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This is my 83 Z28. I bought it off of Facebook Marketplace after I seen the ad. It had been sitting in a garage for 28 years. I made an offer on it and it was accepted. I jumped on the Greyhound bus to Springfield Ohio and grabbed a truck and trailer from the local U-Haul and trailered it home
My car did not come with any keys so I took the ignition cylinder out and took it to the local locksmith and had it rekeyed. It cost me $10. I had taken the driver's door lock also but it was too corroded and would have taken too much work to get right so I just ordered new GM cylinders and keys for the doors and rear hatch.
That will be quite a project. 5-speed or auto? Is it blue? What color inside? Did you verify that the 8th digit of the VIN is the number 7? That's the code for the L69 HO engine in 1983. Most people think the code is G, and it was for 1984+, but it was 7 in 1983. I hope the dual snorkel air intake is still intact. If not, then it will be difficult to find a replacement. Congrats and have fun! Welcome aboard.
That will be quite a project. 5-speed or auto? Is it blue? What color inside? Did you verify that the 8th digit of the VIN is the number 7? That's the code for the L69 HO engine in 1983. Most people think the code is G, and it was for 1984+, but it was 7 in 1983. I hope the dual snorkel air intake is still intact. If not, then it will be difficult to find a replacement. Congrats and have fun! Welcome aboard.
It's a 5 speed. It's blue with blue interior. I have the complete dual snorkel set up but the hoses have seen better days. I'm working on a way to repair them. I had a gentleman send me both air ducts from Spain. My car was missing one of them. The 8th digit is definitely 7 and the car has the Z28 High Output badging also. Thank you for the Welcome!
My engine was seized up from sitting so long. I removed the spark plugs and put some PB Blaster in every cylinder and let it sit for four days. I attempted to turn it over by the crank and it was still not moving. I then cut off all the belts and realized that the smog pump was locked up and all of the belts were frozen to the pulleys. Once I removed the belts I tried turning the engine and it loosened up. Boy was I happy!
I had to change out all of the fuel lines and the fuel pump. I did the fuel pump first and attempted to start the car and once the fuel pressure built up it was like raining gasoline. I guess that was a good way to drain the tank of old gas 🤣🤣
There's a guy on youtube with videos where he gets locked engines to crank and start. In one video he does is a 3rdgen with TPI. He makes a concoction of fluids, then pours some into each cylinder through the spark plug holes and let's it sit for awhile, like you did. Then once he gets them cranking, he drains the crankcase and fills the engine with fresh oil, then he tries to fire them up. He always gets them started. They don't always run well, but they start.
Not bad on the duct work. If it's sealed well, then it should work fine while you shop for something better or find the real thing. But that passenger side scoop seems to be the Holy Grail. Good to see you have it.
There's a guy on youtube with videos where he gets locked engines to crank and start. In one video he does is a 3rdgen with TPI. He makes a concoction of fluids, then pours some into each cylinder through the spark plug holes and let's it sit for awhile, like you did. Then once he gets them cranking, he drains the crankcase and fills the engine with fresh oil, then he tries to fire them up. He always gets them started. They don't always run well, but they start.
Not bad on the duct work. If it's sealed well, then it should work fine while you shop for something better or find the real thing. But that passenger side scoop seems to be the Holy Grail. Good to see you have it.
Vice Grip Garage! I subscribed to his channel. He gave me a lot of hope!
My engine was seized up from sitting so long. I removed the spark plugs and put some PB Blaster in every cylinder and let it sit for four days. I attempted to turn it over by the crank and it was still not moving. I then cut off all the belts and realized that the smog pump was locked up and all of the belts were frozen to the pulleys. Once I removed the belts I tried turning the engine and it loosened up. Boy was I happy!
Wow! What a relief! Nice work on the ducts. Enjoy the journey!
It should have a 3.73 axle ratio. Probably not posi though. Posi wasn't available to HO cars in 1983, but there have been rumors that some got it. A new over-the-counter Dana 44 posi/disc axle for 3rdgens became available to compensate. Danas pop-up from time-to-time. 5-speed only in 83, but here, too, rumors of some autos. VIN code 7 for the HO engine is 83-only; G in 84, 85 and 86.
It should have a 3.73 axle ratio. Probably not posi though. Posi wasn't available to HO cars in 1983, but there have been rumors that some got it. A new over-the-counter Dana 44 posi/disc axle for 3rdgens became available to compensate. Danas pop-up from time-to-time. 5-speed only in 83, but here, too, rumors of some autos. VIN code 7 for the HO engine is 83-only; G in 84, 85 and 86.
It doesn't have Posi😩 I don't know if I'm going to change out anything right now but I would like to find a rear disc axle with Posi. Don't know if a fourth gen will work or not.
