BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Since someone else had been bumping up this post, I guess I'll add my $0.02 to the original topic.

My swap cost me $11,xxx. I don't know the exact dollar amount because I didn't keep all my receipts for the numerous runs to AutoZone, Napa, Advance, and O'Reilly's. I do know the final number was over $11,000 though, I added up all the bigger parts like the block being rebuilt, all the Spohn swap parts, exhaust, etc. It all adds up real quick. Had I done just a basic, stock swap, I probably could have done it for $5,000-6,000. I know my engine rebuild alone was $4,700 parts and labor, and its a screamer now.

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

My swap is likely to cost me somewhere in the 12-15k range too. I had it all mapped out and it would have fallen right at the 10k level, but now that I'm doing a stroker rebuild...

But, I may try to save a lot of that money on my drivetrain selection, so we'll see.

DrummerDad

Ive been adding up the costs so I can set a plan in place. Its really preference on alot of stuff. Some guys like to fab the mounts, and clearence the K-member. Some arent scared to do their own wiring. Others buy everything, and only want a bolt together swap. And now thats possible. 2 years ago, maybe not.

Minus the engine cost, and assuming you swap a t56 at the same time (its what most do) Im pretty sure it could be done for about $3500. Then add whatever you spend on the pullout.

Thats an LS1 (Ls2, Ls3, Lsx might be more)
Tube k-member (not needed, but I want one)
Hawks swap t-56 mount.
A/C working
Exhaust manifolds, fab a y-pipe
I do the wiring
Also paint the engine compartment


Im still researching the fuel transfer solutions. There are several ways to do this. And the gauges. Im thinking of swapping them out for Auto Meter gauges. Thats another $1k, but it solves alot of issues, and looks better. I also have to add dual fans, and a sending unit, and lower the front end. But thats included in my estimate.

Thats not bad, really. Especially if you count the cost of a new car. And consider even if you bought a new car, you would want to modify it. At least I would. But I also know about murphies law. So, a $3.5k estimate, geta out of hand fast.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

A stroker really shouldn't cost much more. A crank is really all you'll need, provided that everything else on your setup will handle the extra power. I was going to go with a stroker in my block but honestly couldn't dish out the extra $600 for a new crank (I can get a brand new Eagle forged crank at a pretty good price). All the other engine work such as machining and assembling would have been the same regardless of which crank I was using.

ebadai98

I am currently looking into pricing and parts to do my ls1 t56 swap from a no computer carbed 305 with a 700r4. I want everything done the right way no shortcuts or easy way out its most likely going to be a daily performer. any help would be great and im currently looking for a ls1 t56 hawks is selling their combo for 4,500 i cant find any cheaper anywhere else.

MRCAMARO90

Hey DrummerDad you do the whole swap for about 3500 ? where r u located ?

DrummerDad

Sorry I just caught your post. Im in TN.

No, I have not done a swap, yet. The economy has caught up with me, and hours are down, expenses are up, blah,blah,blah...

It will happen though. And Im sure, it can be done for about that much. But, you have to add the cost of the engine/trans.

SiCkRs

iTrader: (6)

Around how much more would i spend on swapping Ls1 and T56 for my 91 RS i could get those two for $1200 by a friend and i was thinking of selling my 350 i was gonna put in and put a LSX but not sure how much more i will spend for the Lsx

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

A stroker costs a lot more. Once you move up to a 4" crank, you need new length rods, and new pistons to accommodate the rods. My rotating assembly cost me $2600, which is all on top of my original budget, minus the small amount of cash I'll recoup by selling my original rotating assembly.

