1987 Trans Am
#1
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Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: V8 305
Transmission: 700 R4
1987 Trans Am
Here is my trans am I picked up pretty cheap. Needs a little TLC but its a sharp car. I put on a brand new front nose cone aswell as a passenger fender.
V8 305 with a 700R4 Auto Transmission
62,000 Original Miles
T-Tops
V8 305 with a 700R4 Auto Transmission
62,000 Original Miles
T-Tops
#3
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Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: V8 305
Transmission: 700 R4
Re: 1987 Trans Am
$1200, I had bought it from an estate and they lived in a different province and since the economy was so bad there they just sold it instead of driving it there. Nobody could get the car started they thought the engine was seized or needed a starter. I went to look at the car, and I was able to turn it by hand so I knew it wasnt seized, I brought them down on the price by a grand and I got it. I got the car home, pissed around with it couldnt figure it out I took out the starter tested it all was fine put it back in, then I had the bright idea to turn the key on and cross it at the starter, I did that and boom. Started like a champ, it was sitting for 2 years and it started right up. The cause was an Old imobilzer that was in it, apparently they tend to mess up alot. Thus, I installed a custom push button start under the dash and there we go. Now my daily driver.
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Car: 87 Trans Am, 99 WS6, 16 Mustang GT
Engine: LB9, LS1
Transmission: 700R4, T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi, 4.10 Posi
Re: 1987 Trans Am
Real nice. Looks like you got a great deal.
About the nose cone, do you mean a front bumper cover? If so, where did you get it? Is it used?
About the nose cone, do you mean a front bumper cover? If so, where did you get it? Is it used?
#5
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Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: V8 305
Transmission: 700 R4
Re: 1987 Trans Am
The nose cone is the entire front peice that goes up to each fender. Also it is Brand new, from MPI.
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#8
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Location: ohio
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Car: OVRMYHD
Engine: H/C/I LS1
Transmission: 4L60E 3,200 Edge stall
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/3.90
Re: 1987 Trans Am
any chance you know how to contact mpi? and are you satisfied with the bumper cover?
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Car: '85 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
#10
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Car: 88 GTA/86 C20 Burb/91 325i
Engine: L98/454/M20
Transmission: 700R4/NV4500/Getrag
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt/3.73 14 Bolt/3.73 IRS
Re: 1987 Trans Am
Hey,
I think I have the solution to your no starting problem. Happened to me too. Check the linkage running from the ignition switch down the steering column. It should be a metal rod that runs to a plastic box that is attached to the steering column. On mine, the box had loosened up over the years and slipped down towards the firewall on the steering column.
The rod moves into the box as the key is switched on. This is what provides power when the key is in the "run" position. When you push the key all the way forward to "start", the rod is supposed to enter the box further, causing power to be sent to the starter solenoid (large purple wire in the harness). If the box has loosened up, then the rod never enters far enough to send power to the starter solenoid. Check the large purple wire with a voltmeter. When you have the key in the "start" position, you should have about 12V running through that wire. If you don't, either that box has loosened up, or it's bad.
I'm betting that's your problem. Happened to me when I was putting in my T56. I accidentally hit the box on the steering column when I was trying to put in the new pedals. Loosened it enough that it wouldn't start anymore. Moved the box back up and it's been working ever since.
-cal30sniper
I think I have the solution to your no starting problem. Happened to me too. Check the linkage running from the ignition switch down the steering column. It should be a metal rod that runs to a plastic box that is attached to the steering column. On mine, the box had loosened up over the years and slipped down towards the firewall on the steering column.
The rod moves into the box as the key is switched on. This is what provides power when the key is in the "run" position. When you push the key all the way forward to "start", the rod is supposed to enter the box further, causing power to be sent to the starter solenoid (large purple wire in the harness). If the box has loosened up, then the rod never enters far enough to send power to the starter solenoid. Check the large purple wire with a voltmeter. When you have the key in the "start" position, you should have about 12V running through that wire. If you don't, either that box has loosened up, or it's bad.
I'm betting that's your problem. Happened to me when I was putting in my T56. I accidentally hit the box on the steering column when I was trying to put in the new pedals. Loosened it enough that it wouldn't start anymore. Moved the box back up and it's been working ever since.
-cal30sniper
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