Pocket, why not build a simple blower intake manifold for it? it seems like you have the skill to do a nice intercooled setup.

 

^thats why

 

Cheap ebay intercoolers stand in the way. Maybe he could apply a cheap ebay FMIC to make a liquid to air.

 

I think his setup looks alot cooler if thats worth anything.

 

I braved the cold for a little while. Whatever happened to global warming? 28* with a 20mph wind... BRRRR. I wouldnt bitch too much except this is NC, not Wisconsin

Anyways

Rough fitment with the finished plate. Outlet hat isnt going to be as easy this time


First two bolts may need to be welded to the plate before building the hat if I keep the modular design


Not sure where Im going to move the oil fill to. Dipstick flat out isnt going to work. Ill have to get a lokar piece. Those heater core lines are really pissing me off. Im looking into building hardlines from conduit to run the framerail


The inlet opening actually has the same perimeter as 4" tubing. Good news so I can simply squish a 4" tube and weld it onto the flange. No reducing or similar to create turbulence (noise) before the rotors


Biggest hurdle, the blower outlet flange overlaps quite a bit of the main bracket


Removed and a scrap piece of angle laid over


Thinking instead to weld the main bracket to the blower plate and cut a hole in it for the charge pipe, then form the hat accordingly. It would kill the modular design, favoring one large assembly the blower bolts to then bolts the whole thing to the head. Im not sure how easy the bracket to head bolts will be to access once the tensioner is put on



The downside of one large bracket assembly is the belt alignment becomes critical at the beginning of the fab and warping becomes a major issue. With the modular tray/plate design, slight errors can be addressed by redrilling a few holes and shifting the blower to suit

First of the 3 crank hub pieces came back. Looks sweet. Said it'd be about 3 weeks before the others are done

 

What CAD software did you use to make your models Pocket?

 

AutoCAD 2002

Same thing I do all my wiring diagrams with

 

Crap!

The M122 is going to be loud too. Not as bad as the old M90, but still not quiet



Also, Mr Al Gore, you owe me a dash pad

 

Don't quite see what your referring to.

 

There is none, so I am assuming Mr. Sun cracked it.

 

Man that is loud, I love it!

 

Cold got it last night, just like the cold killed my original last year

Removed it today to do the heater core and tinker with the vacuum lines for the HVAC

 

cold got what? the dash pad?

 

Yes

 

Cold makes them brittle.

 

Built the heater core tubes today. Time to get rid of those bulky lines for good. #8 plug access is not as easy but do-able with the stubby





They look better painted but it got dark on me

 

Just got around to watching the vids you posted and man that thing is damn impressive! It stands up and stays up.

 

New heater core, painted the new heater lines black and installed with fresh hose. Flushed the coolant system, added a pillar pod to hold my boost/fuel press gauges. Pulled the dash hunting the vacuum leak to why the heater door wasnt moving. Took some measures of the current plates and modeled them in CAD. Used those models along with a few accessory drawings to build final assembly drawing

Tensioner is my biggest hurdle. It has to be located in space on the upper side to clear the WP pulley. Problem is it rotates counter-clockwise. Id switch it for a clockwise rotating tensioner except HD units made for a blower dont pop up FS very frequently and new they are about $150 each. Ill make it work anyhow

Its bolted to a 1" tube thats welded to the main cyl head plate. Support rods to the blower tray and waterpump. Hopefully it wont move much. I do miss having Solidworks to test it out though



10 rib belt, 216* of belt wrap on the SC pulley and 205* of wrap on the crank. It better not slip... ever

Crank pulley is 7.8" dia, SC 2.6". Drive ratio is 3.0, so the blower should be spinning about 19,500RPMs when I hit redline. Screamin'

Once I get another engine to play with Ill start mocking up the headers. Modifying a set of NASCAR SB2.2 headers, 1 3/4 stepped to 1 7/8 primaries, stainless. I hate to hack them up, but I cant seem to sell them

 

dang Pocket! You're an ambitious guy! Nice work!

 

WRT to belt wrap, have you ever seen what KB does with their blowers, like the mustang kit has a heavy plate that mounts on the front of the block (relocates the alternator so it's spun around) with 2 adjustable eccentric pulleys on either side of the belt pinching it together just below the blower pulley

 

Actually, here is one that I did a while ago that you can kind of see what they did:


Stillen does the same thing with their 350Z/G35 setup (also eaton based, M90....), but they also use a small jack-shaft that installs in the front wall of the block.

 

Like this?


