I wonder if this is more feasible than what fbody motorsports sells?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy...1%7C240%3A1318

and I prolly should've researched that bracket on ls1tech before posting. Just hadn't seen much on here about it. I found it researching the swap for my S10

-jason

I think you'd want this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Camar...1%7C240%3A1318

Well, the thought of cutting and welding the crossmember bothered me so much, I took the plunge. Plus, easier to get the AC lines attached.

I'll let you know how it works out.

Cool. Let us know how it turns out. I'm not too worried about the k-member modifications...more about re-plumbing the AC.

Well on my s10 swap, I need to use the truck or corvette accessories.

The f-body accessories have the altenator taking up the same space the steering box already has rights too! LOL

Please post up your results. Good luck with it

-jason

It relocates the alternator, too. Probably don't need to do that. Should work for the AC alone anyway.

Wow, the alt/ps relocation bracket is $100 more than the ac bracket

With that said, they are both a whole lot cheaper than anything else on the market. I'm sure he'll sell out soon

-jason

I see what he's doing now. Similar first page for the instructions for both brackets, 2nd page is specific to the bracket purchased.

So this is to avoid the A/C comprossor from hitting the 3 rd gen K-memeber

How much does a Saden Comprossor run ?

Also What is this issue with the LS1 Alt/PS , I didnt know that was an issue ?

Wouldnt all these issues be solved by a Spohn K-memeber

Just wanting to know the thought process of why five7kid and Jaysz28 is going this route ?

The alternator/PS relocation isn't an issue in 3rd gens. Jason was looking at what's needed for an S10 swap.

The Spohn tubular k-member would solve the issue. But, this is less than half the cost of that, gets the AC compressor out of the tight spot which makes running AC lines difficult, and makes it so you don't have to notch the stock k-member (which also means you can use the support brace on the passenger side).

What about on the driver side ? Spohn told me that the Stock LS1 alt. for a F-body will hit the K-memeber brace be it a stock 3rd gen K-memeber or Spohn tubular K-memeber. The only other option according to Spohn is to use the 3rg gen Alt with custome brackets

Are u using the stock 3rd gen with your LS1 swap ?

Also even with using a Spoh K-memeber with a LS1 A/C comprossor is it still difficult to run the A/C line and also forgo using the K-memeber brace ?

I am just trying to see what route I should go. Buy both the relocation brackets or just the Spohn K-memeber.

Here is what I am trying to accomplish.

02 F-body LS1 in a 82 firebird stock LS1 exhaust manifolds.
Passenger side:
Want to use the LS1 AC comprossor and also the K-memeber brace
Driver Side
Want to keep the LS1 alternator and also the K-memeber brace.

What route should I go ?
1) Keep Stock K-member and get the 2 brackets ? ~$500
2) Buy Spohn k-memeber with brace mounts ? ~$495

my ls1 fbody alt clears the stock k-member just fine

it is a tight fit though

and I do not have the luxury of replacing the k-member in my truck, so if I do the swap to it, I'll need to mount my accessories up high.

-jason

The original system, 2000 Camaro SS LS1:


The contents of the kit:


With the original AC removed, brackets installed. Seems very stout and well-supported:




No AC compressor yet, imagine where it would go on the left in the photo side of the bracket (belt obviously too short now). The tensioner pulley becomes an idler, the tensioner moved and a smooth pulley from the kit installed:


I found a new Sanden compressor with clutch, serpentine pulley, and a bottle of ester oil from a 100% 6500+ rated eBay seller for $130 shipped. When it arrives, I'll install it, find a belt, and take pictures of the final product.

Now I have a factory compressor, mount & pulleys for sale. . .

NICE... I'm jealous!

One other advantage of this relocation kit: You can use the less expensive plate engine mounts with 3rd gen clam shells.

I bought said plates, found out they interfered with the AC compressor in the stock location, sold them to a local swapper who had helped me with the LS7 clutch kit install. . .

I look at that and ask myself....why did GM have to move the alternator all the way down there...
Looks pretty good. Will the stock 3rd gen AC lines plug into the Sanden compressor? I'm weighing this compared to the less expensive option of modding the k-member but then having to have the AC lines modded as well to reach down there.

Well, my stock 3rd gen lines won't fit, because it was driver's side compressor. The description says, "Fitting O-Ring type, suction side #10 and discharge side #8".

Summit sells the 4514 version for $195, $220 polished.

What is this plate mount u were talking about.....Can u post a link ??

