Yea, those are some clunky M112 cases, I was quoting basic design specs, but then they got different flanges and ribbing for different applications.

Unfortunately I don't have a good picture, but the one that we're using is a Jag or Austin version, which doesn't have the big assembly on the back of it. If you look closely in this picture that my brother shot of me machining a bit off the ribbing on the bottom of the case you can see that this one just has a plain flat flange on the inlet and outlet:

 

works for me

 

Dont know if this one will work but i stumbled on it, thought i would let ya know

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-6-C...Q5fAccessories

 

What kind of power potential would an m112 or simular supercharger have on a deep breathing 355 lt1? You have me thinking.
Thanks,
Kory

 

im more envious of the mill than anything else

 

No kidding right!

 

Had a blast in Piedmont today with some club members

My setup is deadly consistent somehow even on aging 275 street tires. Got 11 passes in was trying so hard for a sub 2.0 60' but just couldnt get it. Best 3:

RT --- 60' --- 330 --- 1/8 --- MPH
.181 - 2.010 - 5.692 - 8.738 - 82.22
.171 - 2.020 - 5.742 - 8.811 - 81.62
.184 - 2.028 - 5.752 - 8.828 - 81.27

My buddy Josh took it for a spin and nearly showed me up

.710 2.032 5.750 8.809 81.94

Not bad for open 2.73s on street tires. I nearly waxed a new LS2 G8 with DRs. Lost by .120 though. Most I could stall it to was 1400. Anything higher would just light it up on the start line. Seems like a solid low-mid 13 sec car

Vids

Vs buddy's turbo Jetta


Again


Vs the G8


Vs buddy's bolt on LT1/T56

 

very cool. what's the elevation at your track?

 

Sweet sounds like some better gears and tires and you will have a pretty damn quick car...

 

It Is ALIVE!!......

Congrats!!...

 

Not sure of the actual alt but the calculated DA was 1836

http://www.dragtimes.com/da-density-...calculator.php

 

Here we go again. Big daddy came in the mail. Nearly brand new M122 off a 2008 GT500

Initial comparison. 22" overall length vs 14" on the M90. Main body width is nearly the same, the lower flange kicks pretty far out on the M122 but the angled nature of my setup should afford some clearance. The M122 is pretty darn heavy though


Surprisingly enough, the outlets are nearly the same. Inlets are night/day



When laid on a flat surface its clear Eaton used much of the same design for its larger blowers. Both have a 3" pulley on currently and are the same height off the level surface. Main case at the front has the same height. The rear is where things get bulky. Hood clearance is a maybe back there

Ive been working on using a separate belt for the blower since my 6 rib slips on my current setup pretty bad. I also want to take the stress of a stronger tensioner off the other accy's not designed to be under such stress. Plus, 10 rib pulleys get expensive. I picked up a universal 10 rib crank pulley and started playing around with ideas. I flat out cant use it with any of the stock LSx balancers so I decided to try a LT1 balancer with a custom hub. So far Ive got this



Im fighting space though. If I mount it the traditional form the pulley is about 8" away from the last crank main and risks fracturing the crank. Its also going to require rethinking the radiator placement because the blower snout would have to be pushed forward about 2". As one final fail it doesnt fit inside the inner ring of the LT1 balancer. Id have to cut about .050" off the diameter of one of them or use a spacer pushing it out even further

 

Basic overview of the old setup


And it's in there. Basic fitment looks promising


Two problem areas with the vacuum fittings from the Shelby. Nothing my vicegrips cant handle


Much better. The old bracket and rear brace are holding it in the same plane as the M90 so its a good estimate of where it will lay in the final run


Eyeballing belt alignment forward of the old 6 rib pulley. The blower flange holes may prove tricky. The one on the left most of the pic is impossible to get to without windowing the strut tower


One small issue, blue is the main support plate bolted to the cyl head. Green is approx the front edge of the outlet. Ill have to space the main bracket off the cyl head with some precision spacers


Surprisingly the only hood contact area is on the pulley itself. This wont be hard to solve. The contact is in a support rib for the hood. No biggie for the cutoff wheel. I also plan on running a 2.60 pulley which will give an additional .2" of hood clearance beyond the current pulley. I do plan on using a snubber to prevent the hood from pressing down with highway speed downforce for extra insurance. Ive never had an issue with a belt contacting anything previously and Id really love to avoid chewing the expensive 10 rib belt


Now its time to source more steel

 

VERY COOL! I am so excited to see this come together. Keep the pictures coming man!

