jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I started the LS1 Swap a few weeks about and finally decided to make a build thread. The car is a 91 Z28 (69K miles) with a stock L98/700-R4. I've had the car for a couple of years now and it was 100% stock when I bought it. After tuning up the L98 it ran a 14.2 1/4 mile, not bad for a stock TPI car. Then I installed UMI subframe connectors, Koni Yellow shocks/struts, tubular LCAs and panhard bar. I almost hate to tear apart a good running stock car but I'm just not a TPI fan.

My original plan was to do the LS1 swap then paint the car but after searching for an LS1 I couldn't find one for a decent price so I painted the car last winter. While the car was in the paint shop I found a LS1 from a 2002 Z28 with 33k miles. I went ahead and bought the engine but didn't have the funds to install it last winter so it's going in this winter.

My goal for this build is a to have a fun reliable car with a show quality (close to factory looking) LS1 installation. I'm taking a lot of extra time to paint and clean everything. I may eventually swap the cam/heads on the LS1 but want to keep it stock for now. I also want to make sure the engine/trans is good before I put more money into it for cam/heads. I don't want to make it a race car though, already have one of those. I want to keep this car super street friendly with good gas mileage and reliability.

Plans for the build
Stock 2002 LS1/4L60E
ported throttle body
Hawks 1 3/4 LT headers(bought used from 91_B4C_RS)
Mufflex 3.5in cat back exhaust w/ custom y-pipe
3200 stall speed FTI torque converter
Speartech Wiring Harness
Racetronix fuel pump and relay kit
K&N GTO CAI kit

First picture is the car just after I bought it. Second pic is after paint.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

LS1 was bought from a LS1tech.com member who parts out cars. It came from a wrecked 2002 Z28 with 33k miles. I saw various pics and videos of the engine and car before buying it. The car sat for about a year after being wrecked before it was parted out. After getting the engine I took the valve covers off and valley pan, looks more dirty then I hoped but not horrible.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

L98 is out. Engine bay looks decent for a 22 year old car but could use some paint to match the fresh paint on the exterior.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Paint prep! Removed everything I could to get it out of the way. Washed everything with Simple green. Rinsed with a water hose and dried to get all the simple green residue off. Then scuffed up all the surfaces with red scotch bright and cleaned again. Masking everything off took forever. Did a final degreasing with Sim Sol..I think its called.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Big thanks to my father in law Larry. He had some experience working in a body shop, I couldn't have done it with out him. He works at a paint store now and was able to get the paint and supplies at a very good discount. I did all the prep work and he sprayed the engine bay. Turned out very well.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

K-Member is now out. I'm having a friend of mine notch it for oil pan and AC compressor clearance. I cleaned and painted the steering components. Have also been working on cleaning and painted other nuts/bolts and brackets. Found a set of Eibach Sportline Springs on Craigslist locally new in the box for $50. Those will be going on the car in place of the cut stock springs.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Thats one of the cleanest dirty engine bays Ive ever seen

Looking good!

Steve86TA

iTrader: (57)

Looked great before but even better now.

drduster

iTrader: (2)

Great progress. Can't wait to watch the project unfold.

jbenge

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Started working on a solution for the steam line. I found that a 3/8NPT fitting was very close to the size of the port on the radiator that goes to the heater/oil cooler. I tried to tap the port on the radiator but there just wasn't enough material to get the tap deep enough, it would have broken if I went any deeper. After taping it as deep as I could the fitting would only go in a couple of turns. So I ground down the threaded part of the fitting until it fit snug in the hole and used JB weld to glue it in place. By the time I ground down the threaded area of the fitting it was pretty much smooth so I used the dremal tool and cut some grooves in it to give the JB Weld something to grip to. I think it should work pretty well.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Got the A-Arms cleaned and painted this weekend. The coil packs/brackets were cleaned and painted awhile back. Cleanted the intake, wanted to leave it its natural color and finish. Had some trouble getting paint to stick to the fuel rail for some reason. Had to strip off all the original paint before the new paint would go on with no fish eyes.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

When I took the front end apart I noticed the front brakes needed to be replaced. So I decided to upgrade to C5 brakes from www.bigbrakeupgrade.com I'm anxious to try the new brakes, this will be the first car I've had with upgraded brakes. I will be using the stock drums on the rear for now.

