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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
FWIW @ShiftyCapone , when I had mine and it wasn't "working" for the smog test, I didn't have any noticeable smell outside the car. It seems to have been doing enough without lighting off to do some small good. I had to get it to pass smog, and I had the space to move the cats, so I did. That said, having thought about it since then my only concern with leaving it in place if there wasn't a smog test was possible clogging of the cat if it wasn't lighting off. Was just a small concern based on no research though.
I think you'll be fine. Infrared thermometer will tell you if they're working and it's a cheap tool. Definitely ping me if/when you measure it.
Minor update. Things turned south working with the shop where my car was. They started ghosting me and not responding to any form of communication. This went on for about 2 weeks until I found out that their main fabricators had a mutiny and quit. I had to threaten legal action for them to finally let me go and get my car back.
The good news is my roll bar and exhaust are really well done, although there is an area I would have liked it tucked up a little higher. It was expensive but overall I am happy. Even if they forgot to weld in WB02 bungs. The bad news is that I still need an alignment and a tune which I am working on now.
I think I have found a temporary solution to my interference between the strut mount to the brake master cylinder. I was going to cut a relief into the side of my UMI bracket and weld a flat onto it. I then remembered that I bought these super generic, although well made, caster camber plates from Ebay. They are supposed to be used with awkward looking spacers but I did the right thing and left those off. It sits lower than it probably should and limits strut travel around an inch from where the UMI units put it. I am sure this isn't good for the life of the strut but I kinda don't care at this point.
The car goes to the dyno this week so fingers crossed it doesn't blow up. I have most of the car out back together and have been testing lights, switches etc.
The shifter for the magnum is more north than the factory location and hits the ash tray tub of the stock shifter panel. I'll have to figure this out in the future but for now I made a makeshift ABS plate and flipped the boot upside down and bolted it to the plate. Just need some screws but It allows full movement of the shifter. Yes, that is a custom radio delete. I also made a makeshift splash deflector for the intake. It probably wont work. I'll need a custom airbox at some point.
Last edited by ShiftyCapone; 06-04-2022 at 08:02 AM.
are you using a "standard" t56 magnum or "F" magnum? on my son's Formula LS3 swap (you can see some pics in the build thread https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...-ls3-swap.html) we used the UMI crossmember and "F" magnum and have the shifter in the more standard position
are you using a "standard" t56 magnum or "F" magnum? on my son's Formula LS3 swap (you can see some pics in the build thread https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...-ls3-swap.html) we used the UMI crossmember and "F" magnum and have the shifter in the more standard position
I'm using the standard Magnum. I bought this so long ago the F version didnt exist (unless you retrofitted it). Blackheart cross member and UMI K-Member. Did you have to alter your driveshaft? I had to cut 2" off my LS1 stick.
At some point in the future I'll convert the tailhousing on this one. That will give me greater tunnel clearance of which I am lacking now.
Last edited by ShiftyCapone; 06-04-2022 at 08:47 AM.
yes i did need a custom length driveshaft... i can look up the length in my book for you if needed
That might be handy, but no rush. I will need a new custom driveshaft once I ditch the 10 bolt. The shortened LS1 shaft is just to get me on the road for now. I assume the 10 bolt will break before the driveshaft.
Car just got back from the Dyno. We had few hiccups at the beginning (PS pully wasn't fully seated and I had a loose fuel line, but once those were fixed everything went smoothly. My tail housing is leaking fluid and I suspect the stock tremec seal was damaged during driveshaft install. All in all I am pretty satisfied with the results and I will try to post a video. I do need to put a larger air filter on, as my current one is too small and I was at 93 kpa at WOT (you want 98+). Tuner says I have 10 to 15 more rwhp with a larger filter, I will go back later to test that out. I also am running the break in oil and the engine has barely any break in time. Car made 503 rwhp and 443TQ on a Mustang Dyno. She's loud and she is a Monster.
That's a healthy number for a 6.2L that fits under a stock hood
Mamo is king, as you well know. All the little things add up. They were perplexed when I explained I had 15 different length pushrods. After break in, proper oil, and a new filter I will put it back on the rollers. Could have 10 to 20 more rwhp on a mustang dyno. Now I want an LS7.....
Mamo is king, as you well know. All the little things add up. They were perplexed when I explained I had 15 different length pushrods. After break in, proper oil, and a new filter I will put it back on the rollers. Could have 10 to 20 more rwhp on a mustang dyno. Now I want an LS7.....
