i thought you were using that duggans setup?

 

No, the chambers turned out to be 38cc, and E85 is not readily available here. They are conversation pieces for now. Also, the heads even with IDA webers would require a different hood. I'm hell bent on keeping this hood.

I'm thinking stroker ls or LS7 with some mods....should run nicely.

 

were the duggans for an ls motor i dont remember? when the thread said ls i was thrown off because i just had no recollection of you talking about putting one in there.

 

no, they are regular SBC heads. LS was decided after the duggans were x-ed off the list. I traded the LT1 T56 for this LS T56. I initally had the correct trans for the reg. SBC. So...LS it is now.

 

gotcha, well its looking good, im gonna go back and see what i missed since i was thrown off haha

 

gold wheels..hmmmm

 

How about Bronze?

 

Beautiful setup.car is looking amazing

 

i think the gold would have to be closer to lower stripes color to pull that off. on the gray iroc those wheels looked perfect

 

I was aiming at photoshopping the same color as the lower body color but it's difficult to shop black to gold. So...it's meant to be the same and would be the same LOL

 

Marck

After your done with the car send it back to me and I will give everyone my honest opinion on your work after about 2 years of driving it.

 

probability of that happening < 0%

 

It's a start!

 

 

LS1 is in after grinding the moroso mounts.









This is with 1" set back, plenty of room but the driveshaft is a little right so instead of 41.5" I'm getting a 41" one.

Ignore the quickly hacked/welded crossmember. It's non functional. I'm going to get some alston inboard SFCs and fabricate a mount off them. The way it's now I don't have exhaust clearance and I want it to run besides the tranny.

Rad fits too...well..almost LOL. Need to cut that large bulge off the steering box so I can get a hose end on the oil cooler part and I need to cut and angle the lower rad hose connection





I wanted to install the mcleod 4th gen master and didn't feel like taking the damned pedals out again. The 4th gen stud is SMALLER than the 3rd gen. Doing searches here in the past I could have sworn it was the other way around. Also, the high pedal issue..is it caused by the location? I doubt it, the location is very similar in relation to the shaft. I had a clevis that was the right ID but it's too wide, the stud on the 3rd gen pedals is too short... frustration!! I decided to take a short cut. I removed the rod end from the aftermarket master and fabricated my own clevis. There's plenty of sideways play because of the wave washer, no play af all in the direction of the pedal. Done, this will slip right on.



3rd vs 4th pedals, not a lot of diff between the pos. of the clevis

 

I decided the C5 conversion is pretty damn hideous...well...the caliper at least. It's got too much of a production look to it, not "pro touring" at all...so, I got some C6 Grand Sport calipers without logos (Kore3) thatI'll stick on. Might as well upgrade to 14" front brakes. I'd like to keep the 2pc rotors so I'm going to see if coleman or wilwood makes a rotor that bolts to the baer hub (if anyone knows the baer hub patter, 12 boltson ??? diameter)

Never liked that the C5calipers are remanuf. cores with dents and scratches.

This is going to look soooo much better


Also bought some mac SFCs so I can start fabbing my trans mount off them when they come in.Wasgonna go with alstons but since I'm going to cut them up the macs were a better deal since they were significantly cheaper.

 

Hey hey hey, don't be insulting my C5 brakes! LOL, but on another note, those C6 calipers don't just bolt onto the C5 bracket, do they?? I'm curious what exactly is needed to use those over the C5 setup.

 

I'm pretty sure they do.GM used the same spindle for all those years, brakes are interchangeable...so that means the rotor diameter and other differences are in the caliper/rotor combo, not the spindle...and with the C5 adapter brackter your spindle mimics the C5/6 one....

I just checked with Millers listings...look like I'm right, one size fits all

http://flynbye.com/catalog/i165.html

 

Now that is awesome. So essentially, I can buy C6 rotors and calipers and bolt them on... I like the sound of that. Won't be doing it anytime soon, but that is great to know for down the road. Cars looking great too. Can't wait to see more progress!

