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Man thats a beautiful car, actually that whole garage is beautiful i love every car in there lol
What part of wa are you in i just moved from the kitsap area.
I read through your stumble/idle problem and it's completely feasible that your base idle was the culprit, glad he got it fixed without ripping into it too deep. TPI is very sensitive to the base idle and TPS voltage being in snyc.
With your headlight door problem, suspect a corroded connection because the problem is intermittent. Time + humidity works it's way in. It could also be the module, but hopefully not. What I wouldn't do is change the motors. The probability of both of them crapping out at the same time would be low.
Nice fleet by the way. These were the cars that were new and out of reach when I was 21 years old. I am GM brand loyal, but these days the history is more important than the allegiance. This past summer I gave a guy in a 5.0 LX the OK sign, in the past I would have just ignored it.
Man thats a beautiful car, actually that whole garage is beautiful i love every car in there lol
What part of wa are you in i just moved from the kitsap area.
Thank you very much. I live in Sequim, near Port Angeles.
I read through your stumble/idle problem and it's completely feasible that your base idle was the culprit, glad he got it fixed without ripping into it too deep. TPI is very sensitive to the base idle and TPS voltage being in snyc.
With your headlight door problem, suspect a corroded connection because the problem is intermittent. Time + humidity works it's way in. It could also be the module, but hopefully not. What I wouldn't do is change the motors. The probability of both of them crapping out at the same time would be low.
Nice fleet by the way. These were the cars that were new and out of reach when I was 21 years old. I am GM brand loyal, but these days the history is more important than the allegiance. This past summer I gave a guy in a 5.0 LX the OK sign, in the past I would have just ignored it.
yep. and am confident that the problem was not the motors since they are both like new (were replaced in 2011 or '12 and don't get much use). i will look into the connections at some point - its just hard to find motivation to hang out in the shop when its 39 degrees in there. having a big shop is nice, but that is a LOT of space to try to heat with anything portable me thinks.
i am thinking about selling the Mustang. originally, the idea was to have the Formula and its opposite/nemesis/equivalent: LX Mustang - both '89s, plus a 67 Chevelle or Mustang maybe to go with my 67 Firebird. i never understood wanting a fleet of, well, basically a bunch of the same car (an 85 IROC, an 86 IROC, an 88 RS, and a 92 Trans Am). the TTA, i was going to flip. now having all three, and all three are very nice, not just considering their age, well, the Formula and the TTA are closer to complete in the "finished project" sense, and at the end of the day, being completely honest, of those three cars, the Mustang just happens to be the least interesting, even though the TTA and the Formula are both 89 Firebirds.
who knows, i might not sell anything at all. i was actually just wanting to get down to three cars in there so i can have the rear floor space to lay down some wrestling mats (Juijitsu/MMA training).
As per Jack at Precision Industries's recommendation based on cam, RPM range, shift points, and vehicle usage, i'm going with a single disc, 25-2800 RPM stall. A tad over $900 shipped.
Preliminary results for Precision Industries Vigilante 9.5" 2500-2800 converter:
TTOP350 is 100% money on the drivability improvement. Here's why:
-Before- excessive speed at idle. With 0 throttle, from a stop, car would yank and pull to 15 MPH easily, and from a cruising speed, would not slow to below 20-25 MPH. Excessively harsh 1st to 2nd gear shift, even at parking lot speeds. You could feel it winding up, and then SLAM int second gear.
-After- those situations mentioned above have been normalized, and the car now behaves like a normal car should in those respects. Performance: the car does not feel faster, however some things do feel different. She revs higher and faster...considerably. The RPM operating range seems to have risen considerably as well. This car has always been good for burnouts, but now its just F***IN NASTY. Rear traction has always been an issue but now its a glaringly obvious one.
its been a while since I've posted here, but things are happening.
I've been bouncing back and forth on sticking with the stock 16" wheels or going to a 17" wheel. I'm not a HUGE fan of the Firehawk R15s, but they seemed to be the best choice. I even tried to get enough people here to commit to buying a 17" version of the stock Formula wheel (25 committed buyers were needed).
I ended up locally purchasing a set of used '96-'01 Trans Am/Formula "Sportline" wheels (like on TTOP350's Formula). these ones were chrome, and once I cleaned them up, it was apparent that they weren't in good enough shape to go on my car. so I had the chrome media blasted away (it came off easy), and had them powder coated "Porsche Silver." the center caps weren't perfect so I media blasted them down to bare metal and am customizing those. I purchased the necessary spacers from Hawks, and I have purchased 4 BFG 275/40/17s. these BFGs are of a new design.
this should all be on the car by this weekend. here are the wheels at the Doghouse Powder Coating in Sequim, WA.
