f_body_4_life

LT1 Swap help!


Any information On The C100 and C207 bulkheads And How to Splice wires the right way would be great also some routing information for the Cooling Lines, also I need to figure out what from the Old Tbi harness and setup has to be tossed and What needs to stay

lol well heres what Im working with if anyone can make sense of it all or any of it for That matter would be Great, I Know its A mess But for me being 17 and this being my first swap and Having no experience swapping out motors Im pretty happy the motors even in the car But Now It needs to Run...

f_body_4_life

any insight,tips,suggestions on how to clean up all that wire crap and some good info on actully splicing the wires would be great ive read allot about what wires go were and what they do, its just a matter of how do you splice them in to the c100 and c207. once I get all this figured out the rest should go pretty good.

SnkSknrZ28

iTrader: (2)

Wiring can be as easy as you make it. Patience is the key! To properly splice a wire for your harness you must go pin by pin, wire by wire. It takes along time but do ONE AT A TIME.

As for soldering, you can do it like this which is the most common:


Or another way i like to do it is Interlocking them, not just overlaying like u see above.

[i]1. First figure out which two wires you want to splice, cut the ONE wire from the bulkhead or connector that you are going to use as well as have the other wire that you intend to splice it too ready.

2. Grab some shrink sleeve but off about an inch in length and slip it over one of the wires.

3. Next get some wire strippers, strip off approximately a 1/2inch of the insulation from the tips of the 2 wires.

4. Then take bare wire at the ends that you stripped, IF its a bigger gage wire (14ga, 12ga, 10ga) fan out the wires evenly so they are flat, dont be afraid to fan them out pretty far. Do this to both wires and then interlock them and twist them together. However if your working with a really small ga. (16ga, 18ga, etc) wire you can just twist them without fanning them out. Either way the end product will look the same as pic #3 below.




5. Now for soldering them, I take some flux on a pick or end of a screwdriver and spread alittle bit on top, then touch the bottom of the wires with a soldering iron or gun let it soak down thru the wires, next holding the iron or gun to the bottom of the wires touch the top of the wires with some solder and let it pull thru the wires just as the flux did. Turns out beautiful evertime with alittle practice.




6. And your justa bout all set, pull the shrink sleeve up to cover teh wires, take a lighter and give it alittle heat to make it conform to the joint and your good to go.

Happy Wiring,
Mike

Firebat

iTrader: (7)

Just curious, where in Iowa are you located? East, west?

I'm looking for files on my computer that helped me. I'll try to attach them on here.

Wiring can be time consuming. I've re-wired my car 3 times now at least but I don't have the computer in the engine bay any more nor do I have any bulkhead wiring. Took me a while and I'm an electronic technician. Its turned out really nice though.

Part of your engine bay TBI harness can be completely removed. I cut off all of the engine bay wires that go to the connector that is behind the passenger side fender, near the door.

I think all you need from c207 is the fuel pump wiring. You can follow that wire back from the fuel pump.

f_body_4_life

thanks some good info so far.

Firebat I live in SE Iowa

f_body_4_life

Ok Few more thing I have to figure out, The battery cable hook ups on the car Were do they all go?

Also the Under hood fuse block The Middle section in between the fuses Are all relays? Do I need any of that section in my wiring? Shed some light on this one

f_body_4_life

....

Firebat

iTrader: (7)

For the underhood fuseblock-

The ones circled in red i'm pretty sure just go to ignition, so you could just wire those up to an ignition fuse at the thirdgen fuseblock and eliminate those. Ignition power only has power when the key is on. The green is the fan system. You may have to rewire that if you only have one fan. Yellow is the air pump - if you are keeping emissions/egr then you need to keep these, otherwise don't wire them up. I'm thinking the one in purple needs battery power all of the time, i could be wrong. The rest of the relays and fuses you won't need unless you want to figure out how to make the cruise conrol work and you will use mostly 3rdgen wiring for the a/c.

Start looking into shbox.com and the thirdgen.org tech articles wiring diagrams if you haven't already.

i'll get on later tonite and talk about the other stuff unless someone else chimes in...

Klortho

It's a shame that someone cut the C100 plug off of the fusebox, would make it sooooo much easier to install. Anyway, the big red wire with the wireloom is the one that goes to the alternator, there should be a smaller wire that goes to the distro block.

A rule of thumb about GM wiring colors....anything pink is switched 12v, anything red or orange is generally constant 12v.

BadAz_Iroc

The best thing you could ahev doen was call up summit or jegs and got the painless wiring, you would have been out of 500 bucks but it would have nice and neat.

Have fun

Klortho

This is not really the best thing....the wiring kits from painless are not painless, from what i've heard, they're still a pain to hook up.

