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Why didn't you remove the blower housing from the firewall before painting?
I was having some withdrawal symptoms waiting for the next update (LOL!!!)...
Withdrawal, that's funny. I don't know why I didn't remove the blower housing, guess it seemed happy where it was. Does anyone know the recommended wait time for shooting the clear coat after base coat is applied? (for acrylic urethane)
Withdrawal, that's funny. I don't know why I didn't remove the blower housing, guess it seemed happy where it was. Does anyone know the recommended wait time for shooting the clear coat after base coat is applied? (for acrylic urethane)
The instructions from the paint manufacturer will tell you that, but typically it's done wet on wet. Let the base coat flash dry (30-60 minutes) and then spray the clear right away. Depending on the basecoat used, the maximum topcoat time is usually around 8-24 hours (check the instruction sheet for the paint). You can topcoat after that time, but you would need to sand the basecoat first before applying the clear.
Thanks Trans,
I didn't get any instructions with the paint, or accidentally threw away, went online to the TCP website, FAQs etc, and couldn't find instructions. Called to talk to technical help, and after 20 minutes on hold, gave up. Thanks, I figured you would want to spray the clear soon after the basecoat tacks. Appreciate the advice. I ordered a gauge/regulator (which also had a small filter and water separator) to mount on the spray gun. I think I was spraying at too high a pressure at the gun.
Thanks Trans,
I didn't get any instructions with the paint, or accidentally threw away, went online to the TCP website, FAQs etc, and couldn't find instructions. Called to talk to technical help, and after 20 minutes on hold, gave up. Thanks, I figured you would want to spray the clear soon after the basecoat tacks. Appreciate the advice. I ordered a gauge/regulator (which also had a small filter and water separator) to mount on the spray gun. I think I was spraying at too high a pressure at the gun.
I spray basecoat around 26psi, and clearcoat @ 30psi. What size tip is in your paint gun? A 1.3 tip is what you'll want to use
I spray basecoat around 26psi, and clearcoat @ 30psi. What size tip is in your paint gun? A 1.3 tip is what you'll want to use
No idea what tip I have, is 1.3 like the diameter? I will have to check into it. Thanks
Ah, I see that the 1.3 is the diameter in mm. I will measure mine.
Last edited by stuartswede; 05-04-2021 at 08:51 AM.
I realize no one would see it, but you've gone to this much trouble anyway. Be a lot easier to get paint down there on the passenger side firewall if you took out the EVAP/blower motor housing. Just a few bolts on the interior side of the firewall...
Funny you should mention "just a few bolts on the interior of the firewall", guess what I just finished up installing - the brake booster and pedal, with corresponding "just a few fasteners on the interior of the firewall". It was even harder with the drivers seat installed, had to recline the seat all the way back, lay backwards on the seat belly up with my feet in the cargo area, and get my head under the steering wheel without breaking my neck! Luckily I had gathered everything I needed for the job on the floor within reach. I will see if the HVAC housing bolts are a little easier, LOL. Thanks for the suggestion TL. Wait, I just remembered you saying that you didn't pull your booster to paint the firewall, you just taped it off because it was too much of a PITA. Thou hypocrite!! By the way, it was 91 here yesterday, how is your mountain weather there? Bet you have some nice winding hairpin roads to have fun on.
Last edited by stuartswede; 05-04-2021 at 02:03 PM.
I spray basecoat around 26psi, and clearcoat @ 30psi. What size tip is in your paint gun? A 1.3 tip is what you'll want to use
1.3 would be a .051 inch diameter tip. I measure my tip at .092 inches which would correspond to a 2.35 mm tip. Checking to see if my gun will take a smaller tip. I guess a smaller tip would allow a higher paint flow for the same conditions.
Last edited by stuartswede; 05-04-2021 at 01:59 PM.
The instructions from the paint manufacturer will tell you that, but typically it's done wet on wet. Let the base coat flash dry (30-60 minutes) and then spray the clear right away. Depending on the basecoat used, the maximum topcoat time is usually around 8-24 hours (check the instruction sheet for the paint). You can topcoat after that time, but you would need to sand the basecoat first before applying the clear.
TransamGTA350,
When I replied to you earlier it reminded me of a funny thing that happened to me a couple of months ago. I had done a search on black trans ams images for painting and trim ideas, and to just drool and worship a little. So I was enjoying the pictures, when I came upon one pic with a big woman protester, holding a big sign that said "Black trans lives matter!!" Just sayin' it kinda struck me funny.
