Warnd

Alright so I have a small update to post and unfortunately it is not all good news. Over the past few weeks I have been trying to get everything sorted out with converting the transmission to accept the ls1 style slave and input shaft. Initially I was going to do this conversion myself, but since I was missing some tools (dial indicator and countershaft endplay tool) I decided to bite the bullet and drive the transmission and the conversion parts to Rockland Standard gear which is an hour away to let the professionals do the job the right way so I could rest worry free.

Well lets just say that I am lucky that I decided to let them do the conversion because what they found when they opened my transmission was disgraceful. Unfortunately the transmission that I bought and believed to be recently rebuilt actually turned out to be beat to hell with broken parts all throughout.

Here are some pictures that they sent me to show just a small portion of damaged parts:









As you could imagine I was pretty livid at this point because I had assumed the transmission was trouble free and was not anticipating these kinds of repair costs. Still pretty pissed that this guy managed to pass off this blown up transmission as a freshly rebuilt piece but thankfully there is a happy ending to this shitty situation due to the people at Rockland Standard gear being really cool and easy to work with. After discussing how much it was going to cost to rebuild this shitty lt1 tranny, we agreed that it simply wouldnt be worth it when compared to one of their freshly rebuilt ls1 units that were ready to go and built to hold up to 650 HP. They were nice enough to take the conversion kit that I bought from them back and credit me the 400 dollars towards this new unit. Didn't really expect them to take the conversion kit back after me having it for a few months but they really have top notch customer service and I recommend them to anyone in the market for a t56.

So in the end the t56 I bought was only good enough to cover the 750 dollar core charge at the transmisison shop but atleast I can rest easy knowing that I have a brand new transmission that is built for plenty of future upgrades.

Anyways here are some pictures of the new ls1 t56:

Warnd

Also spent some time in the cold garage today to try and get back on track with making some progress. The initial plan was to get the waterpump gaskets on and then do the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate, along with putting the engine and tranny together so we can get ready to test fit this and cut the shifter hole. Well of course we spent more time actually getting the garage ready to be productive work environment (bought a propane heaters so we dont freeze to death) and didnt come close to achieving everything on the list. Thankfully I will have this nice three day weekend to cross everything off this short to do list though.

Just a couple of quick pics to share. Nothing too interesting but there will be more tomorrow.

First we took off the waterpump and cleaned the surfaces on the block and waterpump to get ready for the new gaskets.



While we were doing that we took off the throttle body because we noticed some discoloration on the inside. Is this something that is supposed to be here? Or is this the result of some sort of damage? If I have to get a new one I will.



Then we just put the waterpump back on with the gaskets and torqued everything down. http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1 says to do 11lb ft on the first pass and then 22lb ft on the second pass so that is what we did.



Finally, we pulled the engine crane into the garage so we could take the engine off the stand to get ready to install all the clutch components. We built a little platform underneath the engine so that we could utilize my transmission jack when it comes time to mate the transmission and the engine. Note the new propane heater in the bottom right corner that we had to go buy which basically halted our progress for the day, but it will be worth it tomorrow haha.



Well thats it for today. Waking up first thing tomorrow and going to Autozone to rent a blind hole puller so that I can pull the old pilot bearing out of the back of the engine without screwing anything else up. Hopefully there will be more to report at the end of tomorrow.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Your TB was port/polished/smoothed. The discolored area is jb weld or some othe filler. Nothing to worry about

Warnd

Made some more slow but steady progress on build today. Went to autozone this morning to rent out the blind hole puller that was suggested for removing the old pilot bearing by numerous people on this forum and ls1tech. It turned out to be great advice because it worked flawlessly. You have to be careful when you remove the pilot to not push in the seal that sits behind it and this tool makes the job seamless.

Here is the tool you get from autozone:



and here it is in action removing the old bearing:



old bearing out:



The old bearing was damaged pretty bad and from the research I did was also installed incorrectly.

This is the side that was facing out towards the transmission...its hard to tell from this pic but its bent pretty bad...I believe this is the wrong way to have facing out towards the tranny:



This is the side that is supposed to face out towards the transmission and the way we installed the new one:



We used a large impact socket as a flat surface to place up against the new bearing and tapped it in with a hammer. We were very careful not to damage anything here and it went in very smoothly:



Also managed to get the crank balancer and full ls7 clutch assembly installed but I dont have time to post those pictures at the moment. Check back for those pictures later tonight.

