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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
That looks familiar. Waaay back, my 400 SBC dropped a valve and that was how the affected cylinder looked. You have more piston remaining than I did. And the connecting rod is straighter too.
Tough luck Alan. But I'm sure you'll get back on that horse soon enough.
Quick question. You say you were running up through the bottom gears. What boost and RPM were you at before things let go? Just curious more than anything.
yeah, it definitely was some bad luck, but it will get back better than ever.
when it happened, I was having a little fun acceleration fun... I had just gotten close to shifting from 2nd to 3rd at WOT... so I was above 6000 rpm thinking about the upcoming shift to third... I usually shift around 6700 - 6800... then it went "boom" I immediately pushed in the clutch, engine was stalled, and that was that! boost is only about 6.5 - 7 psi
so a couple things I had thought about
- I had switched over to non ethanol gas over the last two years, 90 octane vs the supreme 93 I had always run, maybe knock detection I had tuned wasn't good enough for the lower octane
- a couple weeks earlier I had almost missed the shift to 4th, but had caught it before letting the clutch all the way out... I had driven it for several hundred miles since that without any noise or other problems
Almost 7 grand! It happens quickly. I can testify to that.
And it can also be a slow bleed. Witness my engines current condition. Started off as a little misfire high up in the rev range and eventually worked it's way lower and lower. At this point I have no idea what the issue is but the pending post mortem should reveal the cause.
Good luck going forward. The LS3 has become a very invitable package seeing as that I can pick one up from GM for well under 8000 CDN (less than 6000 USD). Of course plus controller, etc, etc....
Almost 7 grand! It happens quickly. I can testify to that.
And it can also be a slow bleed. Witness my engines current condition. Started off as a little misfire high up in the rev range and eventually worked it's way lower and lower. At this point I have no idea what the issue is but the pending post mortem should reveal the cause.
Good luck going forward. The LS3 has become a very invitable package seeing as that I can pick one up from GM for well under 8000 CDN (less than 6000 USD). Of course plus controller, etc, etc....
yes tough to beat the LS3 (my issues not withstanding!) … great power, great rpm range, great sealing technology, etc... all the way around the LS3 is really a great swap motor
so i am starting to think about this Iroc's resurrection effort this winter. Likely LS3 based, but maybe 416 ish...
even though i have been working on other projects, i think i have the fuel pump assembly sorted out with the method i just used for my RAMJET 350. Might go bigger than 255 l/hr, but still use this same philosophy as i documented in my RAMJET link below
So over the last couple of weeks I started to get back into the groove and get serious about getting this black IROC back in shape and on the road hopefully next summer
I am likely going to take a couple winters to get where I ultimately want to go so for this winter I am doing items that are foundational but not where I ultimately will end up
As this was my first LS swap which started over a decade ago, I have learned a lot of things along the way, many from the great members of thirdgen.org, so of course I am going to greatly improve some things compared to what I did back in 2009... one of the biggest examples is back in '09 I utilized the GMPP E67 based ECM for my LS3/480 engine control. At the time I needed something I knew would work as I didn't have enough experience. Now after several swaps and seeing the pros and cons of many different items including aftermarket ECMs, I am settled on basing my swaps around the 411 LS1 ECM. I am doing this as I want an ECM that is proven, reliable, has great support, and I don't need to be beholden to anyone to program any part of it. Also since I do a lot of different projects I can utilize this for SBC and LS based swaps.
Ultimately in this IROC I am going to put in a LS ~416 stroker and likely will go with a short block from Katech that I will then build up. To get going and back on the road this summer and have something that runs easily with the LS1 ECM I am going to standardize on, I ended up buying a GMPP crate engine that is already set up for 24X / 1X crank/cam sensing. I ended up getting the LS364 / 450 Long block, GM 19370163. For $4300 you get a brand new long block with LS3 type heads setup for 24X/1X that makes ~450 HP / ~440 ft-lbs... good enough to start and something I can utilize in another swap when I am done with it in this IROC
So that is a little bit about where I am going, now on to the project
So as I already have the engine and transmission out as noted from last winter, I decided to start on the fuel tank
In the first swap I had already utilized the 4th gen plastic tank with a racetronix 255 l/hr pump that had served me well. However with it being now 10+ years old I decided I would refresh it and also base it on the pump choice I am now more universally using in my swaps.