I’ve been waiting for the paint, so curious to see what a DIY can do vs. having an auto body shop do it. I so much want to paint mine, hence why I want to see yours. I give you so much credit taking on this project. As I do a few things I understand how much work and effort you have done and putting forth. You’re awesome!
I’ve been waiting for the paint, so curious to see what a DIY can do vs. having an auto body shop do it. I so much want to paint mine, hence why I want to see yours. I give you so much credit taking on this project. As I do a few things I understand how much work and effort you have done and putting forth. You’re awesome!
Thanks Dude,
As meticulous as you are, you would be a great painter. It's just getting the mixing right, and preparation and masking. The paint I'm using doesn't need reducing, so 4-1 paint to hardener is pretty sailor proof. If you get runs or orange peel, just put on a few more coats so you can sand it down and then do the gradual step process of finer and finer wet sanding and buffing/polishing compound. Just takes a little patience for a perfect paint job.
It might be a little while (hopefully only 3-5 weeks before I spray the body, I just did the engine bay so I could install my new brake booster and lines. But it was fun to get a look at the new black paint.
I’ve been waiting for the paint, so curious to see what a DIY can do vs. having an auto body shop do it. I so much want to paint mine, hence why I want to see yours. I give you so much credit taking on this project. As I do a few things I understand how much work and effort you have done and putting forth. You’re awesome!
Many very nice DIY paintjobs have been done in garages. It certainly can be done. If you have never done it before, it will take lot's of research on materials, tools and techniques before you start. Also recommend practicing painting something else before tackling the whole car. If you are doing a solid color, you could paint individual panels at a time. Metallic, the whole car has to be sprayed at the same time. Biggest issue with a garage paint job is going to be dust, bugs and other contaminants in the paint. Also, if your neighbor's house is close to yours, you have to consider the odor and overspray. I painted the underbody and engine bay in my garage. It was fun to do and came out nice, but that's as far as I want to go with at home DIY. I'm sending the car out to a paint shop for the rest.
But, spraying the paint is really only 10% of the job. The bodywork and prep is 90%. If that isn't right, it will look terrible.
Installed the last 2 outboard socket, lights are behaving themselves. Connected up new hood latch Cleaned up and painted the rear reflector frames
Wet sanded the headlights with 400 grit just to experiment with the new paint, no prep on them but are looking pretty good now. A couple pin holes and a little residual orange peel.
Looking good.
Can you get me the part numbers for those light sockets?...
Rock Auto
WVE 6S1050 for the outermost, only hook up the brown and black. Same socket as brake lights. It was acting weird on turn signals and brakes on passenger side while testing, but turns out I had a bad bulb in one of the brake light sockets, it was a brand new bulb but replaced it and now works fine. Go figure.
1.3 would be a .051 inch diameter tip. I measure my tip at .092 inches which would correspond to a 2.35 mm tip. Checking to see if my gun will take a smaller tip. I guess a smaller tip would allow a higher paint flow for the same conditions.
As a rule of thumb....the bigger the tip you use, the more product you will put out. The more product you put out, the more orange peel you will have, and it will be harder to lay down a nice, even, wet coat without it wanting to sag. A 2.35 tip would damn near be used for spraying bed liner, or enormous bass boat style metal flake. I spray filler primer with a 1.7 tip for comparison.
I would SERIOUSLY recommend buying an HVLP, gravity feed paint gun with a 1.3 tip. 1.5 at the very max.
FWIW, I am a professional painter at a Chrysler dealership body shop. I've been a professional painter for 19 years. And, like all painters, have done my share of garage paint jobs, too. It is possible to get a very nice result from a garage paint job. I applaud you for tackling this project on your own. It's a TON of work, but the end result will make it all worth while. Just please, do yourself a favor and update that paint gun.....you won't regret it!
As a rule of thumb....the bigger the tip you use, the more product you will put out. The more product you put out, the more orange peel you will have, and it will be harder to lay down a nice, even, wet coat without it wanting to sag. A 2.35 tip would damn near be used for spraying bed liner, or enormous bass boat style metal flake. I spray filler primer with a 1.7 tip for comparison.
I would SERIOUSLY recommend buying an HVLP, gravity feed paint gun with a 1.3 tip. 1.5 at the very max.
FWIW, I am a professional painter at a Chrysler dealership body shop. I've been a professional painter for 19 years. And, like all painters, have done my share of garage paint jobs, too. It is possible to get a very nice result from a garage paint job. I applaud you for tackling this project on your own. It's a TON of work, but the end result will make it all worth while. Just please, do yourself a favor and update that paint gun.....you won't regret it!
