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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
For folks that save money buying solid color wire, what is the color scheme and designations that you use when building a harness? I'm guessing there is no standard, we just make it up according to the book of (insert user name here).
Most of the "High End" Wiring, or MilSpec/ RaceSpec Wiring, actually uses all Black or White Wire.
Wire color is usually ignored... Pin-Out Location is the preferred reference method.
For me personally; when I use TXL/ Automotive Grade Wiring...
I use the Colors that GM used from the 1980s to early 2000s.
When I am using Tefzel Wiring... I don't follow any Color Code.
It only comes in 10 Colors, and no Tracer either.
You can tell I'm in a knowledge hunting phase of planning...
So does a concentric wound harness really save space when comparing same wire diameters? I did a rough geometrical analysis with all same wire size and I'm not seeing how it saves space compared to parallel runs. This is assuming +6 wires per layer.
Also, wouldn't concentric winding be a nightmare with trapping water and freezing? I'm guessing if you can't COMPLETELY seal the bundle from end to end then you just don't even try concentric winding. What are your thoughts about that?
If I'm going to go through the trouble of making another harness then it's gotta be a really good one this time or it's not worth doing!
I charge a fortune for Concentric Harnesses... they are major pain in the A$$.
They are heavier and thicker than a standard Harness would be.
I always have to use filler-wire in the various layers.
The harnesses are completely sealed... they are bonded together in places where there is room for air to enter.
I would stay away from Concentric Wiring; unless it is required for what you are doing.
If anything goes wrong with the Harness, you would have to throw it away and make another.
There is no disassembly and repair possible, everything get glued and bonded together permanently.
I do recommend that the Fuel Injector Sub-Harness and Ignition Coil Sub-Harness...
get Booted Connectors, Raychem Sleeved, fully sealed, strain-relieved, and booted.
Fuel is always in these areas... so I always make these 2 Sub-Harnesses to the Race-Spec.