First thing was to get the tank out. I decided to pump out the existing gas as I have gotten older I tend now to like things to be more manageable in terms of lifting compared to my earlier days when I would have just dropped it out. As it ended up having 12-13 gallons of gas in it, I am glad I pumped out about 12 gallons or so and reduced the weight by about 75 lbs before I dropped it out
To pump it out I do a couple of things
- Make sure to have good ventilation to avoid any vapor build up underneath the vehicle... Be safe!
- Set up a support for the jug I am pumping into and make sure I have a connection hose attached to the car feed line that reaches its opening
- Utilize the existing pump bulkhead connector that is on the tank with extension wires compatible with weather pack connectors (need to make wires with weather pack female ends), connector pin "A" is ground, connector pin "C" is positive 12V for pump feed
- Utilize battery or other such power device to power pump and remove gas from tank
Once you have emptied the tank, removal of the tank itself is straight forward. Note that since I already have the plastic tank installed once of the advantages is to be able to tank the filler neck off prior to removal. Doing so allows the tank to be removed without need for rotation, etc
- Remove sender arm and set aside for reuse
- Detach sender assembly from lower bucket
- Remove fuel feed hose from top of fuel assembly by slitting open with knife
- Press on two side retention tabs and separate top and bottom of pump assembly
- Remove top pump assembly electrical connector by removing red secondary locking tab first then pinching black tab with needle nose while pressing down
- Remove electrical connector on pump
- Remove pump and wire harness with sender assembly from top assembly, can both be discarded
- If running external FPR regulator, remove FPR assembly by pulling out retaining lock and gently rocking back and forth and gently twisting past pump assembly support rail, can be discarded
- Remove filter / sock from bottom assembly by pulling off, can be discarded
- Drill open the center hole where the filter sock was pulled from using 1 3/8 hole saw
- Utilize the radius of the bottom pump molding as a guide, go slow to get it started
- Clean out all shavings with compressed air
Begin reassembly of the fuel pump assembly with installation of the new ICT Billet 551285-PLUG FPR bypass plug in place of the regulator (assuming that you are utilizing an external FPR). Also just to be clear to address Scooter's question below this is a bypass plug, ie you can see it is not solid. What it does is just make sure the fuel returns directly to the bucket versus if i left it out fuel sprays everywhere (which might be ok to, but i wanted the fuel return dumping right into the bucket right on top of the Hydramat)... so with this bypass plug installed vs the original FPR fuel flows right from the return entrance right into the bucket without any restriction
- Lubricate FPR bypass plug o ring
- As it is shorter than the FPR it is easy to get into place, make sure to fully seat
- Re-install original FPR locking clip
Not sure why you're putting that plug in place of the regulator. Are you putting in another bulkhead for the return, or will the return be in the tank before it goes through the top of the sender?
