If I get the IROC, (which is a 305 as well.) I will restore it over this year once the RS is out of the garage, and use it as a DD whenever I am working on the RS. Plus with the way prices of IROC's have been on ebay lately.. I don't want to miss out on getting an IROC and then have to pay over 8-10k for one..

Then I would probably pull the RS motor and have some fun with it.
327 please!

Page 3 mine!

 

its going to be the same starter and wires for a 350.

if you plan on leaving the bottom end of the motor completly intact then i can completly understand keeping the 305

if you need to rebuild the bottom end 350 blocks are a dime a dozen and if youre spending all the money on a rebuild, might as well get the full benefit out of what youre doing considering you plan on doing cam and heads.

with a n/a 305 and imo even a 350 really you have to run heads with small intake runners like 165cc or 180 to keep the velocity up, and they just dont flow well enough, severely limiting your power.

Best reason to keep it a 305 tho is cause of the t-5 in your car, if you like to beat on it at all its going to go with any real power infront of it.


as far as filling up your wheel wells, your question is its own answer. Youve got 15" wheels. get 16" wheels and it will looks much nicer. Obviously something like an eibach pro-kit will also help.

also wondering why you want to run true duals. First of all duals makes no sense with shortie headers. If you were going for the cool effect youd want long tubes into true duals. With the shorties just run a 2 3/4"-3" y-pipe and it will support more power then you will ever make with this car.

Theres no reason to run duals other then purely for the fact of being able to say you have duals.
If you are going to run duals unless youre going to axel dump youll need an upper panhard relocation bar to get both tubes over the axel. Both BMR and UMI sell this piece.

oh ya, and the first thing you need to do before making the car go faster is buy some sub frame connectors

 

Once I got to the 350 part of your post doug, I wrote you off as anything worth listening too.



If you bring up how stupid it is for duals or using a 305, you will be reported to an admin for ruining/sidetracking my thread and ETC.

I have already covered that I do not recommend anything I am doing, and I have also posted that if I ever get another car I will use a 3 inch cat back.

This is a fun project, not a project that is the same as everyone elses.

Like yours?

 

I've been researching the T5 alot and they can hold up to some pretty high TRQ numbers. In ford high perf mag they have a '69 mustang with 400hp 450trq and they did over 100 track runs with M/T slicks and they siad they really abused it and were very surprised the tranny held up, and they didnt even rebuild it. Later on in the mag they put in a 500 hp supercharged 5.0 and they still had the T5! Ive also seen alot of 400+ TRQ cars with T5's. Also my car has had a 350 for about 2 years and it has the original T5 so im not sure about what people say about the T5 being a weak tranny.

 

Old habits die hard, creepingdeath.
I would not mind a T-5, but since I am running a 305, I think a T-56 would be the better option to put the money towards, especially since I want the most gas mileage possible on all driving conditions, while still having a really perky car.

 

what tranny do you have now?

 

I want a t-56

 

Any updates or did you buy a new car.

 

yes. please fill us in!

 

Sorry, been pretty slow lately, I haven't gotten the hours I have been wanting. I had actually been trying to get a new pair of heads instead of sticking with the 187's, but alas, money doesn't grow on trees. I will probably just continue to save up for my PROM equipment and go with my old plan of getting all the go fast goodies next winter.

Soon as I can actually get out to the car without freezing my butt off, (unheated garage -_-) I'll get some more pics up.

Ninja Edit: Damn firefox killed my last ninja edit. I did get the pass. side accessories bracket off, had to cut it in half to get the smog pump off, gonna try to shave it down and make it look good now. Can't wait to try the driver side, all the torx bolts are hidden.

 

Sooo...

Haven't gotten to do much lately, bad timing with days off etcetc bs excuses.

Forgot to drain the block before I undid the head bolts. That was funny.
As I said I got everything off the pass. side, but that didn't stop it from not coming off!

Tried and tried to break that stupid seal but those heads are on there frikken good. What sucks is on my main day off (Tomorrow lol) im usually busy till 3 anyway ...

Probably have to post this is the tech forum but..
Can I pull the driver head with the very left most torx screw, and the one next to the nut+screw along with the power steering (disconnected of course)? I'm going to cut the bottom one off. The method I'm thinking of using for the other two though seems too dirty and I don't want to get little bits of metal in the engine.

No pics, I was ah.. rather occupied by the Great Lake Coolant, and that stupid head lol.

It's late, I gotta tank tomorrow.. peace.

 

Man that sucks i have no friggin idea how you would those off without destroying something.. Parasoth i found out i have a 305 too! The guy i buaght it from really got me good. I never have been in a 305 car that had any power but i never knew the 85 under z28's had 190hp 240trq stock! It sucks but its strange how much power the 305's are capable of. Sorry for what i siad at the beginning of the post, i had a 305 when i siad it lol!!

