well let me know if i can help in anyway friend.

 

I have a set of 853's. Two intake valves on one head kissed their respective piston. I haven't pulled the valves to look for further damage such as bent valve or distorted guide (doesn't look bent from the way it sits in the seat).

If you only need one head, we may be able to get that to you. Even both heads wouldn't be that bad (not nearly as heavy as iron SBC heads, of which I've shipped two sets to the eastern US in the last few months).

 

Got the new set of heads

100 miles on a fresh valve job my ***, even came with a DIY port job. Seller kindly left that bit out too. Doesnt look terrible, but definitely not a TEA job

I didnt see anything obvious so I think they were worth $150

Cleaned up with the pressure washer. Guy ran some sort of carb on the engine that was WAY too rich


Looks like the casting flash was knocked off, nothing more


Sort of...


Light work


All 16 ports appear to be similar, so I dont think this was the guys first try at this. We'll see. No seats look to have been kissed, never hit water. Hope a club member has some junk valvetrain parts I can use to water test the chambers. It'd be a shame for one of these valves to be warped too since thats the whole issue Im trying to remedy

 

If it aint one thing it's another. Hope it gets back together real quick so ya can head for the tuner's again. I wonder if going over to some 2 inch intake valves would be an extra benifet since your already apart?

 

I thought about sending ya my 5.3 heads I have laying around along with my lt1 harness for trade of your service, but that would have still be expensive shipping wise.

 

I thought about doing the same thing like TransAmThunder stated. I have a 5.3 truck harness I modified, but needs checked. I have a pair of heads off my 2000 LS1 Trans am (aluminum heads, patriot gold springs), and a pair of cast iron 6.0L heads. shoot me a email at jcleaver001@gmail.com if you have any interest in making some kind of trade.

 

My first LSx head swap went pretty smoothly overall. I helped a friend rebuild his Fieros so he wanted to tag along

Torn down. Im so used to the massive torque from SBC heads. Those TTY bolts felt pretty weak. None the less, I bought a 36" breaker bar at autofair and made short work of them



Set with the fresh head gaskets. Did you know GM doesnt offer gasket kits or bolt kits anymore? Only individual pieces. Summit fixed me right up with new kits. Also, there is no specific 4.8/5.3 head gaskets. They use the 5.7 pieces, but the bore is only 3mm smaller so it really wont do much. Initial torque on the bolts is 22lb/ft, then 90* then 90* more (except the two shorts, they get 50*). The magic marker trick worked wonders


All done and back to the dyno. All the hiccups were from the heads being used. A spark plug thread was buggered and a rocker hole stripped. New helicoil and it took the torque as it should

 

I know I'm not alone when I say I can't wait to here some numbers!

 

Glad to see you have it back together. Hope it gets good dyno numbers.

(paint the m90 black)

 

Or paint it black, and sand the paint off the tips of the fins.

 

273hp/320tq

I ran out of blower

Built 5psi down low but slowly dropped to 1psi up top. Guess that means I need to upgrade



The torque is instant and stays hard all the way up. Fun little setup... for now

 

320ftlbs at the wheels all the way through the band with table top like torque curve is AWESOME!!! that's very impressive!

 

not as much power as i would have expected? O.o

 

Is the blower limiting the revs right now? Because 5,600RPM or whatever you were at, isn't very high. The torque curve looks awesome though, I'm just wondering if a different pulley or something would allow you to rap it out a little higher, the HP curve kept climbing and climbing but then you let out at 5,600 or so.

And the A/F looks awesome from 3,000 +.

 

Its got the stock rod bolts so Im not revving to the moon. Limiter is set at 5600 to account for converter flash and the stock Tbird pulley gives the perfect drive ratio to redline the blower at 5650. Close enough, past redline, Eatons flow becomes static and delta T* increases exponentially so I wont really gain much over spinning it with a smaller pulley. Best I can do is upgrade the huffer

60hp over a stock 5.3 from a $250 blower kit is pretty good I think. Trucks usually knock back 210-220 RWHP bone stock. Figuring 20% loss through the auto Im around 340hp at the flexplate which is right in line with the Maggy M90 kits, only at 10% of the cost

 

Ya I totally agree with you there. Nothing like cheap power.

 

Like I said in my first comment:

 

True, but no one aside from you has ever posted anything good happening from over spinning a M90 so I set the blower redline inline with the engine redline

 

I applaud you enginuity, that is a cool setup. The numbers are cool too.

Please do not take what I am about to say as anytype of second guessing or criticism. I really am impressed with your work.

Me and my buddies have been having pretty good luck camming the 5.3L engines and getting mid to upper 300s hp at the wheels. These are all going in old farm trucks though, but it has been fun.

I will also note that a decent cam setup with springs roller rockers and what not, is about double what you spent on the blower. You may be able to find an LS6 cam and some springs for around that, but it will probably land you about were you are right now maybe a little higher.