- Begin with Herko FC31 sender / harness assembly. This has the correct 0-90 ohm sender and also the correct harness plug that will install in the top of the fuel pump assembly
- To have correct fuel pump connector with heavier gauge wires for fuel pump we will utilize Walbro VPN-94-615
- Trim Walbro VPN-94-615 to 7 3/4" from end of pump terminal
- Crimp Metri Pack 280 Unsealed female connectors 12129424. Crimp with Delphi 12085271 crimper core with "A" crimp, insulation with "B" crimp
- Remove Blue connector lock from Herko FC31
- With release tool remove gray wire and install red wire from new harness
- With release tool remove black wire and install black wire from new harness
Install pump assembly into top fuel pump assembly group
- Slide racetronix foam sock over new Walbro GSS342 pump
- Carefully utilize heat gun to open up Racetronix FFT-160x8mm on one end to make it easier to install in upper fuel pump assembly. Utilized craftsman 6mm red nut driver
- Install standard end of Racetronix fuel tube on GSS342 pump, utilize Oetiker 11.9mm pinch clamp to hold in place, rotate crimp to center
- Place pump in top of fuel pump assembly
- Place Oetiker 13.3mm pinch clamp on fuel tube
- Lubricate fuel pump assembly top fuel feed nipple
- Carefully reheat outer portion of fuel feed tube end and immediately slide into place on nipple. If it doesn't go all the way to top, carefully apply heat to allow further movement to fully seat
- Slide Oetiker 13.3mm pinch clamp into place and pinch
- Place Oetiker 45.5 Clamp over foam on pump about mid way up with pinch to inside
- Run 14 inch stainless band clamp starting on backside of pump assembly above Oetiker up through support holes, through Oetiker, around pump bottom, through Oetiker and secure
- Pull band clamp tight with needle nose. Once secure cut off excess
- Oetiker 45.5 clamp is secure enough on foam, does not need pinched
- Place new pump wire harness in place and then secure with secondary red locking tab
- Slide top pump assembly into bottom bucket
- Attach sender to bucket side, secure with small tie wrap through 1/8" hole to be drilled in top of sender holder (note that some have mentioned re-using the old sender assembly with the new "chip". this can work, but i have notice that the resistor "chip" is quite fragile and easy to break, therefore I use this method to avoid any breakage
- Prepare Holley 16-111 Hydramat
- Hydramat will be positioned such that long leg goes toward tank filler neck
- Hydramat has 6 locking tabs, 5 not utilized need to be trimmed away
- Securely press Hydramat onto bottom of pump
- Utilize craftsman 6mm nut driver to securely press locking ring onto pump securement pin
- Re-install sender float arm
- Assembly complete
Not sure why you're putting that plug in place of the regulator. Are you putting in another bulkhead for the return, or will the return be in the tank before it goes through the top of the sender?
To be clear it is not a solid plug, ie the interior of the plug is hollow so it is a bypass (ie open flow) plug, ie think about it as if you took the original FPR and just hollowed it out, it would just be a shell with no restriction which is what this is. all it does is insure the fuel goes directly into the bucket and therefore right on top of the Holley Hydramat versus spraying all over ... not sure it is an absolute must as the Hydramat is large and really sucks up the fuel it seems, but I thought it was still a nice addition
Oh ok. Where does fuel come out of the return in that Herko unit? I have only seen the stock GM one and the Delphi (which I think is the actual OEM) and they both have fuel come out of the regulator hat. I went and looked at your pictures a few times, but I can't figure out where the fuel return on this version.
I am wondering if the Herko even uses the siphon jet system to keep the bucket full......?
It won't matter with your modifications where the fuel goes since you cut the bottom of the sender out and no longer get the benefit of the pump being covered completely100% of the time.
From the ICT description though, it looks like this is a block off for truck fuel rails so the return can't be used. I am wondering if the same will be true in the Herko bucket
Oh ok. Where does fuel come out of the return in that Herko unit? I have only seen the stock GM one and the Delphi (which I think is the actual OEM) and they both have fuel come out of the regulator hat. I went and looked at your pictures a few times, but I can't figure out where the fuel return on this version.
I am wondering if the Herko even uses the siphon jet system to keep the bucket full......?
It won't matter with your modifications where the fuel goes since you cut the bottom of the sender out and no longer get the benefit of the pump being covered completely100% of the time.
From the ICT description though, it looks like this is a block off for truck fuel rails so the return can't be used. I am wondering if the same will be true in the Herko bucket
the black plastic housing that the FPR sits in directs the fuel being returned down the fuel pump assembly guide rod (that rod is hollow) that is attached to that black housing (you can see it in some of the pictures above)... so again you could probably skip this and be generally fine, but this also does insure fuel is dumping direct into the pump area and at least splashing on the pump also during lower fuel levels helping keep it cooler
That's interesting. Is there a siphon jet in that model?