Warnd

Ok thanks a lot Pocket...had myself worried about that for a while.

Warnd

As promised here are the rest of the pictures from todays work. Front balancer and Ls7 clutch assembly installed.

First up is a picture of a flywheel lock tool that I bought from Car Shop inc. Pretty nice piece and made the installation of the flywheel, pressure plate, and front balancer a breeze:



It bolts onto the block like this:



Flywheel torqued down to spec. First pass was 15lb ft then 37lb ft and a final pass of 74lb ft.



Unfortunately didnt manage to get a good pic of the clutch disc install because you have to hold the alignment tool steady while you put the pressure plate on...and this pressure plate is heavy as **** lol.

Anyways...pressure plate bolts installed and torqued down to 52lb ft. You can see the clutch alignment tool in the middle of the pressure plate:



Next we shifted focus to installing the front balancer using a method that has been suggested on this forum and ls1tech. Again this turned out to be great advice and the install was very easy.

First you get some M16 threaded rod, a bunch of M16 fender washers, and 2 nuts. I purchased all of this at my local Fastenal and it was incredibly cheap with extras to spare. The threaded rod comes in 3 foot pieces but its easy to cut down to size.



Next we screw the threaded rod all the way into the crank until it bottoms out and put the balancer, fender washers, and nuts over the threaded rod. Then some anti seize grease goes on the threaded rod where the nuts and washers will be passing. Gotta be careful not to get any of the grease on the threads that go into the crank.



Then just take the deepest 16mm socket you can find and turn the nuts until it bottoms out. We needed to stop and add a few more washers at this point to give the socket more room to push it on further.



When it feels like it wont go anymore you put the old bolt back in and torque it to 240lb ft to make sure the balancer is all the way on. Then the old bolt comes out and the new one goes in. First you torque the new bolt to 37 lb ft and then turn the bolt 140 degrees after that. After torquing it to 37 we used a breaker bar and pipe to go the rest of the way to make it easier.

New bolt installed and balancer completely seated. You can see the marks on the bolt we made to make sure we got 140 degrees after the initial 37 torque.



Well thats it for today. Should hopefully have the tranny stabbed into the back of the engine by the end of tomorrow. Hopefully nothing comes up and gets in the way

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

Don't sweat your procrastination or unrealistic time frame at all bro. My laziness level should make you feel a little better.......My '91 LS project has looked like this all winter. AND I have a heated garage and 4-post lift......I really need to sell everything and focus.




At least you make some progress and have your pop to help out. The engine bay came out great! What are you rear end plans?

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Nice detailed build thread! Take your time on the build and do it right. It will turn out much nicer in the end. I've been working on mine for over 2.5 years!

That really sucks about your transmission, but at least you shouldn't have to be concerned about it for a really long time now.

That Flywheel Lock tool is pretty cool. Did you need that to get the 240 lb. ft. of torque on your balancer bolt? Keep up the good work and enjoy the time with your pops.

Warnd

Hey, thanks for the kind words! Yeah unfortunately my brain is way more ambitious than my schedule allows for. Tough to get out there between two jobs and Grad school but whenever it gets done it gets done. I would rather go slow and do everything the right way then rush through and find out I screwed something up.

Man that is one sweet rotisserie that you built there! I really wish I had a 4-post lift to work with but unfortunately its just not in the cards right now for me. Maybe after this car is all sorted out I can put some money on the side for that. What kind of plans do you have for the project on the rotisserie?

Unfortunately rear end is going to have to remain stock for the time being. I know this isnt a good idea but I just dont have the money for it right now. Hopefully it will be enough to stand up to the daily driving task as long as I dont really hammer on it.

Went out into the garage today to mate the tranny and engine together but ran into a snag when it came time to install the slave cylinder on the tranny. I thought that I had all the necessary parts because I bought the hydraulics new, but unfortunately I am missing the steel braided line that runs from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder and this prevented me from bolting everything up. To make matters worse...they want 89 dollars for this line new! I cant make any sense of it for the life of me?! Its just a freakin hose LOL

Oh well, I have some pictures to share from the short amount of progress that was made but im too tired to put it together tonight. Check back for some more pics tomorrow.