They are a set of four spacers (two different sizes) specifically for applying 4th gen wheels to third gen cars. I bought them from Hawks for $260 for the set. I can maybe get you the measurements tomorrow if you need them.
Post up some pictures with them on your Formula when you can. Curious to see what they look like. I have some 4th gen 16" chrome ones I took off my 99. Replaced with 17" Speedlines. Thought about putting them on the Formula.
Post up some pictures with them on your Formula when you can. Curious to see what they look like. I have some 4th gen 16" chrome ones I took off my 99. Replaced with 17" Speedlines. Thought about putting them on the Formula.
1: there will likely be a photo shoot. We've been having some really nice sunsets, and i've been meaning to take some pics (of both the. Formula and the TTA).
2: personally, i wouldnt replace Formula wheels with 16" anything. Those Speedlines might look nice on a Third Gen though.
update: swapped out the dual 10" subwoofer box w/ 2 Sony X-plode subs, for a single 10" subwoofer enclosure with a better quality sub woofer. the old set up wasn't bad, but this one sounds a little better and is a cleaner install. this was actually done a few months ago. bought an identical (but tan) enclosure for the TTA.
the enclosures were purchased from TGO member, Buggy Disaster, who makes a small business of building and selling these enclosures. overall, it was a pleasure doing business with him, and even though there were some weather-related shipping delays that were beyond his control, he kept me abreast of the situation so at no time did I feel like I was in the process of being ripped off. and in the end, I received a quality product that fits very well and looks nice. and the price was very competitive too.
the only criticism I have about the product is that the fit and finish (as far as the vinyl wrap) could have been better. but the "sloppy areas" were the areas you don't see when the box is installed in the car.
I like the new enclosure!
I would like to get something similar, but I reckon I better spend my money on things like fuel injectors so I could actually drive the car. LOL!
not sure if i like them as much as the '96 WS6 wheels that are already on it. i just generally prefer a concave wheel over a convex wheel on a Formula. if i do get these Speedlines, i would have them powder coated silver/w clear coat, or possibly some kind of black chrome.
i can probably get them for about $500. and they have practically brand new rubber on them.
i only paid $150 for the '96s, but had to buy new rubber. for five hundred, the rubber alone is kinda worth the money, i think.
what do you guys think about the way the Speedlines look?
i dont know about "much nicer," but i tend to agree that they look "a bit nicer." i'm still going to buy the Speedlines though ($450). like i said, the rubber alone is worth that.
I took the three '89s to the coin op car wash today (TTA, 5.0 Mustang, and Formula, respectively) to knock the dust and bugs off them so I can wax them.
With the Formula, I ran by the auto parts store to get an extra quart of 5W-30 for the TTA ( it takes 5.5 quarts. Anyway, there was a company van (some contracting company) in the parking lot. As the two contractors exited the store, they were SEVERELY ogling the car - and in their defense, she does cut an attractive figure, especially with the 17x9s. Before exiting the parking lot, they drove "a lap" around the car to view it from all angles.
Then at the car wash, an older woman who works at the coffee stand there, who was earlier admiring the TTA, approached me. She said, "I gotta ask..." In the end, she concurred that, of the three she'd seen today, this blue one was her favorite - and honestly, it really does cut a sleek figure. She asked if she could take a picture of the car. I took the picture fore her because, in my experience, women are not good at shooting cars. Sunsets, selfies, and precious moments - they're far superior, but tend not to capture a sense of passion for the vehicle when shooting a car. (Not YOU, Kymee).
I did not write this (just) to brag. What I really want to say is Third Gens are getting noticed.
I think the color has something to do with it too. The blue is so uncommon to see and the more I look at it, the more I like it. In person the blue is quite striking.
To LS swap or not to LS swap? the answer is yes. but WHAT to LS swap? consider this:
Ok I am interested in trading only way I would be able to do it is if your willing to wait a few weeks as i said before I'm not so finacially sound right now and have a lot of other stuff to worry about at the moment also.
that is an email i received at 2AM this morning. allow me to fill you in on the backstory. as i have mentioned before, i have been wanting to sell off my '89 LX Mustang. i have also mentioned that i am interested in finalizing this Formula with a significant horsepower upgrade (i.e. forced induction or LS1 thru 7 swap). I have also made the assertion that (at least in my area) LS F-Bodies can be had for so little money that it is almost irresponsible not to do an LS swap into a 3rd Gen.
so, while perusing Craigslist i see a guy selling an '02 Z28 with significant rear corner damage. he is asking for 4K - too much considering that there are non-wrecked LS F-Bodies with the same asking price or less. but this seller is interested in a new platform for a drag car. what better platform for that than a Fox Body? I'm asking $5500 for my Mustang. He's asking $4,000 for his Camaro. I proposed i trade him my Mustang for $1500 and his Camaro. seems we both found the "right buyer." So, assuming this guy doesn't flake, i should have an LS donor car on my hands shortly.
