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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
Well, time to start a thread as the swap has begun. Been enjoying the Iroc over the years as I've been stockpiling parts. Finally, last year when changing out a t-stat, a housing bolt broke off and with no luck getting out, I said time to swap. Then before I could, I got married and bought a house with no garage so it would have to wait a few months. Now garage is built and it has begun.
305 is finally out
BMR kmember, a-arms, Lakewood 90/10's installed
Looks fast now lets make it fast
My friend welding up holes before paint
LQ4, D1SC, Brute Speed cam, Indiana Muscle Car brackets, Ebay studs, LS9 gaskets and yes belt isnt right
Hopefully next week I'll take car to get engine bay painted. Currently working on head studs, gaskets, paint the block and be ready to put in once car is back. I'll update as I go along.
That wheel/tire combo is right on the money. Looks fantastic!
Looks like you have a really good jump on things.
What were you going to do for a transmission?
Rearend?
Thanks. Yeah sorry Brewer on the pics. Progress is a little slow but progress.
Looks like a th400. I thought about a 4l80e but not sure about it. Will be a street/strip car so both would probably work but 400 be an easier swap. I have a 9" Moser that just needs axles and a case. Gonna run a 35 spline Wavetrac.
Trying to find a painter for my bay. My one guy is 3 weeks away and I hate to wait. Did get my head stud holes dry and put in my Ebay studs along with LS9 gaskets.
Nice! Stock 317 heads? Or did you do a mild port job? How much boost are you planning to run?
Heads up on the valve train... don't run retro sealed bearing trunions from anyone. There is along thread on LS1tech about how the bearings are chewing into the trunions and creating lots of fine metal particals. I would recommend straub bushing kit. If your running dual
Springs don't run the LS7 lifters. All in all looks like a nice build.
Thinking I might do a custom cam and ported heads on my 5.3 Or pick up a 6.0 and go all out. 12psi here and she's a lot of fun on a stock 5.3. Your 6.0 should be a good bit more powerful.
Nice! Stock 317 heads? Or did you do a mild port job? How much boost are you planning to run?
Heads up on the valve train... don't run retro sealed bearing trunions from anyone. There is along thread on LS1tech about how the bearings are chewing into the trunions and creating lots of fine metal particals. I would recommend straub bushing kit. If your running dual
Springs don't run the LS7 lifters. All in all looks like a nice build.
Thinking I might do a custom cam and ported heads on my 5.3 Or pick up a 6.0 and go all out. 12psi here and she's a lot of fun on a stock 5.3. Your 6.0 should be a good bit more powerful.
Thanks. Yes, stock 317's with BTE springs and stock lifters. Honestly, I've seen threads about the trunion kits but I don't know why I might need them. Guess I'll do some research. I'm hoping for at least 15 psi or enough to put down 600rwhp. I like the sound of that number haha. Really, if it runs mid 6's in the 1/8th, I'll be happy. I'm sure it will suprise me whatever it is.
I'm hoping that Brute Speed cam will do good. You might want to check it out. Ive thought about porting or aftermarket heads, but I guess consensus is just turn up the boost.
This weekend coming up, engine bay should be painted. Got the Ebay head studs on and torqued to about 66ft/lb (most people I saw with them online recommended close to this). So, next week looking forward to dropping engine in and moving forward.
BTE springs are the dual type? Only saying that the LS7 (stock replacement for all lifters) are terrible with high spring rates (dual springs) aftermarket cams with high lift and more aggressive lobes. You'll end up collapsing the lifter and taking out the cam. LS7 lifters are designed more mild factory cam lobes of the LS7 cam and the super light LS7 valves and retainers at stock spring pressures. Throw them into anything aftermarket and your asking for trouble. A lot of people get away with it for a while but a lot more horror stories of new $400 cams getting wiped out due to a destroyed lifter. Not worth it in my opinion. Plenty of options out their for better than stock replacements and not that much more expensive. I personally went with the morel 5315s and they are only a few bucks more than the LS7s.