Warnd

Hey thanks for looking dprest...Ive been watching your build for quite some time now and you do some good work!

Yeah the transmission situation was lame but the more I think about it, the happier I am that I have a tranny that has some room to grow with potential upgrades/bigger motors.

Flywheel lock tool was very handy...wish it didnt cost so much money for what it is, but I would have spent the money all over again for how easy it made the job. According to the ls1howto torque spec sheet, you are supposed to put the old bolt in and torque it to 240 to makes sure the balancer is all the way seated. After that you remove the old bolt you install the new one and torque it to 37 and then turn the bolt another 140 degrees. This requires a **** ton of force and we needed to use a breaker bar with a pipe slipped over the end to make it more manageable.

Thanks for lookin!

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

Remember to pick up a remote bleader for the slave, it'll make things much easier.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/T56-Re...der,41385.html

Here's the story on the rotisserie:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...otisserie.html

The car is a '91Z. I'll try to condense this as much as possible. I had an '86 with a 355sbc/T56/Currie 9" that just had too much rot on it. So I sold the engine/trans out of that car for $3600 which is exactly what I paid for a '99Z that I parted out. From the '99Z I kept the LS1/T56/cruise/fuel tank and sold the roller. Then I came across this '91Z (the car on the rotisserie) shell for sale dirt cheap. ($200) It was mini-tubbed, very little rust (which I've repaired), and was perfect for the LS/T56 that I kept from the '99Z.

So the '91Z has been on the rotisserie for a while. The goal now it to never be afraid to drive the car in any weather condition, so I'm working on the underside (why I built the rotisserie).

That's the condensed version. Wanna know any more just let me know. I'll try not to hijack your thread.

Warnd

Thanks for the heads up on the remote bleeder but I actually have one that came with the ls7 clutch kit I bought.

I just got done going through that rotisserie thread, there is a lot of really good information in there. Have to compliment you on that lift you got over there. Looks like a really nice piece for the price that you paid for it. Might have just sold me on one of those bad boys haha. Also funny how you talk about digging a trench in your backyard to run electricity out to the garage because I just got done doing that same thing myself. If you notice, some of the pictures from early in this thread are in the poorly lit garage before we got power out there. Its so nice to finally have power out there so we dont have to worry about hanging drop lights or running extension cords from the house.

You and me have somewhat similar goals for our cars in that we want to be able to drive them regularly without having to worry about one thing or another. I plan on updating the interior quite a bit to bring it into the modern age but I cant even think about that until I know that it runs and drives.

Also dont worry about hijacking...I welcome any and all friendly discussion.

Warnd

Ok so this isnt really a worthy update but I took pictures so I figured I might as well post them. Also have a question for you guys too.

Unfortunately since I am piecing all of this stuff together (like an idiot), I was missing the bolts for the bellhousing to block as well as the bellhousing to transmission bolts. I bought both of these from hawks and here are the links in case anyone stumbles upon this and needs them:

http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/pr...-8-New-GM.html

http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/pr...-of-8-New.html

Hawks sent both of these out extremely quick. Was happy to get them before the weekend so I wouldnt be held up. Here are the bellhousing to block bolts:



First I cleaned up the bellhousing in the parts washer because it was a used piece and was pretty filthy. Prob not necessary since its going to get dirty all over again but hey I got the washer so I might as well put it to good use:



Then we just torqued the bolts down to 37 to install it to the block:



And here is where we ran into a standstill. Was about to stab the transmission in so we had to install the slave cylinder before we did that. This is where we noticed that we didnt have all of the parts for the complete hydraulic assembly and were missing this 100 dollar freakin line. Didnt want to bolt everything in for good until we had everything in our hands.

Here is where my question comes in....this is eveything that I have as far as clutch hydraulics go:



Two questions:

How do we hook up the remote bleeder? Do we unscrew that fitting on the top and then screw the bleeder directly into the slave?