I will order one tonight, which would you recommend? Maybe one with a few different tips? My Craftsman only had one choice. Thanks
=stuartswede;6425079]I will order one tonight, which would you recommend? Maybe one with a few different tips? My Craftsman only had one choice. Thanks
You can get a variety of HVLP, gravity feed paint guns for way cheap...and would be OK for a 1 and done. As for versatility, and economy....I would actually recommend a 3M Accuspray Paint Gun. They're around $200, and come with different size tips. They are plastic, and the tips are designed to basically just throw away when you're done with them. It makes clean up SUPER FAST AND EASY. The tips are super cheap. I've used one of those paint guns quite a bit painting farm machinery, etc. For the money...you really can't beat it. It's not something that I would use every day at the body shop, but for a project like yours, and for future projects you may do later on down the road, it would be an awesome paint gun, and LIGHT YEARS ahead of what you're using now. Just the thought of cleaning that siphon feed gun is worth the purchase of a new one
I will order one tonight, which would you recommend? Maybe one with a few different tips? My Craftsman only had one choice. Thanks
I use a Devilbiss 2 gun kit (standard gun & detail gun) that I bought from Eastwood. It runs about $300 for the kit. It's a decent novice level paint gun set that will give good results for occasional use without spending a ton of money.
I use a Devilbiss 2 gun kit (standard gun & detail gun) that I bought from Eastwood. It runs about $300 for the kit. It's a decent novice level paint gun set that will give good results for occasional use without spending a ton of money.
I'd be totally on board with that, too. Devilbiss is a good name brand, and you can get parts for them as well. Way better than the Harbor Freight paint guns that are throw away guns.
Paint guns are just like anything else. You get what you pay for. One of my clear guns is a Sata X5500, with the 1.3 "I" tip. It's around $1,000 after tax. So as a comparison, a $200-$300 paint gun isn't an expensive one, but again, will be light years ahead of a $50 Harbor Freight gun. And a better quality paint gun will last a lot longer, you can get rebuild kits for them, etc. It would last you a very long time if it's taken care of properly, cleaned well, etc, on top of producing a quality paint job.
BEETRO HVLP Professional Gravity Feed Air Spray Gun Automotive, 1000ml Capacity, 14.5CFM, 30-43psi, 1.4mm/1.8mm Stainless Steel Nozzles with Air Regulator, PPS Cup Adaptor and Filter
BEETRO HVLP Professional Gravity Feed Air Spray Gun Automotive, 1000ml Capacity, 14.5CFM, 30-43psi, 1.4mm/1.8mm Stainless Steel Nozzles with Air Regulator, PPS Cup Adaptor and Filter
Perfect. And different tips for versatility. I know absolutely nothing about that particular brand, but I promise that you will be a million times happier with that one. Also, remember that the fluid tip, air cap, and needle are ALL a matched set and cannot be switched around...they must stay together. And, use the 1.4 setup to spray your paint. Use the 1.8 setup for primer, etc.
Missing link, see area in front of the forward end of the lower console, I was sure something was missing. I found the piece today while looking for my plastic screws for the aft rear trim, which I never found. Previously lost in space, remember that show? Danger Will Robinson! Looks finished now. Installed lens and switch And it works, by Jove! Mocked up the new overflow tank for a warm feeling
Then got carried away on the cap, painted with trim black, then let the artist take over.. Black and Gold baby!! Packed bearings and installed new rotors both sides
New rubber delivered today, smells so good!!!! "There's something happening here"
What it is aint exactly clear
Match made in heaven, they so want to be together!
I always liked the tread design of the Cooper Cobra's.. I didn't know they still made them! Cool!!
And....FOR WHAT IT'S WORTH, I caught the Buffalo Springfield reference hehe . Most people probably don't even realize the name of the song is "For What It's Worth" lol
I play that song on guitar and sing it all the time
Oh, and your interior is just plain awesome! I'm a huge originality geek....but I really like what you've done. Very clean and classy looking. Definately one of a kind. Love it
I always liked the tread design of the Cooper Cobra's.. I didn't know they still made them! Cool!!
And....FOR WHAT IT'S WORTH, I caught the Buffalo Springfield reference hehe . Most people probably don't even realize the name of the song is "For What It's Worth" lol
I play that song on guitar and sing it all the time
Thanks Dagwood,
The Coopers are all I ever ran on this car, yes sweet they still have them available. My reference vehicle (the 240 mile mint car) doesn't have raised white letters, but they make the look.