 

This is so cool!

Are you going to up the stall converter once you finish with the blower? And you probably have said this before, but what is that box sitting right above your a/c delete box?

 

looks like cruise control.

 

Its cruise

The M122 should produce enough torque to annihilate the 4L60E. Instead Im using the 4L80E thats been sitting in my garage the past year. Couldnt give the darn thing away so I might as well (ab)use it. Seriously though, a stall wont help much. I made 320lb/ft right above idle with the M90. Bigger eatons dont change. You crack the throttle its in boost. I would like to find a low stall converter for it though because the stocker is 80lbs

 

I may have missed this befor but why not make a lower manifold for it and bolt it right to the eng in place of the ls1 intake? seems like it would be simple as making or even buying the two flanges for the intake to cyl. heads and boxing them off into one open manifold with a flat top to mount the blower. even if you wanted to use pipe for very short runners to allow a better mounting of the fuel injectors

 

looks really good bro!

 

Thought you were selling this?

 

I am
Replacement 5.3/4L80E are going in once I source another longblock. Im mocking up the new setup now before the drivetrain swap commences. Not like anyone is interested in the dropout

I could fab up a new intake tub like magnacharger builds but then Id have to run some sort of ATW IC sandwiched under the SC. Kinda kills the headunit upgrade thing I had going here
Besides, I dont have a TIG machine so the intake would have to be mild steel

Im really digging the integrated BPV setup on this vs the external method on the M90. Im all for having less junk cluttering the bay when Im tinkering

 

I dont blame you for not wanting one out of mild steel I just was thinking after the brackets and such out of steel and the pipes it woulnt weight much more if any.. at least the way I have it in my head

nice build none the less

 

if you do use the 4l80 and have it built you will wonder why you didnt do it in the first place. when i went to a 80e in my 2002 silvy instead of the 60e i was really amazed. all the shifts felt great instead of a good 1-2 and them lighter 2-3 and 3-4. and the 80e has a taller first gear. just remember. it takes around 22hp to run a 60e and around 45 to run an 80e. i bumped the nitrous and never looked back.

 

This is awesome man,cant wait to see the fab'n begin...

 

Got a large plate so fab work will begin shortly. Got the missing critical dim for the balancer hub so those drawings got submitted to be machined. New pulley setup will add 7.5lbs of rotating mass to the front over a stock Fbody balancer. Such is the price for 6 rib drive and 10 rib SC pulley

Heres how I accurately measure large parts. Take a sheet of paper, dirty hands and rub the edges. Its a transfer tracing thats quick and easy to reproduce. Much easier to use a scale to measure the sheet than reverse engineer the whole blower with some calipers


Remove and outline the important parts with something easier to see


Cut out and test fit on the part. Marked the important areas like alignment dowels


Plan is to split a tube in half and weld it to the bottom connecting the outlet port and the BPV port together. When the BPV opens, the pressurized air is bleed off through the BPV. Outlet port is left large to reduce the weight of the plate and leave room for a possible case porting in the future. I may end up cutting it larger and just connecting the ports together. Might compromise the strength too much though. Ill have to think it over

Ill get my skill saw from dad tomorrow and cut up some plywood plates. That'll show how much offset the outlet will require to clear the valve cover

My M122 didnt come with the BPV actuator, the PO needed it when he upgraded. Ford wants $275 for a new one and requires proof of ownership of the GT500 for pretty much any Shelby specific part like it. I said F-that and went about fabbing a low buck alternative. I found one from a 93 Bonneville 3.8/M62 for a whole $5. Damned thing bolted right on like it was made to go there, Eaton must have reused the design. Ill have to clean it up some because its pretty nasty compared to the 2,000 mile blower

