Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Sure dont! Pull it and send it as-is with whatever gremlins the PO left in there. Ill sort them out for you

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

That's what I kind of figured, but I thought I should at least ask.

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Looking good!
Taking the motor out has been my favorite part of my swap so far.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man! I'm a little anxious about taking my engine out actually. The last engine I took out of a third gen took two solid days. I am dropping this one out of the bottom though. So I think it should be much easier. I won't have to label everything either, so that should speed up the process.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Just a tip to speed things along. Leave everything imaginable attached to the engine when it comes out. Harness, accessories, intake, belt even

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the tip. I'm glad you said that. I was going to remove the harness, but it does make more sense to leave it on there. I had already planned on leaving everything else on there.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

I was just goofing around today and put one of my G8 wheels on the front of my car. It looks odd because the front left was on a jackstand so that I could put the wheel on. I couldn't get the wheel on because the hub sticks out too far. You would need at least a 1.5" wheel spacer to get it on there. I think it might look pretty cool with those on there. What do you guys think? There would be plenty of room for a big brake kit for sure

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Well, I was supposed to go to a car show with a friend this weekend, but decided to work on getting the engine out of my car instead. I made some decent progress. I am just taking it slow since I have never dropped an engine out the bottom before.

Pocket, you said to leave the harness on the engine. Is that the harness that runs over top of the a/c box and into the passenger side fender?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Unhook the C100 and lay it over the engine
Unplug the ECM and C207 then pull them out from behind the fender and lay them over the engine

Drop assembly

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Well, that sounds easy enough. Is the C100 under the master cylinder? Sorry, I'm a newb at all this wiring stuff

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

yep right under the brake booster. There's a 1/4" bolt right in the center of it that you'll need to loosen (it won't come all the way out because it's built into the connector), then you just pull it off the firewall.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

That's what I thought. Thanks Nick.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

I got the computer down from under the dash and disconnected. I'm assuming the C207 is the plug-in beside the yellow box in this pic.

Anyone know what the yellow box is for? ...holy crap my carpet is dirty!

This thing holding the wiring harness in place was being a bugger!

It took some finessing, but I finally got it out.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

One more pic of the harness being pulled out


I didn't think I was going to be able to get that big square thing through this hole, but I got it to work. One step closer...

White'89

iTrader: (8)

That brings back memories of laying upside down in the passenger seat...

HP52TA

iTrader: (4)

Keep up the great pictures and details. You're a couple steps ahead of me and this will be a great reference when I get to installing the computer.

That big block connector can be taken apart and reused for your new wiring. When I rewired my car for the previous carb setup, I heated it with a hot air gun until the whole thing was very hot. It then pulled apart quite easily. There is a locking clip that has to be removed as well.

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

the yellow box has to do with your factory speedo, pretty sure its gotta be bypassed, but memory's a bit rusty

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Yellow box is your buffer. Remove and connect pins C to F

http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport...SS_V8_vinE.jpg

What happens with the old fender grommet is your call. Routing the long way behind the fender you hollow it out. Cutting a hole under the HVAC box for a more hidden install you take the old grommet and plug the hole in the fender leaving the wire stubs intact

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, fun stuff! That was probably the easiest part of my day though.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man! Yeah, I tried for awhile to get it apart, but gave up. I figured there was a trick to it. I didn't think I could get it through the hole in the fender at first. I got it to go through the second time I tried it though. So that made me happy

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Ah, okay. Thanks Dan. They say the memory is the first thing to go when you get old! j/k

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info. Pocket. Good information. I haven't decided which way to go yet though. I usually like trying to keep most stuff stock looking, but I also like hiding wiring as much as possible too. I will have to think about that one.

So swapping pin C over to pin F changes the pulses per mile from 2000 to 4000, correct?

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

HOLY CRAP! I didn't realize I was going to have to do battle with the frickin Harness Monster! I'm not quite sure if I won or lost! Here's a pic of the slayed beast...

Good thing I killed when I did! It was about to devour my engine I had to unbolt my headlight and the crossbracing to to get everything out.

I guess it would have been a bit easier to unbolt all of the body parts up front. Darn that hind sight.

I had my grandpa and my daughter help me take the hood off. It makes it so much easier to get to everything.


I'm assuming there are some ground straps on the back of the heads that connect to the firewall that I will also have to disconnect. I think I got the one on the passenger side. I haven't looked at the driver's side yet.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Oh, and my grandpa said he would help me drop the engine. So that's cool. It's always nice to have an extra pair of hands.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Alright, I think I got everything disconnected and ready to drop. I got a nice ATF bath when I pulled the driveshaft out. That was fun.

I only saw the one ground strap from the engine to the firewall on the passenger side. I thought there was one on both sides on the last T/A engine I pulled, but I could be wrong.

Looks like pretty much all I have left to disconnect is the front suspension, trany crossmember & brake lines. Can I just drop the cat forward exhaust with the engine assy.?

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

I dunno how I missed this post too. You beat me to it! I was hoping to see how mine looked on the TA too, gotta say not bad seeing your photo. Bet you could find some of these 18s for cheap-ish on the G8 boards, since everyone wants the GT/GXP rims. I'd personally LOVE a set of the GXP 20s on the G8, but waaaaay too much coin for a daily driver......