Keep at it, I was worried to death when I wired mine up but looked at all the diagrams, figured out where everything went and just dove in.

You might be best off though finding an underhood box that someone hasn't cut the C100 plug off, make it 10x more simpler.

Z28ricer

iTrader: (2)

Please dont recommend that to anyone again, the "painless" harness is just the same as a factory harness with the C100, 220 and 230 connections cut off, it wont get anyone any closer to completing their swap.

f_body_4_life

well since my fuse block wires are all hacked up would this be a good option? Take a look let me know if this would be a good way to go, It looks to me that it would make the wiring a whole lot easier. I could be wrong though

http://stores.homestead.com/ez2wire/...ion/Detail.bok

Klortho

you don't have to use the underhood fuseblock to wire the motor in, but with one intact it makes it a whole lot easier to do since most of the PCM wiring, inlcuding the fan relays all run through the C100 connector on the LT1 harness. I would take a little time, call Hawks and/or Tennesse Auto Parts and see if they have the underhood fuseblock with intact wiring connector to the C100, you could possibly get it cheaper than what you posted, and will end up with alot less wires to splice in.

92rs85berlintta

iTrader: (1)

contact me on aim if you have it, i can help you out.
Why are you trying to use an under hood fuse block? all the fuses you need are in the thirdgen already. All your fuel injector fused power wires are in the c207 and so is your constant pcm power wires,check engine light wires, diagnostic wires and vss wire. your fuel pump relay wire is number 7 (green/white stripe) on the red lt1 harness and it goes to the relay for the thirdgen fuel pump. I have a harness in my lap and i have been through the whole thing a few times. When i do a lt1 harness i cut a c207 off the stock ecm and mod it right into the lt1 harness so its a plug in and go swap.I would Ditch the bulky power relay harness all the ones you need are already there.

f_body_4_life

I have the power system from the battery hooked up and grounded and have the starter cranking... sounds easy but Im a noob to this wiring stuff so yeah now the car has power.

Im wondering if its ok to twist or crimp wires together for now and then go back and solder them once Im 100% sure that every thing is in its place and the cars running.

Also Im pretty sure Im going to go 92rs85berlintta's rout on the wiring and ditch the underhood fuseblock just seems like it would be alot easier and cleaner looking when its all said and done since there wont be wires running from the the fuse block all over.

I take it you access the C207 by removing the inner fender lining, Then you trace the wires from the c207 to the engine bay and then cut them there so you can go ahead and hook up the wires you need from the lt1 harness is this correct?

My pcm has A jet chip so do I still need to send it off the get the vats and the emissions tuned out? or atleast the vats? kinda of a necessary thing to get this tuned out to get the engine running

all probley post up some more question later on today

Also look at this guys write up on the minimums to get The 93 lt1 running Is that about all you need to get it started? http://www.lt1swap.com/93lt1a4.htm


Man Im excited I might be able to hear this thing run Real soon if Im lucky!

92rs85berlintta

iTrader: (1)

the c207 is inside the car above the passengers feet, just take off the kick panel and find your stock ecm. the c207 is the harness coming from the dash to the ecm. the rest go out the side up into the fender, then to the engine.

are you using your ac?

f_body_4_life

no Im not using the Ac, I think Im starting to make alittle headway with this wiring stuff I have a 4 day weekend ahead of me so Im hoping to get allot done

but I still have a few questions

Whats the best way to rout wires from the lt1 harness to the c207?

What do I do With the million wires running from the passenger side to the c100?
pic shows what Im talking about

after I have this info all probley be ready to start making connections from the lt1 harness the the rest of the vehical.

335_GTA

Just wondering if you still had that stock lt1 cam??

What do you want for with shipping and all?


My zip code is 45895

thanks

92rs85berlintta

iTrader: (1)

Not everyone likes this way...but

The first time I did mine, what I did was took out the whole thirdgen harness from the ecm, c207 all the way back to the bulkhead c100. I removed it right from the car. I did this before i even touched the lt1 harness. I removed everywire i wasnt going to use. Removed all the ecm wires, that pretty much eliminated the wires going down to the passengerside fender. You can take those out by unplugging them from the ecm, unbolting them from the inerfender area and feeding them back out. Once they were out the thinning began. I kept all the wires i needed like power, fuel pump, alt and starter and dash wires all coming from the c100.

Then I cut the c207 off the old harness and hooked it to the lt1 harness power wires with enough length to go back down to the connector. This way all the lt1 fuel injectors,ecm constant power, check engine, vss, aldl, grounds and ecm fuses are the same as they were before.