Ill see about designing a support plate to hold the extra pieces. Using a common plate should make it easier to keep all the different pulleys true to each other

Thanks

Found the one you're talking about with the relo alt

 

yep, I guess you missed my picture... the retarded thing about the KB setup is that the pivot bolts go into a water passage and can leak coolant

 

I went picture hunting and didnt scroll up. My bad

Was playing with the pulley locations trying to make a design that cleared everything. Between the charge pipe, accy drive tensioner pulley, waterneck, and waterpump pulley, it was pretty tight

Two fails out of about 20


I moved the plate to the front which allowed the tensioner to be reversed. This helped two ways, the HD tensioner body doesnt interfere with anything and the pair of pulleys can overlap planes without physically touching


Mounts to two blower snout bolts (replaced with studs and sleeves) and a accy drive tensioner bolt stud. Not sure how Id get a wrench on the HD tensioner to install/remove the belt though



I dont see how to add one more idler near the SC pulley to maximize wrap without adding a second down low to prevent belt to belt contact. The lower I go, the less there is to bolt something to. Might just keep things simple with the 3 point belt. I checked the length VS Goodyear's belt catalog and Im still well within common belt sizes

 

Can you say custom wrench?

 

Man, this is why I love bolt ons. he he he

Wish they made a bolt on twin screw supercharger for the LT1.

 

Build your own

I will warn you, twin screws are extremely expensive

 

got any updates for us?

 

He's probably adding a second supercharger as we speak.

 

Well Ive got 3 currently...

 

I won't be building any twin screw superchargers anytime soon. he he he

Man the engine I am building would be frickin' NASTY with a twin screw charger feeding it.

 

I sure wish I could swap my vortech for a twin screw, too bad it aint worth **** anymore compared to the prices of a twin screw.

I think a 177 would annoy me just knowing how inefficient it is.

 

Meh, centrifugal is the way to go on a street car, hell, most race cars nowadays seem to go to the centrifugal as well.

 

Hmm...

I suppose you have done twin superchargers already, may as well skip that and throw all 3 on!

 

The balancer hub came back from the machine shop. Pretty





For those that didnt see how its assembled



This should still take a stock LS1 crank bolt and be able to be pinned just like a normal balancer. Ive read horror stories of people spinning pulleys with a 6 rib. I *know* the 10 rib will spin if not attended to

Trying to line up a LQ4 next... it never ends

 

Nice!

 

I'm glad it never ends, its an awesome read.

 

Got another motor to tinker with

Cheap engine stands are difficult to get perfectly level but I got it. Must have switched the camera to blurry mode though


How much room Ive got to work with for the outlet. Filler neck's gotta go!


Rear brace fabbed, tack welds and an old pushrod brace. It true to the world


Not bad for a few hours of work in the freezing cold

 

Ugh! Is that ANOTHER LSX???? How much did you pay for that?? Sell it to meeee

 

Nice job keep up the good work!

 

Another 50,000 mile LM7

Perfect for cheap boost. Buy my Firebird, it comes with a blown LSx already installed

 

That si why i am turbo charging a 08 5.3, if i destroy it by throwing too much, i just go spend a little bit on a new short or long block.

 

Nice work!

 

Im getting good at this

Mockup in the car fits perfect, not tweaking required


Lots of room in the back, rear brace is easy to get to still


Time to build the outlet collector

 

So how much can you anticipate to gain with this blower over the other one, without touching anything else?

 

The problem is Im changing everything. Only similar part is the fact its a mostly stock 5.3

4L60E to 4L80E
LS1 cam to LS6 cam
Manifolds and Y-pipe to LT headers and duals
36 to 60lb injectors
Single walbro 255 intank to dual
Returnless to boost referenced return style fuel system
2.73 open 10 bolt to 3.73 posi 8.8

Atleast thats the plan. And just for numbers sake, Id love to hit the magic 500 but like the last endeavor, we shall see

 

I'd say that numbers well within your grasp. With one hell of a TQ curve.

 

Torque is the fun part

Worked on the outlet collector today and nearly finished but hit a snag. My plate warped really badly. Ill have to cut the front loose and attempt to bend it back. Never seen 1/4" plate warp that badly and Ive put some heat to them. First time for everything though, May be fixable, may have to start over, Ill find out tomorrow

I thought out how the assembly would go before I started fabbing this time and it went smoother. I used geometric shapes as a beginning with simple cardboard filler sections. Took about 4 hours to get this far as opposed to the 2 days for the previous. Im also getting better at welding wierd angles and tight locations so I should have alot less leaks to track down

 

And a surprise twist in the story!!!!!

LS6 cam may be too small now

 

does it ever end!?!?


now you'll need two m122's!!