Having every Push-Rod dialed-in to specific Lengths (for the desired Pre-Load with minimal Plunger-Travel) has become the "Normal" way to build our LS Engines (non-Adjustable Rocker/ Valve-Train) when starting to make some real Power.
Having worked with so many different Engines, that use different forms of "Adjustment" for the Valve-Train...
I find it comical at times, that this is where we are at.
So close, but just so far as well ...the Adjustable Rocker-Arm "art-thou"!
Well I drove the car from the alignment shop to my house, roughly 7 miles. First impressions are that it feels like I am driving inside an active nuclear explosion. Everything is loud, rattles and bangs galore and overall was a visceral experience. I had a few leaks that I was able to fix, and I found the missing ground that controlled my windows and door locks. I replaced the Tremec tail housing seal with a better metal encased unit, which fixed that leak as well.
Few items I need to address.
There is an area where my brake lines are within 1" of my header primary. I can put some DEI shielding in there. In addition, I need to put something on the floor board under the gas pedal. Granted interior will help here but my floor felt like a frying pan. I will fab something up for the short term until I can get thermal insulating padding and carpet.
Well I drove the car from the alignment shop to my house, roughly 7 miles. First impressions are that it feels like I am driving inside an active nuclear explosion. Everything is loud, rattles and bangs galore and overall was a visceral experience.
Yep, I totally get it dude!
My first drive was quite a shock. Felt more NASCAR than street car and was incredibly obnoxious without carpet and console. I had never had a car that would kill me if I didn't respect the throttle so I had to re-learn from scratch how to drive, but not before I got my first lesson stabbing the throttle while changing lanes to pass somebody and car went into a fishtail at 60 mph ---> That's when the driver mod happened.
I guess there are less "just grab a milk crate, and drive" members here than I thought, lol!
We’re still out there, my friend recently took his fresh LS swapped ‘55 Nomad out it’s initial drive sitting on a toolbox and it nearly threw him into the back of the car when he stabbed the gas. The inertia lifted his foot and the car coasted so that he could regain control. No harm, no foal, so we can laugh about it now.
I've only gone maybe 1/2 throttle as I break things in and keep debugging the little things. This thing needs more gear. The 3.42's, although temporary, are too lame. I can see this thing wanting 3.70 to 3.90. Especially with the lightened RPS mamo clutch.
I did rig up some DEI heat shield and home depot insulation delux custom matting. Should keep floor temps down. They felt like a frying pan after a few miles.
Last edited by ShiftyCapone; 06-10-2022 at 08:19 PM.
Which Gear-Set does the Transmission use?
After having used many, many of these Transmissions (and fallen in love with them)...
I favor the 2.66:1 through 0.74:1 and 0.50:1 Gear-Set, and either 3.90:1, 4:10:1, or 4:30:1 Gears (depending on Power-Output).
Which Gear-Set does the Transmission use?
After having used many, many of these Transmissions (and fallen in love with them)...
I favor the 2.66:1 through 0.74:1 and 0.50:1 Gear-Set, and either 3.90:1, 4:10:1, or 4:30:1 Gears (depending on Power-Output).
Enjoy!!!
I'll have to check my records but I have the one where the first three gears are more aggressive yet the overdrives are steeper than the other option.
I have 3.73 with a F-body T56 and that's too little gear. Should have gone at least 4.10. Hindsight....
Had a 4th gen 6.0L H/C/I with a Textralia clutch (yeah, I have other cars sometimes you guys don't know about) with 4.10 and that felt entirely natural on summer performance tires, not aggressive in the slightest.
I have 3.73 with a F-body T56 and that's too little gear. Should have gone at least 4.10. Hindsight....
Had a 4th gen 6.0L H/C/I with a Textralia clutch (yeah, I have other cars sometimes you guys don't know about) with 4.10 and that felt entirely natural on summer performance tires, not aggressive in the slightest.
My nerd math said 3.90 (9 inch) would be perfect, but now Im thinking more gear. Car hit 160mph in 4th on dyno with 3.42's.
My car tops 4th at 140 with a 3.73 gear. Keep in mind more gear will bring on more tire spin. From hanging around the autox guys the last few years the preferred gear seems to be 3.42 to 3.73 range.