Also, I know that I am missing that magic 100 dollar line, but is there anything else I am missing that goes along with this? Isnt there supposed to be some sort of reservoir that goes along with this to mount in the engine bay?

any help/suggestions would be appreciated

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

I've got a master/line for $50 shipped. Aftermarket lines are about the same price as stock

Yes the bleeder line replaces the solid fitting

You can get a reservoir for about $10 on ebay or just about any manual vehicle in a JY

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

Yep a fluid reservoir shouldn't cost much.

I always use lube or anti-seize on any bolts that are going into aluminum. Could save a big headache some day.

If you have a Fastenal near you they're a great place to find bolts super cheap. I'm lucky enough to live right by one. Strange Engineering is also 5 mins from me.

Warnd

Funny you mention that pocket because I stumbled across your BST thread last night in the lsx classifieds, but unfortunately I had already pulled the trigger on the line from Hawks. Coming through fedex so it should be here by tomorrow afternoon.

Thanks for the info on the bleeder line and reservoir...right now on ebay I only see new ones for 35 bucks but I probably havent done enough diligent searching yet.

Warnd

Yep we put a little bit of oil on all the bolts for the bellhousing...forgot to add that little bit of information.

I am actually lucky enough to live close to a Fastenal as well and I went there to try and get the bellhousing bolts but they didnt have bolts with a flange head like these. Also, these bolts for the bellhousing to block have that little shoulder on them and I wasnt sure if that was crucial for getting the bellhousing lined up properly. I definitely overpaid for these bolts from hawks but my dad felt more comfortable using the bolts that were specifically meant for this application rather than trying to make due with something else.

We got a bunch of snow here last night so work and night class are canceled for me today. Hopefully I can get out to the garage and bolt on the rest of the front accessories after I move some snow around.

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

The lift was challenging because I had to modify the garage ceiling in order to lift a vehicle to a realistic working height. Everyone said it couldn't be done but guess what........it worked and has been awesome.

The lift is also mobile. It comes with huge casters that allow you to move it wherever you want. It just BARELY makes it out of my garage so that on nice days I can work on vehicles outside with unlimited headroom.





Can even double stack:



Easily the best $2200 I've ever spent.

And digging that trench SUCKED *** in the 100degree heat!

camarozz383

iTrader: (2)

Ok I'm definitely in on this!! I'm at the same thing so I need the info as well! do you have any part numbers for the lt1/ls1 swap parts? I need the clutch hydraulics info as well. great project hey! garage full of camaros! nothing better.

Warnd

Thanks for taking a look

If you are interested in the conversion parts for making an lt1 t56 an ls1 style t56, just call up Rockland Standard Gear and tell them you want the LT1 to LS1 T56 conversion kit and they will send you everything you need. Its 400 bucks for everything included. Great people over there...highly recommend them.

Unfortunately I wont be able to help you out with pics or instructions for this conversion because I wound up buying an ls1 style t56 because the lt1 tranny was trashed (there are some pics at the top of this page of the damage).

For the clutch hydraulics, you can get them from a number of different places but mine came as part of a kit with my ls7 clutch kit (from a vendor on ls1tech.com). You just need the clutch hydraulics for a regular 4th gen f-body, but when you buy the master and the slave, make sure that you have the line that connects the two of them together. My kit didnt include this line and it was an extra 100 dollars.

camarozz383

iTrader: (2)

ok that helps,thanks so much

Warnd

Just another small little update for you guys. Nothing too interesting but finally got a day break from all this crappy weather we have been having. Got a pretty late start in the garage today but managed to put on the new alternator and new powersteering pump/ powersteering pump pulley.

When looking at the alternator bracket I wasn't happy with the way the pulley looked with all the surface rust so I decided to take it apart to see if we could get it looking a little more respectable.

Here it is before taking it apart:



First I attempted to use some sandpaper and WD-40 to try and get the rust off the pulley but it wasn't working well enough so we busted out the power tools:



Here it is after some work:



Couple of parts getting touched up with the flat black paint:



All painted and waiting to be put back together:



Here it is all mounted up on the engine...Torque specs for the bracket to block bolts are 37 lb ft and the torque specs for that little support bracket on the back of the alternator are 18 lb ft:





Next up is mounting the re manufactured powersteering pump I bought from hawks because the one I posted earlier had a crack in the resevoir...Torque specs for all the bolts with the powersteering is 18 lb ft:



Next we just put the powersteering pulley onto the pump. Did this by pulling it on in a way very similar to how we put the crank pulley on. Just use a bolt thats long enough with a couple of fender washers and pull it on until its flush at the end:



Thats it for today. Hoping to get a nice early start tomorrow to finish up mounting the slave on the tranny and then stabbing it in the back of the engine. After that it should be ready to drop into the car just as all this snow is finished melting.

