OK so finally I got my dropout from a 2006 GTO into my garage in the very north of Sweden. Took a loooong time to get the crate up over here from Connecticut in a cheap way.
The engine and tranny is going into my 1989 Iroc-Z that I bought in Colorado back in 1998. I´ve been working on the car during most winters ever since and driving it during the summer. (around 5 months each year for me then. . .)
As for now I´m trying to figure out which cables to keep in my engine bay and which cables that belongs to my L98. Not an easy task for me, the electical part of a car is the hardest part for me
My intention is to sell off the L98 and th700 as soon as its out of the car, to help finance the parts that I need for my LS swap, Motor/tranny mounts, torque arm and cables hoses and a lot of other things like that.



Is there anyone that knows if I could wire the LS2 into my stock Camaro diagnostic port connection (ALDL i guess) or If I need to get the OBD2 connector from the donor car?

 

looks like a sick project,ill be following up on it!

 

Wiring is covered in the LS1 swap sticky. Its not the same for your LS2, but the process will be similar. Be very meticulous and double check everything. Going back to solve a problem is very time consuming

Your stock ALDL is OBDI which is not compatible with OBDII. Fortunately the OBDII connectors are universal on all 96+ GM vehicles

 

Thanx alot for your fast response Pocket. I´ll give the junkyards in Sweden a call then to see if they got any ones for decent money. This kind of swap isn´t easy even if you live in America, imagine how it is over here...people just go L..S what? That´s not a Volvo engine right?...
I guess I´m gonna need your help in the future...alot.
So if anyone is interested in taking a super vacation in the mountains in Lapland and do some LS2 wiring, you are all more than welcome to my place;-)

 

OK, just spent some more time in the garage.
I managed to get the main cable harness from the passenger side footwell out into the engine bay.
Now I have a few cables left that I don´t know anything about or what to do with.
"One" bunch of cables and 2 different sized relays is attached/located in front of the battery tray location. The other "one" is actually 3 relays on the firewall just below the window on the drivers side.

I´ll attach a couple of thumbnail here below of things that I don´t know whether to keep in the engine bay or remove and include with my L98.
I´ll also attach pic of my GTO clutch pedal assembly. What do you think about it, will it be worth trying to use or should I try to find 3:rd och 4:th gen ones? I know that I have to stick with the gas pedal from the goat
Thanx for any help you can give me/R

 

Relays are identified by wire color/size. Just a pic of a relay doesnt help because most of them interchange freely

An 89 TPI will have MAF, Burnoff, Fan1, Fan2, Fuel, AC clutch, and blower fan

What you pictured isnt important, only that you retain the ones to keep

Read this, but compare it to the 89 C100 and C207 pinouts. I do remember that the fan fuse goes through the C207 in 89, so the step of completely cut off the ECM harness isnt a simple cut and forget

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...p-3rd-gen.html

 

OK, things are going quite slowly for me here in Sweden, but here´s what happened since my last update:

Old engine and transmission is out and sold.

Motor and transmission mounts ordered.
Torque arm with transmission crossmember mount is ordered

Engine bay is now a "construction site". Metal/lead filler is being applied in various locations. Hopefully I´ll be able to paint the engine bay in about two weeks time. The E B is really hars to prep I´ve noticed...a LOT of factory spot welds to fill, a LOT of hard to reach spaced to sand etc.
The engine bay will be just pure white with clear coat.
The car has got a orange "pearl" effect on it, but I dont see much use of that in the engine bay, so I´m not gonna bother with the extra hazzle.

 

You're going to need an oil pan and oil pump pickup tube from a F-body. Later, Dean

 

Yep I know. I´m trying to find as many things as I can from one seller/company.The shipping is so expensive. The shipping for my torque arm and motor mounts to Sweden was over 320$, and then the Swedish customs wants another additional 25% of the entire amount! You guys are lucky being born in the right country. . .

 

You could always move to the right country.

I'd check the LSx and T56 swap threads for the information you need.

 

Good Luck!! really cool thought that third gens are global

 

Finally I´ve had a weekend with some progress. Everything has been going soooo slowly for me since june, ended up single, so most of my paycheck has been spent on boring stuff like rent and food since then...