What are your cam specs? I've had cam motion spec me out a custom cam for about $400 which I think are who do the BTR or Tick cams with comp cores. Either way would love to hear your specs if I decide to do a 6.0 build.
317s are pretty good and more boost always helps. But making more power with less boost is always better. Might be a good idea to clean up the bowl and the guides (remove swirl ramps) to help with turbulence. Should make a good bit more power with light port work.
If u got dual springs then u better not be running the stock pushrods or even 5/16 moly. You should be running a 11/32 or larger pushrods. 3/8" requires opening the head pushrod holes up. But the 11/32 are much stronger. 5/16 stock will flex a good bit with dual springs, moly 5/16 aren't much stronger than stock, only an increase in DIA or wall thickness will increase strength... not material.
Good luck with the eBay studs... hit or miss with them. A lot have great luck and some
Not so much. But when u get a bent one out of the box you can't trust the quality lol. You could have gotten away with ARP bolts if you kept the boost below 20 something psi. I don't think your 600rwhp should be hard to get. Depending on cam specs and other factors your going to have to make 750hp to get their. Porting the heads would help if your not going to spin higher to get the power. But the more boost you run the more things you have to worry about.
Honestly, I've seen threads about the trunion kits but I don't know why I might need them.
It is done for risk mitigation. If the stock roller bearings fail then the rollers can scatter into the engine. Rock-hard little rods flying around do a lot of damage to the engine. The trunion upgrade includes bearings with captured rollers that stay captured if the bearing fails.
LS7 lifters are fine up to 7000 rpm unless you are using heavy valve springs. A typical 0.650 spring is fine, but a 0.675 spring is probably too much.
Quick explained the rocker issues well and why it's done. In the case where the stock rocker fails it will cause lots of damage. Captured bearing retro kits won't let the roller bearings fall into the motor but will shed metal particals through your motor in a short while.
Given your aftermarket cam without the specs I would suggest you look into a bushing retro kit like the straub or run the stockers and hope None fail.
Quick explained the rocker issues well and why it's done. In the case where the stock rocker fails it will cause lots of damage. Captured bearing retro kits won't let the roller bearings fall into the motor but will shed metal particals through your motor in a short while.
Given your aftermarket cam without the specs I would suggest you look into a bushing retro kit like the straub or run the stockers and hope None fail.
Thanks Custom/Qwk. Here's cam card. It's said lifters aren't needed and I'm running Comp 7.4 pushrods, probably 5/16. Guess I'll look into trunion upgrade and if 11/32 pushrods would be better. Yes, BTR springs I have are dual and I think .650 lift, I'll have to verify and see.
I would like to have ARP studs, but didn't want to dish the money out. Like u said, some Ebay studs work and some dont. This isn't a built engine, so if she does grenade, when I build, I will use ARP.
So, replace stock lifters or leave them? What about all these guys just throwing boost to their 5.3/6.0's with studs and springs and being fine? Looks like I'll do some reading on that today.
Yesterday, I got my passenger side wheelwell bumpstop area cut away. I cut a little too high up, but after I weld in a plate, I should be okay. My beadlocks on backside were rubbing, plus I might put a 29" tire, maybe.
I'm going to be installing a D1SC and use the Indiana speed bracket. What did you do with the power steering a alternator bracket? I don't really want to pay the price for the procharger made relocation brackets. Trying to figure out a cheaper route.
I'm going to be installing a D1SC and use the Indiana speed bracket. What did you do with the power steering a alternator bracket? I don't really want to pay the price for the procharger made relocation brackets. Trying to figure out a cheaper route.
I used the Procharger alternator relocation bracket and I'm gonna run a manual steering box. There's another thread just a few down from mine where a member is using Procharger bracket for power steering. That's all I know or have seen.
Car is back from painter. Also, squeezed 3M Window Weld into my 4th Gen clamshell mounts to make them solid (just learned about that). Ready to fill the bay up now.