I took the accessories off the engine today and started to clean the engine. I used scotch bright and simple green to get most of the grime off. Then I used some paint thinner to get out some stains in the aluminum. Also used some never dull to even out the finish in the areas that needed it. I still need to polish the heads a little more but the block looks pretty good now. I thought about painting the block but I like the bare aluminum look better now that I got it clean. The balancer still needs to be painted.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Got the K-member notches done. I made the notch for the oil pan deeper than it needed to be to give a little extra clearance when putting the engine/trans in from the top. I think I'll try to put the engine/trans/k-member in from the bottom this time though. Looks like it would be easier since the k-member is already out. I only need to raise the car a few more inches than it is now to slide the engine under.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Got the poly inserts put into the mounts. I took a pic of the originals for reference and also a pic of the new mount with the pic in the directions. I know there has been some questions about orientation of the mounts.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I bolted the K-member and mounts up to the engine to make sure everything fits. No problems yet. Anyone remember why some of the bolts for the motor mounts on the engine have a stud on top and some are just a bolt? I couldn't remember and also unsure if the studs go on top or bottom..or may not matter if they were used for something I don't have.

I had some trouble getting the k-member painted. Paint cracked and crinkled in a few places. I was using VHT roll bar and chassis paint. Tried it with and without primer with the same results. I stripped it to bare metal twice and used sim-sol to prep. I painted it again after these pics, looks better now, but not as good as the other parts I've painted. No other parts had this issue that I've painted. I figured the a-arms or front steering pieces would be the ones I would have trouble with considering the amount of grease and dirt built up on them.

drduster

iTrader: (2)

It looks great. After it's all installed, you're the only one who will know...

IROCgiraffe

iTrader: (3)

Nice job!

khulsebus

iTrader: (2)

Looks good.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Very true, I get told that a lot. I drive myself crazy with stuff that nobody else will ever see sometimes.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

I feel you same here

bluegrassz

iTrader: (3)

Looks nice. Any plans for the old L98/700R4?

I have been debating on going LS or just going back to a L98 for the efi.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I've already sold the L98/700-R4. Going LS is expensive initially but there is so much more potential and tunability. If you go back to a L98 it gets expensive too once you upgrade to a steath ram or mini ram to make decent power. Neither choice is bad just depends on what you are looking for in your combo and your budget.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

I agree I was same boat fix up L98 or go LS I went lsx route intial cost might be higher but once the swap out the way then its all down hill from there

jwknight

I had about the same situation also. Went with the LS engine. It looks like it came from the factory that way. I'll never look back! Good Luck!!

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Got the engine sat in place today. I sat the engine and trans on an old creeper that is very low to the ground. Sitting on the creeper the highest part of the engine was about 23 inches off the ground. Slid it under then pulled it up with the engine hoist and bolted the k-member on. Slid it under without the trans dipstick then re-installed it once it was under the car.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Got is sat in place pretty easily.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Now to the issue I have currently. The hawks 4L60E trans cross-member doesn't seem to fit well. Its very tight against the inside of the tunnel, had to tap it with a hammer to get it to slide in between the frame rails. I'm assuming the hole in the cross-member should line up with the center hole in the trans mount. In this case it doesn't, it lines up with the hole on the passenger side. Also the inside edge of the cross-member was rubbing against the transmission pan so I cut a notch in it. Seems to be sitting slightly crooked too.

I may just need to loosen everything back up and slide it around but the engine seems to be sitting perfect. Didn't have any time to play with the positioning yet. Anyone else have this issue? I was surprised that the trans cross-member fit so tight against the frame anyone else's fit that way?

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

I just bolted me engine and trans down and I had same issue idk if engine was off slightly or the crossmember I unbolted trans cross member then bolted everything up after wiggling trans a bit, just took a bit more time away from other things , im using poly engine and trans mounts also

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I'm pretty sure the Hawks cross member is the problem. I loosened the motor mounts and raised the engine and moved it around, it practically falls in place and is level...so I think the motor mounts are good.
I test fitted the headers today and they fit well, another indicator that the motor mounts are sitting right. Generally if the motor mounts are not right the headers will have clearance issues. This is a low mileage car that has never been wrecked so the frame isn't tweaked either. The engine seems to sit parallel to the frame on each side in the engine bay...all indications point to the hawks cross member.

