna get this motor if the block is unhurt. by keeping the cost of the long block down, i think i can justify running this motor. mainly for the cool factor, and the weight savings.

i think that is everything for the moment. any input on this stuff at all would be very appreciated. this swap is very expensive, and i want to only spend my money once.

 

I would buy the msd box, it has Four connectors 2 for the coil packs 1 for the cam sensor and 1 on the crank sensor, Hook up a hot and a ground and its done. The harness comes with the MSD box. I think the Distributor setup is more expensive than the msd box and some stock truck coil packs. The MSD packs are overpriced and are no better than stock ones. There are no timing marks on the crank pulley so I'm sure there would be additional cost for a pulley with timing marks and you still dont have a tab on the timing chain cover. But what ever floats your boat. As for cam shafts a T-REX and a vic jr are made for each other. Big power in the upper end of the rpms. As for a converter I don't Know any thing about an adapter for a lsx flex plate to a old style conv. I just called theconvertershop.com up and told them I was bolting a 700r4 to a 6.L truck block, $450 dollars and a week later I had a converter on my door step that bolted right up to my setup. Less than to weeks ago we swapped my buddies 02 z with a 6 speed to a th350 and used one of there converters. Hope this helps

 

i have a friend who runs 6.0's 1/8 mile and he went with a distributer setup for bracket racing. he has ran the edeljunk and msd boxes as i have and the truck is more consistant with the dist. setup.
almost positive it has a timing mark built into the front cover. you can mark "0" on your damper and then use an adjustable timing light for the rest.

you can get a converter made to fit the ls1/th350, or you can use a regular small block converter with the 4l80e adapter from 6.0 HD trucks.
make sure you get the longer bolts to go with it....
good luck.
its a lot of fun.

 

Did your buddy ever figure out why the msd box was not consistant? Is he running a 6al box for a rev limiter? If you have any pics of the set up I would like to see them.

 

thanks for the responses guys! now i just gotta figure out how to get some cash up, lol!

 

Sweet install man. Big Props!!!
Btw, what header wrap did you use? And do you have any advise for somone who is considering wraping his hooker super comps? Also, I've heard some grumblings about header wrap holding moisture and rusting out your primarys. Any truth to that?



Max

 

yes there is truth in that. there is also truth in oil getting soaked up by the wrap and it catching on fire. not a good idea for a street driven vehicle. race only...not a big deal.

 

coatings. NO heat wrap.
ill dig up some pics.

he never got to use the box on his 408. i guess callies does their own thing with the reluctor wheel and its out of tolerances for the msd box.
the edelbjunk worked, but no rev limit.
he is since using a 7al2.
if it was efi it wouldnt have been an issue with a crank relearn.
something to think about when building a motor with an aftermarket crank.

 

Wrap will hold moisture, my car stays in the garage and i dont drive it when its raining. Stage20 thats a good thing to know, it would suck to build a new motor put it in get it plumed and wired to find out your ignition is now useless.

 

I was afraid of that. I had not, however heard of the possible oil fire hazzard. Although I hope my engine dosent have any oil leaks Anyway, probably still not a good idea for my street ride. Guess I'll break down and cough up the green-backs for a call to JET HOT. Thanks for the info.

Props again on the install

Max

 

Thats a nice ride, must be nice to be that fast. Who took those pics of the outside of your car?

 

Thanks for the pics man

 

New best 10.67 @ 124


Man I love this cool weather

 

Which track in Ky are you running at? I'm stationed out in cali but I keep my camaro at home in campbellsville. I'd like to see it run next time I'm back in the bluegrass state.

 

This weekend we went to Clay City, But in the last month we have been to Ohio valley(1/8) and to Beach bend which is by far my favorite.

 

motor or spray?

 

I'll let ya know next time I'm back in the state. The bend is by far my favorite. I raced Jr. Dragsters there when I was a kid. I've raced at every track in Kentucky and most of the ones in Indiana.

 

still on the 100 shot

 

pretty good times! im about ready to pump mine up to a 150 and hope it holds.

been a 6.52(10.20 1/4 ) in the heat, im hoping the 150 will get me in the 6.20's

 

I may put in the 150 pills next year, but for now I think 10.67 is fast enough for a car I take my 17 month old daughter to daycare in

 

Wow, nice times!

 

hell yeah! that's the kinda stuff that makes me feel good about the direction i'm going with my car!

 

do you have a write up? what hassle is involved with 3rd gen fuel setup. and wiring with going carbed?

 

New best time and some added safety

I posted this in the racing section, figured I would update the build thread.
I put a roll bar in decided against the door bars for now I have them just haven't made the swing out mechanism yet.












1.51 60'
6.53 @ 106.4 1/8
10.22 @130.2
150 shot on the limiter the last 50' or so

Vid of the run

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QaLTcvD6Zlc