Haha window weld!? That does not make it a solid mount. It prob takes up some of the slack or movement in the rubber bushing in the clamshell but the metal is still encased in the rubber and you have basically just filled in the gap with a stiffer rubber. The rubber inner still makes all the same contact with the metal as it would normally.
Either go poly or get actual solid metal motor mounts.
Haha window weld!? That does not make it a solid mount. It prob takes up some of the slack or movement in the rubber bushing in the clamshell but the metal is still encased in the rubber and you have basically just filled in the gap with a stiffer rubber. The rubber inner still makes all the same contact with the metal as it would normally.
Either go poly or get actual solid metal motor mounts.
What? So what I saw online isn't true haha. On Motor Trend You tube channel they built a low buck turbo 5.3 Camaro. This is what they did so figured I would try it since I already had the mounts.
What? So what I saw online isn't true haha. On Motor Trend You tube channel they built a low buck turbo 5.3 Camaro. This is what they did so figured I would try it since I already had the mounts.
LOL sorry bud, That does not make it a solid mount. Most of the twisting motion of a motor is rotational... so the thick rubber in the middle of the mount is sandwiched between the 2 metal half's is the part that stops the motor from rotating. The actual inner "bushing" doesn't rotate in the clam shell to stop the motor. Since that rubber is still the same material that stays consistent. Your "window weld" in the open areas doesn't actually affect the bushing during its resistance to the twisting of the motor. The as the rubber deteriorates the inner bushing can slide down a bit in the clam shell and thus your motor can actually sit lower in the car. This is why upgrading to poly or solid will usually raise the motor compared to its current high mileage stock state. What you did will limit the "drop" over time mostly. That window weld is used for replacing windshields... I know bc I watched a guy do mine on my 87 bird and he used the same stuff. Drys stiff/hard but it has to have some flex otherwise windshield would crack as it heated (expanded) and cooled (contracted). It even says Urethane on the tube lol... which is the same stuff basically that poly bushings are made from. Stiffer than rubber but NO where near SOLID.
Here's wat you need to do...
1.) stop believing stuff on the net lol
2.) disassemble your stock clam shells
3.) spend $70 on poly 82-92 mounts
4.) swap into your stock clam shells and zip tie together
5.) swap those instead. I wouldn't trust rubber in higher HP situations
Or get solids and forget all about it. I run solids on my supercharged 5.3 and its only street driven... vibrations aren't much if any. I actually still have poly swapped Stock engine mounts with the clam shells i believe if you want them, id sell them to you. Ran them for like 1000 miles on a 383 HSR build. I run solids now bc its easier for me.
Hey did u try to put the hood on yet I have the same set up in my 87 iroc I had to clearance the wheel well to get my blower lower to keep it off the hood
Stock k memeber
I actually used the procharger lsx kit so u may not have to clearance the wheel well
Last edited by TeeBee8125; 11-13-2016 at 07:55 PM.
customblackbird, So how long have you been running the solid mounts? I'm interested that may be a nice option for my clearance issues.
With the LS 5.3 supercharged... about 300miles street only on shitty roads beating the **** out of it. Before the 5.3 was a 521 BBF which I had in for 4 years about... only street miles and 1 track outing. before that was a 383 HSR with the poly mounts. No real increase in vibrations with the solid mounts on both motors. But it really depends on your setup and your level of comfort you can feel. I'm very sensitive to drone and harmonics so I can usually pick up on that stuff. I have no vibration issues with the solid mounts and I get a slight vibration during a weird rpm on cold start that lasts about 30s which is prob a harmonic at a certain rpm and timing etc. but after that it's good and never feel it again. It also doesn't happen everytime.
Judging by my experience thus far I won't be going back to poly or rubber. I got a rougher ride from suspension mods.
I will say transmitting vibrations might be more in the motor combo and tune. A rough Lopey idle might provide more vibration at idle.