No there is not. It looks like the Herko 084GE original pump utilizes two inlets to the pump, one the inside of the bucket and one on the outside on the bottom of the bucket that way they get away from need the original type venturi. In their setup the bucket is filled by the returning fuel past the FPR and also by a one way umbrella valve in the bottom of the bucket. It actually seems like a good design, but of course the pump is only stock rated. But the new Holley Hydramat seems to work well even in low fuel so it gives a nice new bucket to utilize for the mod
Now I needed to create the wire harness that will go from the top exterior of the pump assembly to the back of rear seat bulkhead connector.
- Utilized to start with the exterior pigtail that was included in the Herko FC31 kit
- Utilized the original 3 pin weather pack male connector shell from original camaro harness
- Made new wire from the original 3 pin weather pack male connector and butt spliced to the FC31 near the connector. (in the future i will make this completely new but I did not have the GT 280 series connector / pins that were needed for the pump assembly end)
- New wire for + and gnd connections 12 AWG TXL Grey and Blk. New wire for sender 18 AWG TXL purple/blk
- Total length end to end of new harness should be 98 cm or about 38.5"
- Weather pack terminals utilize 12 AWG male type (blue seal) for Black and Gray wire and 18 AWG type (green seal) for Purple/Blk wire)
- Pins on weather pack end Black wire goes to "A", purple/blk to "B", and Gray wire to "C"
- To connect wires to original Herko End utilized solder/seal shrink butt splices from McMaster ML5-14 and ML5-16 then also cover with heat shrink tubing
- Note that both black wires from the Herko GT280 connector get spliced together to the one Black wire going to the weather pack
- Cover Harness with Power Braid
(Also just for future reference, I plan on updating the interior bulk head wiring size so I went this route versus doing a separate harness like Racetronix sells, etc)
The Hydramat should work well, but I was apprehensive about their reported life of the filter/sock
Yes I do not know yet on the life, but I have a feeling for the type of miles I put on realistically it will be fine for me. It is getting hard to find new pump assemblies that utilize the venturi these days. The new Delphi utilizes a methodology similar to the Herko unit. I believe Racetronix sells a complete pump assembly but I wanted to do something I could do myself and use basically whatever pump I want for SBC to LS applications so I am doing this
- First remove the original pump unit. While I to have utilized the hammer / screwdriver etc method to get the lock ring off that can be tough sometimes. Therefore I invested in an original lock ring removal/installer tool and it makes life much, much easier. J-39765
(Also noticed that my old pump assembly for being 10+ years old was in good visible condition overall including the tie wrap securing the sender assembly method I used even back then)
- Prepare the new pump assembly for insertion by placing a new seal ring on the pump
- Lightly lubricate the new seal ring
- Fold Hydramat "wings down to get pump inserted
- Align pump with alignment tab in tank ring circle and press down on pump assembly
- Install outer lock and install back initially with a light tap or two to allow clearance for the J-39765 tool
- Utilize the J-39765 tool to complete the locking action to correct position (Note that i needed to slip the one foot of the tool closet to the Feed line on to the top and just use the other three legs initially until the lock ring moved enough)... the tool easily installs the ring
As noted I am going to run an external FPR regulator (vette FPR/fuel filter type). Therefore I don't yet know the length of the tubing needed to connect from the top of the tank to that. So for now I just made lines long enough and will trim to length at FPR/fuel filter end when I get there
For fuel Feed and Return Lines -
- Feed Line made from SURR 3/8 Nylon Tubing K010, cut initial length to 60"
- Feed Line Pump End connection SURR 3/8-3/8 Straight KP020 with K2982 3/8 11.3 oetiker clamp, lubricate fitting then twist on, light pinch of clamp to secure (also first align fitting release with natural curve of tubing for easier installation / removal )
- Return Line made from SURR 5/16 Nylon Tubing K005, cut initial length to 60"
- Return Line Pump End connection SURR 3/8-5/16 Straight KP030 with K2980 5/16 9.5 oetiker clamp, lubricate fitting then twist on, light pinch of clamp to secure (also first align fitting release with natural curve of tubing for easier installation / removal)
- Slide on lines to appropriate positions, tie wrap along side for securement
- Install exterior fuel tank harness on fuel tank and route along original pathways
- At this point I tested the tank. With the little bit of fuel left in the tank i propped the tank up so the pump was level (this places the fuel right at the bottom of the pump). Utilizing my test harness I briefly provided power to the exterior harness 3 pin weather pack connector ("A" ground, "C" +12V). The pump turned on and fuel as expected flowed out the feed tube
- At this point it was time to re-install the tank. To make my life easier once I held the tank up in position I utilized a post support safety stand to hold the tank in place so I could get the straps back on. This is much easier than using your head to hold the tank while working the straps!
