Starting my ls swap and I'm reading all over that your oil pans are hitting your stock k-member under load and others are saying its not hitting it and they are fine with the right poly mounts. I just want to do it right and not have to worry about it. Obviously I'd rather save money, keep my stock k-member and make it work. Will I have to hammer the crap out of it.. Or cut it and notch it out? Or is the tubular one the way people are going these days? Any help will be very much appreciated.

 

I plan on notching mine, five7kid did, and he posted it on here.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ppointing.html

I think thats the best option to be safe if you are using the stock K Member.

 

I plan on using a different oil pan.. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...-oil-pans.html I think that is better than cutting, but there are as many options as budget and choice allow, and my budget allows being a guinea pig from time to time (within reason).. I just don't want to cut and don't like tubular.

 

Yeah, if you're not going to go with a tubular K-member (& if -heaven forbid- the Moroso pan doesn't work) then IMHO, notching is really the safest/best option. Both five7kid and I tried to pound it enough to clear, & believe me, it's just NOT going to happen. Even with the notch I cut, there's still not a whole lot of clearance. (I thought about taking a picture of it tonight, but since the transmission isn't in yet, the block is probably sitting at a bit of an angle, which wouldn't necessarily give a correct view of the amount of clearance there is.)

Personally, I'm hoping (for the sake of future swappers) that the Moroso pan works, that seems like it would be the easiest/most ideal solution...

 

well, thanks for the quick response guys. Looks like I'll just have to weigh my options, pick the best one for me and do it.

 

Has anyone tried the Hummer H3 Alpha 5.3 pan?

 

I know you would rather save money, but a tubular k-member on a LSx swap makes things much easier to access, and will really open up the underside. I tried the notched stock k-member for a bit, but then I jumped for a tubular one. You won't regret it.

 

Thanks super_kev, I really was considering it, but then it seems like people are saying its not as strong and its not reliable for street use, so I kinda figured it as a no go.


I haven't read or heard anything about that H3 pan. Are people getting it to work without any issues?

 

The stock k-member is a basically a big sheet-metal brick (vs. a braced tube) so it might resist twisting a little more than a tubular k-member. However, I found the tubular one I got to be nice and solid unit with good bracing. Will it resist bending more than the stock piece if I hit a huge rock in the middle of the road? Who knows, but I have no question that the unit will work just fine for daily driving and corner carving.

 

Sphon claims there's will withstand the every day driving, so I'm thinking its not a bad way to go. Especially since I'm not much of a fabricator and I have limited access to a welder. Looking at the pictures, it really opens it up under the motor. The advantages of putting the motor in and headers alone seem worth it to me.

 

Tons of us have done ls1 swaps with the stock k-member no problems.
I think your really getting ahead of yourself just assuming it won't work.
Is it tight? Absolutly paper thin, but it works more often then not.

But hey if you have the money and desire get a tubular one.
I'd love one myself, but there's more horror stories with those lineing up right then with the oil pan hitting the stock one.

 

exactly why I started this thread. Its good to get everyones feedback and then I can figure out just what I want to do. Thanks Aaron91RS. Come to think of it.. I guess I should have taken a poll on this thread.

 

I don't think that it's as much "just assuming it won't work" as it is "trying to avoid potential problems in the future". I for one was aware that lots of people have done the swap without notching the K-member, but I'd honestly rather spend the time & effort to ensure a bit of clearance while the car is apart than to discover 30,000 miles later that there's a problem. (And yes, it's entirely possible that no problems at all will show up, but this way I'm good regardless.)

But, that's just the way that I decided to do it...

 

Well, I'm glad I was able to get some good info from you guys. From what I've gathered, it looks like these are a few of the options.

*Use the stock k-member and hope it works with the oil pan having a tight living space. ( little risky, but simple and it sounds like lots of guys are doing this)

*Use the stock k-member and notch out the problem area where the pan hits
(Takes some fab skills which I do not possess, but not completely out of the question)

*Buy the new moroso pan and hope like hell it fits. Then theres the lines, and remote filter to deal with. (I'm not one to take the road less traveled by)

*Buy the tubular k-member and take thier word that it works on the streets. But the cost is definatly up there.. I can think of 10 things I'd rather buy with that cash. (Easy, coolness factor, free's up room, but has a little bit of a bad rep and its not cheap..)