Stay tuned for another update tomorrow night

Warnd

Finally managed to get the transmission stabbed into the back of the engine this afternoon. Ran into some problems when the bolts that came from Hawks were the wrong bolts (they werent metric!) and almost stripped one of the bellhousing holes but once we got the right bolts everything went smoothly. Not a very exciting update but its something I have been wanting to get to for a while. Anyway here are the pics from today...

First we installed the remote bleeder onto the slave. The directions called for red locktite on the fitting that screws into the slave so thats what we did. Here is the slave bolted onto the tranny with the throwout bearing installed:



Used the engine crane and the transmission jack to do all the heavy lifting:





Easing it in...this was incredibly easy outside of the car lol. Forgot to mention we put some of this spline lubricant that came with the clutch kit from LUK. It was a pretty thick silverish type of lubricant:



All done...the torque spec for the transmission to bellhousing bolts is 37 lb ft as per ls1howto:





Wanted to finish this post off with two questions for you guys.

First, I am getting a harness built by BP Automotive and just placed my order the other day but he wants to know what kind of connection he needs to give me for the speedo for my year camaro. He said something about there being two different types and he wasnt 100 percent sure which one the 1992 took. If anyone has this info it would be greatly appreciated.

Second, trying to figure out where to direct my attention to next on the swap. My first thought was to cut the hole for the master cylinder and get that installed because it might be easier to do it now while the engine is still out of the car. Thoughts? Is there anything else I should take care of with the engine out of the car? because i really want to drop this badboy in asap.

Warnd

Also thinking about getting some new wheels for the car within the next month or so and wanted to get some opinions from you guys on what might look best. Trying to choose between C6 zr1s, xxrs, and boze lateral Gs. All of the wheels would be in either black or a dark gunmetal finish. Here are some pics:

C6 Zr1s:



xxrs (sorry stole this pic from a member on here)



lateral Gs (these would be black or gunmetal with the polished lip):



Lemme know what you guys think.

Javier87z28

iTrader: (1)

Id go ZR1s bud, nice looking wheels!

Warnd

Thanks Javier, I am kinda leaning the same way right now but I really like both of the other wheels too.

STREETDEMON

xxr's look better on the car in my opinion. our cars are too square for the new style ZR1's.

cut the hole for the clutch mc with the engine out, it will be easier to do, and definitely easier to install without the engine in the way!

Warnd

Thanks for the advice Street, I really like the way the xxr's look too but its a tough decision to make. Might be making some big changes to the car depending on a few different things but we will have to wait and see.

Still didn't get to installing the clutch MC yet because im really slow but did get some time to work on the car today in the nice weather. Decided to work on removing the tpi wiring harness from the car because my harness from BP automotive should be ready any day now. I started by unplugging the computer by the passanger side foot panel. After that I had to remove the grommet that holds the harness to the body by the fender. Had a few questions now that everythings out and was looking for some guidance from you guys.

Here is the whole engine harness out of the car:



Here is the part that plugs into the computer and the fender grommet that I was talking about:



Here is where my questions come in. I took pictures of all the wires that I have left in the engine bay after removing the main harness and just wanna know how I have to deal with what is left.

Here is what I have left on the drivers side harness. I disconnected part of this from the engine harness when I was taking it out because it looked like it had to stay haha:



Here is what I have left in the center of the engine bay:



Here is where the above wires come from:



Also have some bad news to report about my first engine painting experience. Apparently I wasn't as diligent with my sanding as I should have been the first time around, and some of the paint was peeling and bubbling in some areas that I missed with the sand paper. Oh well....had a nice day to redo the problem areas. Sanded them down and some of the surrounding area. Its not perfect but this isnt supposed to be a show car.