Not trying to hijack indebt's thread but thanks for the reply customblackbird, I installed poly mounts in my clamshells for my build. I was amazed at how cheesey the rubber isolators were in the clamshells though. Still only have about .100" of clearance with my pan to K-member on the right side, guess I need to notch the K or buy solids. Kind of tired of buying parts over and over again though.
NO problem. Moroso sells drop in stock style solids for our cars. The 3rd gens have a different bolt spacing than all SBC before. So regular cheap solid mounts don't work unless modded. That's what I did but I think the moroso are like less than $100 for both the block side and kmember side.
Hey did u try to put the hood on yet I have the same set up in my 87 iroc I had to clearance the wheel well to get my blower lower to keep it off the hood
Stock k memeber
I actually used the procharger lsx kit so u may not have to clearance the wheel well
Not yet. I'm hoping it clears. Even though it's heavy, I like the stock hood on the car. Just kinda eyeing everything, I think it will be okay, fingers crossed.
I agree. I had a 4" cowl glasstek hood on mine and the fit finish was very good. I just removed it for a stock turbo trans am hood (forumula power bulge) and like it much more. The weight isn't really a bad thing. But I had to make some changes to my motor setup just to get the stock hood to close (new small case Alt and had to remove the truck 5.3 engine cover I made). But not that bad. Judging by your pics I think you'll be fine. I dont think your going to have an issue. But the driver side mount supercharger makes mounting a filter very difficult. Your going to have to run a stubby filter or a screen. Pass side would open things up alot. But If I can get the LS truck intake to fit under the stock firebird hood then you should be good.
I dont think its been asked but what are you going to run for a fuel system? Really depends on your boost/hp output but I think your out of territory of a 255lph high pressure. Your going to need a boost referenced regulator and a min of a 320lph/340 or a 450 or something that can handle 700-800 boosted HP. So you might want to look into a larger return line too to help with fuel bleed off at idle and lower rpm if you go big on the pump.
I agree. I had a 4" cowl glasstek hood on mine and the fit finish was very good. I just removed it for a stock turbo trans am hood (forumula power bulge) and like it much more. The weight isn't really a bad thing. But I had to make some changes to my motor setup just to get the stock hood to close (new small case Alt and had to remove the truck 5.3 engine cover I made). But not that bad. Judging by your pics I think you'll be fine. I dont think your going to have an issue. But the driver side mount supercharger makes mounting a filter very difficult. Your going to have to run a stubby filter or a screen. Pass side would open things up alot. But If I can get the LS truck intake to fit under the stock firebird hood then you should be good.
I dont think its been asked but what are you going to run for a fuel system? Really depends on your boost/hp output but I think your out of territory of a 255lph high pressure. Your going to need a boost referenced regulator and a min of a 320lph/340 or a 450 or something that can handle 700-800 boosted HP. So you might want to look into a larger return line too to help with fuel bleed off at idle and lower rpm if you go big on the pump.
Same people I got bracket from modify's my sender for twin 340's for stock tank. I think the whole kit, lines, fittings, etc is about $1500. Probably go that route. I'll probably use stock rails so that will save a tad. Does 80lb injectors sound about right? Also got a Cobalt 2bar map sensor.
I doubt your going to need that much pump honestly... prob could do dual 255s and be fine at your power levels. I plan to push my Aeromotive stealth 340 to about 650 boosted HP on 93 pump gas. but its keeping up so far at about 550 crank HP at 70psi fuel pressures.
Jeez $1500... ouch and I'm assuming that doesnt include the pumps? How do they modify the stock sender cap for the line increases? Got a link? I know people throw twin 250 and 340 in our tanks for very little compared to that price tag.
What power are you looking at? I think if you stay under 800hp crank you'll be fine with a 450lph bosch. 600-700 boosted is the max for a 340lph I think. Biggest hurtle is the fuel pressure at the top of your boost. My base is set at 58psi... 12psi boost later I'm pushing 70psi fuel pressure. Huge difference in flow between 58psi and 70psi.