I could force the trans mount bolt into the slot on the cross member if I used the passenger side hole on the mount as in the pic on the previous post. But to do that I had to loosen everything and pull the trans to one side as far as possible. When I did that it put everything in a bind and made everything a little crooked. It wouldn't go into the center hole at all no matter how it was adjusted. I drilled another hole in the cross member next to the slot for the transmission mount. I also elongated the slots for the bolts for the cross member to the frame. A couple of those bolts would barely go in and would bind also. I cut one corner off the inside of the cross member because it was causing binding in the trans tunnel. It still fits super tight but its better than it was. I'm still not happy with it but it will do for now. I either need to replace it or cut the center out of the cross member and put one slot in the correct location. It would probably be fine but I think with the 2nd hole bleeding over into the original slot the fit is probably a little too sloppy.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Yea I did same thing and I don't have any header clearance issues either , engine fits like a glove my trans was off less than 1/4 of inch to the rear and slight to the driver side about the same or alittle less I dont have exact measurements , its a tight fit tho , seems yours is a more off than mines was , I thought doing same thing using passenger side hold but center hole was the closest for me and it didnt feel right and to much of a bind using passenger side hole

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I almost think the center piece of the cross-member was flipped when it was made. I'm not sure what order they bend vs cutting the slot in but if the center bar was flipped(left to right) the slot would line up perfectly but then the angles cut in the ends would be backwards. Either way it doesn't matter, its still made wrong. Are you going to leave yours as is or cut the center section out and put the slot where its supposed to be?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Thats why I recommend building your own crossmember. Its really simple and will fit great since you build it on the car for that particular car. The notches on the K-member show you have the skills to do this

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

That's how I felt I flip it to make sure it was the right way lol head scratcher for a min

I'm going to extend the slot a little and call it a day

drduster

iTrader: (2)

My Hawks cross-member was a very tight fit between the frame rails too. Mine was off a little to one side for the trans mount bolt line up with the hole in the cross-member also. I loosened the bolts that hold the engine mounts to the k-member, then pried the transmission to the side until everything lined up. I always thought the bends in my cross-member looked a little funny, but it didn't matter to me since I was able to get everything to line up.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Your trans mount looks taller than mine. Mine is a prothane, same part# listed for a 2002 Camaro and and 1991 Camaro so I'm using the same one I had on the 700-R4. Interesting how much different the height looks.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

The drivers side header fits well. The passenger side is a little close to the frame. I borrowed a 3in V band clamp from a friend for mock up. It would work on the drivers side but the passenger side was too close so I tried a 3 bolt flange next. It cleared easily on the drivers side but wouldn't clear on the passenger side. I think I'll see if I can get a friend help me cut the end of the passenger side header off and put a sight bend in it to the inside to give it more clearance. I used 3 bolt flanges when I did the LS swap on the other car. The top bolt is hard to get to but they don't have the clearance issues that the V band clamps do.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I got the shifter linkage hooked up today. I used the bracket from the 700-R4. It's slotted unlike the bracket from the 4L60E. The 4L60E bracket had a ball on the end of it, didn't see anyway I could use it with the 3rdgen shifter cable. I bolted on the 3rdgen bracket and checked the adjustment a few times then tightened it down. I'm assuming this is what most people are using for the shifter linkage? Everything seems to line up ok, the shifter feels a little different with this trans but it functions.

drduster

iTrader: (2)

Mine is from Energy Suspension. I had it on my 700-R4 too. The mounts are all the same as far as I know.

drduster

iTrader: (2)

I cut about 1 1/2" out of the frame rails so I'd have room for the v-band clamps on the collectors.

IROCgiraffe

iTrader: (3)

Drduster,

I like the thought, but it appears that you may have severely weakened and affected the structural integrity of those rails in the event of a collision. Be careful.

drduster

iTrader: (2)

It's not weakened at all, just sectioned & re-welded. No weaker than before.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I finally got the header issue fixed. A 3 bolt flange worked fine on the drivers side. I may have to trim the shifter bracket a little to clear the exhaust pipe though.

