I just picked up a 20,xxx mile crank from an LS2 GTO today for my LQ4. I'm going to be using an LS1 T56 with my swap and the LQ4's wiring harness. Do I need to switch out reluctor wheels? If so, which one do I need, and can someone point me in the direction to buy one? Thanks.

 

I would check into how much it would cost to swap it. If its quite a bit I would get in touch with Lingenfelter as they have an adapter kit for that now..

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/new-pr...er-module.html

A local guy used one when he went to an LS3 and he says it works fantastic. His screen name on Mofbody is Dlove.

 

According to the PDF file in that link, Lingenfelter says that the GTO's and GM Trucks '99-'06 both have the 24x crank tooth. So I guess I don't have to change it afterall!

 

All LS2s are a E40 PCM, 58x reluctor

 

just buy the conversion harness for the swap from 58 to 24

 

According to that file, the LS2's have the 24x?

 

Not the best way to do it, IMO - you're still spending money, & adding one more thing (that's not a part of the original design) to troubleshoot. Better to either use the correct reluctor wheel (which can be done at a machine shop), or swap the ECM.

Just my , FWIW.

 

Plus I would make sure that an LS1 T56 will work right with the LS2 crank. It may have just been a model phase out but the LS2s in the GTO's used the TR6060 transmission instead of the T56.

 

??


Look at page 5 of this file:


http://www.lingenfelter.com/document...ctionsv1.2.pdf

 

Oh well nevermind, it turns out it's from a 2006 Corvette. So now I know for sure it is the 58x. So I'll probably just have a machine shop change it out for me with the reluctor wheel that is on the truck crank. I might even have them change the crankshaft, bearings, and rod bolts while they're at it. I was going to try and do some of that myself but I'm not sure.

 

Do it while your in there. Cheap re assurance.

ARP Rod bolts, new mainbolts, bearings etc.

 

I couldn't agree more. This is the time to do it, while it's accessible!

 

I was trying to find all those parts on summit's website, and it seems like they have a short list of parts for the LSX based truck motors. Can I use bearings for an LS1 in this block?

 

I know jegs lists all of it. Thunderracing has alot of good prices ive found

 

hey, im nemess from tech.
u will need to have the block's mains measured along with the crank journals. i know u said its a budget build, but man just snapping in some bearings and setting in the crank without any measuring,
makes me nervous.
i just cant allow that, unless everything is within factory spec., even then i would have to take reading of everything.

 

No they didn't. The TR6060 didn't come out until a few years later in the ZR1 for sure but I think the Z06 might have it now as well.

The LS2 GTO got the MN12 which is almost identical to a t56 except it has steeper gears. An MN12 with 3.42s in the rear axle is almost geared the same as a T56 with 4.10s.

 

Hmm....that was some info I had seen a while back but when I checked the same source the info was pulled.....must have been bad info....carry on.

 

All my buddy's up here who have done LSX swaps before are telling me as long as I'm putting a stock crank in the block I won't need to worry about having it balanced or even have a machine shop do the work for me. They're all saying that a stock GenIII crank with stock GenIII bearings will work just dandy in my block and I could probably do the work myself.

 

ok, let me ask u this,
did the crank come from a used engine?
did the block come from a used engine? or from a machine shop or out of a box brand new? were they previously assembled together?
if youre using USED parts, the wisest choice is to invest in having everything checked out to make sure and confirm that everything is withtin tolerance, esp. a crank's journals and mains. see, i have machined and assembled many ls engines, cranks, etc. my previous employment was commercial diesel engine asssembly and tear down. my current employment is QC/QA in a machine shop.
u can just slap everything together and it may run awesome for years, or not. its a 50/50.
gl

 

The crank is out of a 20,xxx mile '06 Corvette and the block has 107,xxx on it. I dunno what I'm gonna do for sure yet. I think a shop would rape me if I took the block up there and had them put bearings and rod bolts in it and check it over. A shop quoted me for $325 just to balance the rotating assembly and switch over the reluctor wheel.

 

your putting a 6.0L crank in a 6.0L motor.

sure if you plan on running 8000rpm, and 550hp, have it checked.

But Your not. Dont worry about it. Install it and go.

Put some new ARP rod bolts in, new main hardware, if your bearings are worn, might as well do some preventative maitinence.