LTX and LSX Putting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.

Running a cracked block

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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 12:26 PM
  #1  
Atilla the Fun's Avatar
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From: Northern Utah
Car: seeking '90.5-'92 'bird hardtop
Engine: several
Transmission: none
Axle/Gears: none
Running a cracked block

I've decided to re-assemble this and run it, see what it'll survive. First, a pic of the location of the pin-hole crack, which I put white-out on:
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 12:27 PM
  #2  
Atilla the Fun's Avatar
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From: Northern Utah
Car: seeking '90.5-'92 'bird hardtop
Engine: several
Transmission: none
Axle/Gears: none
Re: Running a cracked block

And here's a pic of how I found the crack:
Name:  cracked002.jpg
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 01:42 PM
  #3  
Doom86's Avatar
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From: SE, Ohio
Car: '86 Z28, '91 RS
Engine: 305ci, 305ci
Transmission: TH200c (no kidding), TH700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73, 2.73
Re: Running a cracked block

Consider it extra oiling for the cam

Kind of a strange place for a crack
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 02:32 PM
  #4  
Atilla the Fun's Avatar
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From: Northern Utah
Car: seeking '90.5-'92 'bird hardtop
Engine: several
Transmission: none
Axle/Gears: none
Re: Running a cracked block

This is what happens with blind holes when you tighten the bolt, not realizing there's oil or water already in there. The results are usually far worse than this, especially with aluminum blocks. I've seen an aluminum LS1 block split wide open. That was from the second-to-rear, outer row head bolt on the driver side.
Still, I'm gonna clean it, machine it, re-clean it, JBWeld it, and then assemble it.
My testing procedure requires good hearing, this one didn't sound much different from the others. I wasn't sure, so I took a break, then came back to it. I had my pressure regulator set to exactly 100 psi. Be sure to do your listening when your compressor isn't running.
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