Innie Minnie Mynie Mo...
The other dilemma: what to do with this donor car?
On the one hand, i can step up my Third Gen Formula's game with an LS Swap. i'd most likely make it a 383. Or, i can use the same donor car to revive the long dormant 1967 firebird (shown under the car cover in the pic below). i had long envisioned something more grand like an LS2, 3, or 7. but those donor cars are not cheap in any condition, and neither are the pull outs. in that car, an LS1 stroker, (and even possibly turbo or supercharged *more room and fewer limitations on a first gen rolling chasis*) would be no slouch.
Looking good Linson! Thx for the mention. I think I do take more car pictures than selfies and sunsets. Lol!!
every time i let my wife (who generally takes much better photos than i do) take a picture of one of my rides, i'm like, "You know this is supposed to be about the car, right???"
Trans: Buck Nasty's 4L60E.
A/C: scrap it.
Cruise: hadn't thought of that.
Headers: going mad trying to decide. I like the Hooker Blackheart stuff, might try to mate some Hooker LTs to my back half as a temporary measure.
Rear end: a prayer and lots of positive vibes...
Trans: Buck Nasty's 4L60E.
A/C: scrap it.
Cruise: hadn't thought of that.
Headers: going mad trying to decide. I like the Hooker Blackheart stuff, might try to mate some Hooker LTs to my back half as a temporary measure.
Rear end: a prayer and lots of positive vibes...
Built 4L60e- OK. Know the stall?
Must be using an aftermarket ECM? - How can you, the end user, access the ECM (what software)? Ask for details about a decent fuse box (pic attached) . Worth investigating the cruise possibilities.
With that power level, you are not using the stock DS, correct?
Have you been in the tank (pump), lately?
Approximately 450 rwhp will put the hurt on the rear.
Don't know about hookers. 1 7/8 at least and 2 is not too big. I went with Hawk's SW system. Sound is good, but struggled with y-fitment. Exhaust guys said buying a complete system is still probably better - even when modifications are needed. Just preparing you - realistic expectations.
Happy for you!
With all this excitement, you owe the wife a Happy Valentine's Day!
The only way that rear axle is living is if you don't have any fun with the car. Don't draw the line there, just get it swapped before you drive and you won't have the headache of a major repair afterwards. And the resale value of a good rear axle is much more than a worn/broken rear axle.
Built 4L60e- OK. Know the stall?
Must be using an aftermarket ECM? - How can you, the end user, access the ECM (what software)? Ask for details about a decent fuse box (pic attached) . Worth investigating the cruise possibilities.
With that power level, you are not using the stock DS, correct?
Have you been in the tank (pump), lately?
Approximately 450 rwhp will put the hurt on the rear.
Don't know about hookers. 1 7/8 at least and 2 is not too big. I went with Hawk's SW system. Sound is good, but struggled with y-fitment. Exhaust guys said buying a complete system is still probably better - even when modifications are needed. Just preparing you - realistic expectations.
Happy for you!
With all this excitement, you owe the wife a Happy Valentine's Day!
Thanks for the input, TEDSgrad. Very much appreciated.
It will be a built 4L60E, and the stall is yet to be determined - but probably in the 3,000-3,300 range.
Unsure of the nature of the ECM and software, but it is included with the engine. If I had gone with the LS1/LS6, it would have been a '99 - '02 F-body ECM. I will inquire.
I will add [Engine Electrical Fuse Box] to my list of inquiries to make. Will also look into cruise control possibilities.
I had not considered/was not aware that this power level was catastrophic for our stock drive shafts. Are the Inland Empire aluminum ones sufficient? I'm open to recommendations here.
The Formula currently has a Walbro 255. I think that is sufficient.
I was well aware that the rear end WILL need to be addressed. Its just that its a $2,000 to $3,000 hit. It might have to wait a year. I am definitely open to recommendations on that subject as well.
The exhaust is quite a quandary in and of itself. I like the Hooker Blackheart true dual system, but its a $2,000 hit. I haven't completely written off, Hawk's stuff, but am not crazy about their non-mandrel bends. Plus, their Y-pipe is expensive and doesn't even come "complete." I have thought about trying to mate a set of Hooker Long Tubes ($1,000) to my existing Hooker Cat back (for now) but can only imagine that I would struggle, as you did, with Y-pipe fitment. At what point does aggravation override absorbent expense? Not sure I want to find out. I may even have to swap out my Alston sub-frame connectors for some "outer" type SFCs in the end.
As far as the wife? Yeah, this is bad.