 

Ut oh! That must be very disappointing, but at least you have a good platform to work on, already having the 416 heads if I am not mistaken. Do you plan to swap to a 35X/LXX or stick with the 305?

Score.

 

I plan on getting a 350 not sure what kind yet, and working on it for a year or so and get everything i want and the best parts. Until then i'm putting in 1.6 roller rockers and a comp XE268H cam (flat tappet hydraulic), New timing chain, fel pro gasket kit, hooker headers, 3" custom exhuast, and while i got the engine apart im going to lightly port polish the 416's, Then ill just swap over those parts to the 350. Have you decided on a cam yet? The EX268H with 1.6 rockers was highly recomended to me for the 305 and the 350.
----------
Oh and DON"T use anything to wedge those heads off you might score your block badley and have to shave the block down and that can be kinda expensive, you even ruin the heads!! becuase the gasket will not seal properly. When your rebuilding the engine you want to be extremely careful with everything even dust can destroy your engine!

 

Damn!
Didn't expect these to weigh so much, no wonder everyone wants alum. heads!


Still can't decide between having them cleaned and ported for some awesome street heads, or go for for some alum. trickster heads....

Started having fun with the exhaust again and got what I think will be my final setup. NOTE: It does sit 1-6 inches higher in all places, I am just too tired and lazy to find tall enough boxes and bricks to keep it at that height.







Die 56k! Die!

 

hey im glad you go workin on your car!
its awesome
keep the work going
by the way. what size of exhaust you using?

 

hey im doin the same kind of work on my 88 iroc. what are u cleaning everything with? like all the parts? im down to taking of my intake manifold and heads

 

With how bad they are, I am thinking of having them dipped at a machine shop or the like. I would probably try a heavy degreaser or brake fluid. Heres a good thread on head cleaning: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...ing-heads.html

 

thanx, also my friend told me u can take off the tensioner also and use a belt of size 50" and it will work perfect. i think im gunna try that.

i have a a.c delete box forsale if u need 1.

i almost stripped my smog pumps torx bolt on bottom, prob gunna be a b$tch to get out now. any suggestions?

looks like a good work in progress

do you have aim or aol?

 

looks like its coming along great!

 

Killacamaro: Well, considering that there would be almost no tension on the water pump, I don't know it it would work too well.. usually if you delete the tensioner it'll go...

(Silly forum messed up my diagram!)

from alt, under water, over power, under crank, over alt.

If you get rid of the tensioner and left ALT on Driver side it would be..

(Silly forum messed up my diagram! Again!)

I guess from the alt, under the power, under and over the crank, under the water to the alt? I dont know if theres enough tension on the water as I said earlier...

Gonna make my own AC delete box, but thanks for the offer.
And man, the only thing I have to offer is get ready to learn how to control a dremel on your back with your arms in every which way. Also, if you can get a pair of vice grips on it, clamp them REAL hard, like, break the head off the bolt tight, it should work just fine. That is what I did on 2 of the easy to get bolts.

irishhockey34: tyty.

Got the bolts out for most of the driver side head acc. gonna leave the top 2 in the head in there and pull them out after the head is off.
Pics will follow.

 

he said that he did it, and it workd. how can i know if i have alot of pressure on the water pump? or how can i runt he belt so i do have alot of pressure??

 

Would have to buy an ALT bracket thats adjustable. Of course this is more or less necessary anyway because theres no way to set tension on the belt without something that can move towards and from the belt. Mostly why I am leaving the tensioner.

 

he said to use a 50" belt and it will be tight. very tight you need help to get it on. why would i need an ALT bracket or an adjustable 1?

if i need pressure on the tensioner can i relocate teh ALT?

 

While it may be tight, how are you going to get it over the pulleys if you cant stretch it over them. This is where the adjustable ALT bracket comes into play, or the tensioner. They allow you to make the belt circuit smaller, which would allow you to slip the belt over all the pulleys, while having slack at the ALT, then you would move the ALT back out to tighten the belt...

Why go through all the trouble of having to get someone else to put a simple belt on, when I could make a bracket or something in minute?

Nope, the tensioner is what is putting tension on the belt, not the ALT. To make the alt take the place of the tensioner, you would need an adjustable ALT bracket.


Whoops,

Head bolts are out, waiting for PB to settle a little then goin at it.

 

Hey ok soooo all I need to get is an adjustable ALT bracket, smaller belt and then I can remove alll? Sounds good to me hope it works. Will try thanx for the info.

What's thys PB stuff u keep talkn bout to remove bolts? I was just using liquid wrench. Ur stuff better?