Yes, 4thgen axles will fit. Same design and mounting points. However, 4thgen axles are a couple of inches wider on each side outside of those mounting points, so 3rdgen wheels will stick out too far on a 4thgen axle. Rear wheels will need more offset than stock 3rdgen rear wheels have, so the cost of changing the axle will also come with the cost of different wheels. All in good time, unless you're under the gun for reasons of your own.
Yes, 4thgen axles will fit. Same design and mounting points. However, 4thgen axles are a couple of inches wider on each side outside of those mounting points, so 3rdgen wheels will stick out too far on a 4thgen axle. Rear wheels will need more offset than stock 3rdgen rear wheels have, so the cost of changing the axle will also come with the cost of different wheels. All in good time, unless you're under the gun for reasons of your own.
I'm going to have different wheels on the car. Factory wheels will be for storage purposes. Thank you for the information!
Since you'll want to be able to reinstall your 15" wheels when you store the car, then you should look for a 93-97 posi/disc axle with "LT1" brakes (or a 3rdgen 10-bolt posi-disc axle). The "LT1" rear brakes are the equivalent of 89-92 3rdgen Performance Package rear brakes and hear tell 15" wheels should fit over them. The rear brakes on the 98-02 4thgen axles with "LS1" brakes will be too large for 15" wheels.
But you'll have far more and better options if you eventually dump the 15" wheels altogether, because trying to keep them for storing the car will limit what you're able to do with the car when it's not stored.
If originality and restoring the car to such a state or semi-state is a goal, then 3rdgen axle and brakes will be your only choices. But that will be the point.
A Dana 44 will turn up for sale every now and again. They were available with 3.73 and 4.10(?) ratios. That's the best of all 3rdgen-specific axles and another Holy Grail for a 1983 HO car, or any 3rdgen, IMO. I've been told by a brake upgrade specialist that its backing plates have the same bolt pattern as a 10-bolt, and it will accommodate all of the same rear brake upgrades that are available to a 10-bolt. That would be awesome. Don't hold your breath though lol.
BTW, if you ever decide to upgrade to a better manual transmission and a hydraulic clutch, say a T56 6-speed or a stronger T5, then put me down for your current bellhousing. The 1983 T5 bellhousing is a one-year-only bellhousing, and it does NOT accommodate a hydraulic clutch. Me first, please!
Since you'll want to be able to reinstall your 15" wheels when you store the car, then you should look for a 93-97 posi/disc axle with "LT1" brakes (or a 3rdgen 10-bolt posi-disc axle). The "LT1" rear brakes are the equivalent of 89-92 3rdgen Performance Package rear brakes and hear tell 15" wheels should fit over them. The rear brakes on the 98-02 4thgen axles with "LS1" brakes will be too large for 15" wheels.
But you'll have far more and better options if you eventually dump the 15" wheels altogether, because trying to keep them for storing the car will limit what you're able to do with the car when it's not stored.
If originality and restoring the car to such a state or semi-state is a goal, then 3rdgen axle and brakes will be your only choices. But that will be the point.
A Dana 44 will turn up for sale every now and again. They were available with 3.73 and 4.10(?) ratios. That's the best of all 3rdgen-specific axles and another Holy Grail for a 1983 HO car, or any 3rdgen, IMO. I've been told by a brake upgrade specialist that its backing plates have the same bolt pattern as a 10-bolt, and it will accommodate all of the same rear brake upgrades that are available to a 10-bolt. That would be awesome. Don't hold your breath though lol.
BTW, if you ever decide to upgrade to a better manual transmission and a hydraulic clutch, say a T56 6-speed or a stronger T5, then put me down for your current bellhousing. The 1983 T5 bellhousing is a one-year-only bellhousing, and it does NOT accommodate a hydraulic clutch. Me first, please!
I'm really just thinking out loud right now. I'm going to keep the car as original as possible. I would love to have four wheel disc though
There's a guy on youtube with videos where he gets locked engines to crank and start. In one video he does is a 3rdgen with TPI. He makes a concoction of fluids, then pours some into each cylinder through the spark plug holes and let's it sit for awhile, like you did. Then once he gets them cranking, he drains the crankcase and fills the engine with fresh oil, then he tries to fire them up. He always gets them started. They don't always run well, but they start.
Not bad on the duct work. If it's sealed well, then it should work fine while you shop for something better or find the real thing. But that passenger side scoop seems to be the Holy Grail. Good to see you have it.
It should have a 3.73 axle ratio. Probably not posi though. Posi wasn't available to HO cars in 1983, but there have been rumors that some got it. A new over-the-counter Dana 44 posi/disc axle for 3rdgens became available to compensate. Danas pop-up from time-to-time. 5-speed only in 83, but here, too, rumors of some autos. VIN code 7 for the HO engine is 83-only; G in 84, 85 and 86.
I found a Posi/Disc rear end from a 1984 Firebird. It has 3.23 gears. The car has 86k miles. Is this a good rear end?
I found a 3.73 posi rear from a 22k mi Z28 and the posi didnt last 5k mi for me. 3.23s are a great gear though and they sell posi units every day so depends on what they want for the rear.
