So, I hadn't planned on starting this yet, but I am picking up an engine next week and ended up buying some swap components today. eBay is running a promotion for 20% off ANYTHING with code PSPRING20 for today so I took advantage.

Plan so far:
-truck engine
-using 700r4 for now to be upgraded to a t56 at a later date
-tubular k member (I have no fabrication skills)
-learn as I go. First ls swap but I want to jump right in.

So I ordered my LS1 oil pan kit from Jegs ebay store ($206.58) and the Speed Engineering headers from their ebay store ($298) and with the 20% off that was $398 for both. Not bad.

My question now is that I want to buy a K-member today from Hawk's ebay store and I'm having trouble finding the right one, particularly using the ebay store to do so. There are several part numbers listed for the Spohn.

Here is the ebay link to their k-members:
http://stores.ebay.com/Hawks-Third-G...r+82-92+camaro

What's the difference between the 703 and 704? Some are listed as SP-704 or DP-704, what is the meaning of this?

I will be keeping factory A-arms and AC, I believe I can relocate AC but just throwing it out there.

Also, would these be the right motor mounts for the Spohn K-member:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Camaro-Fire...-/311817032827

So I ordered this k member using the ebay code again to get $100 off. Pretty nice.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F381931763175

Should be the right one I think.

I made another ebay account. A lot easier than I thought it would be, you can link up to 8 accounts to the same PayPal. With the headers and oil pan I added both to cart so it was one order even though it was different sellers it was applied to both items.

So thanks to another spring ebay code for 15% off (pspringtime) max of $50 I ordered the CORRECT oil pan this time from Hawks on ebay. $320 after discount for the kit.

Just need motor mounts now to actually get the engine in the car, and was curious about the clamshells which Hawks sells in pairs for $188 and rock auto has mounts for $72 a piece for the ac Delco, but there's also several options as low as $23 for the clamshells. Is it worth getting the Delco parts or does it make a difference? Does anyone have experience with the cheap ones?

Link to them on rock auto:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...tor+mount,5552

I was tempted once again by a 20% off code on ebay. Got motor mounts, water pump spacer, and alternator/ps bracket to drop the alternator. I didn't want to do a low mount alternator because I wanted to avoid tapping my block. $80 for the mounts from Hawks, $24 for the water pump spacer and $150 for the accessory bracket, both from "lsx innovations" on ebay. Mocked it up on the engine, looks pretty good. Don't have my accessories yet. Ac compressor will stay low mount.

Well I finally got my engine out. Not too exciting of an update for you all but I'm very happy to have finally gotten this done so I can get to the fun part. What I did to free it up was take off the oil pan, lift up the engine tranny up enough to pull the pan out, and unbolt the seized pistons from the crank. From there I was able to get all the torque converter bolts out. I just pulled the block out the top, didn’t even have to remove the hood since I had it torn down to the block anyway.

So while I work on dropping the k member and suspension parts, I've ordered some more toys from rock auto. I got a TYC starter and alternator, never heard of them but they have a lifetime warranty so I'll hold them to that. Also got my engine side motor mounts, and valve cover and intake gaskets and new idler pulley. Still need some more various parts here and there but the list is thinning out. I am leaving the original suspension components for now, I really wanted to go ahead and replace everything but I decided to save my money for swap issues that will probably come up. Maybe in the spring I will replace it all but I am just doing the minimum to get this engine running in the car for now so I can get inspected.

What hardware should I replace vs reuse? I am guessing I should get new flex plate to torque converter bolts, what about the bellhousing bolts? Motor mount bolts? Can I just reuse the long bolts from the sbc or are the different sizes? I have all new hardware for the k member and intake. I’m not disassembling the engine other than the new intake going on and valve covers replace just to check things out up top.

I’ve got an exhaust stub broken off in the head. Trying to figure out my best course of action here. Tried drilling out the stud and using a screw extractor, but the extractor broke off in the stud (studception??)

I can’t weld and don’t have a welder. My options are to find a friend, take it somewhere, or buy a new head, either a replacement 862 or upgrade to the 243s or something. I didn’t really want to spend that much though.

Any my tricks for getting it out without a welder and is it worth doing vs just getting a replacement 862 head for $110 on eBay? Or should I just bite bullet and get better heads now, or even a new engine, 5.3 or something?


Easiest option, what if I just ignore the bolt and leave it out of the headers? I mean I'm sure it'll leak but it'll allow me to work out the swap and worry about the heads later.

Will do.

Taking my front struts out today so I can drop the k member and I got one, the other strut stud sheared off 😑

What's the best way to get it out now? Can I just unbolt it from the spindle and pull the assembly out the top?

Apparently I'm not very good with an angle grinder. Couldn't make a good slot. Ended up hitting it some more with an impact wrench and eventually it started to turn so got it popped off that way. It soaked overnight with some PB blaster.

Also got some bolts cleaned up, soaked in degreaser then vinegar (some skipped the degreaser). Soaked overnight and today I scrubbed them. Came out pretty well. They certainly don't look 34 years old. These are the control arm bolts and motor mount bolts.

And another positive note, I got my power steering pump today. My engine didn't come with a ps pump, alternator, or the bracket. The other day I ordered a pump on ebay from LKQ, a company I'd never heard of. Funny enough, I saw an LKQ truck today running around Kentucky. Anyway, I bought that particular one because it showed the pulley with it. Since mine didn't have anything, to buy new I would have to buy a pulley ($20) plus a new pump PLUS core charge since I don't have an old pump. Well, I bought this for $38 assuming it would come with the pulley. Not only did it come with the pulley, it had the bracket and idler pulley as well. It was well worth it, even if this pump with 111k miles doesn't last because it will save me a core charge and get me a pulley.

Awesome! Do you know if it clears the stock thirdgen hood? Looks like it should. Sure beats buying a whole f body accessory drive.