GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Got busy with some other things, and working OT doesn't leave the energy to work on the car at night.

Shift plate sticker arrived from Hawk's which is an easy install. Also finally got around to measuring and placing an order for Techflex from WireCare.com

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

I was able to get an LS1 steering wheel/column from a fellow CMC racer who was parting out a car. The wheel and airbag were in great shape. The threads on the shaft however were buggered up and the connector for the airbag had a crack. Between the three steering columns (this one, my donor, and the 3rd gen), everything should work out fine since they're pretty much interchangeable. I was able to remove the coil assembly from the 'CMC' column and fish the wiring out of it for the airbag and steering wheel controls. Then I disassembled the connector from the donor and put it on the coil assemble.





Next up is disassembling the 3rd gen column. I ended up taking it all the way down to the tilt mechanism to get the airbag/radio control wires to go thru. I don't see how anyone can fish the harness thru like when replacing just the turn signal assembly! It was a pain to try it. By tearing it down all the way to the tilt, I was able to make sure those bottom 4 bolts were tight. Mine were regular bolts and not inverted torx. This thread was a good help in my teardown.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...-steering.html

Interesting note, my steering wheel had 3 phillips head screws for the turn signal switch that I'll replace with the 3 torx from the 4th gen. I also used the 4th gen white plastic horn retainer thing since the 3rd gen had a crack.

The plastic part over the dimmer assemble broke when I removed it. I've had to pull the wheel down previously to make the switch work. Not sure if it's related or if the switch just moved. Need to see if I have a spare plastic cover on in my storage before getting the rest of it back together.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

In typical fashion, when I was almost complete reassembling the column today, I saw the "wire abrasion shield" on the passenger floor. Had to go look in the service manual to see where it was supposed to go. Much easier coming apart for the third time to get it put in place.

Also put in a new white letter turn lever with cruise and delay wipers (AC Delco 25110866) and new hazard pull. Nice that GM prewires so many options in these cars for easy upgrades.

In a pleasant surprise, the airbag connector at the bottom of the column plugged right into the 3rd gen harness. I had read people on here splicing, but I guess they just cut the top wires.





Woo-hoo steering wheel radio controls! Need to get the engine harness back in to test everything.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Took a wheel and the centercaps to an NTB by my work. Took some explaining, but they let me put the wheel onto their tire machine. I had some of it taped off with blue painters tape. I popped in a centercap, and stepped on the lever to spin the wheel. Took some 100 grit sand paper and slowly started scoring the centercap. Did another pass with 150 grit. I probably should have done a final pass with a finer grit, but didn't want to take up too much time.

Still very pleased with how they turned out. It's still a different sheen than the wheels, but does knock down the drastic difference between the 'chrome' of the centercaps and the machine finish of the wheels.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

My order of Techflex finally came in from wirecare.com. Planned on doing some or most of the hoses too.



Got the power cables wrapped up with the colored flexo flame retardant stuff. Also did the heater hoses with their Insultherm and radiator hoses with their Gorilla Sleeve. Accidentally bought a size too big Insultherm HD for the A/C lines. Once I work on the rest of the wiring harness and see if I need any more of the other sizes, I'll get the proper one for the A/C lines.





Not looking forward to doing the rest of the harnesses. I did buy a cheapo hot knife, so that should make things go a bit better. Leaning towards using zip ties rather than electrical tape around the outside of the looming.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Absolutely brilliant idea

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

^^^ This, avoid. I've used zip ties enough now to know that eventually, even if they are not by a heat source and out of the reach of UV, they become brittle and prone to cracking. A good 3M electrical tape by contrast will last a helluva long time. Use Zip ties until you are 110% sure of your wire placement and lengths and everything is together. Then cover the wires in loom and cut off the zip ties as you go.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Really funny you mention that.



This afternoon I brought in the lights/fuse box harness and did exactly as you mentioned. Removed the remaining factory loom, cut off the red zip ties and used some 3M 33+ to bundle it together. Still need to figure the proper length for the headlight sockets.

The place I was considering using the zip ties was after I put the loom on, at places such as a T in the harness where a couple of wires exit the loom or where the loom size goes down in size. Factory uses electrical tape around the outside of the hard plastic loom in those places. I just wasn't sure how well the tape would stick to the Techflex. Easy enough to test it on a little piece.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I use tech flex on most wire bundles and you are right in that the electrical tape doesn't stick well to the tech flex over time. However it does stick very well to itself so I do at least one revolution of tape tightly around the tech flex and then around the tape itself. I haven't seen any issues with the tape coming off the tech flex this way. Disclaimer though, I haven't driven the car that much but it has been a year since I had the engine harness taped up and it has idled a decent amount.