Anyways, this friday I finally got my parts from Hawks. F-body Slavecylinder, Pro 5.0 shifter, F-body oil pan with the p u tube and windage tray.

Changed and mounted that stuff during saturday, twice for the oil pan, since I didnt realice that the LS1 F-body oil pan didnt have a hole for the dip stick. My LS2 block has one that was plugged and had to be opened up from the inside....bummer.

Today, sunday. I got the engine mounted to the K-member and got the entire package mounted in the car. Feels really good.

One thing that I thought would fit was the cast LS2 manifolds, but they were not even close. So now I have to find some F-body manifolds for cheapo....not that easy in Sweden;-)

 

your gonna love the ls2. i wish ida saved my money and went straight there from the start.. like you are doing. nice car too

 

CRAP!
The engine is now back on jackstands. The oilpan was rubbing against the K-member slightly...but I now that would cause alot of noise and rattles with the engine running so I have now "nothed" the K-member.

I did grind of part of the ugly factory weld before I had it painted by a professional with some durable industrial paint. Now I´m gonna take it back to the same guy again, along with the swaybars and A-arms for the same treatment.

I just wish that I would have been wise enough to Notch it the first time.

 

Looking forward to updates to this thread!

 

92-Formula: They´re coming soon. I´m waiting for my "J1 harness" that I´ve ordered from Speartech. I´ve also ordered a bunch of stuff for the intake etc. As it is now, I dont have any parts to go in the build....Havent done much in the garage for a month now....I´ve been selling of a lot of the old "IROC-Z original" stuff actually, to finance a trip to USA this summer :-)
Gotta order radiator hoses, and mess with the hoses for the heaterbox. Need an AC delete panel too and like one million more things :-) I finally managed to find (500$ find..) some one that can tune/turn of stuff in the ECM/computer here in Sweden. Which wasnt too easy....
Still waiting for some stuff for my fuel system that was on backorder here in Sweden. Even the big hose/ hydraulic business companies here in´Sweden don´t have Saginaw adapters/fittings, and 3/8" fittings etc in stock. It´s all millimeter here you know ;-)
A good thing/progress was that all of the stock power steering hoses did fit the GTO power steering pump almost perfectly.

 

pocket could have made u a harnes for alot less then spear tech but nice build good luck..

 

I´m not so sure about that since the J1 harness is only a partial harness concerning the drive by wire/throttle functions and fuel supply, ODB2/diagnostics, gauges etc. Speartech charges 350$ for it. I´m keeping the stock LS2 harness for the rest.

The J1 harness is something that does not exist on Ls1 cars. It´s not like I´m buying a complete harness for 1500$

 

What did you do to get the strut tower mounts plates smooth to the inner fenders? I notice they are seamless... I'm looking to do the same thing. Did you weld around it, feather with a grinder then use body filler???

I'm jealous btw... nice swap... I cannot use an LS2 thanx to emissions

 

nice eye i didnt even notice that and yea that looks sick im interested in knowing how u did it too.. i was thinking about just grinding mine down to bare metal and using a fiberglass based body filler but was worred it would crack under stress....

 

My thoughts exactly. With the strut going all over the place I don't think glass filler will hold up. I just don't know anything about welding... look at the pic that shows the bare metal... it looks seamless ... how did he do it?? Don't mean to spam his thread but I have been looking this up all week and found little results.

 

ahh just read it lol in the picture where its bare metal he said it metal/lead filler.. lead filler was used back in the day when all the cars were lead.. its put on with a simple blue tank hand held tourch and dripped onto where its needed and spread out with a wooden trol (sp?)