The passenger side was a little more difficult. I had the end of the header cut off and a small bend tack welded on. I test fitted the header with the bend and marked where to cut and weld the 3 bolt flange on. Then took it back to the fabricator to have it final welded.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Also got a few other small things done. Took the pan off the trans and installed a new filter and fluid. The trans fluid actually looked pretty clean. The bottom of the pan looked a little weird(I'm guessing from the trans sitting for a couple of years) but very little metal and no chunks of stuff.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Got the brakes installed too. Unfortunately the caliper did not clear the wheel. The lettering of on the caliper hit the rim. After some experimentation with washers I found that it would require about a .200in spacer for clearance. The brake kit pushes the wheel out .3in and then with a .2in spacer its out about .5in further than before. Its hard to tell exactly how the tire will sit in relation to the fender lip at this point. Even with the car on the ground its sitting high in the front since the springs haven't settled and the lack of weight. Current front wheels are 17x8 with 4.5in backspacing, may have to go with 5in backspacing if it doesn't look right.

The quality of the kit from www.bigbrakeupgrade.com was great. Scott was great about answering some questions that I had.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Trans looks really clean do any upgrades to the trans since you took pan apart IE shift kit or leaving it stock did you put the converter in ? Make sure you clearance the converter to flex. If its with in acceptable range no need to use washer , I had to use washer on mines

The gap should be .060" and .187"*

wheels should tuck in some more when it fully settles and move car around

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

You're going to want more than a few washers clearance from rim to caliper. Wheels deflect during cornering and the last thing you want to happen is wheel to caliper contact

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I left the trans stock. If I ever pull it out for a rebuild I'll install a shift kit but I don't want to get to crazy with it since I want this to be a street cruiser. I installed the converter before installing the engine/trans into the car and checked the clearances as per the directions with the converter, no washers required.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

A few pics of the progress from last weekend, got nothing done this weekend.

Got the injectors, fuel rail, intake and most of the accessories installed. I spent a lot of time getting all that stuff cleaned up. I sent the injectors to South Bay for rebuild since this engine had sat for awhile. Good thing I did because several of them failed the initial testing.

The water pump and alternator are new, I got a pretty good deal on the water pump from Scoggin Dickey. They sell water pumps taken off new gm crate engines cheap. Good thing I took the thermostat housing off to inspect the pump though, it had a bunch of casting sand just behind the thermostat(see picture).

The original alternator felt a little rough when spinning it by hand, I figure a new one is cheap insurance. Using Jegs online price match as I able to get a powermaster for about the same price as a stock rebuilt one at the local auto parts store. Original jegs price was $252, price match for Street Performance was $166.

I couldn't get the 4th gen power steering hose to thread into my steering box but I think the threads on the hose may have been damaged already. I need to pick up some new hoses.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Got the Speartech wiring harness in, it fit very well. This harness allows you to put the ECM in the stock location and run the wires to it the stock route through the inner fender. I put some extra wire wrap on the parts of the harness ging through the fender well openings to give it some extra protection.

I ran the small wires(original 3rdgen part of the harness) that go to the starter over top of the engine and down under the headers, that seems like the way it wanted to lay. Did you guys do it that way or down the backside of the engine? I tried it both ways, for now I have it going down the front of the engine. Its more hidden down the back of the engine but that area is crowded with wiring harness, grounds, and heater hoses. You can't see it in the pics though, I hadn't done that yet when I took the pic.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I ordered new power steering hoses and got that done next. I used a 2002 Camaro LS1 hose on the high pressure side. For the return line I used a V6 4th gen hose. The V6 hose has the same fitting on it, I shortened the metal line slightly and used it for a more direct route than the LS1 hose would have been. LS1 hose is on the right, V6 hose is on the left.

Radiator and fans are now installed. I used 4th gen LS1 upper and lower hoses. I put the smaller end of the lower hose on the thermostat housing since its tapered, it fit tight but with a little oil it went right on. I tried several different lower hoses including the Silverado hose and Jeep Cherokee hoses but they didn't fit as well as the LS1 F-body hose.

Upper Hose Dayco E71981
Lower Hose Dayco C71982