StansFBM

Techflex looks great! I did not know about that type of loom - but I like it!

SteelDirigible

iTrader: (2)

Great looking build, looking forward to referencing this when I get to doing my own swap.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Now came time to work on the gauge cluster, and do something to remove the yellow numbering. Remember my first attempt?



Ultimately, I'd like to use the LS1 cluster. It looks better, more modern, and has the information center in it. And it should be easy to get it all to work, right? I took another third gen cluster and started to gut it and the bezel.



I was hoping that I could bond or attach the LS1 cluster to this so the mounting would be simple. Well.... that LS1 cluster is simply much taller in the center section.



It fits 'okay' in there by itself, but any hope of using either clear lens is just not there. I was really putting my money on being able to get the LS1 cluster to install to my liking, with a clean look to it. Part of my plan was to order a custom 'oversize' gauge face from 6le/mcnord to make it not look so much of a round peg in a square hole, but they are no longer making them, and don't think have been for some time.

Aftermarket full round gauges just don't really fit the theme of what I want this streetcar to be. I know that might be the simplest route to take tho.
Time to make another plan of attack.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

A few months ago, I came across a build that used the Dakota Digital VHX cluster. Not quite exactly what I want, but close. A bit expensive, but as someone else pointed out, a full set of Autometer gauges ends up being about the same cost.

I hopped on the DD website, and fell in love with their new HDX line. I emailed them asking if they had plans for the '90-'92 Camaro in the HDX line. They replied it wasn't on their immediate radar.

This past week, I started playing around to see what it could look like if they end up making one. The VHX reuses the trim piece. I think the HDX would require a bit of trimming of the trim piece, or a 3D printed one.




I sent DD those two pictures asking if they do custom HDX clusters, like they do with the VHX line. Unfortunately, they're just not at that point yet. They liked the layout, and I hope they follow something similar if they do end up producing them.

So, I think my best bet is the VHX. If the HDX comes out later, it wouldn't be anything difficult to upgrade to.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

I started a layout of what custom touches I want to do with the VHX cluster.

I emailed the Dakota Digital custom shop with my ideas and modifications to see what they could personalize the VHX for me. They offer this service, I just don't know to what extent. It's a bit of a slow going process. Unfortunately, it's holding me up finishing looming the engine harness, since you must use their oil pressure sending unit. I'd also use their water temp sender for the gauge and keep the other for the PCM.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Finally finished off the headlight harness wiring. I was paranoid about cutting the wires too short, but found the stock harness from the b4c to help guide for lengths.

Installed ceramic connectors from HiPoParts for the 4 H4 headlights.


All headlights powered thru relays housed in a Littlefuse HWB18 power distribution module for easy access with 12ga GXL wire, and it uses on of the holes from the original F/P relays. Only thing not there is the DRL (low beam filament on the inner lights) which comes thru the C100 for the fog lights.


One for the low beams, one for the outer high beams, one for the inner high beams.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

It's a tiring job, but someone's got to do it. Dog-sitting my parents dog who supervises work in the garage.



Things buttoned up again for the most part. Airbox and fuse box mounted for hopefully the last time. Engine harness just needs to be loomed and plugged back in. Removed the MAF to replace the screen with one from SaxonPC, only to realize after I removed the old screen, he sent one for a stock LS1 MAF and not the 85mm MAF.

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

Tell me more about your cruise control. Is it the F-body module? It's mounted by the air cleaner?

I'm using a Cruise module from a 2005 Monte Carlo that is a little smaller and SHOULD work......we'll see. The cable is a little too short meaning with it mounted to the throttle body it holds the throttle blade about 1/2 open. I have a few thought's on making it work but wanted to know more about yours.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, it's the F-Body module that requires the extra wire to the PCM.

It's mounted under the airbox, with the orb of power moved to the passenger side under the battery.

Front of the car is up in the picture. Drilled 2 new holes. Ground wire goes to a bolt for a brace.


Wiring and cable come thru the opening in the fender. Power wire goes to that single wire connector on left side of pic which feeds from the fuse box.