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SD98LDc0GAI

i just learned a bit about lead filler

 

Yep I used lead filler with a blow torch. I don´t know for sure if it will hold up though...I just hope it does. The work is not that bad/hard to do. I just got sick of the crappy finish under the hood of these cars. especially when I compare it to my Mercedes....It looks like its made with a sledgehammer. So I decides to see if there was anything I could do that would clean it up a bit. I hope that my 3 point Edelbrock strut tower brace will make it last and not crack.
We will find out this summer, hopefully I have it back on the streets then.
There are more pics of my lead work at my page www.nordiccamaros.se under gallery somewhere

 

your engine bay looks amazing nice work with the torch

 

Thanx alot. Just wish that I could get things going. For the last month everythings has just been standing still. Backorder on all the stuff etc. I´ve been trying to find a bunch of stuff on Swedish junk yards, but they dont have anything that I need. Not even LS1 f-body exhaust manifolds, that you guys get for cheapo over there. Feels sick if I have to order used cast manifolds from the states...
I´m planning a trip over to California during july/august. Are there any really good F-body meetings then that you guys know about?
Would be great to be able to meet up with some true LSx third gen enthusiasts over there!

 

uhh... just use the US version of ebay or craigslist... heck, somebody on thirdgen or LS1tech may have manifolds. Not hard to find out here...

if it comes down to it... SLP...

 

might be cheaper to run the f-body casting on a gm dealer there i know some of the box trucks used the same manifolds just the egr and air aren't drilled which is a plus

 

Never heard of those truck manifolds myself. Got me very interested. Sounds great that AIR eng EGR are closed out. Does anyone know exaktly what truck manifold I should look for?

Other than that, I have some small news regarding my build. I got the J1 harness from Speartech a few days ago. The look and feel is superb OE quality with everything nicely labeled up.
Today I´ve been working on my intake tubing using 1 90 degree 4" aluminum pipe and one 45 degree piece. waiting for my large K/N filter to arrive before I can finish it up.

 

Finally some garage time again. Air intake built up from a 45 degree 4" aluminum tubing and silicone elbow, with a huge K/N filter at the end.
I´m in the progress of cutting up a big hole in the old battery tray on the drivers side cool air can enter the filter. Been using a small Dremel tool with miniature cutting discs, but it just takes forever as the discs last about 20 seconds each :-)

I also got my old L98 radiator with dual fans back in. 4:th gen hoses. V6 upper and LS1 lower. Need to replace the upper and lower mounts for it though since both are cracked...and I just realised how expensive they are, like 150$ for two plastic pieces.
All these little things really ad up to alot of money after a while.

Routed the heater hoses down by the "frame rail". I would really like to be able to use the diverter valve, but I couldnt figure out a way for it to work anymore, even though I´ve spent alot of time searching forums for a good solution. Maybe I´m a bit retarded.

Tomorrow I will continue with the front end and put the front springs back in. Plan on cutting half a coil off to compensate for the weight reduction. I run Eibach Sportlines, what do you think of that? My car was about 15mm taller in the back than in front before the engine swap, and I´m aiming for a level stance on it this time, not lower in the front as before.

 

Contact these people, they can make and tell you everything you need for the wiring
http://www.speartech.com/
Good luck with it!!

 

I´ve already bought my J1 harness from John "Speartech"
Thanx for the tip anyway;-)

 

Found a "strange" tube/line that runs from the front of the intake to the back of the intake. I guess this has something to do with the emissionssystem on the LS2 engine. What should I do with this tube? Can I just leave it open?

 

Also did some carbon fibre work on the plastic piece that goes in the front. Now it´s stronger and looks better. Cut out an opening for the washer fluid bottle that I mounted in the front A la´BlueZee28. I know that the carbon work isn´t top notch, but it was my first try, and i didn´t have access to a vacuum bag.

 

From the picture to the far right you can see where the line "starts" or goes too, I don´t know... You can also see some wear on the plastic GTO coil covers. I bought this engine from Cleveland pick a part, and it was supposed to be completely stock. But now I suspect that it has had a Magnuson type blower installed at sometime. The GTO´s with that kind of blowers has a water coolant line that runs tightly by the coil cover...so completely stock....yeah for now :-) I just hope that the inside of the LS2 is still fresh.

 

That tube/line thing is the evap apparatus, purges the gas tank into the throttle body or intake (I can't remember which) when necessary to relieve pressure. There is a diagram on here somewhere detailing the whole system; I'll try to find it. On my car, I removed the whole thing and capped the opening to the TB/intake, as I didn't use evap

 

http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation...cv-system.html

I used this thread when I was trying to figure out all the hoses and stuff circling the intake. Hopefully that helps you out.