Right now my cost tally (this is projected cost... not all of this stuff has been purchased/priced yet) is at almost $15k and I still have a "0" in the cost column for most of the small stuff. This project has the very real possibility that it could creep up toward $20k if I'm not careful.

kmcn47

dont mean to awaken a dead thread, as i usually end up doing, but what could i do a ls1 swap for if say i already had a 4l60 in my car? and just wanted the bare bones stock swap? oh cars an 84z with a carb'd 305

88FormulaKiller

iTrader: (8)

heres my thread, needs a couple things added to the master parts list (to cost-wise) but its 95% complete, into the car for just about 7K but that was with a 70% resto added into it and i went with an MN12 from an 04 GTO lo mile, big bucks.

http://www.necamaro-firebird.org/for...hp?f=34&t=5342

Damn dude, this is an old thread.

89rs454

I have to ask the question, was it all worth it?

Trevmust

would a Richmond gear 6speed mate to a LS1/LS6?

Savage388

I hate to revive this thread but does anyone have a more recent swap price because there is alot more of these floating around than in 07. now assuming i bought everything used could i do it for 2500, or even 2000 for a 5.3 4l60?

cam-

What you new swappers need to get your head around is this. When these swaps initially started happening most people first off couldnt believe it. If I had a dime for every local guy who talked smack or called "bull **** that car doesnt have an LS1 in it" until I opened the hood and showed them. Then the naysayers said "Well it mus have cost a fortune I can build a SBC or BBC for x and smoke it...." so threads like this got started.

Now? The info is out there if you want to do the swap. The costs are relative to your power goals same as any other build sbc, bbc or LS they all fall under that same law of cost vs power goals. You want someone to spec you out a combo and budget you a price too? Whats next? Guys will be all heart and ask some of us to fly out there and do the swap for them on our own dime?

Get your budget together. Do some research. Know your skill set and if its not strong enough be prepared to hire pro help. How fast do you want to buy? Thats the golden question right there.

To simply say a swap costs x much is futile so take all this with a grain of salt and decide for yourself if its worth the time, and money. If you budget and plan as I mentioned this will be easy to decide before you lay a dime on the table or put a wrench to the car.

Also a word from the experienced? Once you figure out your budget? Double it and you'll be closer to reality once rubber hits the road.

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

The problem with that approach is that most people will just simply walk away from the project. Start with a schedule and a budget, and start executing to it. Soon enough, your budget will fly out the window, and you'll just worry about adjusting your schedule while you save up the additional cash to meet your revised budget, which you'll also blow right past.

cam-

^Very true thats why 9/10 cars are sitting in a garage on jack stands "90% done" that never leave the garage until someone buys it or enough time goes by and off to the bone yard it goes. Seen this more times than not thats for sure. Its better to know what your getting into from jump, then run into a swap blindly.

Depending on what your building 5-10K will cover most basic LS swaps if you do most of the work yourself.

kmcn47

shame too, alot of those cars are really nice

cam-

Yeah maybe but its only a car, life happens so ready or not here it comes! Most of my local friends who have sold off their rods were for these reasons;

1. Getting married
2. Having kids
3. Lost source of funds
4. Got lazy
5. Lost interest
6. Couldnt deal with the inevitable, unforeseen challenges and set backs and the project became more stress than fun.
7. Had no skills and simply couldnt pull it off
8. Got carried away halfway through swap and deviated from original plan and budget, made new plan, bought new parts, then got 90% done, someone else made more power so made new plan, bought new parts, then got 90% done and whaaaa? < These guys? Are complete idiots imo. GET IT DONE!!!! You can always make it better afterwards.... ufff
9. Did I mention lazy?
10. Parents evicted the car from their garage after years of nagging, moved car to storage unit, ran into "wow this monthly bills **** costs a lot of cheddar Im going to sell it for 30 grand make money yeah thats the ticket...." After storage unit forecloses, vehicle goes to auction no one knows about and fat bald man buys it and turns it into mini golf attraction.

Ive witnessed all of the above first hand, except for the mini putt but im sure thats happened to someone

pearl_iroc

I think that statement pretty much sums it up. I know when I first had the idea of doing the swap I was thinking I could do it for around 5k, ended up costing closer to 8-10k.

