Service manual and a friend with an untouched car

 

The alarm system and what I've shown is about as far as the damage goes, I just wanna do some learning.

Will the Haynes manual suffice or would I be better off with a "shop service repair manual"?

 

Helm, GM service manual or AllData

I will warn you, with the dash harness, not even the service manual has all the info. Tons of stuff not included. Thats why I hate working with them. I did a test once, took an unmolested 90 firebird dash harness and cut each circuit out, one at a time. After I ran out of diagrams, half the harness was still there, almost entirely made of redundant pnk/orn fuse wires

 

Thanks for mentioning that Pocket I didn't expect Alldata to have any of that, as they usually let me down. But there is a surprising amount of information on this. Thank god, saves me $100

 

The guy that will be tuning my car is one of the best lsx tuners(maybe in the midwest?) And he told me to just leave the MAF out of the equation, so its up for sale in the LSx classified.

 

Scrapped the heater box idea. Didn't like my prototype, and you cant really get any better than the OEM one.

 

Got the dash all put back together but had a couple loose ends. I removed the VATS module and starter relay, cruise module, and the VSS buffer box. I know all of this wasn't necessary but I've got a 5 pound bag of useless wires, connectors and boxes that says otherwise. Well, and peace of mind.

1 of 2 I know its the cable for the shifter button but where is it supposed to attach?
Firebird003-3.jpg?t=1300331658
2 of 2 I know this wire was connected when I took everything apart but I cant for the life of me figure out where its connector went(or what its for)
Firebird002-4.jpg?t=1300331658
I absolutely LOVE this thing. Best $12 ever spent on a tool truck, it has made soldering all that much easier and it paid for itself in this instance.
Firebird001-5.jpg?t=1300332058

 

Not sure what that first one hooks up to but I can show you what the connector looks like for the second pic. If that wire comes out the steering column it should look like this:

 

Hmm....I wanna say that looks like it plugs into the cruise harness. But I'll have to wait till tomorrow to find out.

 

Yeah that is cruise

 

1/2 goes up on the column somewhere around the IGN switch. I cant remember where exactly because I toss them out shortly after purchasing the cars

2/2 is cruise, you've got more good pics of it above the IGN switch in the second post

 

Decided to do a U-joint steering shaft and I couldn't be happier with it. It came off of a 1996 Astro van and needed a slight mod but worked excellently. Seen here: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...-steering.html It was a hair lighter also which is always good.

Firebird003-4.jpg?t=1300574289

 

Rounding third and heading for home...Finally got off my butt and went to the parts store for the final purchase(hopefully). Took a molded piece of house wire down to find an upper radiator hose and found one that fits PERFECTLY. I'll get the part number tomorrow since I forgot to write it down, but I just trimmed about an inch off the radiator side so it would sit against it and I'm happy. The lower I think is from a 1989 F-350 7.5L and although I'm not all that happy about the way it fits, but It'll work.
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I got a stock serpentine belt, put it on and to my surprise it was to big! After about 15mins of looking at LS1 accessory drive pictures and belt routings as well as double checking the part number I said, HOLY CRAP! This thing has an under drive pulley on it. Sweet.
Firebird007-2.jpg?t=1301191464

 

Score on the under drive pulley! Man, that upper radiator hose looks awesome. Looks like it was made for that application. Don't forget to give us the information on that hose. I want to use that on mine too. Looks like you are going to have that thing running in no time. ^^

 

may i ask how much bedliner you use to do your underside, and how many coats did you use?

 

I've never seen anyone do that u-joint steering shaft modification. What is the purpose/benefit of doing that?

 

More clearance and less slop

 

I believe it was a one quart can. I went over it once then went back the next day and laid on a second coat, and used up the rest of the can on touch up. I'll probably go back and do the back half when I get a better rear end for it. But I think I would recommend doing a three coat minimum because I think it came out a little bit thin.

Basically just what pocket said. But I need to go back and get the bearing for the lower end of the steering column from the van to replace the bushing that's in mine. Not to mention the fact that it gets rid of alot of ugly.

 

Me neither, glad it was reposted. One more thing to do, while the parts are accessable.

Any reason you went with the Astro van part instead of the Jeep Cherokee route?

 

[/quote]Any reason you went with the Astro van part instead of the Jeep Cherokee route?[/quote]

An astro van was just the first thing I came across at the junk yard
But if you read down that thread someone posted where they used the upper clevis from a 4th gen f-body because it goes through the center of the column shaft rather then the outside. I will probably do this again and incorporate that for piece of mind.

 

Looking sweet! Yeah don't forget to give us the part# for the upper radiator hose, looks to fit perfect there. Is that a 3rd gen radiator shroud your using and ls1 fans?

 

Stock repop radiator and stock 3rd gen dual fans.

Upper Radiator hose: Dayco part #71994

 

I'm going to replace the fusible links on the two main red wires that go to the C100 with in line fuses but what size fuses should I use? Only one of the wires currently has a link on it and I'm not sure whether its a 6 or a 9 but that can't be right?

 

Question for pocket. Where in the scheme of the trans cooler lines did you use the 3/8npt-#6? I bought one and it is MUCH bigger then the threads on my trans housing. Both adapters from my 700r4 fit directly onto the 4L60e but they are much smaller then 3/8. Its to big for the radiator as well.

 

silly question - did you remove the quick connect adapters in the trans casing? should be standard 3/8" line fittings on the case when these come out

 

Thanks for the hose information

 

Yes I did(). But I have a 3/8npt adapter here and its way to big.

