Well, after finally finding a decent ls1/4l60e combo with decent miles, we have decided to start our swap/resto project. If this is in the wrong catagory, please move accordingly. 87 z28 ttop.

Picked up a good running dropout ls1/4l60e from a '01 z28 that had been wrecked with 50k on the clock. Then proceeded to purchase some spohn hardware to help make the conversion easier.





Our tubular kmember from hawks is still on order and should ship within the week so i figured this would be a good time to start this little documentary.

Our first goal was to drop the rear and get it to a friends shop who gutted the 10 bolt and put new 3.42's with a eaton posi and 28 spline axles. I will post pics later when i receive the rear back. Next was to strip the interior and see what kind of work lay ahead of us. It turned out not to be too bad besides a couple of pin size holes that could be cleaned and welded shut. Everything else was in real good shape besides a little surface rust in some spots.



I plan on doing some junkyard shopping for some 4thgen parts for our brake system. Our plan is to keep the 3rd gen style, but get everything modernized including drivetrain, interior, new paint, etc.

Can anyone recommend a brand of paint stripper for the front and back fascias? I've only seen one brand in town, but did not know if all were basically the same. Also, anyone have any "clean/hidden wire" ls1 install pics? I want to make this look as good as possible. I have learned alot from the fellow thirdgenners on this board, and that is what inspired me to build this car up.

 

Is Hawks' k-member identical to Spohn's, and are you using Spohn motor mounts? If so, I would be interested to know if your oil pan is level after you install the engine.

I don't know if I would use paint stripper on the rubber bumpers. Do a search and you should find some answers.

How much time and work are you willing to do? I spent about 3-4 weeks on mine, merging the 3rd & 4th gen harnesses and tucking them away as much as I could (inside fenders, etc.). I'm not finished, but each solder joint used 3M heat shrink tubing (mainly 1/4" & 3/16", #4NU26, 4NU27, from Radford Brothers), and the wiring that needed lengthening used Napa (12-20awg) and Anixter XLPE TXL (22awg, GM OEM) wire. Get yourself a the full service manuals from Helm for your '87 and the LS1. The wiring diagrams are invaluable.

 

Looks like a clean mill there bro. Enjoy the build

 

The hawks kmember is the spohn one, sorry for not clarifying. I will give an update when we ready the engine into the new kmember to see if it fits like a glove or not. After i had ordered the kmember i had found a thread about the motor not sitting level, but hope i don't experience the same hardship. As far as time goes, it will basically be as long as it takes, i want this restoration looking top notch. Know of any reputable dealers for helms manuals? Thanks for the help and support guys... I will update later this week with some progress.

 

Well, I finally received the kmember from hawks. I'll have to order one earlier next time for my bird. Anyways, finally got the rear area taken care of ( at least underneath). We still will not be able to mount the engine due to front end body work and mods. Hopefully we can get it set in there for the first trial in a week or so. kinda off topic, but when we were mounting the ebrake shoe ( 98+ setup ) the shoe wiggles some in its spot. Do i need to bend the crap out of the bracket or is it suppose to be like that? also is there a part number for the "wheel cylinder" area? The little hook that the ebrake cable hooks to has some rubber gasket around it, but its torn to shreds. It looks like a couple of bolts hold the assembly in, but did not notice any numbers.

 

Yes, I'd be interested to know if yours sits level or not. I was running Spohn LS1 motor mounts, k-member, and Prothane clamshell mounts. Had to have a billet shim made. Sits level now.

Helm, Inc., eBay, Faxon. The Helm manuals are reprints of original GM manuals.

A picture of what you are talking about would be nice, as my parts manual doesn't show a rubber gasket.

 

Looks like you have a good start to the clean engine bay with that clean motor... That goes a LONG way in making things look nice and neat in the bay.

As for wiring. Just some thoughts on that... After I disected all of my thirdgen wiring in the engine bay, I was only left with a few key areas of wire. I was able to ditch 95% of the wires coming from the bulkhead connector. Only the big wires for the starting circuit and a couple other little things remained. The only things left now are the lighting circuits, wiper circuits, horn wires, and the HVAC wiring (I kept A/C and heat)...and thats really about it that is still thirdgen. You'll have even less than me because you dont have the pop-up headlight module to deal with.

Everything else was 4th gen LS1 harness. The problem with the LS1...is that it is a sensor ridden engine, with some or most of the sensors/senders requiring 3+ wires. So even after you strip the harness of things you dont need like rear 02s, A.I.R., EGR, etc, you are still left with quite a few wires.

I didnt splice into my 3rd gen harness...I only interfaced with it in a couple spots. One spot was for triggering the starter. Thirdgen harness had the wire going right down to the starter, I just used it to power the starter relay. Another spot was I used my stock a/c compressor clutch wire, as the a/c request wire for the LS1 system. I guess my point is, the LS1 harness is almost 100% stand alone. So... if you are building your own relay system, you are only limited by your creativity as to how well you can hide everything.

I happened to use the 4th gen relay centers as well. Making it even more plug and play. I do have a lot of wires visible, but its organized and everything is really easy to get to/work on. There is a ton of room inside the fender wells to hide things also. I have some of my harness running in there.

Just dont be afraid to modify that harness... I had to add in 18" to the 3 main plugs to make mine fit the way I wanted. The more time you take making sure the lengths are the way you want, the tighter and better it will look.

OK..that was a ton of babbling by me. haha. Sorry about that. Keep us posted on your progress and any questions you have!

Justin

 

here is the piece. the "hook" is out of it.

 

It's a dust shoe, and is only available in the parking brake rebuild kit (GM #12454994). I'd swing by Napa and see if they have a similar kit that might have the part.

 

Thanks a bunch kev, didn't expect an answer that quick .

 

My rubber boots are torn too. No big deal its been working fine for years

 

Quick update... Getting body ready for paint. Did a test drop with the engine and everything looks real good. I can't wait to do my bird