My main concern was ripping a perfectly good engine out, only to get in over my head and not finish (which happens in MANY of these swaps). I stuck to my overall plan, pulled the motor in April 2012, and was driving the car by June 2012.

Through out the build I had friends telling me add this cam, add these heads, use this clutch etc etc. Which would have pushed the finish date further and further, not to mention more $$

My plan was just get the new motor in, enjoy (as its already way more fun than the tired 350 that was in it) it and down the road upgrade.

UnstableAviator

cam-,

I think we'll see less and less of that with the 3rd Gen platform as they move from the trailer parks to the more experienced builder wanting a "real" (i.e. no spraypainted exterior) project. I know I could have easily abandoned my Camaro along the way (I've had it 15 years) but instead I've stuck with it and have more fun now than ever. I've even made a few believers out of the potential these cars have after suspension upgrades and an LS1 swap.

You don't see many Chevelles being cast off and forgotten, since they mostly are in the hands of those with either money or skills. I don't think the 3rd Gen will reach that status, but in 10 years I'm pretty sure this site will be populated by more serious enthusiast and less "build by 305" threads.

Savage388

Well the car will have to be carbed but my goals are pretty modest, say a little over 400 fwhp and maybe mid 12's at the track. I have spent plenty of time figuring and have quite a while longer to go but I was just looking for a rough guestimate for a swap because i've only put a 3000 dollar part list together for the basics like k member, engine /trans, engine mounts, carb conversion, oil pan, most of them used prices. As far as getting it done, everything will be purchased before the swap and I honestly cant see a carb ls swap taking more than a month. I cant be without my bird for any longer. I am still a ways off just was curious to see what people are doing them for today is all.

cam-

Yes sir. The performance potential of the third gen platform is staggering regardless of your intended usage. Drag, Road race, top speed, all very favorable with the right mods respectively. Not to mention the BEST all round pro touring platform to start with at the moment imo when looking at bang for buck if you start with a full jam car especially a rag top. Values been stable for a while now too so only going up from here.

88FormulaKiller

iTrader: (8)

Stop putting carbs on LS motors please. Thanks

Savage388

Going efi isnt too practical, the previous owner cut pretty much the whole harness out to do the his 383 swap so I would either have to buy a stand alone harness or buy a stock harness to convert as well as a ls harness. much more expensive than a holley 750, and takes much much longer.

lt1fire

Been thinking of getting back into F-bodies for a while now and i've owned every generation except for a 3rd gen.

I just want to make sure I've got this down solid in my head.

I can get an LS1 Engine, Transmission (t56) for around 3k-3500 for a decent mileage combo.

Tubular K-member $500
Trans cross member $110

$300 on wiring harnesses and hopefully I can do that myself thanks to the great directions on this forum.

Other than that $$$ for the exhaust man.... hopefully no more than $400


Is there anything else this swap needs to work besides that..... I know there is A/C and other things but do drive the car i'm thinking that is all that needs to be done??? Other things I can do at a later date


Most likely i'd do the 6 speed swap first and then the ls1 at a later date.

Lonnie P

Keep in mind the T-56 is different between the SBC style (LT1) & the LS style... you will need to do them at the same time unless you want to buy things twice.

UnstableAviator

Forget the 6-speed first idea. They're not compatible unless you plan on swapping input shafts, bellhousings, and clutch actuators. Go LS1/T56 and don't look back.

Don't forget the ~$1000 extra that even the most well thought-out build always costs. Oils, fittings, fuel pumps, filters, air intake tubing, wiring supplies, special tools, VATS delete, tune, PCV catch can, etc, etc.

FWIW, it's absolutely worth the cost to get it all done with LSx power. I've had my swap running for about 11 months now and I've driven the wheels off it. Its too much fun to NOT drive given the chance. I was not enthused any longer with hot-rodding and using the dinosaur small block Chevy, but the LSx is just what I needed to really get me pumped up. Modern, leak-free, ridiculous power (even in stock form) and computer tuned.