I'm really interested in that plastic line. Always wanted to use it instead of braided hose, just didn't know how to work with it.
So how flexible is it? Can it be persuaded to turn 90° corners? Safe to bend it with heat or does that make it weak?
And I gotta get me one of those lock ring tools! I spent a lot of time trying to tap mine off.
I'm really interested in that plastic line. Always wanted to use it instead of braided hose, just didn't know how to work with it.
So how flexible is it? Can it be persuaded to turn 90° corners? Safe to bend it with heat or does that make it weak?
And I gotta get me one of those lock ring tools! I spent a lot of time trying to tap mine off.
Yes the Nylon line is quite nice for making connections from the tank to the fuel filter area. In my Ramjet swap I also used the same type of methodology to connect to TPI type hardline in the rear (I had the TPI lines flared for quick connects)
It is reasonably flexible as you can even see with my routing on top of the fuel tank (i needed to make a flowing ~90 degree turn) and I didn't need to apply any type of heat to get that. I would say though good radius with reasonable arcs are your friend a sharp abrupt bend likely would work well.
Also I have found there are differences in the Nylon line capability depending on who makes it so I have been sticking with SURR. I have not had any problems with their line and I also think they make the best connectors
For the fuel fill I used the following components
- Hose D125L10B01 which is 1.25" dia hose with a 1.00" reducer for one end from Filler Neck Supply
- Neck FFN359 which I also got from Filler Neck Supply
I cut the hose to a length of 230mm
For the clamp on the neck end I used an Oetiker Pinch Clamp size 45.5mm
For the clamp on the tank end I used a constant pressure GM clamp 11570868 so I can take the neck on and off
I drilled a 5/16" hole in the frame channel that allowed the neck to be secured using a M6X1.0X25mm body bolt. I did need to space the neck bracket off the rail using a 3/8" spacer
Next thing I worked on was getting the rest of the engine bay cleaned out. I decided I am going to utilize 4th gen booster and master and also decided to even take out the original 3rd gen pedals and replace with 4th gen. The deeper I got I was happy that I decided to taken everything out as the hidden areas were quite dirty with polishing compound etc from when I had the IROC stripped to bare on the exterior and repainted 10 years ago.
After I washed everything, the engine bay still needed freshened up. I really didn't want to paint in this garage but after thinking about it I really wanted to freshen it up so I made an enclosed tent with the lift all the way down and Eastwood Chassis Blacked the engine bay with me inside my tent. It was very tight space to work in and wouldn't have done it without my respirator as it was pretty bad air as you can imagine. However this way I got to do so freshening up of the engine bay and didn't have any overspray worries
Once I got the engine bay cleaned up I was ready to start some re-assembly over the last couple weeks.
