I bought a C5 FEAD from a friend and it came with a 145 Amp Valeo alternator (GM part number 25888970) with the decoupler pulley. Accessory terminals appear to use a 4 position Metri-pack 150 connector with 3 pins and 1 blank.

1. Does anybody know how to wire this for stand alone operation?

2. Is the decoupler pulley compatible with a manual belt tensioner? I have a Katech manual tensioner and would like to keep it because it solved belt throw problems I was having with my F-body FEAD.

 

Yuck!
There are 3 different designs (Clutch-Pulley/ Decoupling--Pulley/ Overrun-Pulley) that all essentially serve the same purpose.
During Engine deceleration, the Alternator pulley is free from having to rotate with the rest of the FEAD.
Fuel economy, reduced engine load, cleaner emissions... Blah Blah Blah.

I avoid them when possible.

The Corvette FEAD is positioned closer inward to the Engine than the F-Body FEAD and much closer than the Truck FEAD (just in case you were not aware).

The Alternator will require a switched Positive 12 Volts connected to the L-Terminal via a 470 to 500 Ohm Resistor for the Internal Voltage-Regulator to operate properly:



Have fun!

 

Thanks.

I've got a couple possible ideas for this FEAD. It came with a high mount mini AC compressor too. Stock k-member might be in my future again.

 

Remind me, which Engine Cross-member are you using?
Do you have the OEM Triangulation Brackets?

Do you have some version of a Wonder-Bar?
Any additional Front-End or Radiator Support reinforcement?

The Front-End of these cars have little to nothing tying the frame together...
I like to weld some 1.5" Tube under the Rad. Sup. from Frame Rail to Frame Rail at the very least.

 

Also the AC Compressor is the first step to having a Refrigerant to Water Inter-cooler for some Forced Induction!

 

I'm running the Holley bracket system which puts the AC up high, but allows me to run vette spacing and stock triangle braces on the UMI k-member. I wish it were more compact but I really have no reason to complain.

 

If anyone else has any needs for GM Alternator Wiring...
I can point you in the correct direction with Schematics Information and Part Number Information for 1960 to Current
(Including remote Voltage Regulator Alternators) (But excluding PWM controlled Alternators).

Connectors for 1960 to Current (and Mil-Spec) shown below:



The necessary RESISTORS are available in a Socketed for in case it ever needs to be replaced (500 Ohm).

Or as a Non-Removable Crimped version (470 Ohm).

Anyone can PM me and I will seen Info for Part Numbers and Wiring Instructions.

 

I am simply in love with both QwkTrip's Car,and your Car.

Especially the Body-Work for the Engine Compartment.
One day I will find a Body-Shop that is willing to do it (many said no, when I told them that they could not use any Seam-Sealer or other Tricks to hide flaws).
They saw your Images... and were like: "No way, not going to do it, way too much detail work".

 

Right now I have a BMR K-member with LS engine stands. It's a bit flimsy.

I have a Detroit speed steering brace. It spans across frame rails and sandwiches under the idler arm and steering box. Really nice bolt-on setup, a true steering brace. Everything forward of that is stock and just along for the ride.

 

This is not the first time I have read about the 470-500ohm resistor in the L-Term circuit. I have a swap car here from another shop. Can anyone tell me what happens when this alternator is ran without the resistor and full 12v switched power to the L-Term? Does it kill the alternator or is it a "some cars it works" and "some cars it doesn't" situation. This car is on Alt number 3 and this last one ran for less than 30 minutes before it stopped charging. My IROC is a gen4 swap and I wired it like a gen4 to the E38 ECM and it works fine but this car is not wired like that.

 

Full 12v to the B terminal on a stock regulator will quickly burn it out

 

Thank you, this satisfies my curiosity.