jbenge

iTrader: (2)

There is a bunch of room over the axle. The pipe fits tight between the heat sheild and the panhard brace though. I can take a pic of how it fits over the axle if that would be helpful for you.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Wheels are Billet Specialties Rally, 17x8 front and 17x9.5 on the rear.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I used the thirdgen pressure switch. It is adjustable but mine didn't short cycle so we didn't make any adjustments.

coptzer

iTrader: (2)

I would really appreciate a pic if it's not too much trouble. I have a cat back SLP that I used before my swap, but I don't really want to put it back on. Plus I like how the mufflex system tucks the tailpipe.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

The exhaust tucks up tight against the heat shield so there is quite a bit of room above the axle. Not the best pics but hopefully it helps.

khulsebus

iTrader: (2)

Even the bottom of your car puts mine to shame.

Bradlyj8Z28

iTrader: (2)

Sharp ride. 91 is the best year for Camaros...

pmcruz781

when you put your a/c back in your car did you use the 4th gen lines or the third gen ones. I don't have either set with my build, and I don't want to buy the wrong ones.

pmcruz781

drduster when you put the 3 wire switch in place of the 2 wire one, what did you do with the other wire, which side did you splice it in on, or did you just leave the third wire disconnected.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

You have to get a new custom set of lines made or buy the lines that hawks sells for the conversion.

drduster

iTrader: (2)

To be honest, I didn't splice anything. The 3 wire connector was part of the conversion harness I bought from Hawks.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

The 3rd gen two wire pressure switch is completely different from the 3 wire pressure sensor LS1 PCMs expect. It uses a TPS style connector and is completely contained in the PCM wiring. The old two wire switch is simply a fan override when the system is turned on. A bit of luck with the new sensor screwing in place of the old switch without issue

6speedIROC

iTrader: (3)

You can use a 1990 Grand Am sensor (AC Delco part # 15-72104, GM part # 22599559) See post #7 here:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...h-gen-ltx.html

Can wire it up like this:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...-pcm-into.html

steveo346

jbenge this car is gorgeous, and one of the cleanest ls swaps ive seen yet. Once I get ready to do my swap, ill definitely be messaging you, ha

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

I'm interested in your part numbers on the fuel system stuff. I think I'm gonna copy you buddy!

Gecz28

iTrader: (5)

do you have specifics on the wheel spacers? i have the c5 setup with 4th gen wheels. i need to know what size you ordered for the hub, since the 3rd gen hub tapers slightly

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Fuel Filter Wix 33737
Quick Connect 6an Fuel Rail Fitting RUS-644120 x 2
Fuel Rail Adapter 3/8 quick connect RUS-640940
Quick Connect Fuel Fitting RUS-644110
Adapter Fitting RUS-640830
Straight 6an hose end RUS-620401 x 2
90* 6an hose end RUS-620421 x 4
Powerflex Hose Teflon braided 20ft RUS-632640
6an to 5/16 barb fitting AEI-15635

You will need a short piece of 5/16 high pressure fuel injection line and 2 clamps from your local parts store to join the sending unit(5/16 hard line) to the 6an to 5/16 barb fitting on the turn from the filter/regulator. If that doesn't make sense you can see in the attached picture.

The fuel pump, install kit, and hotwire kit came from the link below. The actual fuel pump part# is Walboro GSS294M.

http://www.racetronix.biz/customkiti...c=RFPK-005&eq=

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

You will need a different spacer I think, mine is only centered by the wheel studs. But these are thin and aluminum so no balance issues. This is what I used.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bae-2000008/overview/

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

Thanks James!

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I got some questions about the fuel system so I adapted an old diagram that I think Pocket made and put my part#'s on it. Hope this helps.

Small update for the car. I ordered a Strange 12 bolt with 3.42 gears and disk brake kit a few weeks ago..wasn't planning on it but got a good deal. Not planning on any kind of crazy power levels in the future but I would like to bolt on some sticky tires and see what it will do with out worring about breaking anything. I like the higher efficiency and lighter weight of the 12 bolt vs a 9in for this application. Still don't have the rear in yet, it might be awhile before I get to it.

khulsebus

iTrader: (2)

Jealous, I've been lusting after either a 9" or a 12 bolt.

redmaroz

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for that diagram, and all the info you have posted, it helps a ton!

Ryder85

I am looking to do the same. what size line did you run to the motor? how much length did it take and where did you get it?

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

See post #117 for a complete parts list. I got all of the parts from Summit. I used 6an line and had a few feet left over after buying a 20ft roll.

-=Z28=-

iTrader: (3)

Very inspiring jbenge!! Cant wait till im out of school and am making money!(I hope...) High quality work and taking no short corners. What kind of hp will that motor make the way it is....(Edit.. just saw) how about max hp with adders? My 84z is sitting in storage.. its getting nice out.... threads like this make me go crazzzy... Again, very nice work and very inspiring!! Keep up the solid work and keep us in the loop!