 

just checking, that's all. sometimes the little things get missed when you've been staring at a swap like this for so long

 

It's my goof

They take a 1/4"NPT on the trans side. I updated it in the thread I posted but havent had time to modify the diagram

 

Got all my wiring buttoned up and now I'm in a bit of a hole. When I first went to turn the key on all was good, but once I did everything died(only on, not start). Interior lights are very dim and radio does not come on. I couldn't find any blown fuses either.

Everything is together except:
No starter
No HO2 sensors plugged in

Fuel pumped relay clicked like crazy at first but now not at all.

 

Def popped a fuse if the fuel relay was going nuts. I might be easier to pull it back off to track down the issue

 

Nevermind I figured it out. I put a load tester on the old battery and it said RIP. Threw a brand new Interstate in it and she lit up like a Christmas tree.

 

Well I sure put my foot in my mouth that time

 

Monsoon radio - $50
Firebird001-8.jpg?t=1301789070

Ipod adapter- $57

Firebird002-6.jpg?t=1301789070

Burnt wires and a bruised ego - priceless.

Firebird003-5.jpg?t=1301789207


I'd rather not share how I did that, but I can guarantee its a lesson learned.

Smoke coming from an engine bay brings you back to reality in a hurry.

 

What happened??

And is that a 4th gen radio?

 

It involved jumper wires and a thin amount of patience.

Yes its a 4th gen radio. From a 2001 TA to be exact.

 

Just waiting to get the final trans line adapter then she will be ready to rock n' roll. My dad asked if we were going to do the exhaust before I start it and I was like WHAT?! Starting a toy for the first time with the exhaust hooked up? That's sacrilegious.

A couple views of the complete motor minus intake piping.
Firebird001-9.jpg?t=1302055033
Firebird002-7.jpg?t=1302055033

Center piece of the fuel system.
Firebird004-7.jpg?t=1302055219

Words of encouragement from a friend.
Firebird005-4.jpg?t=1302055219

 

Looks sweet! Is that a Lokar throttle cable?

 

Yes.

 

Firebird004-6.jpg?t=1302222708

I was about to try to start it to.
Firebird003-6.jpg?t=1302222708

I used a 45* and a 90* on the trans because there wasn't enough room to put a 45* on the top. And it was VERY difficult to get started because of the way the fitting had to be situated.

I think my dipstick tube was made in China.
Firebird001-10.jpg?t=1302223965

 

^^ I had the return and feed lines mixed up. I realized that about two minutes after talking to the guy on the phone about a replacement.

Oh, and she fired up on the second throw of the key.

I'll try and get video tomorrow. I have alot of "I told you so's" to hand out.

I hope it will meet my 300rwhp mark.

 

It currently has open manifolds and it pegged the sound on my camera, so its much louder than shown.

http://s1222.photobucket.com/albums/...bird001-11.mp4

Couldn't get my video to embed correctly.

No matter how hard you try, it still happens. So the trans gets to be dropped again so I can find out if its patchable or if I'm in the market for another oil pan.
Firebird002-8.jpg?t=1302384823

 

Hey pocket can you post the link to where you wrote up about using a resistor to fix the weak Bird tachometer signal? Mine stays pegged at 0.

20Ft. of -6an line was just enough to do all the fuel lines and the trans lines with about 6 inches left over, and I was being a little excessive.

Its time to buckle down and make this thing road worthy. And I'll make sure the maiden voyage includes a burnout video, I need new tires anyway.

 

Are you sure its a damaged pan not a leaky pan gasket, RMS or rear cover gasket?



I use B19 for IGN, a common 680ohm resistor (5 pack for $1 from Radio Shack) tied into the Tach wire from R10. Be sure you fold the wire before/after the resistor over on itself and bind it to another wire for strength. Resistors are really weak and you dont want it crumbling where you cant see it

Odd on the AN line. I have about 5 feet left over from the original 20

 

I can't be sure what it is but after all the welding I did on the pan I can only assume the worst.

You have 5ft left over even after trans lines?

But thanks for the diagram, I'll give her a shot.

 

Well Hawks crossmember doesn't fit. Sigh. It covers up half of the bolt holes on the passenger side and won't slide back any further because its wedged in between the frame rails. And I cant just wallow out the holes because its not even close to being level and wouldn't fit right.

Oil leak was taken care of with RTV on the backside of the pan gasket.

 

I'm using the 3rd gen main IGN wire (C100 F4) to power my HO2's, is a 10amp fuse going to be sufficient for that? Just read in someones thread that it is not fused and I'm glad I haven't put the HO2's in yet.

 

Try it and see. Stock they're 15A which isnt a huge step up

 

Hopefully I won't need my center console light anytime soon. To power my OBD-II port I tied into the cigarette lighter. The only bad thing is I have to plug my scanner in after the car is started because for some reason it cuts off when I start it?

Firebird003-7.jpg?t=1303861149
Firebird002-10.jpg?t=1303861473
Firebird004-8.jpg?t=1303861496

I still need to paint the metal piece but other than that I like it.

 

Finally got to the exhaust and I'm almost done but I need to finish up the passenger side tomorrow. And its ridiculous that Hawks crossmember was as off as it was.

Hawks crossmember before being welded back together. I tapped the crossmember bolt holes with a 7/16 coarse thread tap and put in new grade 8 bolts and they feel so much better than the old setup.
Picture036.jpg?t=1304042751

A few shots of the semi-complete exhaust:
Picture037.jpg?t=1304043136
Picture038.jpg?t=1304043166
Picture039.jpg?t=1304043166
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The cat-back is an SLP two on the left 3in mandrel. Both primaries off the manifolds are 2 1/2in going into a flowmaster merge.