When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
Re: Installing One of Pocket's Harnesses... Questions
Originally Posted by Flip 2
You can get a hi-pressure switch mount (and used switch) by getting that section of hard line off a car in a yard. Should make it easier for whoever builds your a/c lines. At least that's the theory I'm working with- LOL- got the parts, but not there yet.
IF you have a 4th gen compressor on your car- do NOT plug the compressor into the harness until the a/c system is operational. As explained to me, the compressor runs in a sleep mode when not in use. So, if you plug it in, you are running it.
Hey thanks for the info. Im sure i wouldve plugged it in had i not known that
Re: Installing One of Pocket's Harnesses... Questions
Originally Posted by BlueZee28
My harness from Pocket has like 6 or so wires that go to the power distribution block. I don't know what all of them do, but I definitely have a lot more than just two.
If you haven't figured it out yet, the two snipped wires for the transmission pictured in the original post will have to be soldered to two of the six wires coming out of the connection on the automatic shifter that was in the car originally. Out of the six wires, two of them are a bigger gauge than the other four. Those two fatties would go to the clutch switch if you want to have a functioning starter disengage for the clutch. If not having this function doesn't bother you like me, you can simply cut those two wires and solder the ends together. I believe I did the same thing for two of the smaller gauge wires, and then the two remaining wires were soldered one to each of those transmission wires pictured in the original post. I'd have to dig through my dozens of PM's from Pocket from 2009 to figure out which two they are, but it would probably be easier and quicker to look at a wiring diagram and figure out which two 3rd gen wires are designated for the reverse lights. It doesn't matter which wire gets soldered onto which wire on your harness, it will complete the circuit either way.
The other two smaller wires (that I soldered together and mentioned above) I believe are for the neutral safety switch, which explains why it's not needed and you can complete the circuit by soldering them together.
I hope this helps!
I do have one question about this. I think I'm pretty set on the clutch switch (found the connector for it on a 95 S-10 at the junkyard today) and the back up lights (wires included in Pocket's harness). I do have a question about the neutral safety switch wiring though. I see above that you said you soldered these two wires together to compete the circuit. In the T56 swap sticky he just left them alone and taped the ends. How can that be?
Re: Installing One of Pocket's Harnesses... Questions
Originally Posted by BlueZee28
Not sure mine are soldered together and have no issues.
Fair enough. If it works it works I guess. It's amazing what you can find at the junkyard if you know what you're looking for. I was able to get the 5-pole power distribution block from an S-10 as well as a 2-pole power distribution box that has a cover. I'm really leaning toward using the box with a cover since it looks a lot better and I really don't have too many wires going to it. I don't know if I've seen too many people using that one though. I did also pick up about 5 wires with fusible links just in case I decide to add those in.
Last edited by V8SC1987; 07-25-2012 at 09:22 PM.
Reason: Reordered
Re: Installing One of Pocket's Harnesses... Questions
Originally Posted by dprest68
Mine has a cover too. I just had it removed in the pic on post #6
Hmmm one of mine looks exactly like that, but it didn't have a cover. Still haven't decided which one I'll use yet. Oh and sorry I haven't posted any updates in my build thread yet. I've been pretty out of it the past two days since I had 4 wisdom teeth removed.
Re: Installing One of Pocket's Harnesses... Questions
You can probably pick up a cover off another S10 in a yard somewhere.
If you look very closely you can see where I have mine mounted just above the battery. I ran all my wiring between the inner fender and the engine bay so it's completely out of sight. Did the same thing with the other side for the headlight harness as well.
Re: Installing One of Pocket's Harnesses... Questions
Originally Posted by dprest68
That's a super cleaning looking engine bay there BZ
You aren't joking. I can only wish mine turns out even close to that. Oh and BlueZee just wanted to let you know I was able to rotate the reservoir fitting on the tick with some channel locks so that's all taken care of.
Re: Installing One of Pocket's Harnesses... Questions
Originally Posted by dprest68
That's a super cleaning looking engine bay there BZ
Odd question, but is the engine harness routed above or under the tick master cylinder? Right now I have the master cylinder mounted, but I'm thinking if it should go under I'll have to unbolt it to run the harness up to the C100.
Re: Installing One of Pocket's Harnesses... Questions
Does anybody know where the intended locations and wire routing for the fuse block and relays on one of Pocket's harnesses with the "relay center hidden under battery tray" option are? Obviously the relays are intended to mounted under the battery tray somehow, but I'm not sure how the wires need to be run for it to get there.
Re: Installing One of Pocket's Harnesses... Questions
I almost went with the Maxi Fuse Block, but I kept the stock wiring from the C100 to the power distribution block. The stock wiring had the fusible links, and they seemed to be in good shape.
When I was a teenager, I ran an unfused wire from the battery to the back of my 1980 Ford Bronco. The wire powered a stereo amp, and it must have rubbed away its insulation somewhere inside the truck. When that wire touched a metal part of the frame, my truck filled with smoke. I was close to my house, so I ran home and got a fire extinguisher and wire cutters. While running, I deduced what had caused the problem. When I got back to the Bronco, it was still filled with smoke. I popped the hood. The amp power wire had melted off all it's insulation, and it was still provided a circuit from the battery to the frame. I cut the wire, and rolled down the windows to get rid of all that smoke. I was lucky that I didn't set fire to the Bronco. A nice black mark ran down the interior carpet where the power wire was routed. I learned the hard way. Put a fuse near the battery to interrupt power should wiring insulation fail.
07-24-2012, 02:37 PM