 

Never tried liquid wrench, I was recommended PB by my neighbor who dirt track races. Considering how much grime he probably deals with, I stick with the PB. I see it mentioned a few times on this site as well.

And yes. IMO if you actually buy the bracket, get a passenger low/medium one, that way it all sits down low and out of site.


Whoops: SUCCESS. Head just broke loose.

 

ok great sounds good thanx for the info. will do.... im doin the rebuild as u are, and im about to take off the intake manifold and the valve covers, but i wanna blow air first on top and get all these leaves and nuts that are all over. my car has been sitting for 3 years. and it looks as a squirrel was living in it. or sum damn animal. there are nuts and acorns all over. soo i think blowing air first will be a good idea, then uncover this bad boy. any recommendations as to doin this?

 

Pick up a Haynes & Chiltons & GM Service manual.
Dive right in and don't look back.

Stupid power steering hoses...

 

yeah got one of them lol. thanx how is it going wit the car?

 

Well forgot to charge my batteries, but will have pics tomorrow.
Got the head off and holy crap! That + the power steering has to be 120-140 pounds. It took ALL of my little 140 pound self to get that thing outta there lol.

 

you guys should take some photos
i should be in the process of taking my 305 engine out of my car hopfully spring time.
if you guys want any parts let me know. ill clean the parts and sand them down and paint them a gloss black if you want or i can just leave them be and you do what you want with them.
im not to sure what the cly heads are. like the casting numbers. i havnt had the chance to take the heads off so im not to sure what the pistions look like or anything. but the engine has over 275000 kms on it. and it burns oil. needs a new ring job so thats why im building a 383 insted more power!!!!! VROOOOM!!!!

but yeah let me know if you need any parts from em.

 

LMAO My sentiments exactly.

 

HERE ARE SUM PIX OF MY ENGINE AND MY BABY! WHAT YOU GUYS THINK?

 

i love your rims. what kind rims are thos??

 

cragar ss rims 15" they r deep dish in the rear too, makes it look beefy, just hate they are 15"

 

Soooo...

I am a lazy, please hate me for the people that were following this thread. Getting that out..

I got the power steering bracket off finally.. might have to make a new one.. and if I do that I will probably mount the alternator on the otherside with an adjustable mount.. that way its all low and out of the way.





I had them finally sent to a shop so they could get washed, and I got them back today, sadly I thought it would make them look better than it did.. Maybe I was expecting too much, It also revealed a lot of rust that I had not even noticed before, which was a big downer. But after I got them home, I started thinking about painting them so I searched to make sure it was a good idea and so..

At first I had decided to go black with just 1 white IROC stripe, so I decided to go with painting the heads and intake white, and leaving the valve covers and everything else black. But as I looked at the colors at autozone I saw the yellow, and immediately the bumblebee 5th gen came into my mind and I got a better idea. Black base, with 2 IROC stripes, yellow on bottom and white on top. Heads will be yellow, and the intake will be white.
Since I am gonna put together a TPI-like intake, I will just let that be the remaining black to match it all up lol.

Let me know what you guys think of crazy paint scheme, cheers.

Out to start derusting these heads..

 

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/456478/rust_removal_tip/

This might be useful if you're lookin to take the rust off your heads without spending hours grinding....

 

Wow those heads look horrible, you can get a good set for pretty cheap just put an ad in your local paper and your phone will not stop ringing. I put an ad in the paper for a block and people won't stop emailing me or phoning me theres so many choices... if you really wanna wake up the 305 get new heads, they will be the one biggest power improvement that TBI will see! it's a must if you wanna play with the big boys.. and you really need a diffrent intake manifold that stock one is just not up to the task especially if you go with bigger heads bigger cam and exhuast, you'll bottle neck the sh*t out of the engine.

 

hey creep, if i put an lt1 cam, springs, exhaust, headers, edelbrock intake for tbi, projection tb. what else should i do? i herd 305 tpi heads are good cheap way. let me knwo wat u think i should do, and wat u think about my mods

 

Yet there is no point in doing almost any of that until I learn to tune, which is what this next year is dedicated to. Next winter is when I will concentrate on go fast goodies. I'm just getting her breathing and ready for the next year.

Killacamaro: Those are the basic mods for the TBI, and will make a great street car, with around probably 250 flywheel HP, But if you want to wake the TBI/305 up, you need a SIC cam. So I suggest the LT4 HOT CAM, which is what I will be using next winter. And yes, the TPI heads (82-86 416, 87-92 081) are great selections for HP, but only if proper porting is done.