Wiring terminates into a repurposed C105 connector which fits nicely into a tiny hole in the strut tower. From there, the other 8 wires will join with the engine harness to snake into the car thru the passenger fender opening (not currently installed). Right now I'm seeing what connectors and splices I'll need to make to get it to hook up with everything once inside the car. Bought and installed a new turn stalk, which plugs into existing wiring in the column. There is also existing wiring that takes those 3 control wires to a C209 connector that is right were the PCM is. Swap in the brake and clutch switches, pull power from the Automatic (TCC?) switch on the brake switch and tie one wire into the positive brake switch, and I think I'm good to go.


The cable does kinda float for now. I'll tie it down a bit to the booster or wiper motor, but it's definitely not hidden.

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

Have your been to Third Gen fest? My goal is to have my car there this year. It's in a south Chicago suburb.

mcgarnicle

iTrader: (14)

I don't know what you do for a "regular" job, but I think you need to quit and just build LS swapped 3rd gens


I did my swap about 3-4 years ago and rushed through it. I think I'm finally at the point that I can go back into it and fix some of the things I didn't have time for, and your build has certainly opened up a lot of ideas.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

You can use their OBDII adapter, this pulls the data out of the engine computer and will display it on the dash, so you don't HAVE to run their temp and speedo senders.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Nope. I do really want to try make one or some of these gatherings. They're all just so dang far away from Houston.

I'm a structural designer for an Oil & Gas engineering company. I don't think 'customers' would be happy with my turn around time!

1/2 a step ahead of you. I just ordered a 2nd OBDII port just for that purpose. The STAR connector has a wire to the original OBDII and to the LS1 cluster. I'll just run the latter wire (and power/grounds) to the new OBDII port with the DD adapter. This way I can still have full time access to the original OBDII port.

As you mention, I wouldn't have to run their speed sensor and with the OBDII adapter, I won't have to run a wire from the PCM to the cluster for the speedo either. I'll probably still run a 2nd temp sensor since I think you can fairly easily swap between the two readings/sensors on the gauge cluster.

The adapter also solves (I hope) another issue, fuel level. Their documentation says the OBDII link might be able to be used for fuel level. Since the PCM originally sends this info to the cluster as serial data, I hope the DD module can interpret it. This will allow me to keep the EVAP and diagnostics functioning since the fuel level still is being read by the PCM. There's a few threads about it being either or. Either you can have an aftermarket fuel gauge, or you can have the PCM see the fuel level to determine EVAP and misfire diagnosis.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

New screen came in from Halltech. It's a perfect fit, tho a bit pricey. The diameter and depth on the Halltech is spot on. If I hadn't already popped out the old screen to put in the Saxon piece, I probably would have just left the stock one in place.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Too excited not to share. Got the rendering of the custom VHX gauges from Dakota Digital. Very please with how it looks. Only change from here is I had them fix the tick mark over the 100° back to white. The brake, CEL, and cruise will all be in the tach. Said it'd be about 5 weeks but they'd send me the sending units, wiring, and the OBDII BIM module sooner.

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

I like the look! I'd think the odometer should be under the speedo though...

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Thanks! It's a bit of a mix between their black alloy background and their carbon fiber background. My biggest complaint about the black one was the semi-circles around the gauges and the semi-circles in the bezel weren't concentric or whatever. Removing the perimeter lines on the gauges helps take your eyes away from that I think. That and I hate driving cars with only 20mph increments. Speed is something I want to be able to determine at a very quick glance.

Agreed about the odo. I think they've just got it shown backwards here. The standard ones have the odo under the speedo. I asked about reorganizing the aux gauges, and although they didn't exactly say no to that request, they didn't incorporate it either, so I imagine electrically, it'll be the same as the standard ones... I hope.

Neil350

iTrader: (1)

Really cool thread, I am also from the Houston area, Katy/Cinco Ranch. The Harvey pictures brought back some memories. I have the Alston SFCs as well, it's interesting you were able to make the Hooker cross member work with modification. I figured the Hawks/Spohn was the only option.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Is the entire unit new? Is it going to be free of the known defects of the stock unit?

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Thanks. It's not exactly the way I would have done it, but it's functional and allows for removal of the trans. I'm not far from you in Lakemont, down off Mason Rd, south of West Park Tollway.