I think the aim of autocross gearing is to stay in gear without shifting for the course.
The rear axle ratio doesn't matter once you hit ~60 mph because the transmission ratios start to normalize torque at the tire. It's just the way things work out if you calculate total gear ratios. Axle ratio is really about how you want First gear to behave.
First gear is just a nuisance for cars built like ours. We can't launch from a stop, our clutches don't like to slip, our engines surge at low rpm, we can't apply more than 30-50% TPS in First gear so we need steep gears to manage wheel speed. Objective is to get into Second as fast as you can because that is where the slingshot happens.
I will say 3.73 is a sweet spot for cruising with a T56 because it lands around 2,100 RPM at all the typical speed limit increments of 25, 35, 45, 55, 70 mph. And it's vicious from a 55 mph roll if you have 7,000+ rpm range to work with. 3.73 works really well for everything except getting rolling in First gear.
I made it through the hot rod power tour. The trip was 2200 miles of extreme brutality. So many problems to start the trip, but low and behold she made it. I'll be giving my full report card for my car soon and what changes need to be made. But for now, I am still bleeding off heat....
Congratulations, that is an amazing accomplishment. It’s one of those things that I would love to do some day. You and the car survived, which is a huge win.
Chassis: (UMI road race K member, A-Arms, Weight Jacks, Control arms. Rear sportlines, Founders panhard and torque arm stuff)
With the UMI tubular components, DSE subframe connectors and 4 pt roll bar, this car is stiffer than me on prom night. You feel EVERYTHING. I am still running the rear sportline springs and junk KYB struts and although the car hooked great, I had massive tire rub (mostly due to 4th gen rear being too wide). A narrower rear and slightly more ride height with spring isolators should soften things up a bit. All in all, it behaved exactly like I thought it would. I have no interior, but the normal sheet metal noises typically heard in these cars were nonexistent.
Final Grade: A
Brakes: (C6 Z06 fronts, 4th gen rears, Baer remaster cylinder and proportioning valve).
Uhg, this was a major problem the first few days of the tour. I was getting constant brake drag that at points It would anchor the car and I could not drive. After the car cooled, they would release, and I could get farther down the road only for it to happen again. I ended up replacing the rear calipers and pads and completely removed the parking brake shoes, lines, adjusters. I did this because the rear brakes would smoke and feel like the culprit. Still on stock 4th gen rear brakes. I also managed to shear off the parking brake adjuster which went for a noisy ride inside the caliper. God knows how that happened. The Baer tech line was atrocious and speaking to their event rep over-trivialized the problem. He was adamant that the 4th gen boosters are adjustable. They are not. I don’t fault him though because that is what let me focus in on the booster as a possible problem. Eventually the pedal went dead and I could hear an air leak. Bad brake booster. That was fun changing in the Marriott parking lot in 104-degree Alabama heat. The unit I had appeared to be defective from the factory and would drive the piston out while driving only for it to retract when the engine was off and vacuum subsided. After the new booster went in the brakes immediately felt better. Braking was good even with the Baer proportioning valve turned all the way down (50% output). I didn’t mess with the bias since things were working at the point.
Final Grade: C+
Transmission: (Tremec Magnum TUET11009)
Thing is a monster, the rear seal sucks, and it is incredibly noisy. It performed perfectly, although if you are overfilled (I was on accident) it will spew fluid on your exhaust, rear bumper and windshields of cars behind you. I was on my second rear seal and this time I used the Ford C6 automatic seal with a steel cased design with a more robust spring system. I am either still overfilled (I drained most in the parking lot but it was a tick over the fill line still), my vent is collapsed, or the new seal is just as bad as the one it shipped with. I still get a drip that smokes once it hits my exhaust. The gears did get smoother during the break in miles, as was expected, but the shifter got a little sloppier than I’d like. It is not as tight and ridged as the demo units at any transmission vender. May be a future upgrade. I also desperately need more gear. The stock 3.42’s are not enough and you really have to work the clutch to get going in first. Running 2010 RPM at 75 mph makes you shift into 5th quite a bit.