I wouldnt run the stock cobalt 2 bar... lots of confusion if its a 2bar or 2.5 bar... and I believe the verdict was that it was a 2.5 bar. Just get the GM 2 bar sensor... says it right on the sensor and no guessing... mine works flawlessly... dont get the cheap ebay chinese ones... I got one and after testing the voltages it was wayyy off and all over the place. Unless you think your going to run more than 14-15psi then you should get a 3 bar or a real 2.5bar (depends on your tune tho and if you can run 2.5 bar etc)... my HPT pro came with 2 bar and 3 bar OS... I picked the 2bar, didnt see a 2.5 bar option.
Injectors is based off HP... again whats your expected HP output at full boost? I got 60lb bosch LS1 fuel injectors flow matched from FIC, John stated they were 60lb at 43psi... so at 58psi they are really 72lb and said i would max these out at about 800hp. Are your 80lb injectors rated at 43 or 58psi? THe other issue is getting larger injectors to idle correctly... they dont like short pulses and low rpm. I think John at FIC stated that 80lb would be overkill and the 72lb would give me no problem with idle quality.
Here's a cheaper route...
You will wire for two pumps (can get it all from racetronics if you dont want to mess with it). 1st pump on upgraded harness/wiring, 2nd pump activated off Hobbs switch.
Get a racetronics 2 pump billet adapter... clamp 2 pumps on your stock sendor. drill out the return line and install a -6 fitting. Then run pushlock 250psi fuel rated hose (fragola not summit) to your boost referenced regulator. I wouldnt be worried about feed line size... -6 or 3/8" can handle something like 1200hp since its under such high pressure (Efi and boost).
Get aftermarket cheap aluminum LS1 fuel rails (paid $35 for mine but they were made in the USA with NPT ports), it will make your life easier to plumb to the regulator and back to the tank. Stock to AN adapters have been known to fail/leak.
Thanks again, good tips. Power output is basically as much as I can get out of it. I don't want to leave any on the table yet I don't want to push it where it won't last long. Probably lean towards push than save. My last car, 69 Camaro with 6.0/Kennebell put down 556rwhp at about 12psi and it's been fastest I've ever had. So, 600 might be good for me, but when I go to the track, I'm trying to make the fastest pass I can, so want as much as I can get.
No link on that kit, and yeah I know, it's a little high. He just text me awhile back and mentioned it when I asked about a fuel system. Looks like your recommendation is easy enough and cheaper, so that's good.
Yeah, I read about all confusion of Cobalt. Isnt a 3 bar a little harder to tune at lower boost levels? Thought up to 15 was good for 2bar and even 17/18 would still be okay for it.
Haven't bought injectors yet, so I'll call FIC and see what they might recommend. Sounds like the 72lb would be good enough. I don't want to run out of injector, but yeah I know too much presents problems as well. Also, trying to buy parts in case I get a bigger blower, which in turn lower boost, yet higher hp.
Plan on 93, with meth, and intercooler. What's your thoughts? No need for cooler with meth or definitely both?
Eh, hard to give you a response on that. Really depends on the motors capabilities... given the custom cam and a blower (no one gave you any boost numbers on that combo?) If you put out 12psi you could put 650-700hp crank depending on how well the parts are matched. Longevity is all in the tune and RPMS. You dont really want to spin a stock motor that high. I know the early 5.3s had rod bolts that didn't like to be spun higher than 6000ish. Keep the RPM down and keep the tune safe and you should be good.
The way you choose a MAP sensor is to get as close to your max PSI you plan to run. 2 bar MAP sensors are technically maxed out around 15psi What sucks is if you go over 15psi your sensor is maxed out (can't read anymore and thus the voltage remains constant) so if you run 18psi on a 2 bar you have no tuning for that last 3psi which could spell disaster as your not able to modify fuel and timing so your guessing. IF your planning to run 15psi then I would think 2 bar is fine as you get MAX resolution... Stepping up from 2 bar to 3 bar you loose resolution (wider spread of PSI per voltage point) so if you dont need the 3 bar then dont do it. 1 bar or atmosphere is 14.7psi, so 2 bar is double that.
