1.) can't see in the pics but I hope you didn't fill the whole PHB support all the way down by where the 2 meet. As the PHB will literally push itself into the empty cavity in the upper bar.
2.) coil overs on the front you won't get the drop your probably thinking but ur going to prob want to support the strut tower with a STB at least. Coil overs on the rear ur going to need to weld the upper support plates to the inside frame bucket so be ready to strip the truck bed coating off and weld and paint again. Also u might want to fab up a lowering mounting the rear end side for the PHB mount. As soon as u lower it it's going to screw up the PHB angle and ur going to want to correct it.
Yeah i did mock up the upper pan hard bar without the springs and shocks it is close and i getting a kit that come with the plates and all just wish i had gone this way from the start
I am looking into that and a double bypass radiator thanks i can't wait to drive it again
double bypass is a bad idea. Requires something like 8x the pressure and 4x the flow. Basically cuts the rad in half and requires massive flow. It’s great in circle track by they are always spinning 6k+ and have tons of pump flow and airflow.
stick to a single crossflow design, dual 1” cores and a good dual fan puller with a shroud that covers 90% of the core and ur golden. High pressure flaps are prob a good idea but not necessary. I’ve run them and haven’t and don’t see much high speed cooking differences. I’m a big fan of OE style fans as they are usually much better besides Spal and the new derale stuff. Plus the OE stuff is much cheaper and usually have a integrated plastic shroud. I use Chevy traverse fans on my 27.5” core Afco rad and they cost me like $100 new. Putting a double bypass will hurt flow and cooling.
I seen people using the double pass didn't know much about them I'll stay with what I have if it runs normal temperature I'm also a fan of oem I like being able to get parts from many parts stores
