When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
I think I finally have the fuel fittings that will work. The Earls fittings are slightly slimmer than the other fittings I’ve gotten. I’m still using the ones from fassterllc elsewhere where there is more clearance.
The 3/8 Earls fitting however was quite tight on the 3/8 line on the filter, but the 5/16 went right on. I’m wondering if my filter is what’s causing the problems and not the fittings, but I’ve got it together now. I think I’ll buy acdelco next time to compare.
photos below show size difference with the fassterllc. All the others have been returned.
Some decent trial and error there. Thanks for sharing, I'm sure folks will find it helpful. I don't plan to use AN from the fuel filter back, but my build is pretty mild.
Got and installed BTR pushrods, 7.400” with 0.080” wall. Engine is really about ready to drop in.
Also bought new hatch struts, but once again buying cheap has resulted in some fitment issues. I ordered the FCS 84900 which says for spoiler or wiper. The problem is the tab/terminal for the rear defrost is too close to the strut end, so the trim cap can’t go on. It also stretches the wire to its limit. I may be able to just rebend the tab to make it work. Rockauto is sending me a couple more but I’m sure they’ll be the same. You can actually see in the photos on the site the tab is not in the right place on all the FCS struts compared to every other brand.
I strongly discourage use of 5/16" Pushrods (especially at only 0.080" Wall thickness) unless a stock or very mild Build.
Sorry, I skimmed through Your Thread again...
But would You refresh my memory...
What are you using for a Camshaft, Valves/ Cylinder-Heads, Valve-Springs, and what is the intended RPM range?
Even just going to 11/32" Pushrods from BTR would be an improvement...
My general rule of thumb here, is to use the largest-diameter and thickest-Wall that will physically fit.
Just about every Cylinder-Head that I sell; I will drill for 3/8" Pushrods.
Also a 210-Degree Ball is ideal when the Pushrod angles are changed/ moved.
Manton or Trend 3/8" 210-Ball Pushrods are my go to.
My big brake kit will be here soon. Scott is a bit backed up right now, I think website now says new orders will be 3-4 weeks out. I actually sent my spindles to him over a month ago but I wasn’t in a hurry and told him as much. He was responsive and helpful when I had questions. Attached is my order showing what I am getting and the total cost. Total was $658 including shipping both ways and using my factory spindles. Standard hub, 1LE upgrade, stainless lines, moser studs.
I haven’t been doing much because my suspension is apart and I didn’t want something to shift and throw my springs out at me. I have been doing some rear end work. Still have rear brakes to put together as well so I’ll post pics of all that together once it’s done.
Front brakes installed with the brake upgrade kit. I rebuilt the calipers. All new seals and hardware. Still need to install lines, have new stainless soft and hard lines to run, as well as fourth gen master and booster. I’m still in the process of figuring out what prop valve I need to get this back together. I have the stock one but if there are any recommendations I’d love to hear them. Otherwise I have some more research to do.
When I converted to the LT1 I did exactly what you describe. My 84 didn't have wiring, fuses, or relays for many of the electrical accessories that needed to be added to the car, So I swiped an under-hood fuse/relay center from a 4th gen and ran all the additional electrical stuff ( Fuses and relays for Fans, Fuel Pump, Water Pump, Fog Lights, PCM, ect..... ) thru that. In my case any un-needed wiring was removed and PCM commands were programmed out of the PCM, but as long as the wires are well insulated they can get left in place and just hidden inside the looms.
This might help:
C100 for the 84 Berlinetta ( Drivers side firewall ) :
Here is the C207 wiring ( ECM harness thru pass side fender to dash harness )
** There are 2 things that make a 84-86 Berlinetta C100 ( ENGINE harness ) specific to only those cars and unlike any other Thirdgens:
1) There are 2 VSS wires for the electronic speedo sending unit
2) The Window Wiper Assembly Plug/Wiring
Did you cut up your original Engine harness yet ??? If not; I'm pretty sure that I've got a partially hacked Berlinetta C100 engine side connector. If your interested in it send me a PM,... if I hear back from you I'll dig it out for inspection to see what kind of shape it's in. You know what; I think I might still have a spare 4th gen fuse/relay center too....... ?!?
<Edit> P.S. Pull the engine and tranny at the same time. I pull drive-trains solo,.........it's just easier to pull them out together. The front of the engine will need to be very high to make pulling them out as 'smooth' as possible.
Originally Posted by John in RI
On the Tranny wires,..... how you deal with the tranny VSS wires is gonna' depend on the tranny that you decide to use. The 700R4 in your car now uses a 84-89 electric speedo sending unit. The speedo signals go from the tranny to the Speedo Buffer Box, then out to the ECM, Cruise Control, and Digital Cluster.
If you plan to retain the original digital cluster and use a 700R4 then you're probably all good- at least as far as the speedometer readout. ( I'm not sure if or how the 4.8 PCM speed signal needs to be handled with an auto tranny car. ) I swapped to a T56 using a stock 4th gen speedo sending unit in the tranny and in order to get the digital speedo working properly I removed the stock Speedo Buffer Box and replaced it with a Dakota Digital SG5.
Hello, thanks for the thread! I wish I would have found it sooner. I'm at the point of connecting the PSI harness to the dash. Where is the buffer box that you mentioned? I'm confused as to what wire to connect the ECU to. TIA.
The Speed Buffer box is a Yellow box that's usually under the dash or behind the kick panel on the drivers side in the Berlinetta. Looks like this:
Your wiring is going to be custom to your build. The 84 did not have many things ( Fuses / /Relays / Circuits) for things that more modern cars do so you will need to add them according to your build. For stuff like a electric fuel pump, electric fans, Injectors, etc... )
Thank you. I do have a relay/fuse panel for the fuel pump and the electric fans. I only have a Haynes manual for the moment and the diagrams are good but not great. It's a later edition so I focuses on the newer fuel injected models.