72lb would be maxed out at 800hp, You technically dont want to run them over 80% Duty cycle but I would get the specs from John at FIC. Be specific about fuel pressures, expected HP (hes going to need that) and idle quality. You prob would need 72lb at 43psi or 80lb at 58psi to be safe. 600rwhp is like 750 crank HP with a 20% drivetrain loss. Injectors is one of those things that kind of sucks... bc they are really only good for a certain power range... say you get 72lb and then crank up the boost and increase HP by 100hp you could push yourself past their limit and now you need larger injectors. So I would pick injectors based on your future goals.
I'm pretty sure that a larger blower wont decrease your boost levels. Boost is a measure of restriction. So a larger blower will push more air at a given RPM if nothing else changes. Since blowers are fixed ratios (can only change speed with pulley size) stepping up from a smaller blower to a larger one without changing the blower speed will result in higher Boost levels. Since the engine can't consume anymore air without making the motor more efficient. Say your blower puts out 15psi on your current setup, the only way to decrease boost PSI (restriction) is to increase efficency of the motor. So putting highflowing heads (or ported heads) will decrease the restriction and make more power while decreasing boost PSI at the same RPMS. My blower is maxed out at 12psi, Since I'm putting ported heads and a cam I expect to drop a few psi but gain 100-150hp due to the changes making the engine more efficent. Im pretty sure a larger blower would increase PSI as the motor is still the same restriction as it hasn't been changed. Power increases only come in the form of added boost/fuel and efficency. MAking the motor more efficent thus decreases the restriction (boost). So maybe a larger cam, better heads and a bump in displacement will increase HP while lowering boost.
I run 93 pump, a A2A FMIC and 750ml of 50/50 meth. Both definitely aren't needed but I drive my car only on the street in hot NJ 100*F summers and I run shitty 93 pump gas. I like the safety that both give me. The FMIC lowered IATs considerably around town. The Meth is hard to measure the drop but you can feel it kick on. Esp bc I'm spraying pre Supercharger and after my FMIC. Plus if I get a bad batch of gas I dont waste the motor. I found that meth wasn't enough for the street and I would see 160-190*F IATs all the time and the ECM was pulling timing. FMIC drops IAT temps to 100-130*F before the meth. But the FMIC increased my engine temps but I have a TA and your camaro has a open bumper so you get more airflow. You could prob be fine with a A2W but its more plumbing, a pump and you need a decent reservoir and a heat exchanger. I like the meth bc of the octane bump and when your pushing as much boost as us on 93 you want more octane and you want to run more timing. I had a old snow kit I reused so it didnt cost me anything but a pump, nozzle and progressive controller can be had for less than $300 easily.
Well, talked with Bob at Brute Speed (where I got cam), and he's saying about 15 psi should give me approx 725 rwhp with my setup. Probably be less with 9" and th400, but sounds like a good starting point. Plus, that's probably max boost I really need to run so I can drive for awhile before it might grenade.
Now I'll use your good info to go forward.
Any wiring tips? I've separated my old harness, read the stickies and researched. Guess I'll be doing cutting soon. Luckily my LS harness has already been sorted through.
Also, I think I'm gonna run a 3.50 gear in my 9". That should help driving the th400 on the street. Any recommendations there?
Well, talked with Bob at Brute Speed (where I got cam), and he's saying about 15 psi should give me approx 725 rwhp with my setup. Probably be less with 9" and th400, but sounds like a good starting point. Plus, that's probably max boost I really need to run so I can drive for awhile before it might grenade.
Now I'll use your good info to go forward.