Final Grade: B+
Clutch: (Mamofied RPS BC2 Twin Disk Carbon Clutch)
This unit is pretty good. It has a crazy high cost to entry but drives nearly like stock. I am using stock 4th gen slave and master cylinders. The flywheel is steel but is lightened. You do get some chatter in 1rst but that may be due to the rear gears inhibiting initial movement. Once at speed, its smooth, grabs hard and drives like stock. Pedal effort is a little more than stock, but I bet is softer than using aftermarket hydraulics and heavy twin disks of other brands. It grabs in the top 3rd of pedal travel so no long leg presses needed. I’ll compare in the future when my buddy installs his Tilton and tick hydraulics.
Final Grade: A- (only because first gear chatter)
Exhaust: (Hooker ceramic coated 1 7/8 blackheart headers, 3” cats, true dual 3” exhaust with turndowns under bumper.
I knew this exhaust would be loud. And it is, but not 5.0 mustang exhaust loud, seriously why are those things so loud. However, the drone is insufferable. This is probably the thing that made the car so painful to drive (sans no AC in 104 degree heat). I wore double hearing protection (plugs and ear phones) which would cut the noise down to nothing but did zilch for the drone. The harmonic frequencies of the exhaust would pulsate through your entire being. My ears still feel “cloudy” today. Something has to change and I need to immediately explore new bullet mufflers (speed engineering ones now) or a way to cram in a traditional style muffler. At WOT it sounds like the car Jesus drives to work. Incredible.
Final Grade: WOT = A+, however at cruise = F minus squared times infinity
Cooling system: (Summit 3rd gen LS radiator swap, SPAL 13” fans, Ebay shroud).
At first I had major cooling problems. I was boiling over constantly. I eventually noticed that I had my steam vent and overflow lines reversed, meaning the system was never pressurized. Once I corrected the issue, the cooling was way better until I noticed that the 2nd fan never came on. I spoke to my tuner and he said that the operating system on my ECM only controls one fan, not 2. That would have been helpful to know. Especially since both fans are wired independently and each receives an independent signal from the harness (and to ECM). I also had a dead 10 gage wire to that fan so I ran some new wire and stole the signal from the first fan, and then both fans kicked on as the ECM commanded. Cooling problems solved and I never got above 210 degrees in the southern heat sitting in traffic.
Final Grade: Started as a D, ended as A-.
Oiling System: (Mamo ported high volume, standard pressure Melling pump, Improved racing sump baffling, crank scraper, 180 deg thermostat, Earls cooler)
Oil pressure was perfect the entire time, hitting all the marks with 10psi per 1000 RPM. Oil temps were another issue though. My gage was reading 240 degrees, but I think it was artificially high. My sensor is exposed to header heat and so is my oil filter and oil thermostat. When I would shut off the engine within minutes the gage temperature would drop 25 degrees. That leads me to believe the sending unit was getting hot, since 6 quarts of oil cannot cool that fast. None the less, I am going to be adding heat shielding to that part of the oil pan. I am also going to explore the DEI thermal jackets for sensors. After 400 miles I drained the break-in oil and ran Mobil 1 5W30 the rest of the way. I don’t think I need to go any thinner.
Final Grade: C+ (could be an A if sensor temp was artificially high).
Steering was tight and precise. Zero complaints. My PTFE AeroFLOW hoses held up great, no leaks and my cooler seemed to do its job (although I am not monitoring steering temps). The stock column has two vertical ridges that are molded into the plastic housing of the steering column. The base of my steering wheel has a centering bump that interferes with these ridges and creates a positive stop in the steering. I noticed this prior to hitting the road and was able to cut some of it out to alleviate the interference but I need to pull the wheel and grind the entire ridge down. This made the steering notchy at those points which is an odd feeling when driving. Lastly, I replaced the stock column lower bushing set with the stronger bearing versions (Hawks ebay, etc all sell them). Well, the bearing walked outside out of the housing as if it were undersized. This caused a little slop in the shaft but I otherwise could not feel the effects of it.
Final Grade: C+ until I can fix wheel interference with column.
These tires are super sticky. Although I babied all launches for fear of blowing up the 10 bolt, I never felt any tire slip. Granted, this is a 200-compound tire on 110+ degree asphalt rendering its performance to that of a slick. No complaints. Never hit rain, but I assume they are terrifying in it. They need to be tucked under farther as even after rolling the fenders mid trip, I had a lot of rubbing, every bump was cringe worthy. For some reason I have less clearance on the passenger side than driver side. Not sure what’s going on there, maybe spring alignment in the perch. When the new rear is ordered It will be narrowed to tuck the wheels in farther. I felt an 18’ Forgeline wheel on the tour and was blown away how light it was. New wheels may be in my future to free up rotating mass.
