When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
Hi guys,
finally I started my swap last week.
This forum gave me good info and so my swap is staight forward, but at this point I have 2 questions:
When you did your swaps, which trans mounts did you use? The 4 Gen one or the 3. Gen one?
I ask this, because the 4. Gen one is a little bit thicker and the mountig screw to the crossmember is centered,
while the 3. Gen one is thinner and the screw is a little bit offset to the right...
The second question belongs tho the radiator... How did you made them fit? Mine has "nozzle" on the underside (passenger side)
that hits the frame, so it would sit aslant. Did you dril a hole???
I can provide pics later...
Cheers Robert
Last edited by Rock-Bert; Sep 2, 2019 at 06:29 AM.
I just see a 3rd gen trans mount and a modded 3rd gen trans crossmember. Auto trans.
for radiator I’m using the 3rd gen radioed. If you’re have problems with the drain hitting tyen it sounds like you probably need to drill a hole. I think that’s what you’re talking about anyway. I assume this is a 4th gen radiator and the drain is on the bottom instead of the side? if you drill a hole make sure to protect the bare metal.
Thanks for your input with the 3.Gen mount.
And yes, I have to fabricate my own crossmember with a "tunnel" for the exhaust pipe from some 5mm steel.
because the swap crossmember from Hawks I ordered was 160 € waste of money, it doesen´t fit in any way.
I would love to keep my 3. Gen radiator, but how did you manage the size difference for the steam line connection?
You havent said what engine/trans you’re running. If it’s a truck engine and you’re using truck accessories you’ll need water pump spacers. My spacers were tapped for the fitting.
You havent said what engine/trans you’re running. If it’s a truck engine and you’re using truck accessories you’ll need water pump spacers. My spacers were tapped for the fitting.
edit::: never mind I see ls1. Never mind the post
Yes, engine and trans are out of a 98 Camaro...
He has relatively high milage (146k mls) but bought it very cheap so with the sale of all good parts, engine / trans and other stuff for the swap was free!
If you had the tank and fuel lines, not sure why you bothered using the 3rd gen stuff
Because the 4.Gen sending unit in the tank works in another Ohm range, I wouldn´t have got the right signal for my fuel level gauge. And this would have been much more work to change than the pump.
Also the hardlines from the 4.Gen doesn´t fit very well without massive bending.
It was no big Deal to modyfy the 3. Gen lines. A little bit cutting here and there... In the engine bay I bent the hardline a little upwards and used the original rubberhose with an AN6 adapter at the end for the LS connection.
Oh, and pls don´t have a deep look on the engine... I´have never seen such a dirty motor!
Don´t know why the previous owner didn´t keep it a little bit cleaner.
As soon as everything is hooked up right and engine runs, I will take it out once again for cleaning.
Last edited by Rock-Bert; Nov 13, 2018 at 01:15 AM.
Your swap in the Camaro is coming along nicely. Keep up the good work. You're going to love the way your car feels with the LS1 engine. I know I did when I swapped in an LS1/ 6 Speed into my 1988 GTA.
So after 4 weeks of not working on the car, here is the result of last saturday.
To keep the engine bay as clean as possible at the end, I did 4th Gen Cooling Reservoir swap.
Drilled the original welding points
Removed original battery panel
Fabricated some cardboard pattern
Made the metal counterpart
weld it in... (of course, I cleaned all the metal from rust etc before priming and welding)
Just a detail, but Id swap those hose clamps on your fuel lines for fuel injection clamps. Those hose clamps are rated for a coolant system (14psi). LS fuel systems operate at 55-60psi and can spike to 75psi
Time went by, doing nothing on the car due to some private things.
But since April I´m really busy and worked nearly every day in my garage.
Did all the wireing, looming, heater box back in, radiator mounting, trans cooler installation, PCM under dash mounting... and so on.
Here are some pics of the wireing... So much wires
Labeled all of them
Tried to route them in the engine compartment
new, naked fuse box
assembling...
find the right location...
first try with the cable routing for PCM under dash mounting
And now I have a BIG problem, hope you guys can help me.