Here it is after I touched everything up:



Last question...I had two blue connectors left after I unplugged the computer. These both seemed to go up into the dash and disappear. What am I supposed to do with these? Sorry if these questions are stupid, but I am just trying to get a handle on the basics of the wiring for this swap.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

First, find a 90-92 V6 or TBI harness. You have a SD TPI harness in great shape thats worth a good chunk of change. Offset the wiring costs

Next, to ID your connectors:

Clear connector near the old ECM: C207
INJ1/2 fuses, ECM fuse, speedo, MIL go through this
Required

Drivers half of the harness is left untouched for the swap. That hold the lights and wiper system

Mid engine bay is the HVAC mini-harness
The greasy 4 pin is the HVAC to engine harness connector. Blower fan 12v, grd and AC request come from this
Gray 4 pin is blower fan resistor
2 pin, blower motor
Blower fan relay
All is required if you want to keep any part of the HVAC system

Post pics of the blue connectors in question. The C207 on the dash side uses a pair of black connectors vs the single clear on the engine side

Warnd

Thanks so much pocket, really appreciate your help with this. I will definitely start looking for a v6 harness so I can sell this one for whatever its worth. I guess Im just a little confused as to how Im going to integrate all of this with the BP automotive harness. Am I going to have to take that apart when I get it to add all of these things in, or will there be connectors that make all of it possible? Sorry if these questions are stupid, just trying to understand everything.

The blue connectors that I mentioned were actually black Here is the picture of them....even though it sounds exactly like what you are talking about:

90camaro355rs

really cool build man!

92BLKL98

Nice work so far, I am laying together the parts and funds as we speak to do my '92 Z. It's on jacks in the garage with a busted 700R4. I just haven't decided if I want to go T56 or automatic. Kind of a restore on the car the body is still as in my sig, I need to do the interior and some minor detail stuff but stay with your project, it's coming together nicely. I know you will be proud of it.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Yup, dash dash side c207

Ghettobird52

LOL and i thought my swap for my exhaust system was big. Good work!!!

Warnd

Thanks man. Gotta give a shout out to all the members on this forum who have paved the way for people like me. All the information and hard work is already done. Just gotta read what they did and try to copy it lol.

Well like I mentioned in a previous post, plans for this car are taking a huge turn from what I had originally planned. And thats a good thing! Many good things coming for this car that I didnt plan on doing initially but a good deal came along so I jumped on it.

Unfortunately I dont have time to go into all the details right now, but I will leave you guys with these two teaser photos to see if you can piece together what is happening.

First teaser:



Second teaser....does this car look familiar to anyone?!



I have a ton more pictures and information, but today is really busy for me with school work and finals next week. Ill try to post back tomorrow with more pictures and details!

khulsebus

iTrader: (2)

I don't like being teased, spill already.

onefreakz

1ADan's 5.3 swap (aka tax check's gone)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...-5-3-swap.html

onefreakz

how much u pick it up for ??$$$

Warnd

You are correct sir! This is indeed 1ADan's car. Saw that he was interested in giving up on the project and liked a lot of the parts that he was choosing so I decided to make an offer on the car to see if he was interested.

I bought the car without the engine and transmission because the engine was already promised to a friend of his at work and I had no need for the automatic since I already have a T56.

Still dont have enough time to post pictures of everything but I will give you guys a list of parts that are on the car or came with the car.

walbro pump, corvette fpr/filter, braided lines
all moog steering
energy suspensions a-arm bushings
generic lowering springs
ls1 front brake conversion
kyb gr2 struts/shocks
36mm front swaybar?
wonderbar
ac delete box
magnaflow exhaust (mostly)
4th gen driveshaft (auto)
9" rear, iron disc brakes
founders performance single adjustable lcas & panhard
founders performance caster/camber plates
hotchkis subframe connectors
C5 corvette wheels w/ spacers
edelbrock carb stb (should work for lsx swaps too)
91/92 camaro side gfx
88-only camaro mini "high rise" spoiler
4th gen dash/console

As you can see there were a lot of nice parts on the car...a lot of them were ones I still needed for my swap. The main selling points for me were the 9 inch rear, ls1 disc brakes, 1 set of c5 vette wheels, 1 set of other aftermarket wheels, AC delete box, fuel pump/fuel filter and steel braided lines, magnaflow exhaust, and all of the suspension goodies that he bought new.