Final Grade: B+ (although fender clearance, rubbing over bumps, and lock to lock rubbing bring it down quite a bit).
Just a little rubbing and giant pile of molten rubber
All in all it was a great trip, despite the brutality. I need way more heat shielding, and an interior will go a long way. There are plenty of things to adjust, change and correct, but no project car is ever truly done. It will be interesting to see what I dyno after I replace the air filter with a larger unit, as well as roll without sticking brakes.
the good news is that was a trip that you will definitely remember, learned a lot that gave you solid data on what to improve, and in the end despite all the issues you made it all the way through and shows that your project has a lot of potential
on brakes you may want to consider upgrading and going with Wilwood for at least the rears... I have now switched out to a Wilwood unit on two projects and they are not only much better brakes and good parking brake. also new parts so no worry about rebuild calipers etc
Thanks guys. My plan is to run the rear C6 Z06 calipers once I commit to the 9 inch. I was so determined to make this work and was tired of "almost there" reasons as to why I couldn't drive it. So I dove face first. Ha. The duals 100% are the reason for the drone. I have read quite a bit on bullet style mufflers and there are a few choices I am willing to try. Even if I can't get rid of the drone, a 30% improvement may be all I need to not go insane. I would imagine some more sound deadening and a full interior will help as well. And yes I would like to do this again in 2023. That was hard to type....
Thanks guys. My plan is to run the rear C6 Z06 calipers once I commit to the 9 inch. I was so determined to make this work and was tired of "almost there" reasons as to why I couldn't drive it. So I dove face first. Ha. The duals 100% are the reason for the drone. I have read quite a bit on bullet style mufflers and there are a few choices I am willing to try. Even if I can't get rid of the drone, a 30% improvement may be all I need to not go insane. I would imagine some more sound deadening and a full interior will help as well. And yes I would like to do this again in 2023. That was hard to type....
I have a bunch of questions for you from the excellent Report-Card that you wrote-up.
Would you prefer an E-mail, or just questions here?
Awesome, I have to take some notes and then I'll Post questions here.
Off the top of my head though...
What did you purchase (in terms of a Ford C6 Seal) for the T56-Mag. Output Seal?
Tremec reported having issues with some of their original installed Seals.
The 31-Spline Output-Shaft opens things up in terms of Seals that can be used.
The Ford C6 Style Seal has been a very popular upgrade to the T56-Mag...
I highly recommend the SKF #16567 Seal for these Transmissions (I have installed several dozen now, with very happy Customers).
Awesome, I have to take some notes and then I'll Post questions here.
Off the top of my head though...
What did you purchase (in terms of a Ford C6 Seal) for the T56-Mag. Output Seal?
Tremec reported having issues with some of their original installed Seals.
The 31-Spline Output-Shaft opens things up in terms of Seals that can be used.
The Ford C6 Style Seal has been a very popular upgrade to the T56-Mag...
I highly recommend the SKF #16567 Seal for these Transmissions (I have installed several dozen now, with very happy Customers).
That is indeed the seal I used. Napa has it under two numbers NOS-16567 and ATP-11424. I need to drain the trans, start with 3.5 new qrts, clean the underside, verify the vent isnt plugged, and then hopefully I will no longer be leaking.
Awesome, I have to take some notes and then I'll Post questions here.
Off the top of my head though...
What did you purchase (in terms of a Ford C6 Seal) for the T56-Mag. Output Seal?
Tremec reported having issues with some of their original installed Seals.
The 31-Spline Output-Shaft opens things up in terms of Seals that can be used.
The Ford C6 Style Seal has been a very popular upgrade to the T56-Mag...
I highly recommend the SKF #16567 Seal for these Transmissions (I have installed several dozen now, with very happy Customers).
Is this something that I need to address with a new “F” model before I install it? I’m hoping that Tremec has addressed this on the current transmission.
Is this something that I need to address with a new “F” model before I install it? I’m hoping that Tremec has addressed this on the current transmission.
It's a $5 insurance policy. The new seal is built so much better than the stock one. Don't risk it. Its a royal pain to change once your driveshaft and exhaust are installed.
