$750 L98

Well I have a cracked oil pan on my LQ9, does anyone know how hard it is to remove in a 3rd gen? I may be stuck at work with it, leaking oil all over the place...I never should have paid some one to do the LSx swap lol

If it's the "lift the motor 8" and wiggle it out" scenario, I am just going to pull the entire motor/trans.

KNBlazer

I have no clue, but put, " one vote for pulling the engine out" ... ...

KNBlazer

also if you haven't already, post this in the general forum, you'll get more hits there...

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

gonna say pull it too. these pans tend to hug pretty close to the k-member and access is going to be a bit limited. if you can even get the pan loose, you'll probably be fighting with the pickup tube.

unless you happen to have a tubular k-member, which in that case you can ignore me

$750 L98

Stock K-memeber, with a LQ9/4L60E, I think I am just going to work on unbolting everything and pull the motor alone. Question is, Should I just pull the motor through the top, or drop the whole K-member?

If I pull the motor out it will get Heads, possibly a cam, ARP rod bolts/head studs, and the K member modded for AC....

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

~$50 or so from Harbo Freight.







Just another option for ya.

J.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

I used one of those when I had to change my leaking oil pan gasket. Works great.

$750 L98

whut the....witch craft! Not a bad idea. I may do that, My main reasoning for just removing it is because the guy that did the install is about as skilled as an ape with a crow bar.

List:
The wiring harness is twisted on itself
He used 3 posts on the batter instead of 2
AC stuff seems to have been caught/burnt in the process
He used a live ignition wire with no relay to power the pump
Fans are hardwired to ingition on
ECU has no control over fans
LS1 valley cover used with LS6 valve covers
Fuel lines aren't what I consider proper...

So I might as well DD the C4 and add in:
BMR k member
Steering brace
ARP rod bolts
LS6 valley cover
Check/replace cam
A arms
LS1 Brakes
Etc.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Those Harbor Freight bars are good for pulling the K-member & just the pan. But if our gonna pull the engine, drop it out the bottom if you have access to a lift (which you do).

At home the engine up out the top is easiest, but the nose can get in the way of lifts reaching the engine.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

That the reason I do all my own work.....

Shift06

Heh yeah I know, I always have had to lift my engine out from the side on the car when I pull a motor. Even then the cherry picker is very close to the fender.

$750 L98

I wish I had a lift lol, just going to pull the hood/fenders and get the motor from the side with a hoist. Or if I do the K member, I'll drop the whole assembly with the motor on it, then roll it out from under the car.

I think working out of the garage it may end up being easier to hoist the motor, then drop the K-member unloaded and replace it with the BMR piece. I just hope I don't find any more damage.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Pull the engine. I replaced the oil pump with it in the car and it was a massive PITA. Only had to drop the pan 1" and had major trouble

Multiple issues is a good reason to pull it and do it right

Most youll need to pull is the hood, possibly the nose depending on how long the cherry picker arm is. Firebird noses are kinda long

$750 L98

Sounds good, moving around the in the garage is going to be a large lesson in creative thinking, but I want to do this myself, and I want it done right. Currently I consider the car out of commission for a long time with no quick fix...

It sucks, that car was my DD since high school, about 4 years now, unless the motor blew, it was being driven.

I suppose now is the time to reward her for the service and taking care of me in some crazy situations - but you can't count on anyone else to do it right, I know that much now.

It is definitely getting a full tubular front end, along with possibly a new cam, P&P milled 317 heads, Hawk's LT headers or other similar header, 4th gen AC, reworked factory 3rd gen harness, 4th gen rear, new wheels, SFC, lowering kit, new shocks/struts, re-painted and prepped engine bay.

Basically the entire mechanical portion of the car will be retouched. I will also do my own body work in the mean time while waiting on funds/parts. I have a question about that actually, does anyone know if a ARC welder can be used as a stud welder. I am told that I could as long as I use it on the low setting.

If that's the case, I can probably roll this car out of the garage looking new when it's done, I also scored a 60 gallon compressor from my aunt, it needs work but is definitely serviceable.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

I did that every single day at work & didn't even has a gas welder period.

