It's alive! Sending unit came and the car runs again. Now I'm getting a code 33 and code 45. Apparently one of the causes could be a noisy plug wire. One of mine is exposed so I need to replace them.

Hopefully it's that simple. Never is though.

 

so everything you just said isn't a tune, maybe just maybe what this guy is saying is true, just cause your 2010 ss was slow don't mean his car is

 

Looks like a great project car! Nice find.

 

Mini update. Had a very productive day on the car yesterday. New wires and distributor cap, got the rear end perfectly centered, new driver's side front seat belt, and I figured out why I can only turn the wheel 3/4ths of a turn to the right before it locks, and I can turn left until the wheels rub: one of the previous owners put the steering wheel on crooked and aligned the car to the wheel.

Put the wheel on straight (not really) and attempted to align it, but couldn't complete because one of the tie rod adjusters is completely frozen. It's still better than it was.

And then of course because my car is the way it is my front right wheel bearings ate themselves. Started with a squeak and then the wheel started wobbling so bad my tie rod end started chewing up the inside wheel weight. Doesn't make any sense, I did new inner and outer front wheel bearings last year.

I'm also experiencing positive camber now that I have the car with a little toe-in. Could this have lead to premature bearing failure? Before I was sitting with toe-out (to a larger extent than my toe-in now) and negative camber. I don't understand where the camber change came from, I never touched the strut towers and they're all the way inward.

Edit: Now that I think about it, it might be the tie rod end because of how hard I was cranking on that tie rod adjuster trying to get it loose. will investigate when I get home from work.