TL
I've been meaning to ask you, looks like your avatar has lights where the grille vents go. I would like to have some sort of driving/fog lights, more to let people know I am there, but still want the stock grills. Any suggestions?
It requires some modification. Much of the plastic "honeycomb" impact absorber material must be removed. The grilles can be opened up between the louvers using a sharp chisel & hammer against a hard flat surface. I have a custom bumper facia so I don't have the grills anymore...
Your car looks very clean and sweet. Why doesn't Rock Auto ship to your city?
On another note; seeing your beautiful new overflow & windshield-washer tanks makes part of me want new ones, but the other part of me says that while mine are a bit yellowed, they function just fine. You're not making this easy...
Actually the washer fluid tank is old, just cleaned and sanded. You need to move to Florida my friend, we need a lot more of your ilk down here.
Last edited by stuartswede; 05-06-2021 at 07:55 PM.
Tried to post this twice last night, but not showing up, will try again
Installed new brake lines from Classic Tubes
Still need to install the clip, got herded into the house abruptly by a nasty lightning storm.
Got my new spray gun, added an in line moisture separator. Can control the pressure at the gun to 26 psi. Thanks Dagwood and TransamGTA350!
Also to lay a little rubber/background, my turbo fin wheels, which I love, can only take a maximum 235 mm or 9.25 inch tire, which isn't too shabby. I plan on buying a good set of Michelins for those, but being inspired by 427seven, to go big or go home I ordered these.
They are P295 50 R15, 11.6 inches, there's a corvette down the street, I always drool over on our daily walk that has something like these on it. Shown along side the P235.
I also got a set of P275 60 R15 to go on the front. Spent most of the day trying to mock up the look. I also have classic slotted dish mags on the way to match. I had a set on my 1974 Formula my last year in high school in 1977.
Actually thinking of going with the P275s on the back and leave the P235s on the front. The P275 is under the wheel well above with the P235 beside. Any comments? I will be able to go back to the stock look with the turbo fins at any time. The P275s are 10.8 inches wide
I may even paint the rims gold and the centers black to match the turbo fin look with the wider tires. BTW, my car had that rear window covering, that came off as soon as I got the car home, and never went back on.
You should just widen your stock rims. Would look cool to have beefy tires on the stock turbine rims. Not exactly sure how it would work but I assume you’d probably have to run spacers.
This place offers that service: https://weldcraftwheels.com/
You should just widen your stock rims. Would look cool to have beefy tires on the stock turbine rims. Not exactly sure how it would work but I assume you’d probably have to run spacers.
This place offers that service: https://weldcraftwheels.com/
What a cool idea, that would be sweet! Curious what the cost would be, they did say on the site to add 50 bucks per wheel if you want the welds dressed.
You are missing 1 bolt in your driver's side motor mount.
And you might want to consider moving those brake lines to the other side of the steering shaft to get them further away from the exhaust.
You are missing 1 bolt in your driver's side motor mount.
And you might want to consider moving those brake lines to the other side of the steering shaft to get them further away from the exhaust.
Thanks Noem,
You have an eagle eye!
On the motor mounts, that was how it was when I took it apart, but come to think of it I remember taking it to Aamco for a clunking noise every time I hit the gas from a stop, and they replaced the motor mounts. That was the problem! I remember taking it to a mechanic friend of mine at the time and he couldn't figure it out. That was the last time they were replaced. The last hole doesn't line up or I would have added another bolt.
I thought about the brake line position, but this is how it was stock, in my "before pictures". But will keep an eye on it after I wrestle the engine back in place.
Back to my boring build, got the brake lines terminated and the rubber hoses secured. Painted and installed the calipers Good thing I painted the calipers Otherwise they'd be naked
Now would you do the other side?
Now everything that can be removed has been removed and replaced with new!! Can install the power plant now!
I think they are powerstop, seriously, why should it matter? Thank you Noem, you are my guardian angel.
It's not so much about the holes and slots, but the configuration of the inner vanes.
The rotor needs to be cooled. It's kinda like having your fan blade on backwards and wondering why the engine is running hot.
Follow the stickers on each rotor as to direction. I am confused myself because a Google search says the opposite. https://www.google.com/search?q=dril...w=1280&bih=884
Last edited by NoEmissions84TA; 05-07-2021 at 09:30 PM.
Just drooling other treads today, since I took the day off and played golf, I came across this quote from Mario Andretti "If everything seems under control, you are just not going fast enough"!! Thank goodness for my radar detector!
05-04-2021, 06:15 AM
. Most people probably don't even realize the name of the song is "For What It's Worth" lol