 

Thanx sarge. Yeah that´s was what I thought it was then. Maybe I´ll just leave them on the engine. Maybe it can fool the "Swedish Car testing authority" For us here they just dont test the emissions. They inspect every inch of your car every year....They arent normally too happy when I show up in my American car....For them your some kind of criminal driving a non Swedish car ;-)

 

Just came back home from the garage again. Have been spending 4-8 hours there every day now for the last month :-) Being single has some advantages after all ;-)

My friend Isse has been working on the wiring the whole week now, and we finally cranked the engine today. First with the spark plugs out to try to get some oil pressure on the gauge. But nothing hapened at all. The other gauges seems to at least "react". But the oil pressure gauge didn´t even respond/move even the slightest.

The wiring seams to be very confusing regarding the oil pressure sender to the gauge. Does anyone here on this forum know if I can even use the stock 3 wire LS2 oil pressure sending unit/sensor? And in that case, how to wire it? From the research that I´ve made on this subject earlier, I thought it was gonna work properly with my stock gauge....

After maybe 30-40 seconds on the starter motor without the plugs in the cylinder heads we put the spark plugs in even though we did´nt see any oil pressure on the gauge...and tried to fire the motor. But nothing happened.
My tuner guy says that the VATS is turned off of the computer. So it "shouldn´t" be that. I have some leaks of my shortened/modified stock fuel line, maybe those leaks are causing too low fuel pressure? Will this tell the computer to not fire the ignition?

OK, anyways, it feels SOOO good to finally be able to "almost start" my LS2/T56 swap that I have been working on for 1,5 years now :-)

Thanx everyone that has tried to help me out here on this forum so far.
/Robert

 

Sweet, keep on truckin, and yes being single does have it's advantages if you build this stuff like we do instead of an ungrateful crumb cruncher and a cheating wife spending all your hard earn cash.!! LOL!!!

 

thats funny as hell.

 

YES!!! It´s finally alive again, with it´s new heart transplant completed

 

Then its picture time!!! lol Lets see em

 

It´s coming some pics and vids soon. My computer at home died last friday, so I´ll have to bring my camera to my work. Which I of course forgot to do today...
Then I´ll have to get new spring for the front end. The car is so low that I can´t drive it anywhere. 2" of ground clearance.....I cut my Eibach´s half a coil, whick I should´nt had done at all....strange.

 

 

 

Just 2 pics of the car out of the garage, and one of the engine bay. More pics are at my site www.nordiccamaros.se

The car came out too low again. First I messed up my Eibach coils by cutting them 1/2 coil. And the I took my dad´s stock Grand Prix coils and cut them 1 coil. The result was just about exactly the same. 1,5" of ground clearance!!! So now I´m looking for stock Iroc springs for the front. And then I´ll need to redo some parts of the exhaust. I´ll try to get some vids of it running town the streets soon.

 

I am sure stock IROC springs will yield too high of a ride height. This has been discussed in several existing threads but there never has been a clear conclusion/agreement. I have a set of '87 V6 springs out in my shed awaiting the day. Whatever springs you get I believe the best practice to use despite the possible additional work of taking them out again is to not trim them before installation. Test fit and measure > remove and trim conservative amount if necessary > reinstall > repeat if necessary...

Mike

 

Hey congrats!! Feels good after all that effort when they come alive again eh?

Cant wait for the same thing myself. I have managed a little bit of time to wrench on it but Im still a little ways from start up. Wiring harnesses *grumble*

Lets see some vids of the beast chewing up some of that pristine Swedish asphalt!!! I could use some motivation. Speaking of which I recall this swap linked below which REALLY motivated me to get it done last time. Enjoy

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ta-videos.html

 

As soon as I get my taller front springs in I´ll be making some video clips. Drove around for maybe 30 minutes with it yesterday, and it seems as it´s functioning pretty well. Does anyone know exactly what kind of "interface" I need to get my tach working properly?
Anyways, the car is SUPER FUN to drive and finding traction is really hard on 1,2 nd gear. Just the way I like it!!!
Another strange issue that I´ll have with it now is that the steering wheel needs to be about 15 degrees to the right for the car to go straight...any ideas?