Needing some help with picking out parts to start my LS swap. Plan on running stock tank with a walbro 255 with hot wire kit .stock fuel lines up to firewall. Which pump kit do I need? Appreciate the help

 

I used the hotwire kit and pump from Racetronix listed below.

http://www.racetronix.biz/customkiti...c=RFPK-005&eq=

If you plan on using LT headers on your swap you might want to reconsider using the stock lines in the trans tunnel, the headers will be pretty close to them. Not saying it can't be done but it will be a tight fit. I used the corvette regulator/filter and ran 6an teflon braided hose. I routed the fuel line up the subframe connector on the drivers side then inside the inner fender liner to the engine bay. That route will keep your fuel lines away from the heat. See post 66-68 if you want to see pics of how mine is routed.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...s1-swap-2.html

 

You don't need a pump kit. I don't see any point in the hot wire stuff, either.

But, I started with carb non-in-tank-pump cars, so maybe I'm unqualified to opine.

 

What route did you take? And mines a 91 tbi car.

 

Anyway you could send links for the parts you used?

 

Walbro 255 in a 3rd gen EFI pickup. I ran a dedicated wire (14 ga, if memory serves) from the 4th gen fuse/relay box in the engine compartment back to the tank. I had to redo the fuel line anyway, so I ran aluminum 3/8" tubing to a Vette filter/regulator, then up to the engine compartment.

 

Oh, I also wrapped the fuel line with heat tape where it starts to get close to the Y-pipe up to the engine compartment.

 

Usefull info thank you!

 

I bought everything in the Ractronix link (fuel pump, pump install kit, ground kit) in my first post except the pump booster connector. The pump is a Walbro GSS294M. The idea behind the hot wire kit is to increase the wire size to the pump to reduce the voltage drop and allow the pump to work at its full potentional.

 

So I dont need the booster? What does it do

 

What year vette reg/filter assembly? And where did you mount it. Would the fuel still get too warm if I wrapped the lines? I can understand why you suggest rerouting them though

 

You don't need the booster connector assuming this is a n/a engine. There are fuel pump voltage controllers that vary fuel pump voltage based upon manifold vacuum.

 

Oh ok. And yes, na for now. Im just trying to get one step at a time. Anything else I need to know about fuel system from tank to fuel rail? I really appreciate your imput. Seems like everyone I turn to for advise, act like im a burden and wasting their time. I just wana get the car done with no guess work lol.

 

The wrap shields the fuel lines from the heat. Heat wrap actually works pretty good to reduce temps but the further away from heat the better. There is a million different ways to route the fuel lines. You may want to get your engine in with the exhaust then decide which way works best with your combination of parts.

This is the vette filter/regulator you need if you go that route.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wix-33737

 

Awesome! Thank you very much

 

Going back to the pump. Did you use your stock tank? I ask bc ive been considering swapping in a 4th gen tank assembly. I like the fact that they utilize a built in charcoal canister and evap solenoid. They also have a 'bucket' surrounding the pump to keep the pump from starving. The 4th gen pump (I believe) has a built in regulator. That being said, could I just use the racetronix 255 kit for the 4th gen pump and still use the vette inline regulator/filter on top of the one in the tank? What are your thoughts on this?

 

I also sent you a message, concerning a few quick questions I have about your build. Appreciate the feedback!

 

I think in the Hotwire kit they run an 8 gauge wire from the back of the alternator to a relay they put in the back. I may be wrong on the 8 gauge, it's been a while since I have looked at it. Essentially reduces the voltage drop of the long run compared to the stock wiring in a 3rd gen, it's just enough to get by in the stock application. I believe the only place it would really be noticeable would be at WOT when the pump has to work the hardest. If you're close on the pumps maximum capacity then this kit will make sure you don't go lean on the upper end from voltage problems

 

Its about the same amount of effort using the stock thirdgen tank as it is the 4thgen tank. They both have advantages and disadvantages. There are some threads on here about using the 4thgen tank if you search for them. My thirdgen tank was in great shape so I used it.