Pedals - 4th Gen vs the original 3rd Gen... I took the steering column out to do this, it is much easier this way ... Part of the reason I decided to ditch the 3rd gen pedals was due to the fragile and pretty archaic clutch safety switches etc that the 3rd gen pedal uses. I have on another one of my Z28s had this brake due to brittle plastic and this one looked like it was on its last legs as well
Booster - 4th Gen GM19286770, I used a rebuilt CARDONE 54-71287
Brake Master - GM 89056526
Proportioning Valve - Wilwood Adjustable 260-15048 Kit which includes 260-11179 valve
Clutch Master Cylinder - Tick Tilton Based Adjustable Master Cylinder
Clutch Reservoir - Hawks 4th Gen Reproduction
To mount the Clutch Master I use 5/16 - 18 1.5" long studs in the master and then 5/16 - 18 nylok nuts on the inside. This makes it easier to get the master and support bracket lined up in my experience
I initially adjust the Clutch Master rod to 240mm in length from end of the heim joint that goes on to the pedal to the firewall as a good place to start
The clip utilized to secure the rod to the peddle is GM 03817880
The Pedal mounting hardware to the 4th Gen Brake Booster is M8 x 1.25... I use nylok nuts torqued to 20 Nm in a star pattern to make sure everything seats flat. If you don't remove the column you need to at least drop it to be able to torque the nuts
I really didn't want to paint in this garage but after thinking about it I really wanted to freshen it up so I made an enclosed tent with the lift all the way down and Eastwood Chassis Blacked the engine bay with me inside my tent. It was very tight space to work in and wouldn't have done it without my respirator as it was pretty bad air as you can imagine.
I can relate. I built a makeshift enclosure to take care of the underside detailing. De-grease, sandblast, prime and paint.
I have been making some decent progress over the last several weeks... have a lot of things in progress as I work out how I want to do it. Waiting on some parts, but also getting some good things done
To finish up on the fuel system. I showed how I utilized the 4th gen LS tank and what I did for pump assembly in post above, and then also how I mounted the tank and installed the fuel nozzle.
Now to give details on the rest of the system.
I am utilizing the Corvette LS1 type filter that was used in the vette from 1999 to 2004. This filter has both the filtration and fuel pressure regulator built into it, so it has once inlet but two outlets, all utilizing the GM push to connect type fittings.
- Specifically I utilized WIX 33737
- To mount I utilized the original 3rd gen TPI filter bracket at the same location as the original. To utilize this bracket you need to remove the mounting bracket that comes with the vette LS1 type filter. This is easy to do by drilling out two small spot welds
- Also for additional protection to the Nylon Lines I placed some safe edge I got from McMaster Carr on the lower lip of the fuel filter bracket
For the fuel lines to and from the filter in the earlier post I detailed how I am utilizing the Nylon type tubing for the feed to the filter and then also for the return from the regulator. Initially I had cut both these lines to 60". Details of the filter / regulator end are now worked out as follows
- For the 3/8" feed line, final tube length measurement is 52.5". The connector I utilized on the filter end is a 3/8 - 3/8 90 degree SURR KP125. Before placing this connector on I slid on 36" of 3/8" Hot Rod Sleeve 204011 as additional protection. Also I lined the connector up to the installed filter prior to pinching the clamp
- For the 5/16" return line, final tube length measurement is 51.5". The connector I utilized on the filter end is a 5/16 - 5/16 90 degree SURR KP135. Before placing this connector on I slid on 36" of 3/8" Hot Rod Sleeve 204011 as additional protection. Also I line the connector up to the installed filter prior to pinching the clamp
- To clamp the lines in place I utilized fuel line clamps from Inline Tube's CCB208 kit with 6.3x1.81x12mm bolts in the original TPI locations
For the fuel line going from the filter to the engine compartment frame rail I had a custom stainless steel tube made by Fine Lines
- Based on their FGL 8805SS (same length, bends, etc) 3/8" stainless TPI fuel feed tube
- Instead of the GM o-ring and nuts I asked them to incorporate the GM 3/8" quick connect type flare with the flare being at the same point as where the o-ring was on the original (ie the nipple of the new tube will extend from the point of the original tube's o-ring placement)
- Also make sure to check the chamfer / roughness as received, my had some very light burrs on the end as received and I cleaned up prior to installing to make sure both ends are smooth
- For clamping I utilized a combination of clamps from Inline Tube's CCB208 kit and some 3/8 inch clamps from Summit with 6.3x1.81x12mm bolts in the original TPI locations
- Also leave the clamps loose until you have the Filter in position, etc to get everything lined up in the optimal position
Also to finish out the pedal install I made my own bracket to mount the 4th gen pedals to the top of the dash area mounting. the supplied support with the 4th gen pedals does not have the hole located in the position the 3rd gen pedal set utilizes
I made my support out of 2 X 2 X 3/16" angle.
