right now the motor/trans is still in the donor car but i need to figure out whats wrong before i got tearing farther into car.

For some reason the car is showing lean condition sometimes on passenger side of motor, while drivers side is running tad rich.

another issue, if accelerating at 90& throttle, the car will accelerate up to redline no problem....just like stock. Now, when when 100% throttle is applied the car coughs and stutters like its missing horribly

for a while the passenger manifold glows red hot after driving hard.....thing is it only glows from number 6 cylinder back

also, im using datamaster for watch the info on car and nothings jumping out as serious wrong......

weird thing is it will lose PCM signal time to time and also the computer isnt seeing a water temp(reads -40 degress all the time) the e-fans wont come one by themselfs anymore so i had to manually wire them to come on.

i have checked all the grounds and they are good conditon. So do i have a bad computer or bad fuel pump/injectors?

CLIFF NOTES:
90%throotle acceration = runsa bad to the bone
100% thrrotle acceration = runs liike a blown up honda civic

 

Reading the wrong temp could mess stuff up. Find out if the wires going to the temp sensor are good then test the temp sensor too with a multimeter. Shbox.com should have instructions somewhere to test the temp sensor.

Another thing I would check if the plugs and plug wires. If they are hooked up in the right order and if they are good.

 

its got brand new:
acdelco parts like
opti-spark
plugs
wires
cap/rotor
water pump


and i have checked plugs/wires for correct install like 8909808 times lol

 

Did you have this problem before you got these new parts? Got the right gap on all the plugs?

 

Could also be a bad injector or dirty injectors also.

 

how do you check injectors?

i did use a long screw driver and listened to the injectors and they click all the same speed at idle so atleast they are working somewhat.

Also, it has 97 lt1 injectors on it(maybe they are different?)

im hoping its fuel system, because ive spent well over 600 dollars in the spark ingition area( i havent changed the coil yet though)

 

97 should be the same for injectors.

What you do is take the fuel rail off along with the injectors attached. I believe 8mm or 5/16" socket will take the screws off. You leave the fuel rail connected to the fuel lines, everything else can be disconnected like the electrical connectors to the injectors. Then you turn the key to on(but don't turn the engine), the fuel pump should prime and fuel should not exit the injectors. If fuel comes out an injector on this test then that injector is leaky.

I don't know how to check for dirty injectors. I suppose just look at them???

 

You can generally take them to shop to have them flow tested to see what they flow at and they can tell if they're bad, not flowing like the should etc etc.