87camaroirockid

how bad would a ls1 and t56 set me back if buying out of a wrecked camaro 4th gen

Bullit

I wonder how much of the cost to swap in a LSx is recoverable If i decide to sell the car?

Bradlyj8Z28

iTrader: (2)

Probably none. Only us hard core 3rd genners give a crap for our cars.

Bullit

I was thinking the same thing.

cam-

Quality of build is what sells cars, not the car thats built. Barret Jackson shows us all that. Cheap built = cheap sell price unless you are capable of "selling matches to a man on fire" and most guys are very concerned with budget going into a build, so those budget built cars can expect budget sale price. There are exceptions and some very well built machines out there which would sell for decent dollars, but not likely as decent as the dollars and time invested.

Lots of factors in value but dollars in on parts, minus labor, is typically what one can expect. Soon as the price drops below parts value someone will buy it and part it out. Thats the norm

That said, really if re-sale is something your considering going into a swap such as this? Perhaps you should reconsider the swap altogether and just stay stock, or buy a new Camaro and be done.

I never see anyone complaining after a third gen LSx swap is complete and driving though. The third gen chassis is a mint platform and marries up with LS power very nicely.

92BLKL98

I have had my 92 Z since new, (I ordered it). Its been through two wives a g/f or two, has 275,000 miles on the clock and now it's on jacks with a fractured transmission output shaft. I replaced the rearend with an 02 10 bolt and now am at the point of thinking LS1. I do not want to rebuild the trans only to have the engine **** the bed in two weeks, so LS1 is going in. I'm planning about 10K and next spring to finish.

cam-

^ Old faithful.

Have to keep that car for SURE! 10K budget and a low mile jy dropout makes for a nice, scratch that, VERY nice parts list.

T56 at this juncture I suggest a new one. Old LS1 t56's are all clapped now, or rebuilt, so just get a brand new one or fresh rebuilt. This aspect is becoming the most costly part of most swap nowadays. Six speeds are in high demand.

$13K buys a new hi-perf LS3/t56 and all components. five7 has the link

Bullit

I agree. The satisfaction received from a proper build cannot be measured in dollars and cents and no one is going to pay for the emotional attachment we have to our cars.

Nick2013

I just got a 92 RS and I want to do an LS3/T56 Magnum Trans with a twin turbo setup. Does anyone know a good place to find a complete drop/lift out for cheap. The trans and twin faced clutch and bell housing was estimated at 4,700 from summit racing. Does that sound about right?

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I think the T56 Magnum is a creation of the aftermarket and never came in a production vehicle so no drop-outs available in junk yards. The TR6060 is the OEM version and is similar but not as good.

The old T56 is actually quite good when built properly. Yes, the TR6060 has a huge torque rating but it isn't as robust to missed shifts. Literally, one missed shift can ruin a TR6060 when it eats up the engagement teeth. The T56 is more robust in that way and may prove a better overall transmission for a car on street tires. Not to mention it is cheaper and parts are everywhere.

88FormulaKiller

iTrader: (8)

LS3, Twin Turbos and T56 (Magnum) don't belong in the same sentence as the word CHEAP. Whats cheap? $20K? $30K?

Better off with a 6.0L Iron block with a forged (min overbore) bottom end, a stage 2 MN12 w/RST twin, and turbos of your choice (don't forget a scattershield). That could be doable for under $20K running.

But hey, if $25000-$35000 is cheap then by all means buy a low mile 2015 Camaro LS3/speed drop out, forge the whole thing, send the 6 speed to Tick and buy a custom turbonetics TT kit for an LS3!

I have a 50K Mile LS3/L99 for sale if you're interested. PM me.

EvanFZ28

Great build and information. Looking to start my build this spring to an LS2/T56 combo. This thread is hugely helpful! Great work and thank you for documenting for us jumping into the inevitable technological upgrade.