As far as the price, im not sure Dan would want me sharing that kind of information with the board so Im going to keep that one between me and him for now, sorry....but I would like to think that I got a very very good deal.

Will definitely have some nice pictures to share by the middle of the week. Stay tuned and let me know what you guys think!

khulsebus

iTrader: (2)

I hope that you enjoy the car. I had been talking to him about some of the parts that he used on his swap, mainly the trans cooler lines, and asked him how he liked his swap. That's when he said that he had abandoned the project and was parting the car. I hope that you enjoy it.

Warnd

Thanks I definitely will enjoy the car...I have big plans for the trans am but for now all of the nice parts are going into the camaro to get it running. The trans am will eventually have its own build thread but that wont be for a few years until the camaro is all sorted and my bank account recovers lol.

New plan is to drop the k-member and front suspension and swap it over to the camaro because Dan's k-member was already notched so it just makes sense. This will allow me to swap the engine and tranny in from the bottom like most other people do....really thought I was going to go through the top instead but it worked out different anyway lol

Warnd

Was wondering if I could get some advice from you guys quick. I want to swap everything from the front suspension from the trans am to the camaro including the k-member (trans am k-member is already notched.) My question is, what is the easiest way to do this? Is it possible to drop the k-member with everything still attatched? (springs, struts, control arms, brakes etc...?) Just trying to figure out the quickest way to do this and wasnt sure if everything had to be completely disassembled before I dropped the k-member.

Any help or advice you guys could give me would be greatly appreciated.

As far as updates....I swapped the ac delete box from the trans am to the camaro LOL. Besides that also picked up a new 2 stage compressor. Very excited about that and air tools

khulsebus

iTrader: (2)

I'd try to leave everything intact. Undo the struts from the caster camber plates (the springs will drop once you remove the top of the strut), disconnect the brake lines from the master/proportioning valve, and then the bolts holding the crossmember to the car, and it "should" drop right out. I say should because I have never tried it, found out about it after I did the last two engine swaps.

Warnd

Thanks man thats what I was thinking in my head. When I was out there looking at it it seemed possible but I dont really know all that much haha. My only concern is really the safety of having the springs out of the car like that. Are they going to launch out of there and kill me when the k-members not on the car and there is no weight keeping them where they are supposed to be?

khulsebus

iTrader: (2)

The way that I've dropped springs out (which I read in both Car Craft and Hot Rod) is to put your jack under the A arm, remove the nut on the top of the strut, then release tension slowly on the jack. With stock springs, they came right out. When I put in new springs, they needed a compressing before seating. I'd do that before loosening the crossmember.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

I have seen spring compressors that go on the outside of the springs. That would probably work good for this. Otherwise, maybe try wrapping a chain around the k-member and through the center of the spring and a-arm just to be safe. That way if it does try to pop out the chain will keep it from launching.

khulsebus

iTrader: (2)

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...essor/_/N-264t

It goes on the inside of the spring, you feed it up through the hole in the control arm, grab the spring as close to the spring at the top, then slide the fork in as low as it can. Then tighten until the spring will come out.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...essor/_/N-25f9

The outside the spring compressor doesn't work on these cars. I just switched my springs out the other day, I had thought about making a video of the jack method, but it didn't work and I needed the compressor.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

interesting. Yeah, I didn't have much luck using the inside spring compressor that I have.

khulsebus

iTrader: (2)

The last two cars that I had, I had no issues using that spring compressor. Much better than some of the other inner spring compressors. The car I have now, the springs fought me every step of the way, but I think that was more to do with the springs that were in the car.

Warnd

Thanks for all that info dprest and khulsebus....unfortunately i already bought one of those spring compressors that goes on the outside from harbor freight (i know they make shitty tools but I made an exception here). Im still going to try to do what you suggested khulsebus and jack up the lower control arm and try to get it out that way. If that doesnt work I guess I will take the trip to advanced and rent out that tool.

Sorry everyone for slacking big time with the pictures and progress updates. I have tons of pictures to share with you guys and hope to have everything uploaded right after I get off work.