Next i loomed the power,alt, fuel pump and dash wires from the c100 back into the harness. Soldering, heat shrinking and connecting them to the correct wire on the lt1 harness one at a time.

When i was done I had a plug and play harness that dropped directly into the car with just a few plugs and fired up on the first try. Not to mention i had no huge mess of unused wires getting in my way. That looks like your biggest problem is the unused wires. Most people just splice a few wires and call it good, leaving tons of unused wires to later cause a headache. This way may have took me longer, but it looks factory and theres no mess.

92rs85berlintta

iTrader: (1)

O and a great tip of advice is to do one thing at a time when you start splicing. For example, dont just hack the lt1 connector off and start twisting wires together. If your hooking up lets say your injectors do it one wire at a time and verify twice its the correct one, then move on to the next. Making harnesses can be fun too, its all about how you choose to do it.

f_body_4_life

Urgent I need to Know Were
C220
f - gry - fuel pump motor feed
and
j - dk grn/wht - fuel pump relay control

splice into From the c220 on the lt1 harness into my 88

I have looked at both c100 and c207 diagrams and am still confused because on the c207 it just say fuel controll in like 3 different places and theres one place on the c100 E6 red I think that says fuel control, I basically just need a little help getting thoughs wires figured out And I think all be able to start it maybe? Idk... I have spark the things cranking blah blah just needs a little fuel



Btw I have the VATS tuned out.

Firebat

iTrader: (7)

What year of LT1 and what did it come out of(firebird, camaro, caprice,corvette)? All of my stuff is for a 95 camaro, it may differ. Shbox.com has wiring connector diagrams for all 93-97 camaro/firebirds. I think you need the fuel pump wiring figured out at this point, try to find the fuel pump relay, it should have a dk/green wire going to it.

f_body_4_life

The lt1 is out of a 1993 z28, I diagnosed the problem, When i was "thinning" the wires coming from the passenger side I accidentally cut all the wires going to my fuel pump relay, Im making all my engine harness conections under the dash so i guess all have to re wire my Fuel pump relay under there... This is going to be a PITA

I was actually Pretty tired When i began my Thinning and some how assumed i didint Need any wires coming from the passenger side part that goes into the dash from the fender because all I saw was the Old ecm wires and the c207 and so i cut off all the wires going under the hood from this part and the removed my c207 from the side with the ecm plugs

92rs85berlintta

iTrader: (1)

The only wire (mines Grey) you need from the c100 is the wire that send power from the relay to the fuel pump. Other than that the relay signal is sent from the lt1 pcm, the relay power can come from a switched c100 power wire or from the stock orange wire thats hooked to the starter and the ground is just a ground.

Heres some pics of mine, everyones is different, but just to give you an idea of what i did.



Heres the fuel pump relay on mine. The Grey wire goes to the c100 to the FP.


Heres how I set up my pcm connectors, mine sits under the dash on the passenger side. The connectors feed through a hole that used to go to my ac stuff thats gone now. They just plug right into the c207 and the pcm.

f_body_4_life

thanks to everybody on these message boards my Lt1 Is running!!! Its far from finished But It runs! I couldint of done it without all the great help and info you guys provided

Just wanted to say

88LT1Drop

did u get rid of the big bulk head connector entirely? is it possible for me to get rid of it entirely from the engine bay and run all my wires from inside the firewall behind the big bulkhead connector? or would i be missing somthing besides the fuel pump and fan relays? i havent started on my wiring yet but im trying plan it all out and figure out where to start. also keep it clean as possible

Firebat

iTrader: (7)

I kept the bulkhead just as a way to keep track of wires, its dangling under the dash somewhere. I will probably eliminate it completely the next time I re-wire the car again. Yeah, it could be eliminated. I moved all of my wires out of the engine bay and welded a sheet of metal over the hole left from the bulkhead. I run the LT1 pcm wires and battery wires through the hole where the thirdgen heater/ac wires come through, then made a hole on the side of the car directly behind the drivers side fender, near the fusebox, and ran the rest of the wires there(headlights, fans, turn signals). I have my battery mounted in the rear and wired up relays that I mounted behind the drivers side fender near the side turn signal.

There are still headlight and turn signal wires going through the bulkhead I believe. If you do eliminate the bulkhead, I recommend getting a label maker to print labels out that could be stuck on the wires. I also recommend printing out all of your LT1 and thirdgen wiring schematics and keep notes, just in case you have to diagnose a wiring problem later.

88LT1Drop

k thanks alot for the info. do you have any pictures of your install??

FlyDoc

how did you hook up the dash harness that runs from the the passenger kick panel old pcm, to the 4th gen LT1 harness???