I've got a few questions that I haven't yet found answers to (yeah, I might well be using the wrong search terms) so as they come to mind I'll be posting them up here. First up, I'm just looking to confirm that my understanding of these lines is correct:



If I have it right, these lines are as follows:

1) Fuel feed (to engine);
2) Return (from engine);
3) Evap/charcoal canister;
4) Tank vent (?)

I did look for the answer in my factory shop manual, but it simply showed/referred to these lines as an assembly, without breaking out which line is for what. Also - I would just trace the lines forward, but I've got a lot disassembled...

Thanks guys.

 

#4 is right for sure, and #1 is also. #2 and #3 is hard to determine. The fuel feed line is biggest followed by the return line followed by the charcoal canister line in size.

 

They appear to be labeled correctly

Feed is 3/8" return 5/16"
Evap is also 5/16" but since it only carries vapor with no real pressure the connections are not as strong, i.e. pinch clips

 

I think thats correct too. Not 100% but whats the worst that could happen if they're wrong? No big deal and probably worth a laugh. I wrote a little list of things to check if for some "mystery" reason it didnt fire on first start up. I added to the list little notes as I built along the way.

Of course I didnt think to add seized injectors from the thing sitting for ? years I had the engine for 2 before I tried and who knows how long it sat before I got it. Ahhh memories....

 

Thanks, just what I needed - one more thing to worry about since I've had my engine since September 2007. . .

 

HAha yeah it took two days of head scratching to figure that out because if I sprayed gas through the TB it ran beauty. Figured it was VATS because I had no fuel flow. I quintuple checked VATS ( I had no HPtuners ) so I assumed it was the little VATS bypass at first. Only way to get one up here was a long wait regardless so I just kind of sat and "thunk" about it. I borrowed these little injector lights that you put in place of the injector to see if they were firing and they were. Trip[le checked fuel delivery and on and on.

Finally after getting so frustrated I just kept squirting gas through the TB because after 2 years of swap mania I just needed to hear it run some more. Then the dang thing fired.... on ONE CYLINDER if you can believe that. Should have heard the ruckus... thought the engine was toast... then two cylinders and I'm thinking

Then it dawned on me so I started tapping the sides of the injectors with the end of a 3/8" extension and in a few minutes I had in running on all 8 and the rest is now just worth a good laugh

 

Oh man, I can relate to that a bit...

Oh man, that's a great story, glad that it was such an easy fix.

I have another question - right now it's looking like the ECM connectors are going to end up right in the driver's side battery tray (figures) - and since I am NOT going to extend all of those wires, I'm thinking that I'll need to relocate the battery. (I was planning on doing that eventually anyway, & already have a sealed box.)

I've heard that the best cable gauge to use for that is 0/1 welding cable - but Summit offers a kit that appears to be just what I need, except that the cable is 1-gauge, which is a bit smaller. Now since every other kit that they offer is either 1-gauge or 2-gauge, I'm guessing that that's sufficient (even if somewhat less than ideal). Does anyone here have first-hand experience with using 1-gauge cable when doing battery relocation? (FWIW, this is a warm-weather-only car...)

Thanks guys.

 

1 gauge will work just fine.

Here's a shot of how my truck harness fit into the engine bay last year (Identical routeing to yours)



My biggest beef with the harness was the way the wires went back and forth all over the motor. Truck harness's are a bitch to make them look pretty, less you extend/shorten alot of wires (I did this on mine)

 

I have the exact relocation kit in my GTA. Its a 1 guage and runs back to my passenger side rear wheel well. I run a non venting Optima redtop and have had zero issues with cranking power. Just make sure you pick up a battery tray as well and you can mount it right where the spare tire is stored.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...31549&D=331549

EDIT: Nevermind, I see you already mentioned you have a sealed box.......

 

Thanks for the confirmation guys, I really appreciate it.

After thinking about it a little bit though, I think that I'm going to call a few welding supply places, & see what the heavier cable is going for. I can remember a few years ago when the GTA was my DD & my alternator went out, it started running really crappy (since there was barely enough juice to fire the injectors) & I barely made it home from work that night. Adding more electrical stuff like the drive-by-wire throttle is only going to make it more sensitive to the condition of the electrical system, so I might as well try to do it right the first time...

Thanks again guys.