 

well i never herd of putting the lt4 hot cam in a car. all i herd was about the lt1 cam. i guess ill have to read up on that.

thanx for the info, i am basically doing what u are doing, waking the beast up from a 3 year sleep. i just wanna be able to drive. soo these mods will do for now. and then i can save up for a nice new motor or new heads. which ever i feel like doing.

if u have any other suggestions to the rebuild or anything i should change for the rebuild please let me know. any gaskets i should change or whatever. thanx

 

Sooo...
Time to kill 56k.

Took last night and the better part of today to get the heads sanded down, they looked oh so much better before I painted, unfortunately I didn't get pics of them after I cleaned them up.
BUT! The heads came out so vibrant and awesome, I couldn't help but take a few extra pictures, I even forwent my plans to do the intake in white, and went with yellow in it too.

Before..:




(Intake was pre-last paint stage.)

Rather mad that I found out today the Mr. Gaskets I got for Intake/Heads and etc are crap. Gonna just chalk up my losses and trash them, I know no one will buy them lol. Gonna pick up some good copper ones on the next paycheck that comes around.

And before I am done for the night.. Do you think I could take this nut off put a piece of thick metal on the bolt so I can make an exhaust hangar, and put the nut back on there?

(Nut right in the middle of the picture.)

 

And After screen shots: (TG made me break it up. )

 

yellow....heads...pretty damn ugly if you ask me!

Isant your car, red and black?

Did you say your going to add some white into the engine bay also? Do i see broken accessory bolts in the heads still also??

You may want to rethink that bright of colors on a daily driver...they will get pretty dirty pretty fast.

 

Actually, it will be a fully black car with yellow IROC stripes when I get done with it. When march starts, I am gonna start sanding it down to start painting the rest of the car. I like red, but only on a fully red car with black to break the red up, and I want my first car to be fully black, work to do it be damned.

I was going to do white, but I fell in love with the yellow after I did the first head haha. Even bought the white spraypaint and everything. I will probably let the chrome do the talking to break up the yellow and black. (PCV/Breather/Oil Cap/Open Element)

Black's a bright color? Yes, I know it gets dirty easier. But I am going to start learning to detail and give her some actual baths this year.

Nope, just bits of paper towel to prevent paint from getting in the holes.

Don't worry, I'm just half crazy.

 

It's a good start but i would get a different cam, go to comp cams site and fill out a cam request form and they will give you a perfect cam for your car. The projection tbi is awsome becuase it has a built in AFPR and flows more, but you will not be able to use the edelbrock manifold becuase the holley is bigger. They suggest you use a square bore manifold with an adapter plate (wich is better anyways becuase you can use any manifold you want). theres another company out there making TBI units for cheaper but i can't remember what there called, I would much rather have the holley anyways. I'm not sure about those heads but the 416's and 602's are the best flowing 305 heads to my knowledge and you can find them at any junk yard. This is just my knowledge from when i had my 94 tbi truck.
----------
I know its your your car and your choice but i would re-think using white and yellow paint man.. its going to be more like dark grey and orange all the time and when people ask you to pop your hood so they can see your engine your going to be embarrased with all that dirt and grime showing everywhere. Youll be able to see leaks and cracks though!!

 

Thanx for the info, can u specify an intake manifold to go with my mods? as for the lt1 cam, im very short on cash rite now, just doin the mods that i got for cheap, and sum1 told me to use that cam. also yeah i pickd up the holley for 150 brand new, so i cant complain.

the edelbrock tbi intake manifold u say i cannot use... i dont understand why???

as for the heads, im gunna wait on them until i get her on the road and going. i know plenty of yards will have them, do i just look for the gm model # on the heads itself or what cars do they come off?

 

Cams are cheap man get the best! the edelbrock intake is made for a stock tbi unit the holley throttle bores are bigger and the blades would get jammed in the manifold and you could possibley bend or break your throttle blades. you can those heads on trucks too just keep your eyes peeled for early 80's gm's and bring some tools pop off the valve covers and check the numbers they will iether end with 416 or 602 but theres other good heads out there im not too knowledgable in the heads department. check ebay or our classifieds I'm sure youll find some. the engines that had these heads came off of with the 4BBL carbs had 190hp and 240trq stock! If you can't afford a rebuild save up for a bit, buy parts one by one and once you get everything you want THEN start make sure you have money in the bank becuase there is alot of hidden costs.

 

Well, if the yellow paint does become a nuisance, then at least it isn't permanent, as I am thinking hard about switching to aluminum trickflows when I start changing things out. Of course... It does feel like my dremel can shape the walls of my current heads, I might try my hand at porting these and see if I can get me some good returns.. Is a dye grinder the same thing as a dremel?

Gonna finish up a list of sensors to replace (plan on replacing all of them.. wideband o2 ftw) and head to bed I think..