Chassis: (UMI road race K member, A-Arms, Weight Jacks, Control arms. Rear sportlines, Founders panhard and torque arm stuff)
With the UMI tubular components, DSE subframe connectors and 4 pt roll bar, this car is stiffer than me on prom night. You feel EVERYTHING. I am still running the rear sportline springs and junk KYB struts and although the car hooked great, I had massive tire rub (mostly due to 4th gen rear being too wide). A narrower rear and slightly more ride height with spring isolators should soften things up a bit. All in all, it behaved exactly like I thought it would. I have no interior, but the normal sheet metal noises typically heard in these cars were nonexistent.
Final Grade: A
Thank you again for typing all of this Data from your 2,200 Mile excursion.
I am just going to follow the order of your Report Card.
In my experience with too many Third-Gens by this point:
As stiff as we usually end up having to make these Cars...
The ONLY relief from a relentlessly stiff ride is from the Rear Suspension Springs and Shocks!
What is your Rear Suspension Configuration?
I thought you were using Weight Jacks for the Rear Suspension, as well as the Front...
Am I mistaken; being that you Posted the use of the Sportline Springs.
I am very curious... I have consistently had the best results with Customer's Third-Gens, via Rear Weight Jacks.
However it is not everyone's solution.
Are you using any Rear Suspension Air-Bags or secondary Dampers?
How much Rear Suspension Travel do you have?
Are the KYB Shocks and Sportline Springs the complete configuration?
Using any Travel Limiters?
Is the Rear Suspension intentionally just configured for Drag Racing?
I really want to obtain as much Data on this topic as I can.
I do not like seeing the most popular Rear Springs Sets for our Cars, having such a Low Spring-Rate.
Especially with these Cars lowered at all...
Too soft with limited Travel due to ground-clearance.
If I were younger, I would have designed one more Product for our Cars in My old Shop...
Some kind of Rear Suspension Package with selections for ideal cushion/ feel in a very limited range/ travel distance.
...O well.
Thank you again for typing all of this Data from your 2,200 Mile excursion.
I am just going to follow the order of your Report Card.
In my experience with too many Third-Gens by this point:
As stiff as we usually end up having to make these Cars...
The ONLY relief from a relentlessly stiff ride is from the Rear Suspension Springs and Shocks!
What is your Rear Suspension Configuration?
I thought you were using Weight Jacks for the Rear Suspension, as well as the Front...
Am I mistaken; being that you Posted the use of the Sportline Springs.
I am very curious... I have consistently had the best results with Customer's Third-Gens, via Rear Weight Jacks.
However it is not everyone's solution.
Are you using any Rear Suspension Air-Bags or secondary Dampers?
How much Rear Suspension Travel do you have?
Are the KYB Shocks and Sportline Springs the complete configuration?
Using any Travel Limiters?
Is the Rear Suspension intentionally just configured for Drag Racing?
My whole rear setup right now is temporary. It is garbage. The 10 bolt, junk KYB's and old sportlines were just to get me on the road. I will likely run the complementing UMI rear weight jacks and Koni adjustable shocks when I go 9 inch. I currently have very little clearance because my wheels have vette offsets and I am running the 4th gen 10 bolt (i.e, they almost stick out, dead flush with rear fender). Once I put in a narrower rear, I should have plenty of travel. The tubs will let me tuck the wheels in nicely. Plenty of room there. As a band aid I will try and get the stance to level off in the rear. The right rear is significantly lower then the left. Not sure what is going on there. Every bump felt like a car crash with this current configuration.
To get more room back for your camber/caster mounts, etc have you thought about going back to the 3rd or 4th gen MC vs the baer unit? doesn't seem like the baer unit is really bringing any benefit?
i have been using the 4th gen booster and 4th gen MC and a wilwood prop valve which ends up being more compact vs 3rd gen stock. when combined with ls1 fronts and wilwood rears i have really great braking all around
To get more room back for your camber/caster mounts, etc have you thought about going back to the 3rd or 4th gen MC vs the baer unit? doesn't seem like the baer unit is really bringing any benefit?
i have been using the 4th gen booster and 4th gen MC and a wilwood prop valve which ends up being more compact vs 3rd gen stock. when combined with ls1 fronts and wilwood rears i have really great braking all around
The honest answer is that I bought it because it looks awesome and fits the color/design scheme of my engine bay. I assumed, given the brand and cost of entry, that it would be more than adequate for my needs. As of now, the brakes are so much better with the new booster. I will be experimenting with adjusting the pressure and will likely hold off on any major changes until I can test with the C6 Z06 rears in place. I have thought exactly what you are proposing should I feel like this is not the best setup. For now, the booster was the biggest issue. The master cylinder has been fine. To your point, the suspension situation may drive me to go back to a taller strut mount, necessitating a different master. However, I think I can weld in a flat into the UMI strut mounts to give me the clearance I need. Although stiff, the rear setup hurt the worst over bumps. The front wasn't as brutal.