-Dan

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the comments. The sky is the limit when it comes to power adders, the stock pistons and rod bolts would come into question anything over an extra 100-150HP. I've always wanted to build a Pro Charged LS engine...but not for this car, I'll keep it n/a and street friendly. I will eventually do cam and heads but nothing too crazy.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I do have one update. I installed a Strange 12 bolt over the past few weeks. I'm impressed with this rearend, it came from the factory with LCA relocation holes already in it, sway bar mounts, new poly sway bar end links, gear oil, and posi additive. It's truely a bolt in deal. I opted for the HD Eaton posi, 33 spline axels, 3.42 gears, and Wilwood disk brakes. I also had a local shop make a 3in steel drive shaft with 1350 U-joints.

I was using UMI non adjustable LCA's up to this point. Since I changed the rear I ordered a set of Founders Adjustable LCA's with the 3 piece poly joint.

http://www.foundersperformance.com/1...ce-poly-joint/

To convert to disk brakes I changed the spring in the proportioning valve to a 1NCR5 spring which is quite a bit stiffer than the stock drum brake spring that was in my car before which in turn increases the pressure to the rear brakes. If you want to know more about this I found the info here.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/brak...e-upgrade.html

The Wilwood brakes were a bit of a pain to set up initially. The instructions weren't very clear. They come with a spacer for the caliper but it isn't used in this application..took me awhile to figure that out. They also have to be shimmed to center the caliper on the rotor. Not a big deal but I had to order some shim washers from AFCO to get them centered properly.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Here are a couple of pics after installation. The brakes had an annoying squeek once I got the car going again. I had to add some anti squeek compound to the back side of the pads. The noise seems to have pretty much gone away now. The new brakes do stop very well, I can tell a difference for sure.

The rear does have a whine around 40-50mph, pretty quiet other than that. It was very loud at first but has gotten more quiet as I've broken it in. It was super loud the first test drive, I was worried it would be that loud even after break in but its gotten progressively better.

Luckily I've got HP Tuners now so I was able to correct the tune for the gear change(3.23 to 3.42) easily without paying a tuner.

92BLKL98

This is a very nice build, I keep referring back to it for ideas. How does it run with the 3.42s vs the 3.23s? I plan to keep the 3.23 4th gen rear end for now (til I kill it). My build is going to be with an LQ9 with L92 heads, an LS3 top end with Racing innovations 1 ¾ LTs, and a Comp Cams 225/230 cam kit from TSP. It will have a 4L60E with plans for a Vigilante TC. I think mine should run pretty good.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Not much difference in a 3.42 vs a 3.23 honestly. The biggest difference is in how the torque converter feels. A steeper gear will make a torque converter feel a little tighter at light acceleration if that makes sense. I would like to make it back to the drag strip this spring to if it makes any difference, probably not much but maybe a little. I really need to pick up a set of drag radials, that would make the biggest difference.

Your build will run very well, looking forward to seeing yours progress.

STREETDEMON

I would look into a different cam. The L92s like a bigger split in duration do to the large intake valve. Other than that, looks like you've got it figured out.

91z28 98ta

iTrader: (1)

Where'd you get the strange 12bolt? Was it pricey? Im using a 4th gen rear and the extra width is starting to aggrivate me.

92BLKL98

That was the cam recommended by Texas Speed and what I purchased based on their recommendations with the package including my gearing and transmission. At this time I am not going to change it, I will run it and get it tuned and see how it goes.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Strange wouldn't offer a Truetrac, assembled. I went with Mark Williams hoping to not have this same scenario, but I do. Only 600 miles so far and it is getting better. I'll wait til 1,000.
I went with D-154 (a floating caliper) w/PB kit. I think it's better on the back end and TA cars put all the stress on the fronts. I'll probably swap to something a little larger to balance the 6pot fronts once I find someone to mod the brackets. I did the spring mod, too.
I'm looking around for Parking cables. What did you do? Not in a hurry, but they're on my to do list.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I didn't hook up the parking brake on mine. Since my car is an automatic I'm not too concerned about hooking it up. Wilwood makes a parking brake cable kit for gm cars that is supposed to work. I might hook it up later if I see the need for it, not sure its worth the trouble on an auto car though.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I got mine from a local shop that is a Strange dealer. I got the rearend with brakes for $3k total with free shipping. Midwest Chassis gave basically the same price but I went with the local guy because I had them bend and flare the brake lines for me....I've had inconsistant results doing my own brake flares.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I made a few changes to the car over the winter.
243 heads CNC ported by Advanced Induction, 62cc combustion chamber
AI 228/232@.05, .625/.625 lift, 112LSA
BTR .660 lift springs
Fast 92mm intake manifold
Nick Williams 92mm throttle body
85mm MAF
Comp. Cams trunion upgrade kit

I had a few issues after the initial start up. Trans cooler line split and blew trans fluid every where. That took awhile to clean up. Then one of the heater hoses started to leak at the firewall. Changed the heater hose then the heater core started to leak. Header collector gasket was leaking so I changed those out too. I drove the car for 2 years after completing the LS swap with no leaks...had several little issues this time.