I was welding stud on to aluminum daily, but that would require a much lower heat.

$750 L98

Perfect, thanks for the reply Stephen, I just wanted to make sure. I mean both machines seemed to operate similarly and they even make a replacement head for ARC welders labled as a stud welder clamp lol - mine already looked kinda like it, so i'll give it a whirl.

Worst I can do is have to admit to myself that I should just take it to a body shop. We always used screw type studs at the body shop I worked for but I don't like putting holes in metal that just have to be welded/filled later...

3.1EyeCandy

iTrader: (3)

Wowzers bud. Mine is up in the air right now with the k-member removed with a similar brace from STC. I'm putting in a Spohn K-member and A-arms. There is definitely lots of room to get to the oil pan with the k-member removed.

Between the two of us, we have a mountain of evidence for why those that know don't use ARD...

$750 L98

No kidding it's been about 2 years or so since I finally got my car back and I am still dealing with issues from ARD. Figure I better pull the motor and deal with the rest of the issues before they become catastrophic. I was lucky as it is that the oil all over the place didn't cause me or some one else lose control on the road, or set my car on fire.

The things they did to this car could easily have killed me or some one else, I just can't understand why anyone would do this to a customer.

Anyway, what are you dealing with on your car now? We need to start a group therapy session with ex-customers lol, we can help each other repair common problems they cause LOL

$750 L98

Update:
Some good news at least. It turns out my car does actually have an aftermarket cam, Comp R's, 921 Springs, and it is a LQ9 with flat tops.





The bad obviously as you can see is that the pushrods are stock, running a XER281HR - that cannot be good for power. The harness is also mangled beyond belief. I am going to spend a good long few weeks putting it back together and organizings it so that it's good for a long while to come.

I will mostly be waiting on getting a k-member, I am going to attempt to weld my oil pan back together, and if I fail I'll get a new one ordered up. If there is any money left after all this I will be having the heads ported and polished as well as milled down to about 66-65cc which should get compression to around 11ish.

ShMaCk2004

there is always this method for at home engine removal without a lift
works great on 3rd and 4th gens

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Wow that harness looks like a mess!!!! Even in that pic I can see the hacks! Electrical tape? Probalby nasty splices... yikes.

DEF redo that sucker and clean it up. Pocket's threads are awesome reference for that as Im sure you know. Thats one of the most important parts to having a reliable clean swap...getting that harness cleaned up.

J.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Those aren't flat tops.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

LQ4 and a cam small enough not to bend the stock pushrods. Sounds like you got taken for a ride

Find the person who did the swap and tear them a new one

$750 L98

lol, anyone with a touch of sanity left would agree. I need to stop posting up at 3am and pulling all nighters...

I know why my motor sounds like crap now though, the cam is supposed to be a 232/234 598/595 on a 113+3 - Would that really have destroyed the pushrods? If there is a good amount of doubt I can pull the cam and check the numbers...I wonder if it's just some spare cam they had lying around....

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

It wouldnt hurt to pull the timing cover and check out the cam. Heads are already off, so theres no risk or dropping a lifter

That harness makes me cringe

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

i agree on the harness feelings; that thing is scary. i'd not be happy with whoever "installed" this setup for you

$750 L98

I was tempted to pull the cam but I am a bit afraid of tearing up the cam bearings. I do however know that the cam was large enough that the motor would not idle below 800rpm. We tried to tune it to idle lower thinking I got scammed without a cam, but it doesn't like idling below 950rpm.

I may just leave it to be on the safe side, but because I am stuck with the LQ4 and not a LQ9 I am trading my 317 heads for a set of stage II 241 heads. I know it seems like an illogical swap, but my 317 heads could not be milled enough safely to give me the compression I want.

I am also replacing those stock pushrods with Manley chromoly rods, I was actually surprised how light the stock pushrods are though. I will be reusing the stock rockers, they seem to have done well this far into the abuse life they've had.

The car will also be getting a LS6 valley cover, the entire PCV system was incorrect and likely attributing to some of my oil loss issues. I am going to try and reweld the oil pan myself, and then make a skid plate to go under it to avoid cracking it in the future just in case.