Oiling System: (Mamo ported high volume, standard pressure Melling pump, Improved racing sump baffling, crank scraper, 180 deg thermostat, Earls cooler)
Oil pressure was perfect the entire time, hitting all the marks with 10psi per 1000 RPM. Oil temps were another issue though. My gage was reading 240 degrees, but I think it was artificially high. My sensor is exposed to header heat and so is my oil filter and oil thermostat. When I would shut off the engine within minutes the gage temperature would drop 25 degrees. That leads me to believe the sending unit was getting hot, since 6 quarts of oil cannot cool that fast. None the less, I am going to be adding heat shielding to that part of the oil pan. I am also going to explore the DEI thermal jackets for sensors. After 400 miles I drained the break-in oil and ran Mobil 1 5W30 the rest of the way. I don’t think I need to go any thinner.
I highly recommend moving to a entirely Remote-Mounted Set of Sensors and Sending-Units.
Especially for the Situation that you have with that Oil Temp Sending-Unit.
Also it is ideal to have the Engine Oil Temp come up to at the Least 215*F - 220*F for a brief time (if the Temp got close to an actual 240*F that would be fine) then have a Thermostat control Temps after.
What are you using for a Gauge/ Sensor? ...with Holley EFI, correct?
Which Thermostat and Cooler are you using?
What size Hose/ Tubing?
What are the Coolant Temps like?
...and how are they when the Oil Temps are at the hottest?
I've been looking into remote oiling but not sure where I'd put it. Right now Im using an autometer sending unit and gage. The unit is plugged into the lower driver side port on the front of the block. I'm going to heat shiled everything and see where I land. Temps never showed above 240, but would drop to 210 after the engine was off for mere minutes. I think sensor heat soak, due to proximity of headers. Running a 200 degree (i think) thermostat through -10an feed and return lines. Oil pressure is coming off stock location at top rear of block.
Forgot to mention coolant. I was running 185/190 on the highway and when stuck in traffic (with both fans working and system plumbed correctly and pressurized) I never saw over 210. This was in 104deg heat sitting at idle stuck in line getting into the venues. Another indicator that the sending unit is getting too hot is that when at idle, the oil temps would actually go down 5 to 10 degrees. I would assume engine idle vs engine at 2k rpm reduced the heat enough. When I observed it at 240, the coolant was still no more than 210. At cruise with the coolant at 185, oil was still 240. Sensor has to be affected by nearby header. DEI makes a slick sending unit heat cap that I am going to give a go. I could always relocate to somewhere in the nose, but I think heat shielding will go a long way. DEI has some really trick shields that look super simple to implement. I am not talking wrap either. That stuff is horrible.
Remote mount has a number of benefits from the sensor viewpoint, but the one thing I don't like about it is more lines that you potentially have an issue with. I personally don't like having any more connections than necessary as each one is another potential weep/seep/leak/failure point
Originally Posted by vorteciroc
I highly recommend moving to a entirely Remote-Mounted Set of Sensors and Sending-Units.
Especially for the Situation that you have with that Oil Temp Sending-Unit.
Also it is ideal to have the Engine Oil Temp come up to at the Least 215*F - 220*F for a brief time (if the Temp got close to an actual 240*F that would be fine) then have a Thermostat control Temps after.
What are you using for a Gauge/ Sensor? ...with Holley EFI, correct?
Which Thermostat and Cooler are you using?
What size Hose/ Tubing?
What are the Coolant Temps like?
...and how are they when the Oil Temps are at the hottest?
Remote mount has a number of benefits from the sensor viewpoint, but the one thing I don't like about it is more lines that you potentially have an issue with. I personally don't like having any more connections than necessary as each one is another potential weep/seep/leak/failure point
More plumbing is definitely involved...
All the Guys that are required to do so (for their corresponding racing class) seem to make it work out fine.
05-06-2022, 08:16 AM