Just a suggestion. Not saying what you did has no merrit, it is like 6 of one and half a dozen of the other.

 

Pocket, what you have assembled is very impressive. There are plenty of 5.3L pickups with lots of expensive bolt ons that would be jealous of your RWHP number.

That said..

What 83 Crossfire TA is saying is not risky. The different pullied 3.8L's I have seen have lived very long happy lives and make 300-325 wheel hp. There is no reason I know of that you shouldn't be able to grind out closer to 300 RWHP with a pulley.

As far as your rod bolts, even making 500-600 flywheel hp with a 5.3L truck engine is not a risk to longevity.


To get really crazy, if you could add a second blower on the drivers side things could really get out of control. Considering your fabrication skills, I am very surprised a set of rearranged exhaust manifolds feeding into a single used diesel truck turbo has not found its way into your engine compartment. That would put you into some serious (but still safe) hp. You definitely seem crafty/resourceful enough to get it done compared to some others that have done it.

 

Dude, that thing is bad.

 

All I can say is Awesome Post!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ok, now you have really got me thinking. What if a guy just happened to have access to a low mile blower off of a GT500? Would it be possible to do the same kind of set-up. It is a side or rear intake as well but could you do the same thing with the bigger eaton? I think that this could be a kick *** set up but run it thru a fmic?

 

The lightning blower would be a lot more common larger blower, but you aren't picking them or any other larger one at the wrecking yard or ebay cheap.

 

the m112 is a good blower, ive seen cars get 600whp easy with the stock eaton. its all possible. i was thinking of doing a kennebell set up like this.

even the older set ups on the roush mustangs came with a m90, and they were ok ,

 

heh... the pic is 2 nights ago at my brother's house... finally working out the bracket's/geometry for the Jag M112... I have a killer idea for putting the M90 on an SBC, I may put it on my TA for a while just to have some fun. Definitely easier to do than plumbing a turbo...

I've never heard of anyone blowing one up by overspinning it, have you?

Spin it faster = Car goes faster...

 

So, it is sucking more than it can blow out, sweet, LOL.

 

Pretty sick set up but I was hoping it would peak at 400ish. Wouldn't a used cam(LS6 Z06 cam or off the shelf 224) have produced better numbers for a comparable price? Either way, i think the instant torque and whine makes it worth it!!!!


P.S. Post video of the charger spooling

 

Yea, but that's just the thing... the power curve is absolutely different, you have very close to peak torque at any RPM as long as you have your foot in it. There is no waiting for power to build like NA with a big cam or a centrifugal blower or to spool like a turbo.

 

I have access to the stock blower off of a gt500 for cheap. I think it is the m122. Could I bolt it up like you guys are? I would have to make a plate for the bottom with a charge tube. Then I would have to build a flange for the intake of the s/c. Like it has been said before I think this would be a lot easier than fabbing up the front mount t-76 system that I have been thinking about. I just need to mock it up to see if I can get the bigger s/c under the hood without a problem. Glad I have a spare hood just in case I have to cut it up. I have been looking for a cheap s/c setup for a while. while I would like to find a manifold to fit this on my LM7 I just don't think there is one made. Apperently they are now putting this blower on the holdens, but it is a front discharge out to a inter-cooler. I think this would fit under the hood's of our cars with an ls1 in them. I am going to try it. I just hope it looks like this when its done!

 

Thats what Im looking at to replace this unit. They're MP112's if the SVT forums are to be trusted. Magnuson has several 112 kits for LSx engines, but they love a pulley mod just like any blower

Just guessing by pictures, the 112 is wider so fitting it between the strut tower and valve cover will be tricky. The incorporated bypass valve is handy too, but the charge flange will need to be even longer. Unfortunately the mounting flange will also have to be the blower hat so sealing it up wont be as easy as the M90. Ill see what I can do

 

I know the 03-04 cobra's have the m112, but the 07-09 GT500's have a m122 on them. Is this the same blower with just different ends on it? Could be? I have no idea. I think your correct on the placement it could be an issue. I with proper machining you could make a plenum out of a piece of billet aluminum, I have some machinist buddies that would like nothing more than build stuff like this.

 

Makes for better reading when you use creativity to retain "budget" I say make it a double. I've seen a double on here somewhere but it was a l98. Good read!

 

Its either my frankein-motor or SATURN5's junkyard 305 TPI. One other guy had a documented single setup on his 305 and lots of jabber about it

 

can you port an M90? I bet you have a few of them lying around that you could fool around with.

 

they can be; big thing in the GTP area. inlet can use some porting and smoothing (a lot of guys were using N* TB's to get in bigger air) and the outlet can be cleaned up a bit. ZZ Performance, W Body Store is one company that comes to mind for those goodies

 

1ADan, do you think it would be worthwhile for him to port the blower?