Had to reread that twice. Thought you were saying the DD VXH had known defects and I was like, noooo! It was difficult finding the few people that do have this cluster. But, yeah it's all new, so I imagine/hope it doesn't have the same flaws. The only part you reuse is the trim piece and the rubber dust shield around the steering column. I've seen some people reuse the stock clear piece too, but it's not necessary.







Asides from the wiring, it really is a bolt-in job.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Got all the parts for the bump steer kit in. UMI 3060 bump steer kit, Seals-It 5/8" seals from Speedway Motors, 5/8" Safety washers from Barne's 4WD. I like the UMI stud better than others. Some are threaded pretty much all the way, or use a jam nut top and bottom. Others are only threaded at the very bottom so you need spacers above and below the joint. The UMI one, with the spacers I used, still had the shear on the shouldered portion of the stud, and you have the option of trimming down the unused threaded bottom if it interferes with anything. As it was, the safety washer is what ended up being the limiting factor.



I didn't remove the springs, but I think with the 3/4" extended ball joints, the tie rods are nearly parallel with the control arms with .750" of spacers.





Picture is deceiving; it's close but not that close. If I end up getting 1.7" wheel adapters to replace the 1.5" adapters, it'll only get more clearance.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Do you remember what the part number was on the 3/4" extended ball joints?

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Howe 22429 with Spohn BJB-1 boots.

zya5point0

iTrader: (4)

That gauge cluster is sweet! Only a 160 speedo tho?

Neil350

iTrader: (1)

Front suspension looks great, I am at Westheimer and Fry road, so not far at all. In fact the body shop I was looking at using Body Pros collision is right at Mason & Westpark toll road. I look forward to seeing your car on the road.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

With the VHX in my truck, you can display anything you want on either screen, you just have to go in the options and set it all up. It's kind of annoying with just the one/two buttons, but it works.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Had a bit of a waiting period. I had a free weekend, and needed something to do so the project wouldn't sit stagnant.

I had hoped not to have to pull the dash, but the only way to get to the wiring to route everything neatly was to do it. I bit the bullet, and unbolted it.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Received my care package from Dakota Digital; the pre-install kit with the control module and sendors, and the obd kit.

Armed with more metri-pack connectors and now with the senders for the oil pressure and water temp, I finished up the wrapping and looming and completed the engine bay wiring. I went ahead and used the DD water temp sender in the rear passenger head for the gauges. It was a tight fit between the A/C box. PCM still uses the stock one in the front drivers head. I'll be able to view both with the new cluster.

Got the transmission connectors connected, cruise and engine connectors connected, starter and exhaust bolted back up. Harness goes thru the factory 'grommet'. Only regret is it doesn't go directly over the blower box, but rather the blower motor so that it'll reach the PCM mounted in the factory location. Put the fender liner and wheel back on, and the car is once again back on the ground. Tightened the strut brace for the first time. It's DONE under the hood.







In hindsight, I should have waited a week to pull the dash, then I could have started the car again and hear it with the full exhaust.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Just a note, I had/have problems with the sending unit that came with my VHX. It isn't long enough, with the adapter, to get into the coolant. I know I have a different engine, BBC, but since the sender isn't long enough, it is influenced by the air/parts around it. At first I had it in the head, but that's near the exhaust manifolds, so when I would stop the temperature would quickly rise. I thought I was overheating all the time since I didn't have a fan shroud. After a few weeks of that I checked in the Holley ECM and saw the coolant temp, sender in the front of the manifold, was relatively constant. So I put the sender in the front of the manifold, next to the Holley one. This has proven to be a better choice, but it is still too short and is still influenced by the air temp around it. When I am driving it reads a tad low compared to the Holley, and when I stop, the temp climbs a little, but much slower. I know with my Autometer gauge and adapter for my LS engine, the sender was also too short, so you may have a similar issue with your engine. Just so you know why there may be a discrepancy between the two temps.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Never thought about that. Thanks, that's good to know.