Info how a BPV works. Im hooking the upper port to the manifold and leaving the lower port open. I would cap it but testing it with my finger, the motion seemed sluggish with it capped and fluid open
http://www.superchargerperformance.c...ed-application

Ive been doing some homework to build a fuel system to support this thing. Ill be running a twin in-tank setup off a hobbs switch. Ill be sourcing a new gas tank to weld additional baffles in. My current tank isnt enough because I can starve my current setup at 1/4 tank on pretty much any curve. I hate coasting the curves in a car built to handle. 5psi isnt enough to make much different, but there is likely still detonation. At 15-17psi, starving fuel is instant boat anchor engine


I ordered some 42lb injectors but after running the expected power through more than one online calculator, I dont think they'll be enough. I posted them back up FS and am hunting 60's

The fuel lines will have to be upgraded as well because the system is going from returnless back to return using a boost referenced FPR. Ill have a diagram for that shortly. Too many truck guys have complained of excessive pressure drops during boost when fuel is most critical using a returnless system

My next trip to the JY Ill start measuring axle lengths to begin fab work fitting a Ford 8.8 into a 3rd gen. Tube length is the defining factor for me, I plan to grab a 3.73 from the JY, weld the brackets on, fab a torque arm mount centered around the snout similar to customblackbird's conversion, then bolt on my LS1 rear brakes. Id like to do away with the wheel spacers or find an axle assembly to reuse my current 2" directly. One thing I cant get around is redrilling the axle flange pattern from the ford 4.5 on 5 to GM 4.75 on 5. A drill press will take care of that, Im much too cheap to buy aftermarket axles for a JY rear end

 

Pocket
How big is the m122 compared to the stock ls1 intake? You have me thinking about one on top of the 6 liter going into my 95 s10. I would make a tub and mount it like a stock maggie.
As far as the 8.8 goes. Would the housing from a crown vic be wide enough for your needs? Also the easy way to redrill the axles is borrow someones universal 5 lug weld draglight. bolt it up using the ford holes and use it to carefully drill or atleast center punch the gm bolt pattern.
Thanks for the info.
Kory
btw what should I expect to pay for an m122?

 

If you built a custom lower manifold tub it should fit. Belt alignment, injector/runner alignment, sandwich IC fitment, hood clearance etc I have no idea on

No idea on the crown vic axle length either, but most people tend to use them. Ill measure it for myself and decide. Yard is full of Ford cars/trucks. Ill be using a LS1 rear rotor hat to drill the flange holes. That'll be the easiest part of the conversion. Building the jig to transfer the exact location/angle of the TA mount is what'll be hardest. I plan on running a stock TA with a plate welded to the back to box it and increase rigidity without completely ignoring the dampening effect the floppy stocker has. It'll also be a good place to weld DS loops on. The down side it it's in no way adjustable so the pinion angle must be exact

Used take off GT500 blowers usually sell for $450-600. Skip the dreamers wanting $1000+ for one. I got mine for $475 shipped with 2,000 miles on it. Guy got a "Snake Bite" kit, whatever that means

 

The ls1 rear brakes work great on an 8.8. I have that setup on my Iroc. I did the sandwitch torque arm adapter with a stock torque arm as well. It has been working fine for about 4 years now. I will be redoing the torque arm bracket and building an adjustible torque arm in the spring. I'm adding a vortech s-trim to my car and should be boosting the rwp by at least 100. Call it preventative maintenance.
Kory

 

Hell yes,for progress..

I cant wait to see how the outlet turns out..

 

I thought you said a stock baffled tank was best? Works out real well if you are starving your tank at 1/4 tank and under compared to a fuel bucket system

 

You're almost as bad as Atilla, go poop in another thread

 

One day you need to form a compilation and get it stickied, this thread is full of win. I love it.

 

Excellent thread. Best idea ever. I too have had similar ambitions but just don't have the coin for it, not just for parts but the tools to accomplish them.