 

I think so, I guess I'll find out soon enough

 

Those Kore3 look clean. I ran into the same issue with the clutch pedal on my
hydraulic conversion. I ended up removing the factory 'worn out' stud and
installed a fatter/longer one. I also have no 'pedal hight' issues with the
adjustable master cylinder.

Cars looking good.

 

Man.... Reading this makes me wanna get back to my poor neglected camaro... and actually line the under body instead of paint. Love this build!!!

I'm super jealous of the rims!!!

 

I still have a couple of stewart shock pumps lying around (have 2 new ones still) so I figured I'd use those instead of a tilton electric pump for a rear end pump. The prob is, the shock pumps area little on the long side for a dropped rear so I came up with a cam system to drive it. Haven't worked out the details completely yet but this is probably how it should go. Vid shows it moving with a 2:1 ratio cam.

This is an old worn one, the internal seals are compromised...that's where the gurgling sound comes from. Just using it for mockup so I don't scratch up a new one.




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-d1WP...ature=youtu.be

 

Turns out these z06 calipers need massive wheel clearance, I need to run 10mm spacers up front and back (yes will use hubcentric ones), not a problem since I already have extra long arp studs....I had a sneeking suspicion I would need them.



Somehow I can't find the pic of the front, that side is simply bolt on. Do need new larger rotors though.

The rears are a set of lightly used ones, probably erturned because the crappy paint is falling off, I cleaned them and blew most of the paint on the inside of the caliper off with compressed air. What great quality ahum



tight fit with the wheel..ignore clocking, the caliper will hang off the rear, don't have a bracket finished yet







for a parking brake I will use the wilwood spot calipers I have lying around.

To get the fays 2 to clear the sway bar I had to fabricate my own spacers, yet again (same issue on the camaro) and this time I was lucky I welded the sway bar pedestals to the axle so I don't have to use the u bolts, I used allen heads instead.



still needs adjusting



also welded some mounts to the radiator so it sits on the rad frame, has rubber cushions and is flush with the top of the car. Need to close the big opening so air won't flow there.

 

car is simply amazing dude.. well done so far

 

Simply Amazing work

 

Where did you get that gas tank cap/cover? Also, does it sit recessed like that or is there a part not shown in the pic? Thanks!

 

Joes Performance, I made the adapter piece to bol it in recessed like that...but I threw it away, it's too much...too much lil wayne LOL

 

lol, yeah a little. Im trying to find one similar to whats in your pic for my 82 but something smoother that just flows well with the car.

 

I also have an atl one on my 82 corvette race car, it's insane priced though. They have several sizes but they do not lock. Also, you have to cut the filler tube and hook up the alu funnel with a hose.

 

hello, i will restore my camaro.
where can i find this kits of new bolts ? there is zinc plated ?
or it's original bolts who are plated ?
sorry for my English, i come from Belgium

and great job twin turbo !
slai34

 

Wow, that last shot of the whole underside on the lift is GORGEOUS! Thing is really coming together man.

And it appears that the C6 brakes do in fact "bolt on" to the C5 brackets? I have lots of wheel clearence so this may be an upgrade for me in the near future.

 

That sway bar mount is fantastic! Really nice job on the car.

 

French or Dutch Belgium? Anyway, the bolts are old bolts, cleaned and plated.

I always reuse my old bolts if the heads and threads are ok and not rusted too badly.

heap of bolts and misc. stuff as of now



rotors tend to rust too...soo..... off to the platers

 

french belgium, how you cleaned your old bolts ?
it's you who plated or a society ? the price ?

good idea for the rotor !

 

I blasted them, some I used a wire wheel.

the plating is done by a galvanizing/plating company. There's bound to be one in your vicinity. I don't knolw what it costs, it was done in multiple batches but a bucket full is only 30 bucks or so.

 

thanks ! i have find a compagny.
i like your job !

 

How do you know what bolt goes where?