Thanks again for this and future input. I will likely be referring heavily to you and your Formula since I think the builds, desired results, and sensibilities are all going to be very similar.
The exhaust is quite a quandary in and of itself. I like the Hooker Blackheart true dual system, but its a $2,000 hit. I haven't completely written off, Hawk's stuff, but am not crazy about their non-mandrel bends. Plus, their Y-pipe is expensive and doesn't even come "complete."
Not all stainless is created equal. Expensive exhaust is made of proper stainless steel, not the cheap stainless that will rust nearly as fast as steel. Still hard to stomach though because $2K is a lot of money no matter which way you cut it.
Hawks does have mandrel bent systems. Try looking at the LSx swap components from the front page instead of driving thru the menu of car types. Better yet, call them and talk it through. I have one of their exhaust systems, header to tailpipe, and it is mandrel bent and even uses V-band clamps. It was expensive but it is top notch by any standard. One thing the Hooker header has that Hawks (Stainless Works) does not is the transition cone in the collector. 2" primary is too large in my opinion, stick with 1-7/8 and your engine will make more low and mid-range torque and be faster overall.
Buying or fabricating a Y-pipe is 6 one way or half dozen the other. The people saving money are the people making their own Y-pipes. I think you're like me in that you would have to pay somebody to do it. Personally, I have never seen an exhaust shop yet that laid a decent weld. I have seen speed shops lay down nice TIG welds, but that is time and time is money. Personally, I'd rather buy a high quality pre-made kit and be able to easily replace it if something gets crunched (which does happen).
I think the decision about what to do for torque arm will play into your exhaust decision. You really should get that torque arm off the transmission tail shaft. There are quite a few transmission cross-members on the market with provision for remote mount torque arm, but only the Hooker has a double hump for exhaust clearance. Downside to the Hooker is it places the engine in a non-standard location so you have to use their engine mounts to pull the engine forward, and you will have to lengthen the driveshaft. That means don't order your driveshaft until everything is in the car so you can measure for correct length.
The Hawks trans crossmember is a double hump design that gives a ton of real estate for Y-pipe to pass thru (much more than Hooker) but there is no torque arm mount. This pathway is usually coupled with a shortened torque arm, such as BMR Track Pak or the Hawks (UMI) Sinister that mounts to the subframe connectors.
I had not considered/was not aware that this power level was catastrophic for our stock drive shafts.
The engine you bought is catastrophic to everything in the stock drivetrain. Your car is going to be violent my friend.
I would get everything packaged up under the car and buy the driveshaft as one of the last items. You want to measure for proper length and you'll need to see what clearance is left for a larger diameter shaft. I was forced to run a steel shaft because I didn't have room left for a larger diameter 3.5" aluminum. Didn't know this until everything was on the car.
I agree with QwkTrip, except on the 2" too big (we're arguing over an 1/8", here). Mandrel bent and v-band clamps are essential to performance and long term ease of use. Buy once and be happy. If the only problem is that it is expensive, but you are happy, do it. You eventually forget the cost, but don't be left with irritation/dis-satisfaction.
Engine mounts and headers should be selected together - know that they work together. If I had to do it over, I would choose Kooks - no problem with SW, but Hawk's got in the middle.
Yes, get the TA off the trans, I chose BMR Trak pak, and did manage to get it around the 3.5" aluminum DS. Trak Pak does require outers to attach. At the least, you'll probably have to shorten (why spend the money), so just get better. The stock DS has a very low critical half-speed - over 100mph and you're at risk.
The fuse box (style, function) and ECM - ask lots of questions and be involved in the decision-making process. I mounted ECM in stock location, and mounted fuse box where battery was (moved battery to pass side). If you just let them do it, you live with their preferences and not your own. You might be happy, you might not.
I modded the Hawks trans cross-member. These guys could probably make you one, but it sounds like they are just delivering to you the built drive train. The pass side is difficult between the frame rail and the trans. I moved the cross-member attach point upward and put bolts through the frame rail horizontally rather than the stock up from the bottom with all the stress on the threads (though there is not a lot of stress on this piece) while using some strong collars. It also eliminated additional thickness from the xmember on the rail, which gave me the room I needed.
I would say go with an excellent exhaust. Limp around on the rear while working out the kinks, then you can spend more on the rear. Strange S60 is overkill IMO, but cost effective. 9" has a higher potential, but they too are costly to get them there. I went with Mark Williams 12 bolt (don't like Moser and Strange didn't have my options). Dana 44 is pushing the limit at this power level. I tried to source my drive line to 650 hp as I will stay N/A.
On this pic you can see where the xmember attached on the bottom (lack of paint), and how I went above and through.
Now that you will have an electronic pedal, you'll need a matching set of pedals:
01-01-2015, 11:50 PM
