Anyone have a recommendation in how to get to the bleeder screw?

I cannot get past the headers to reach the screw.
I have some air in the cyl & am not getting full clutch travel.

Has anyone drilled a hole in the trans tunnel to get to the bleeder?
If so, any dimensions or photos?

Thanks in advance.

 

Do you have a Mity Vac?

 

Yes, but after looking at the bleeder setup, it is above the pressure line.

My guess is you cannot get all the air out without using the bleeder screw.

The pedal feels normal, just not releasing the whole way. My guess is there is just a bubble or 2 left in there.

If the mityvac woks... great, I just had my doubts.

 

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/T56-Re...der,41385.html

 

I've never opened the bleeder valve on mine. However, I didn't open up the slave cylinder during the swap (did disconnect the line from the tranny), so that may have been why the Mity Vac worked for me.

 

Yes, the remote bleeder is something in hindsight that I should have done...
Now I have no desire to take the car apart to install one.

As for the slave cylinder, I installed a new one, so it was full of air.

It partially releases, I would say 75%.

I'll try the Mityvac, but thought about drilling an access hole in the floor & plugging it with a rubber grommet.

 

As far as I know, the remote bleeder is the best way to go because as you've already discovered it's almost impossible to do it alone without one. If the stupid floor wasn't in the way it wouldn't be so bad!

 

I drilled a hole in mine. 2" or so, it sure makes bleeding easy as I can do it all myself. I had a major grief last time around though and couldnt get all the air out without a power bleeder. The previous 5 or 6 times I had no issues I was done in a couple mins but last time... ufff

 

Have any pictures or dimensions from inside the car?

I would hate to guess & miss the correct spot... seeing where it goes is nearly impossible.

 

I had my T56 built by RPM Transmissions (one of the best in the world) and they removed my remote bleeder and put the stock bleeder back in. They didn't explain why, but said the remote bleeders cause more problems bleeding then it is worth and they remove every remote bleeder that comes through the door.

 

I did it by pumping the slave cylinder, but it took about 15 min. A block of wood with a pilot hole in it saved my hand... no homo.

 

weird. Tick Performance (another one of the best in the world, has trans in several of the fastest t56 cars on the planet) builds and recommends nothing but their remote bleeder. i have it on my car and it works flawlessly. i also have their adjustable master, which is also a nice piece.