 

I know where everything goes from memory, it's not that har when you consider the bolt sizes and grades

 

yah once you've done these cars for years like some of us have, you know where they go. It seems daunting to just look at the pile, but when you know you know...

 

To make it more challenging there are metric and unc&unf bolts in there from multiple cars, some from corvettes, some from 2nd gen f bodies and some from an 83 C10 truck ..and some misc. spare bolts that were lying left and right LOL

 

I got some goodies in too...a beefier than stock alu driveshaft



I also got my MAC SFCs in, they are different from the ones I have on my gray camaro...weird, maybe those were alstons?? I could swear they were MAC.. anyway, these have open tubes, I'm going to cap that off. Also the weld pads are a little different. I'm going to tack them under the car and fabricate an incorporated tranny mount and torque arm mount on them. Since my car is an 82 it only has the 2 forward trans crossmember bolts and I don't like the long force arm with a normal X member...and I need to mount the TQ arm off it too so custom it is. I'll have them blasted and powdercoated after because the powdercoat on the other ones I have is junk. The entire car is clean (driver clean, not spit shine clean) on the underside but the 2 SCFs look like they have been part of the titanic

Also got a monster billet flywheel in and some small stuff so I can go ahead and do some more tinkering.

Engine wise I'm about to pull the trigger on a big LS engine I need more pwoer, lots more power. It's got to become a road fighter and show those porsches and ferraris here a little sumthin sumethin

 

This is my solution for a TQ arm mount/transmission mount. Something that doesn't load the carp out of the threads on the front subframe. Also there's plenty of clearance to stick an exhaust pipe on the pass side. For the drivers side I will fabricate a bracket to move the tranny mount to the rear of the x member. the bracket will bolt to the stock 3 tq arm mount bolt holes and the 2 for the std. trans mount. I can then route the pipe right where the mount is now and merge then after the SFCs.

I'm going to get some spohn SFCs and incorporate those in there too.





The section is not removable now (it's just tacked in place for now) but I will cut out the center and make it removable with something like these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-RHINO...#ht_500wt_1180


These mac sfcs hang considerably lower than the ones on my gray iroc (which I bought new from someone here, I think they are alstons), the alstons are a lot closer to the floor. I like them better, they have the tubes capped off and the ends are angled. I cut the square ends off these so I could drill a hole and mock them up in plate with a small self tapping screw, i will use it for relocating them in exactly the right spot later on. Will cap off the pass side one, the drivers side I will probably use to route the battery cable through since I will relocate the battery to the rear.

 

awesome looking car and setup on all counts...

 

Love the updates definately one of the nicest early thirgen firebirds I have seen being built. I like the thought and caliber of build you are doing and cannot wait to see how you finish it off.

 

Fabbed the driveshaft loop today


look at my quickie solution for a not fitting u joint LOL I only had a small 1310 yoke, I need a 1350.

Also found the exact tubing clamps I was looking for...these are the ones I will be using to make the X member removable.



Was fighting the clutch setup today I hate working under the dash and sure enough the rod was too long so I modified it, made a new clevis, installed it only to find out I need a 90 deg AN to NPT adapter to clear the brake booster...oh joy!

 

is that the ballistics fabrication tube clamp? my friend has a few of those on his jeep has rolled it a couple times and they still work fine. strong pieces for sure and he swears by them

 

Yes, they are from ballistic. I need them to be strong, because of the tube incorporating the tranny mount, the tq arm and ds loop. Don't want stuff to break there LOL

 

yeah i know, lots or torque in that area, i was just giving my personal experience with them. ballistics has alot of nice stuff ill be putting in a large order with them when its time to do my SAS swap in my 88 K1500

 

I came up with this to relocate my trans mount so I can stuff a large (3" possibly) exhaust pipe between the rear of the trans and the crossmember, right under where the stock mount is. I will probably add a little gusset from the flat plate to the little welded on tube to spread the loads, however it's a lot beefier than it looks, the upper plate is stepped with a double bend with the tube welded on it.