And I don't know where you find these gold mines for junk yards but I'm moving to NC

 

Yeah, really? I am THAT BAD? Because I go aroud shitting on a LOT of threads.


You talk smack in a thread and I mention one thing where you contradict yourself, yeah Bad as Atilla

 

i have the steeda pulley puller for that blower i used to swap those pulleys often when i was a tech at ford pm me if u want it

 

gt almost 500 sc

 

Pocket if you ever get bored of that set up, you should put another charger on the drivers side. I am sure you will be make a lot of power as it is though. Looks real nice!!!

 

How much you want to rent it? Ill send it back, just want to swap the 3" for a 2.6 once I track one down

I might just put another M122 on the twin car along with a cobra M112. That should break some parts for sure

 

You will like it here. NC is the Motorsports Capital of the World!

There was a thread on the Impala SS forum where someone put a Lightning SC on an LT1 Impala. It was nice but he said it was lots of labor and money.

 

lmao thats when you know you went to far

 

Yeah Pocket, how dare you learn things or talk about what you discovered without specifically pointing it out and going back and correcting every post you ever made in every thread he has ever made.

 

I wasnt in this thread that he contradicted himself.


And I never said anything about him learning. I have actually learned some stuff from him but he made some stupid *** comments about the 4th gen plastic tank. He didnt know WTF he is talking about and people take it as gospel because he "helps" people

 

Well, it has not got really interesting for me going with a larger compressor. I cannot wait to start stuffing the 5.3 and turbo parts in my 86 TA and start mocking parts and plumbing all the piping to know where the hell everything will be. Got it in my head, but that doesnt go that far, hoping for a 3.5 inch down pipe.

 

here fixed
You sure seem pissed off about this, I must admit that when helping others I usually have them do it "my" way. Either way I wouldn't mind finding out more about plastic 4th gen tanks myself. Is there a specific thread you or anyone can point me towards that is the most helpful?

 

ugh...sumped tank FTW...get serious about your fuel supply and sump the tank...never an issue ever again...

 

never really understood that... it sort of makes sense for a carb setup without an intank pump, but I don't know why it would be any better than a good intank setup. There are cars making well over 1000hp with intank pump setups, and the limits don't exist because of the intank setup, but because of the size of easily available pumps.

 

Internet was down over the weekend so I did some research, made a mock-up wooden plate and made sure it fit still and the outlet wasnt completely over the valve cover. All good, fit just like the M90. Thinking it over, the axis of rotation for the rotors and pulley are all identical to that of the M90 with the M112, so the bracket angles and basic location are identical. Makes the job of cutting new stuff easy since Ill have a template

It wouldnt be a proper project without a model



Fuel diagram. Not sure on the AFPR I got, so I left the fitting chart open to various common threads


He's upset about the LS1 swap plastic fuel cell swap thread which went over which would be easier and therefor better to use. One of my points was the LS1 owners bitching about the plastic bucket style sender vs 3rd gen baffling. Since I posted starvation issues using a baffled tank obviously my argument in a completely different thread is null and void, therefor Im a tool. Nevermind the fact Im taking curves way too fast when low on fuel with possibly broken baffles that like to catch on my level float sticking the gauge

Time to start the fabbin'

 

Hehe, I hate the 3rd gen tank, mine was trashed, BUT below about 1/4 tank stop and go traffic caused the car to stall more often than not. Plus it rusted, developed a leak, and is harder to remove than the 4th gen tank.

With the 4th gen, I can sling it all over or mash the brakes hard without stalling and losing power steering!

 

Hey Jon, my dad has a dumped 3rd gen tank with AN fittings he isn't using. It came out of his IROC. Pm me if you want it, he will let it go cheap.

 

Aeromotive even has all out race fabricated tanks with an in tank pump and filter integrated into them so this makes sense.

I visited the LS1 tank thread. I wonder if someone could mount an additional pickup through the pressure vent.

I do know that I have considered adding a tank to the back area. I see many 3rdgens have a little hatch that could be used to make it NNHRA legal. Maybe something like this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RCI-2161AB/

and just route the filler to it. I have to warn you that I am building more of a race car than a street car though.