The good news is the noise that I had assumed was piston slap must have been a lifter. It's quiet now on cold start up.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I changed my lower radiator hose to a gates brand for a LS1 F-Body (Part # 22354). It clears much better than the dayco.

Ikes 91Z

iTrader: (1)

I have really enjoyed reading this build and stolen a lot of ideas from it. Any plans for further mods in the near future?

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Got it tuned by Mike Norris on a Dyno Jet. I'm happy with the results. I was hoping for about 420HP to the hear wheels so it exceeded my expectations. The car drives well and definately comes alive about 3500RPM. I'm sure it would benefit from steeper gears and higher stall speed converter(currently 3.42, 3200) if I was trying to optimize it for the drag strip. It's mainly a cruiser so I don't want to go too crazy with it. The graph shows the original dyno results when the engine was stock other than headers and exhaust and after the cam/head swap.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Thanks! I've had a blast with the car. I have a B&M torque arm that I need to install. I'm planning on having a friend fabricate a new trans crossmember/torque arm mount. I'll get the ypipe redone at that time too. I'm not happy with the V Band it tends to make noise and vibrate loose.

I bought another set of rear wheels so I can mount some sticky tires on them and see what it will do at the track.

R13_Braz

Part number?

Mine is still up against the idler arm, which I'm not happy about.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Gates 22354, I got mine at Oreilly Auto Parts.

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

I have had your car on my mind a lot this weekend. I'm very pleased with your results. My wife didn't understand my excitement over "someone elses car" haha! Will be interesting to see where mine comes out with the T56, and using a LS6 Manifold instead of the FAST set up.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Lesson learned don't use Thermoid brand heater hose. Changed my heater core a couple of weeks ago thinking it was bad. Tested it yesterday morning and it's fine.

I hooked the heater core up to the sink in the garage to pressure test it using the hose that I had on the core when I removed it. Keep in mind the hose was brand new after the cam/head swap. I had to cut the hose off that was on the core before the head/cam swap so I had to change it.

I found while testing the core that no matter what style of clamp(tried both factory style and worm gear clamps) and even with silicone the hose would leak shooting a fine stream of water around where it's clamped. The stream of coolant was shooting out around the hose and going in the hole where the heater core pipes come through the firewall making it look like the heater core was leaking.

The Thermoid hose kept leaking when I was trying to test the core(same hose that was on the car at the time of the leak). Both the 5/8 and 3/4 hose leaked exactly the same way under pressure. When I changed the core I got new Gates hoses.. no leaks. I switched to napa brand hoses to complete the heater core test, no leaks. I normally get NAPA hoses or Gates brand from Oreilly. I got the Thermoid hose from one of the other parts stores...never again. The most disturbing part about it is that the Thermoid hose says made in USA on it. The Thermoid hose seems to be a little stiffer that the other brands of hoses, maybe it's too stiff to conform to the shape of the pipe to make a good seal.

Oh well, I've got a spare factory heater core to put in if the replacement ever gives me issues.

STREETDEMON

those are pretty solid numbers. 350ft/lbs+ from 3500-6500

mine managed 422rwhp (lq9, ls6 intake, stock 317 heads, f13 cam, t56) through the 8.8 w/4.10's.

if you ever do pull the tranny out, definitely move up to a 3600rpm stall. you'll get the most out of the torque curve.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

My wife doesn't understand it either...lol She thinks I'm nuts when I clean the engine bay and underside of the car.

I think you will be happy with the LS Swap especially with the cam/heads package. It drives well and makes crazy power for factory casting heads and only 346 cubic inches. This is about as good as it gets for bang for your buck HP upgrades.

Your car should be 5-7% more effiecient with the T56 but I probably gained 15-20HP with the fast intake over the LS6. Should be pretty close on the HP/Torque numbers between our cars if the dyno factors in the altitude difference accurately. Your engine is a fresh rebuild so that could be worth a few HP too. I'll be just as excited to see your results, I'm guessing your car will make about the same or a little more power than mine.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I agree, 3600 stall would be beneficial. If I abuse the trans too much it may end up coming out anyway, it's probably the week link in the drive train at this point.

84 1LE

iTrader: (9)

What vehicle is that gates for, same as the dayco piece?

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

98-02 LS1 Camaro, same as the Dayco.