I'll toss it around in my head for a while and see what I end up with. Thanks Guys I appreciate all the info.

 

Find your best welding buddy.. buy beer.. look at the pics from other peoples cuts and done! If under 21 skip beer buy soda and pizza.

As for the moroso pan, it has measurments, if someone were willing to measure their current setup that would give a good idea how much k-member clearance it would have next to a stock camaro ls pan on a thirdgen.. It is my plan, but I am not swapping until my barely broken in new setup bites the dust. I really don't think any way is better, but one method is certainly cheaper well except for the beer/pizza/soda..

 

I banged on the crossmember with a sledge for a while, but don't think it did much of anything (kindof a tight space to swing a sledge with it still attached). Using Hawks mounts, and the engine/tranny/everything is in - with about a cm of clearance. I'm going to try my luck

If it rubs I'm sure I'll hear/feel vibration... at which point we'll pull the engine /again/ and notch it. But hey - I'll at least get to hear the engine run before having to pull it...that's gotta be worth something.

 

If you use the Hawks/Spohn conversion mounts, drop the K-member out (which I didn't do) and mount the engine, you'll probably clear. But, I suspect there are manufacturing tolerances from the factory that makes it so some will fit while others won't.

 

If your willing to drop the engine in and out again then put the mounts on the engine and drop it in and slid the whole assembly back until it clears the k member sufficiently. Make sure the engine is sitting level. Mark very clearly around the mounting plates with a magic marker to the k-member and then yank it back out. Drill and bolt the mounts in where your marks are and voila this should make for a perfect fitment with any brand mounts available.

 

And while you're at it, weld nut plates inside the K-member so you never, ever have to mess with those nuts again!

 

There we go! That's more like it fella's. I'm up for trying that one first.

 

Wow talk about over complicating the situation.
I've yet to figure out the trend where all these ls1 engine's are hitting the k-member but anyway.
After my engine bay was ready for the ls1 it took me all of 30 mins to drop the engie/trans in.
If for some reason at that point it didn't fit I'd pull it back out and cut the k-member up.

Instead you guys are talking about spending hours trying not to kill yourself removing the k-member for something that might not be an issue.

Just be careful with the spring compressor and put a log chain through each spring, because if they come loose they can kill you.

 

I will admit to over-analyzing the situation.. but I like talking about things before I dive into them. I want to have a plan.. or I'm just procrastinating like no one's business.. Thats very possible. Either way I feel better having input from you guys. So thanks again, and hopefully this thread helps others who are just starting thier ls swap. Even though five7kid's thread pretty much covered this already.

 

I dropped my ls1 today ona 1990 rs all I did a little smashing with a small sledge hammer and engine went right in nice and easy. I used hawks mounts and got about 1/2 to a 1/4 inch of clearance you guy think that's enough?

 

My oil pan is hitting the k member. Motor mounts and torque arm bushing are looking a bit tired. I'll upgrade to poly eurathane and go from there. I'll probably grjnd the k member a bit.

 

I am working my LS installation as we speak and just went through this issue. The engine was installed and looking at it I had about 0.100" clearance with polyurethane mounts so I removed the K member and notched it. Bought an engine support bar. Installs across the strut towers and the engine stays put. You can also at that time install your new poly mounts. Believe it or not I bought the support bar from Walmart online for 63.00 shipped. Try that from anywhere else they are 150.00 plus. After reinstalling the K member clearance is now up to about 1/2".

 

Figured I'd chime in as well. I used regular setback plates from summit and for the time being my old stock mounts. I dropped the motor in no problems at all. I don't remember much on clearance but really didn't have any issue going in. You can always test fit before you make a decision on what you wanna do. It doesn't take to long to drop that motor in and take a look on clearance and if you don't feel comfortable with it yout can make a final decision on that.

 

This is what worked for me. I made my own adapter plates from 3/8 flat bar. Used the factory clamps shells. The bottom hole of the clamps she'll is common with the bottom front ls hole. I moved the k member mount back 1 inch. Used a holley pan, and have plenty of clearence. I did make my own transmission mount, so I don't know if it would work for everyone.