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Not really. You unplug the box, then splice the input to the output so the signal goes strait through from your PCM to the C207 to the speedo

Ahh, a bit too far there. From the firewall booster the C100 splits into two halves. Engine half and light half. The light half isnt touched for the swap is is a monster to remove

One ground strap is all you get. Undo the trans lines at the radiator, coolant lines at the rad, heater core lines at the firewall and rad, front brake lines at the provp valve, trans crossmember, front K-member brace triangles, and 4 of the 6 K-member bolts

Last 2 bolts should be all that remains

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Man, I thought I had figured out that diagram you put on here Pocket. I guess not Man I suck at wiring

Ah CRAP! I didn't even think about that harness. I was just getting into ripping wiring out! Oh well. If I decide to paint my engine bay, at least that wiring will already be removed.

Thanks for reminding me about the triangle braces.

If I am going to switch over to digital cruise control, what should I do with the wire and hose that appears to come through the firewall for the old cruise control unit?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Some connectors are salvaged but the majority goes away

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, it probably would look pretty cool if you had the correct spacers on there and it was sitting on the ground at ride height. I was thinking you might be able to find them at some local junk yards too. I might try that later down the road. Yeah, those GXP 20's are sweet.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Are you talking about for the cruise control?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Yes

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

I spent a bunch of time last night trying to figure out a way to get the coil spring compressor to work on this car. Didn't have much luck though. Is that why you guys use chains instead? I do have an idea that I might explore though.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Ha! My idea for my spring compressor worked. One side is disassembled. Lucky I had an extra nut that was the same size as the threaded rod on the spring compressor.

I put the floor jack under the control arm.

Removed the strut bolts, then lifted the control arm more to compress the spring more. Then I tightened the nut on the spring compressor and ran the rod up higher so that the lower control arm would clear it.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

After I lowered the control arm down, all I had to do was use a pry bar to slide the spring out. No problems at all. It worked like a champ.

All I had to do after that was loosen the nut on the compressor and release all of the springs energy.

Let's hope the other side goes even smoother!

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

Looks like good progress man!

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Yeah man! I plan on dropping the engine out on Saturday.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Does the steering center link need to be removed to drop the engine? It looks like it's going to be in the way.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

I dropped it with the engine because i didnt have a pickle fork. Id assume it has to be taken loose at minimum because it's right under the balancer

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, that's what I thought. I removed it and swung the pitman arm towards the frame. Hopefully that will be enough. I think I have it all ready to drop in the morning. Woo hoo!

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

The engine has been removed! Lots of progress pics to be posted soon. It only took us about two hours to get it out of there. It's definitely a two person job

Pics to follow...

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Ready to get started...

We had to keep the cherry picker hook above the core support so as to not damage the condenser. I also cut open one of the old hoses length-wise and put it over the core support metal so that it didn't get damaged. It worked real good.

hooks are attached to the radiator support under the frame. I can provide a better pic if anyone want to see where exactly the hooks were installed to lift the front end


She's going down captain!

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

slowly, but surely...


...And the ref throws the flag for interference!


Another flag thown for interference?

Once I removed the alternator, it solved my two interference problems and we were able to continue.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

...A little bit closer


And just like that, BOOM, it's out! YAY! We had to remove a few more things to get it out, but we made it work.


Good thing we were able to get it out at this height, because the boom was against the nose of the car We also had to rotate the cherry picker around to the passenger's side of the car to make it easier to get the engine assy. out from underneath the car.

I'm trying to see if Summit will sponsor my swap now

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Here are the extra parts that I needed to remove to get the engine out...

I know it sounds weird, but I also had to remove both dipsticks. It would have been easier to have both control arms removed too since they interferred with the cherry picker legs.

So... I'm thinking I had an oil leak... or five! That's only a fraction of the oil. It was everywhere. So I'm thinking the valve cover gaskets were the culprit.

The cat forward exhaust dropped with the engine with no problem.

Now we're getting somewhere...

I am SOOOOOO glad to have the engine bay looking like that! Can't wait to put the new engine in there. But first... lots of cleaning and painting. I don't think the Gunmetal Grey engine bay looks too bad, but I want to clean it up to see exactly what I'm working with.

HP52TA

iTrader: (4)

Nice job on documenting your removal, I was wondering where guys were hooking up to lift without damaging something. Not a whole lot of height to spare with the cherry picker.

Having an empty engine bay makes a guy feel like he has a fresh piece of canvass ....

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Ah thanks. Yeah. not much room to spare at all.

Yes, that's true. Hopefully I can make a masterpiece

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

After having removed the engine now out the bottom for the first time, I definitely can say that I like doing it that way much better. The engine that I pulled on my other GTA I pulled out the top and hated every minute of it!

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Some more empty engine bay pics...


Here is half of my garage full of engines and transmissions!

What a mess!

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Here is my new engine with the third gen a/c compressor installed (upper left)


And here is where I installed the hook on the passenger's side to lift the front end. We hooked it in the same place on the driver's side. It basically uses the sheet metal to keep the hook in place and pulls up on the bottom of the frame.