- Length i used was 38mm
- Made a slot for the pedal side in the middle of the angle. Slot and relief is 10mm diameter/width
- Made a slot in the top that is positioned 14mm from the inside edge of the bracket. Slot width is 11mm
The top of the tab utilizes an M8 X 1.25 body bolt (reused original 3rd gen)
The pedal tab nut is an M8X1.25 Flange Nut (GM 11514596)
Over the last many weeks I have been working on the brakes and am nearing completion on those. I will post what I did in detail once I finish, currently waiting on a couple of parts.
This past week I focused on getting the GMPP Crate Long Block ready for install.
For this version of my 85 IROC I am keeping it simple as noted as I am swapping to 411 controls and want to get it up and running. My long term plan is to move this engine to another project and put something bigger in, but this crate should have some reasonable pep for this summer.
I went with GMPP LS364/450HP (GM 19370163) with is basically an Iron Block 6.0L Gen III 24X with an LS6 camshaft and LS3 Heads. It is also very affordable at just over $4K
It comes with a large and deep oil pan and truck dampener so those things will need to change.
For the oil pan replacement, I went with the Holley 302-3 which is a nice swap pan that can accommodate up to a 4.0 inch stroke. To install this I also used the following parts.
- Oil Pan Gasket GM 12612350
- 4th Gen F Body Windage Tray (needs modified) GM 12558253
- 2 Rear Cover Oil Pan Bolts GM 12554990
- Dipstick Tube GM 12625031
- Dipstick GM 12669528
- Pick Up Tube Oil Pump Seal GM 12557752 "Blue" (I actually utilized the seal included in the Holley kit, but if you need a replacement this is the correct GM number for the Holley tube)
The biggest job of the oil pan swap is modifying the windage tray. You can modify either a full length tray or the 4th Gen F Body shorter tray. I utilized the shorter 4th Gen tray as a starting point. The instructions for the modification are reasonable good, however there are a couple of points that aren't dimensioned, however looking at the tray and the pic you can figure out their intention. I made some notes as you can see in the attached pics for reference. The one cut out is to clearance their oil pick up tube, the other is for the pan itself.
I used a small thin cut-off wheel and disc sander to cut out and clean up the edges. Thoroughly wash the pan after the cut, let dry, and wipe on some WD40 to avoid rust. I have some additional photos of the pan installed that will further illustrate the cut-out
The crate engine came with the pan generally empty, but they had pumped some amount of oil through the engine. To avoid dumping any remaining oil and any dirt, etc from the oil pan into the engine I took the tray off with the engine in the upright position. After that remove the stock pick-up tube and windage tray
It seems that someone is building these crates for GM... there were a lot of hand markings, torque marks, etc as you can see from the pics
Next step is to install the modified windage tray and the Holley pick-up tube. Note that it is important to make sure the tube is seated fully before installing the retention hardware to avoid damaging the o-ring. Lube up the o-ring with some assembly lube and it pushes in reasonably easily. Be careful with the tube bolt installation the one bolt is in a tough access point so don't drop it! Also having a nice long 5mm allen extension socket makes torqueing them a lot easier
01-01-2020, 05:29 PM