Any wiring tips? I've separated my old harness, read the stickies and researched. Guess I'll be doing cutting soon. Luckily my LS harness has already been sorted through.
Also, I think I'm gonna run a 3.50 gear in my 9". That should help driving the th400 on the street. Any recommendations there?
725rwhp! Dayuum! Hes figuring about 900hp with 20% drivetrain loss. But since you have the 2 biggest power eaters (th400 and 9") your prob on the higher side of 25-27% drivetrain loss. Given the same 900hp at 25% your at like 675ish rwhp. Either way it doesnt matter as you really only care about crank HP for all your fuel calculations and methanol/IC sizing. Either way... 900hp on 15psi is pretty high.
So your def going to need like 80lb injectors at 43psi for that much power prob... John will set you straight tho.
My OE harness was all hacked from when my car was stolen. But I used a OE 5.3 LS harness and converted it to stand alone. Pretty simple, theirs a site with all the harness mods to do it. And its worked great. I run all aftermarket gauges though and like you don't run an electronic trans (2004r). basically its a 4-5 wire hookup. Make sure you follow it and verify all good contacts and grounds... electrical bugs will drive you nuts.
Yes... dont go 3.50 rear gear lol. Superchargers/turbos need really tall rear gears to help with breaking loose. I would go closer to 3.08 but 3.23ish being the lowest. 3.50 when boost hits is going to smoke those tires and make driving really scary esp with the power your making. Alot of high HP forced induction guys will even go 2.73 to help. with the boost you dont have the same issues like NA applications. I run 3.55s in my ford 8.8 but this was left over from my other builds. 3.55 with 550hp or 440ish rwhp its not hard to break the tires loose on a mash or kickdown. I will be going 3.08ish when I get a custom rear built. anthese is in a simular situation and gets no traction as his gears are too low.
I don't think he recommends doing 15psi even though he didnt say not too. He tried to see how long his ls1 lasted on 15 and 650 rwhp. One dyno day and 2 track days before it cracked #7 piston. That was with stock cam also. So, maybe I'll back down just a tad.
What radiator/fan you running? My buddy loves his Taurus fan. Moves some air!!
He prob broke the piston bc he didnt gap the rings for boost. Happens all the time bc the factory ring gaps are too tight for forced induction. You either have to tear the pistons out and gap all the rings or you have to get a really high mileage motor and due to wear the gaps are alittle wider. Since he was running the stock cam i highly doubt he took the time to remove everything to gap the rings. to lower the psi of the blower you can only adjust pulley size, or you can add a wastegate and vary/control boost that way.
was running a HOWE 2 core aluminum universal 28x19 with a MARK VIII fan with top of the line controller and it did great. I'm actually selling my fan setup if you interested. Its got 100 miles on it, brand new 2 speed Mark VIII fan with brackets to mount to most rads, new Fan plug, wired into a hollister 2 speed fan controller (high end peice) made in the USA, 3 relays (40/ 60ampers) and uses a relay block and weather proof fuse block. Selling for $200 shipped, got about $250 in parts alone. High speed pulls some serious air lol. Ive swapped out the rad and got something bigger so I stepped up to derale dual fans and shroud combo.
The Mark VIII is the big brother of the taurus fan and will move more air.
Last edited by customblackbird; 11-15-2016 at 02:55 PM.