Years ago my roommate and I were doing a performance rally with SCCA in a '75 Monza, and had what we thought was over heating issues. During a service, we cut the bumper cover opening more. Later we cut some vents in the hood. Later still, we shot an IR gun at the radiator hoses and saw the temp reading was normal. Put a bit of tape over the gauge and finished the rally. I wonder now if our problem wasn't so much a defective gauge as it was something similar to what you are describing.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Took a break from the interior wiring and pushed Nessie outside for a wash. Still need to raise the front a touch and lower the rear a tad.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Trying hard not to rush things. I feel like I'm close to getting it running again. It's so tempting, but no, I'm taking my time trying to do it right (mostly). I've removed all unnecessary connectors and wires from the harness. For the TBI (vin E), there are a lot of things in there for the automatic transmission that I took out. ECM wire and VSS buffer also removed. The VATS and airbag module is still there. Going to relocate OBDI port near the airbag module.

Some other things are being added, such as wiring for the autodim/homelink mirror, steering wheel radio control adapter (Axxess ASWC-1) to use with the Pioneer head unit, Mobilistics DRL-7 box, and a simple 'hidden switch' security diode/relay. Also wiring in no-load flashers (EF32RL) and spliced in the brakeswitch to T to both the cruise and to the white terminal of the turn/hazard switch. This will now make the brake and turn lights work like the Trans Am.

One thing I'm not sure is if the LEDs I have will draw enough to satisfy the cruise for the brakes. I'm not quite sure on the technical side, but my understanding it the CC module disengages when the brakes are applied. It also senses the equivalent of a least one good incandescent bulb when the brakes are not applied. I know they sell load resistors, but I don't like the idea of that much heat. Some people have used a relay, so I may try that if needbe. Failing that, I'll contact the maker of BergvillFX Electronics SmartBallast.



Wired in a 2nd OBDII plug to use with the Dakota Digital gauge cluster when it arrives. Otherwise, I'd have to use the one, and unplug it and lose the gauges if I had something else plugged in. I'll need to switch the channel of the BIM unit to get this working properly.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Christmas came early...







Really pleased with how it turned out. Props to Dakota Digital.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

That looks a lot nicer than a stock cluster

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

From the 1st post ...
Here's my excuse for not working on Nessie lately. Too giddy not to share. I didn't think this would ever be possible.

2005 Aston Martin DB9. V12.

Picked it up near Oakland, California for less than the price of a new base corvette and drove it back to Houston, Texas.

So some of the 'money' work on Nessie will be postponed a bit, like A/C, recovering the seats or engine/trans rebuild. I will still get it up running and driving soon. Probably the only person in the world with an Aston Martin and two third gens in their garage.

rurnt88

iTrader: (1)

LOL! Car Guys! Whata ya gonna do with em! Congratulations!!

I've been hanging around here since the 90's, and this is the first DB9 I can recall seeing owned by a member.

Well. . . don't just sit there, pictures of that V12 are required. Interior shots and driving impressions please. Love the color too.

Well done!

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

Love the gauges. Did Dakota Digital rebuild your stock cluster? Is that a catalog option of theirs? I am thinking this looks better than stuffing aftermarket gauges in there.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Thanks! If I was going to buy Aston at the edge of my budget, it had to be green. Both me and my wife work, no kids, and don't have many other vices other than the cars.

It only had 12,500 miles on it. Drives smooth, steering is a bit heavy. Not a super nimble sports car like a Mini, but very comfortable. Effortlessly passing on two lane roads and sounds amazing in tunnels.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

It's a completely new cluster (see post #229) that uses the stock bezel on the very front. It's their VHX-90C-CAM model.
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd962.htm

(Ignore the bubbles, the protective film is still on the lens)


This is their "custom" pages. Mine is semi-custom since they could use the VHX-90C-CAM as a basis and just change the graphics.
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd214.htm

I sent them a detailed list of changes such as the icons instead of OIL FUEL etc and the tick marks I wanted along with the .dxf file in post #214. They only changed I think $150 or so for the changes. The biggest thing that bothered me with their original one was the circles aren't concentric with the factory bezel. Removing the perimeter circles on the gauges helps my eye not focus on that.

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

It looks fantastic. Thanks for the write up on this.

STREETDEMON

Just made my way through the thread. Very nice build! I'm interested to hear how the exhaust sounds. I really dig the custom gauges as well. I'm a sucker for the yellow tint on the later cars, mine is a 1991, something about a period correct feel.

I was the first one on the board to run the headers you purchased, the BRP supplied ceramic coating is still going strong after 7 years. Mine is catless and I'm running a Hooker Aerochamber in the back. I've been considering going to a single tailpipe with Dynomax Ultraflow or Magnaflow like yours, but love the way the Aerochamber sounds, nice and calm at cruise with no interior drone.