 

I am still thinkin of doing this on my carb 350/416 305 heads, ported polished with 194'150's i found a eaton for 200$ on the car is pushes 11 psi, i think i would be happy to see 4-6psi.


have u checked ur bov for leaks? ive seen a few ebay versions not hold over 3psi. porting the supercharger will help build boost and sustain it. i think u could get a smaller pulley and still be safe with the m90, ive seen people run the biggest crank pulley and smallest supercharger pulley and no problems.



the fmic is causing u to lose some boost, could run it direct, or even use nitrous as a intake cooler or water/meth.



how does the the bov sound?

 

It's an awesome project. I'm a little distraught about the numbers too. I was expecting a bit more ponies. The torque is there though. That curve...er.. plateau is impressive. Is this with any sort of tuning?

I guess it's been awhile since I saw my own dyno graph but is this significantly more torque/hp under the curve than normal?

 

Port/pulley may be worthwhile, but that would require a new tune. For that Id skip the M90 and use a M122 for some real power, several builds on 'tech use it with excellent results

Skip the $200 eaton, this one set me back $90 and the other $120. They're not gold plated

My bypass valve is not leaking, nor is any of my tubes/couplers. BPV is the porsche unit, I ordered a billet alum version as well and just use cause I like it more. I have a 2.55 drive ratio. Stock crank is 7.9" (largest available) and a 3.1" sc pulley (stock T-bird by chance). Going by the eaton flow charts, this is right where the blower should be

As little boost as Im running, the FMIC wont eat much pressure
Using meth/water to cool it instead of an intercooler would defeat the point of the car being a DD

BPV sounds like a sand blaster, esp on decel. Moderate whoosh when I left off, but mostly a sandblaster after. Subaru guy snapped his head around real quick. He goosed his and it blew off, so I goosed mine and it was louder, way louder

 

when will the upgrade happen?

 

Pics on first page are gone

 

As soon as I can get my hands on one. Missed the bid on a $350 unit, then second hit $450

My account maxed out so i deleted all the less than useful pics. Build thread pics are all in there still

 

i still want to do it, its a cool thing u never see around. i have had tons of chances to get the m112 but i think that much boost might be to much for a blow though carb set up. i would be happy to see 5psi.

 

so when do i get my kit?

 

Once I get a M122, this one's all yours

 

I've never seen a positive displacement blower with blow through carb. I wonder how difficult the low speed tuning will be....

 

i really dont see a problem, its basically like running a blow though carb vortech. its still putting pressure just not much

 

I haven't set the 2 next to each other to compare but I'm pretty sure that they use the same diameter rotor pack, the 112 is just longer.

The actual case ends up the same width, the M112 is actually shorter in height (If I remember right it's something like 3mm, it's just a difference in the ribs cast into the case, of course I partially machined down the ones on my brother's anyway, so there is some room to make them smaller in that dimension) but longer front to back.

 

The inlet is where all the gains are. The inlet can basically be opened up till you run out of aluminum in the back of the case to support the bearings, and you'll gain flow from it. My brother and I cut aluminum out of the back of his M90 case for hours...

There isn't really anything to be gained on the outlet side. Messing with the stock setup makes it noisier (the slots and the shape is there to keep sound down) but doesn't increase flow.

BTW, my brother started his M112 setup the other day... still needs to work out the throttle linkage and he wants me to machine down some polylocks to make more room to lower the valve cover some more... I don't think his current setup will make any more power than the M90 made.

 

M90 and M112 use the same diameter rotors. GTP guys have been getting marginal gains using M112 rotors in their M90 case with a machined spacer for quite a while. Guessing from the pics, M122's likely have the same dia rotors as well

My fitment issues would be from the case mounting tabs

M90 is very compact using 3 mounting holes. The two outers are within a few mm of flush with the heat sinks


M112, very complex outer flange for mounting to the ford intake. Most of the rear length is the inlet and bypass. Since the outlet is separate from the mounting flange, some intrusive flange tabs can be ground off and still seal properly. Using the outlet triangle as a gauge, the flange appears to be lower than on the M90. It'd stand to reason this case is a good bit taller overall


M122, similar size to the M112 with less wasted space in the rear. It'd be hard to machine those mounts off for extra clearance in the tight engine bay because they are how the outlet seals to the collector hat. The outlet triangle is roughly the same distance from the flange as the M90, so the height should be similar


I'll figure something out. Trimming the hood support, grinding the tabs off the valve cover and possibly cutting holes in the strut tower most likely

Id agree with you, the flow is gained on the inlet side. Looking at the various changes Eaton made to the cases, the inlet always got bigger. This swap uses the smallest version on the left. I could probably pick up some serious gains simply switching to the MPX case and leaving everything else alone



Heres the mondo inlet of a Ford GT M112 vs Cobra M112


Vs Lightning M112