Trying to get the swap running tomorrow, need some last minute questions answered
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,258
Likes: 6
From: O'Fallon, MO
Car: 1991 Z28 convertible built 3/1/1990
Engine: Cammed 6.0L LSX
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: custom Ford 8.8", 4.10 gears
Trying to get the swap running tomorrow, need some last minute questions answered
Ok, I have read, re-read, and read again various threads on how the heater hoses are supposed to be ran with this swap and it still confuses the tar out of me.
I have the stock heater hose lines from my car, with the diverter valve. I have been looking at this article with these pictures, and it is confusing me to no end because it looks like there is only one hose coming from the firewall (heater core). There are TWO outlets on the firewall for the heater core. I understand you can cut the hose that went from the heater core to the radiator short and put it on the forward-most port on the water pump. But what the heck goes to the other outlet on the heater core?
Link:
http://www.team3rdgen.com/modules/3r...eater_hose.htm
And my other confusion involves NOT drilling and tapping a nipple onto the top of the water pump for the steam ventilation, and simply running a small hose from where the heater core line that was attached to the radiator (the hose we cut), running a hose from that point to the coolant cross over tubes underneath the intake manifold. From my understanding this works just as good as having a nipple on the water pump.
Anyone that has detailed pictures of how they ran all their heater hoses and DID NOT put a nipple on the water pump, and DID run a hose from the radiator to the coolant cross over tubes, please post them. I really want to get this figured out by tomorrow evening so I can do a test-fire.
I have the stock heater hose lines from my car, with the diverter valve. I have been looking at this article with these pictures, and it is confusing me to no end because it looks like there is only one hose coming from the firewall (heater core). There are TWO outlets on the firewall for the heater core. I understand you can cut the hose that went from the heater core to the radiator short and put it on the forward-most port on the water pump. But what the heck goes to the other outlet on the heater core?
Link:
http://www.team3rdgen.com/modules/3r...eater_hose.htm
And my other confusion involves NOT drilling and tapping a nipple onto the top of the water pump for the steam ventilation, and simply running a small hose from where the heater core line that was attached to the radiator (the hose we cut), running a hose from that point to the coolant cross over tubes underneath the intake manifold. From my understanding this works just as good as having a nipple on the water pump.
Anyone that has detailed pictures of how they ran all their heater hoses and DID NOT put a nipple on the water pump, and DID run a hose from the radiator to the coolant cross over tubes, please post them. I really want to get this figured out by tomorrow evening so I can do a test-fire.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 807
Likes: 2
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1991 Trans Am GTA
Engine: LSX (swapping)
Transmission: 4L60E (swapping)
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi 10 Bolt
Re: Trying to get the swap running tomorrow, need some last minute questions answered
I think if you don't plan on keeping A/C you can just ditch the diverter valve and go straight from the two water pump ports to the two heater core ports.
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,519
Likes: 18
From: Fort Myers, FL
Car: 91 Firebird
Engine: 6.0
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Trying to get the swap running tomorrow, need some last minute questions answered
Sounds like you don't have the pipe that runs along the frame rail to the heater core in your car.
-jason
-jason
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,258
Likes: 6
From: O'Fallon, MO
Car: 1991 Z28 convertible built 3/1/1990
Engine: Cammed 6.0L LSX
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: custom Ford 8.8", 4.10 gears
Re: Trying to get the swap running tomorrow, need some last minute questions answered
Yea I do still have that hose. I have like 3 hoses (or maybe 4) that were from the stock setup. One of them is metal, and I have the diverter valve.
I will eventually use A/C, but not right now. I kind of want to hook it up so it will work with a/c, but I guess if it comes down to it I can change it later.
I will eventually use A/C, but not right now. I kind of want to hook it up so it will work with a/c, but I guess if it comes down to it I can change it later.
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,685
Likes: 10
From: PA
Car: 86 Trans AM
Engine: LS1 (not stock...)
Transmission: Built T56
Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt w/ 3.73
Re: Trying to get the swap running tomorrow, need some last minute questions answered
Simplest way... Hook two hoses from the water pump up to the heater core. It'll work. I ran it that way for awhile. A/C will work also. Not to 100% efficiency...but it'll work.
The stock heater control valve isnt optimal for the LS1 in my opinion. You should pick up the valve that I used for my swap...Im sure you saw my posts about it. Simplest hook up, and seems to work great. Also...you can easily plumb that in after you hook up the heater hoses. Winter is coming...Ide forget about the valve for now, and just run the hoses in their most basic configuration.
Remember...The LS1 didnt have a heater control valve. So you will be fine without one for the time being.
As for the steam vent...again, if you run a hose from the outlet under the throttle body, to the radiator, you will be setting it up just like it was in the 4th gen. Im not sure exactly what all you have going on...but if you have a port on the rad, just use that. No need to drill and tap the water pump.
J.
The stock heater control valve isnt optimal for the LS1 in my opinion. You should pick up the valve that I used for my swap...Im sure you saw my posts about it. Simplest hook up, and seems to work great. Also...you can easily plumb that in after you hook up the heater hoses. Winter is coming...Ide forget about the valve for now, and just run the hoses in their most basic configuration.
Remember...The LS1 didnt have a heater control valve. So you will be fine without one for the time being.
As for the steam vent...again, if you run a hose from the outlet under the throttle body, to the radiator, you will be setting it up just like it was in the 4th gen. Im not sure exactly what all you have going on...but if you have a port on the rad, just use that. No need to drill and tap the water pump.
J.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,258
Likes: 6
From: O'Fallon, MO
Car: 1991 Z28 convertible built 3/1/1990
Engine: Cammed 6.0L LSX
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: custom Ford 8.8", 4.10 gears
Re: Trying to get the swap running tomorrow, need some last minute questions answered
Cool, thanks. I think I am making it more complicated than it really is. I won't even be driving it this winter, I just want to get it running today so I can take it to get the exhaust done and get it tagged next week and tuck it away for the cold months.
I'm going to have to try to find a barbed reducer fitting to reduce the nipple on the radiator to a hose size that will fit on the coolant cross over tubes.
I'm going to have to try to find a barbed reducer fitting to reduce the nipple on the radiator to a hose size that will fit on the coolant cross over tubes.
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,685
Likes: 10
From: PA
Car: 86 Trans AM
Engine: LS1 (not stock...)
Transmission: Built T56
Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt w/ 3.73
Re: Trying to get the swap running tomorrow, need some last minute questions answered
EDIT: Nevermind.. .Mis read your last post. Good luck!!
J.
J.
Last edited by ghettocruiser; Nov 21, 2009 at 01:25 PM.
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