When I removed the PCM from the donor car, I flashed it.
Means, I deleated VATS, rear O2s, AIR and EVAP
As you can see in the vid, the car runs, but when it´s "cold" it starts very bad - 15sec until fireing.
Then it gets way to much fuel, runs mega rich and smells for fuel.
You cant rev it in a proper line, it always has breaks and swallows up.
Another curious thing is, the temp sensor reads 110° degree celsius in PCM, but my cluster gauge tells me normal temp.
I changed the sensor two times for new parts, nothing changed.
Do you have any ideas, or questions I can answer to you to get a better idea of my problem?
Re: 89 Camaro TBI to LS1/4L60E - HELP too much fuel
Just to give some background...
I started my swap last autumn, before I pulled out the LS1 from the donor car (98 Camaro, all original) I took HPTuners to delete some codes.
By installing the engine in my 89 Camaro, I did the AC delete, EGR delete, AIR delete, rear O2 delete and EVAP delete.
My problems now are:
- The car starts very bad when it´s cold (10 - 15 sec). When it has run a few seconds and I start it again, it cranks over immediately
- The engine runs ok but not 100% calm. a little bit sloppy between 630 and 680 rpm.
- For my swap I had to use the 3-wire CTS sensor, one wire for the PCM, one wire for the cluster.
Here is a mysteria, because the sensor starts reading at 115degree, while the engine is cold. Within a few seconds the temp raises to 180degree, and after 4-5 minutes its at 230-250degree.
While the cluster gauge is showing normal temp.
- When I try to rev the engine, it doesn´t do this proper, it swallows up and does misfireing.
What I did:
- HPTuners AC delete, EGR delete, AIR delete, rear O2 delete and EVAP delete
- closed the AIR hole on the top of the intake
- welded all AIR and EGR holes in the headers
- closed the vacuum line at the back of the intake
- tried 3 different temp sensors, all the same result - much to high temp at the PCM
- measured the ohms at the cts sensors -> ok
- did a bypass cable directly from the sensor to the PCM -> same measurements / ok
- PCM has a constant power well over 13V at idle
- custom Y-Pype with 200" Cats
- 2 new O2 sensors
The car runs way too rich and when it turns from closed loop to open loop, it smells like fuel that it bites in your eyes.
Re: 89 Camaro TBI to LS1/4L60E - HELP too much fuel
Originally Posted by Rock-Bert
Just to give some background...
I started my swap last autumn, before I pulled out the LS1 from the donor car (98 Camaro, all original) I took HPTuners to delete some codes.
By installing the engine in my 89 Camaro, I did the AC delete, EGR delete, AIR delete, rear O2 delete and EVAP delete.
My problems now are:
- The car starts very bad when it´s cold (10 - 15 sec). When it has run a few seconds and I start it again, it cranks over immediately
- The engine runs ok but not 100% calm. a little bit sloppy between 630 and 680 rpm.
- For my swap I had to use the 3-wire CTS sensor, one wire for the PCM, one wire for the cluster.
Here is a mysteria, because the sensor starts reading at 115degree, while the engine is cold. Within a few seconds the temp raises to 180degree, and after 4-5 minutes its at 230-250degree.
While the cluster gauge is showing normal temp.
- When I try to rev the engine, it doesn´t do this proper, it swallows up and does misfireing.
What I did:
- HPTuners AC delete, EGR delete, AIR delete, rear O2 delete and EVAP delete
- closed the AIR hole on the top of the intake
- welded all AIR and EGR holes in the headers
- closed the vacuum line at the back of the intake
- tried 3 different temp sensors, all the same result - much to high temp at the PCM
- measured the ohms at the cts sensors -> ok
- did a bypass cable directly from the sensor to the PCM -> same measurements / ok
- PCM has a constant power well over 13V at idle
- custom Y-Pype with 200" Cats
- 2 new O2 sensors
The car runs way too rich and when it turns from closed loop to open loop, it smells like fuel that it bites in your eyes.