I found a 3.73 posi rear from a 22k mi Z28 and the posi didnt last 5k mi for me. 3.23s are a great gear though and they sell posi units every day so depends on what they want for the rear.
I found a 3.73 posi rear from a 22k mi Z28 and the posi didnt last 5k mi for me. 3.23s are a great gear though and they sell posi units every day so depends on what they want for the rear.
Well I got ripped off. I bought the rear end and didn't bother checking it out until I got home. It's not Posi. The wheels spin opposite of each other. The guy sent me a picture of the rpo codes and he also told me that it was a Posi rear end. Well at least it has disc brakes.
Unless this axle came from a low mile "cream-puff", there's a good chance that the original limited slip diff. would have been worn out anyway. The factory gear set in a desirable ratio and the disc brakes were always likely to be the best parts of that deal. Now you can get a new, quality differential, and you are in business.
Unless this axle came from a low mile "cream-puff", there's a good chance that the original limited slip diff. would have been worn out anyway. The factory gear set in a desirable ratio and the disc brakes were always likely to be the best parts of that deal. Now you can get a new, quality differential, and you are in business.
So all I need is the parts to put inside of this rear end? I don't know anything about it that's why I was just trying to get the complete rear end.
Unless this axle came from a low mile "cream-puff", there's a good chance that the original limited slip diff. would have been worn out anyway. The factory gear set in a desirable ratio and the disc brakes were always likely to be the best parts of that deal. Now you can get a new, quality differential, and you are in business.
I returned that rear end and got one from a 98 Trans Am. I took the cover off and was not able to read the numbers on the ring gear. I also cleaned up the axle trying to see if I could find any numbers. Can you please see if you can get anything from the attached pictures?
I returned that rear end and got one from a 98 Trans Am. I took the cover off and was not able to read the numbers on the ring gear. I also cleaned up the axle trying to see if I could find any numbers. Can you please see if you can get anything from the attached pictures?
12 41 means it has 12 pinion gear teeth and 41 ring gear teeth which equals 3.42 ratio. Can also just make out the yellow posi-traction springs
in the first picture.
12 41 means it has 12 pinion gear teeth and 41 ring gear teeth which equals 3.42 ratio. Can also just make out the yellow posi-traction springs
in the first picture.
Okay that's 12 41? I thought it was 40 11. 3.42 should be okay with my T-5?
As a ratio, sure. My '91 RS came with 3.08s...3.42s would have been more fun. It's a good middle of the road ratio...not as totally economy minded as a 2.73 or 3.08, but not as crazy to live with as a 3.73 or 4.10.
As for a speedo gear, that's another story, and one I have no idea on the answer of.
Well I got started on the first upgrade on the Z28!
Everything came a loose really easy. Ran out of daylight so I'm back to it in the morning. Weather permitting that is.
Finished up the rear end installation. Just got to run the new brake lines and wait until my crossed drilled and slotted rotors and pads to be delivered
Congrats on the Z28! I got my '83 HO many years ago. My brother in law used to own it and it sat in a gravel driveway for over 8 years uncovered and broken down. Look very much like yours, 5 speed, 3:73 one legged rear with aluminum drums etc. He said the tranny was out...and it turned out the trans was fine, it was just the shift rods were gummed up inside. Loosened/cleaned them up and it was fine.
But - my engine was locked up and wouldn't start. Yanked it out and sent block/heads to local machine shop to get heads overhauled and engine cleaned up / bored .030 over and new cam bearings installed. Got lucky and found one of the last E4ME carbs on the planet back then as a rebuild from Autozone no less! Ran with that for about 8K miles and decided I wanted a little more grunt....so it was replaced with a SBC 400. Just message me if you have any Q's....I'll try and help. Good luck with it!
Congrats on the Z28! I got my '83 HO many years ago. My brother in law used to own it and it sat in a gravel driveway for over 8 years uncovered and broken down. Look very much like yours, 5 speed, 3:73 one legged rear with aluminum drums etc. He said the tranny was out...and it turned out the trans was fine, it was just the shift rods were gummed up inside. Loosened/cleaned them up and it was fine.
But - my engine was locked up and wouldn't start. Yanked it out and sent block/heads to local machine shop to get heads overhauled and engine cleaned up / bored .030 over and new cam bearings installed. Got lucky and found one of the last E4ME carbs on the planet back then as a rebuild from Autozone no less! Ran with that for about 8K miles and decided I wanted a little more grunt....so it was replaced with a SBC 400. Just message me if you have any Q's....I'll try and help. Good luck with it!
Well I completed the Big Brake upgrade today. Still have to run the new brake hoses and lines. But the hard part is done. The old stuff Trimmed the spindle and drilled and tapped the holes for the caliper bracket. Bracket attached Adding the hub Slotted and drilled rotors Attaching the caliper bracket All done. There's no interference at all!