A Sphon K-member will be going in under it, and I will be redoing the entire harness, adding length to some areas, and soldering the entire assembly together and trying to make it appear "factory".

Shift06

Skid plate? Did you smash the pan on a speedbump? I would take the pan to someone with a TIG, unless you have one.

$750 L98

I have a stick and flux/mig, I am going to try a set of weling rods/torch on it though so I don't blow through it. The rods are supposed to be pretty stout compared to the pan.

I think the guy that installed the pan cracked it, as I've always had a oil loss problem, but I bottomed out a while back and it seemed to get worse, now I can visually see the crack.

Shift06

Good luck welding aluminum with a stick or a flux cored mig.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Take it to a welding shop and have it properly repaired before a $200 pan gets destroyed

$750 L98

I am using a aluminum rod and torch, will that really destroy the pan? I know they are fragile but how can you weld it with any less heat? I don't have the cash or know of a shop I trust to weld this thing up. Not to mention unforseen expenses kind of tighten the budget.

ShMaCk2004

I assume you were talking about my post. haha dont worry its all nice and cleaned up now

$750 L98

I think he meant mine in post #19, your's looks good lol, check the pic in #19 there are splices and tape and crap everywhere! Can't believe my harness was done that way.

$750 L98

http://durafix-for-aluminum.com/

That is what I plan to use on the pan, it looks like it will be sufficient for it, I've seen it used a couple of times, is that not a "proper" way to weld aluminum?

$750 L98

I noticed something else, people are teaching themselves to weld/braze by using scrap aluminum cans. I think I practice and keep from melting those into puddles I ought to be good eh?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Try it on an old bracket or intake first

$750 L98

Will do, I've got a few junk parts around. I am sorry if I seem stubborn but I'll never get the chance to learn if I don't start some where lol. I have plenty of time while I am waiting on parts, so I will start practicing and then give the oil pan a try. I mostly just want to be self sufficient and learn to repair my own things, too many shops have made a large dime off my suffering lol

Things like the bottom end or machining I obviously outsource, but I don't see why I should send out every little piece, anyway I appreciate the advice very much this forum is just about the only thing that helps keep my car alive.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

I suggested a local shop because the job is actually rather simple, but equally easy to ruin. Should be out for under $50

Actually, send Stephen a PM. Hes done a good bit of alum welding in the past and may help with some tricks for cast

$750 L98

Well I pulled more of the car apart. Pass. side head is off and looks clean, I also removed the valley cover and knock sensors to get a better look at things. It does have some sort of aftermarket cam, I think there is a cam core number on it that I can just barely see.

It should be a XER281HR, I'll post a pic of the number later today.

I also inadvertently figured out why my AC would pop fuses at random. The yellow wire going to the resistor pack was frayed and touching the back of the head. I also went a head and did a heater delete, it never gets cold enough down here for a heater, and when it does the headers keep me warm enough. Plus it got rid of a decent amount of clutter on the passenger side.

Hopefully I can wire up a 4th gen AC system and finally have AC again. I will admit AC still confuses me a bit, lots of hidden wiring.

ShMaCk2004

oh duh lol i thought he ment the wires hanging down from the 4th gen in my bick but yea i see it now

3.1EyeCandy

iTrader: (3)

I've got a brake line too close to the oil pan (my fault) and some shoddy stock motor mounts. Replacing the k-member, a-arms and motor mounts - then it's on to the AC. I'm considering selling my AC bracket to fit the stock AC compressor and going the sanderson route. I've heard they're a much better compressor.

If you find a good shop that does tuning, let me know. Mine's not going back to ARD, ever.

$750 L98

I am not sure where to go for tuning in houston, we have some good tuners in austin though. Unfortunately I hear that Owen is tuning cars for other shops around houston, which has given a bad name to some of the shops around there. I hope people wake up soon and realize how big of a scam they are running. I know LMR is supposed to be a good shop with some SERIOUS wheels and good referals, just make sure Owen doesn't get sent out for the tune.