Hey man thanks for the coupon for BMR, just ordered my K member I really appreciate it!! We'll have to meet up when both of our cars are done, I'm right outside of Evansville Indiana. I'm definitely subscribed to your build. I have one going on LS1Tech (same username I believe) if you ever wanna check it out. Also what tire are you running? I am thinking about 275/50/15
Hey man thanks for the coupon for BMR, just ordered my K member I really appreciate it!! We'll have to meet up when both of our cars are done, I'm right outside of Evansville Indiana. I'm definitely subscribed to your build. I have one going on LS1Tech (same username I believe) if you ever wanna check it out. Also what tire are you running? I am thinking about 275/50/15
Awesome, glad I could help. Did u get a-arms as well? They usually do Black Friday sale, so if not, be on the lookout. That's when I got mine last year. Yeah, always on LS1tech so I'll check it out. I'm running 275/60/15. It looks much better than 50. Here's my old setup on a 275/50
At first thought 60 was too big, but after seeing my old setup on my buddy's car, I like the 60 better
Awesome, glad I could help. Did u get a-arms as well? They usually do Black Friday sale, so if not, be on the lookout. That's when I got mine last year. Yeah, always on LS1tech so I'll check it out. I'm running 275/60/15. It looks much better than 50. Here's my old setup on a 275/50
At first thought 60 was too big, but after seeing my old setup on my buddy's car, I like the 60 better
No I didn't get A Arms, I was going to get the coilover/A-Arm kit and it wasn't in the funds to get those with the K right now but my car is up on wood stands so I can afford the time to save up some money for it but I'll definitely check out the Black Friday sale. And hmmmm I think I'll be going with 60s then that looks so much better. Although it makes me wonder, would that not be too big of a tire for me? I will probly have between 400-450 rwhp, I'm just unsure if that'd be too tall for what I've got? Thanks a lot for the advice man!
Gosh its been awhile. Like to say much has been done, but it's not. Have a 9 month old little girl at home so not as much time as before. I just work half the month on 12 hr swing shifts so I watch her quite a bit. Get out there during nap time. So let's see....
Got the LS harness in but not really hooked up. Redid my coil pack wires to run connector to the end not middle. Ended up stopping on wiring cause my basic knowledge of wiring and how to setup distribution block and what not is unfortunately not the best.
So, took out rear end, gas tank and finished cutting other wheel well out where it sticks out. I bought another third gen tank with a Aeromotive 340 in tank, -12 AN fitting on bottom for Aeromotive Pro Series pump, and -8AN fitting for return. Pro Series and 340 go into a Y block, then -10 up front. It's way overkill but got a good price on it all. Just need to buy rails and regulator, I think I'll get from Lonnies Performance. Fuelab stuff looks good. Gas tank is in, but lines and pump aren't mounted.
Bought Strange single adjustable shocks for rear, and installed.
Working on my manual brakes.com kit. I drilled the hole in the brake pedal, moving it up 2" and I drilled 2" hole in original master cylinder location to line up. Using a 24mm master, but not sure on what brakes I'm running. I have double beadlock wheels and it might be tough to find what clears.
My 9" has a center section, but no axles. Seems most of the time you need to know brakes to order axles, but don't know what's gonna clear. I bought Speedway weld on caliper mounts but afraid they won't work.
Installing the 2" Stainless work headers the other day and used wrong header bolt. Once realized I backed it out but broke it. So, head came off, drilled it out, retapped and I think I'm good to go.
Still need a th400 but they arent cheap. Thought about a built th350 but afraid it might not hold up and I hate to do things twice. Did buy a ProTorque converter that i hope will be a nice addition.
That's about it. Lack of money and time slows the project. I think if I get it where I could start the car, it would really motivate me even more so might try to do that.
I know no pics aren't fun, so I'll try to take some next day or so.
Well sort of. I actually started the car awhile back, although I still have stuff to do. I'm currently getting it ready to do a 10pt moly cage and run all new brake lines. After that, it shouldnt be much more unless I change something, and that is likely lol. Here's what is done
Any updates in here? Im gonna be doing the same setup more or less. Any links to these cheaper "Indiana Muscle Car"/"Indiana Speed" (or what ever) procharger brackets?
Just be careful of what you buy. Indiana Muscle Car brackets are built strong and right. I know Procharger actually refers third gen owners to them for their brackets. Not much updates. I've torn the interior out and the car is at my buddies garage for him to do my 10pt cage.
This is a startup a few months ago. Just wanted to hear the Procharger for a bit
09-22-2016, 04:49 PM