I am following ur lead by was thinking of the Spohn Lsx mount.! If there is better option......I would like to know

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
You need the stock 3rd gen V8 engine-side mounts in order for this to work.
It isn't necessarily "better", just another option. If you relocate the AC, you'll avoid the swap mounts, notching the crossmember, and ease AC hose routing. But, you'll have the extra cost of the relocation brackets and Sanden AC compressor.

If you eliminate AC, you can use the Trans-Dapt plates directly. I considered that, but came back around to the creature comfort of AC.

Yeah, I need to get back over there & help you with your project! Only problem is that mine is taking just about all of my free time...

LoL.....I am confused now....

Did u go with the trans adapt mount or

the spohn engine stand mounts ?

Also with the plates , I am guessing its recomended to change out the stock clamshells with the polyurethane one right ? What hardware/bolt would be recommended with the trans adapt plates ?

I went with the Spohn LSx to 3rd gen swap mount stands. Black.

With the Trans-Dapt plates, I'd certainly recommend replacing the stock rubber inserts with poly. I was going down that path until I discovered the compressor interference problem.

The Trans-Dapt plates come with the hardware needed to attach the plates and engine-side mount. You will need a stock 3rd-gen through-bolt to hold the two parts of the mounts (chassis and engine sides) together.

The Sanden compressor arrived today. Simple to mount up.





It's got a 7 groove pulley. Kwik says just use the front grooves, which looks like it aligns fine.

I ran a string around the pulleys with the tensioner held in between the indicator marks, ~98-1/2". On partsamerica.com, the stock application is a Goodyear Gatorback 4060790, listed as 6-ribs, 79" effective length. Searching 4060980 and 4060990, they are listed as 6-ribs 98" and 99", respectively. No 4060985 came up, so I'd guess the 99" would be the better choice.

Well, so much for my string measurement. 99" was too short. Guess I'll try the one recommended in the kit, even though it is for alternator relocation as well. It's about 1-1/2" longer.

Hey, that looks like a pretty neat setup, can't wait to see it in person. Anything else going on w/ your project?

I finally got a bit of "garage time" in today, will post pics if/when I have a bit more time (& when I can dig out where my swap thread went to...)

Slowly plugging away at it. I've had a mental block starting the A-arm drop to get to the engine mounts and replace the front springs (not looking forward to that), so I've been doing engine preps like these brackets and the engine-mounted poly mounts, will probably do the LS6 intake install next which will be the last thing the engine itself needs. Still need to secure the gas tank filler to the body and run the wires for the 4th gen tank. And do the welding on the rear suspension, rebuild or replace the rear disks.

But, at least there is some progress.

101" was just right.



Tensioner marks:

Nicely done, I think this will be the way I will have to go if I want AC, I think the stock AC setup would hit my steering box, so seeing this setup is a bit of a relief.

I can't wait to see it intalled in the car to check clearance with the coolant tank.....

-jason

The radiator overflow is a relatively easy thing to move. Plenty of room in between the grill and AC condenser, for instance.

I know this is an older thread, but what are you planning to control this sanden system with. On mine i pulled out all of the old harness, including the AC lines to the old ECU.

Did you just retain the old control unit in the console and modify certain lines to work? Seems i can get the blower motor and heater to work with a bit of tinkering, not sure how to control a new unit though.

I'll be using the '82 heater/AC control. I haven't gotten that far yet, but the swap fuse/relay box I have includes an AC Request (input) and an AC Clutch (output) wire. Provide 12 V to the AC Request via the '82 wiring and a relay is engaged to power one wire on the Sanden AC clutch. The other wire on the compressor is simply grounded.

Sounds like i'll have to mod my original wiring...I went with a painless harness, that i believe has no provisions for AC.

It isn't part of the main engine harness. At least not on mine. Does your Painless harness have fuses and relays as part of it?

My first engine stab try. Looks like it might work if the inlet/outlet are turned down, but I've decided to do the "normal" thing and notch the crossmember.

AC relocation brackets, new Sanden compressor, 101" belt currently available. . .

or rotate it up

plus, you already have the compressor and bracket... why not run with it?

-jason

It's closer than it appears in the picture. The engine was still up on the hoist and had moved to the driver's side a little by the time I took the photo.

Could probably rotate it up and be fine with the hoses. But, I already have the stock AC compressor, too. And, the stock one is more out of the way for things like plug changes.

I am a little torn. After I get the engine bolted in, I'll try the brackets one more time just to verify and see which I prefer. One unrelated factor is the connector is broken on the stock compressor.