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I finally got the kids out of the house, retired, and can restore my old trans am. I am the 2nd owner of a 1983 trans am, bought it from a baker at Publix, many years ago. Daily driver for me for 18 years, and my son drove in his last 2 years of high school. It has been sitting idle for 6 years and I finally have it torn down and am restoring. Oh happy days! here are some recent pics. I have the engine completely torn down. "Cleaned up" the intake manifold, something I have been dreaming of for years. starting to reassemble, with Hedmen headers and a Y pipe, will be 3 inch all the way back. I am really enjoying this. I got some wrinkle paint from VHT for the air cleaner, came out really cool, so used it on the timing cover, with sweet results! A silver sharpie on the air cleaner made the "Cross-fire Injection" label appear like new!!!. Hope you guys enjoy as much as I have today!
Chrome valve covers really good, fifty bucks!
Last edited by stuartswede; 02-24-2021 at 07:53 AM.
Reason: mispelled word
Welcome aboard! I'm glad you are able to get around to restoring it.
You should never start a sentence with "So". So I just got my new cam, seems pretty mild to me, it is a XE250H-10 from Comp. I was reading about the break in, says to remove the inner valve springs, that seems pretty drastic for a 30 minute break in. I have read a bunch of input, but this seems to be a pretty mild cam, is the risk really that great if I skip the spring removal?
Appreciate any sage advice.
Last edited by stuartswede; 02-06-2021 at 06:49 PM.
SO, are you talking about dual valve springs with an actual inner spring, or you confusing it with a flat wire spring damper?
That cam is small and, I believe, should not be using dual valve springs.
Last edited by NoEmissions84TA; 02-06-2021 at 06:49 PM.
Reason: added starting with "SO"
So, My stock heads have an what looks like 2 springs on each valve. I just had a regular valve job and my machine shop replaced the springs and guides with new. No special springs were bought for this cam as it looked pretty mild to me. After a lot of reading, it looks like they want to make sure that the lifters rotate during break in and reduced spring pressure would enhance this condition. Thanks for the input.
Does the flat wire spring damper resemble another spring? Sorry, just re-read your question.
Last edited by stuartswede; 02-06-2021 at 07:02 PM.
I served aboard a Fast Attack Submarine home-ported in New London in the late 70s early 80s. I had a very good friend that lived in Meriden, we made several trips there to visit his family for weekends. I also had several vendors making parts for us there for the space shuttle during my time at Pratt & Whitney, so Meriden is a special place for me. I mean it about buying you dinner for the help with the springs, if we can overcome the mask hysteria.
Last edited by stuartswede; 02-07-2021 at 06:37 AM.
I served aboard a Fast Attack Submarine home-ported in New London in the late 70s early 80s. I had a very good friend that lived in Meriden, we made several trips there to visit his family for weekends. I also had several vendors making parts for us there for the space shuttle during my time at Pratt & Whitney, so Meriden is a special place for me. I mean it about buying you dinner for the help with the springs, if we can overcome the mask hysteria.
They are recommending DOUBLE masks now. WTF?
Dinner not necessary, but I appreciate the offer.
Let's just get this engine running correctly - that makes me happy.
Members have given me good advice, and I try to return the favor to others when I can.
They are recommending DOUBLE masks now. WTF?
Dinner not necessary, but I appreciate the offer.
Let's just get this engine running correctly - that makes me happy.
Members have given me good advice, and I try to return the favor to others when I can.
Thanks NoEm,
Got new pistons and cam installed on Saturday, painted the headers and Y pipe with flat silver (VHT), then a high temp clear coat, actually shines pretty good, forging on.
Last edited by stuartswede; 02-08-2021 at 11:05 AM.
Heads installed today. Hesitant to glue on the timing gear cover, its like a safety blanket having access to the cam sprocket to verify #1 at TDC on compression stroke. I set the cam sprocket and the crank sprocket both at 12 o'clock with #1 at TDC on the compression stroke. Understand that if you line up the marks with the cam sprocket at 6 o'clock and the crank at 12 o'clock, then number 6 cylinder is actually at TDC compression when the line on the harmonic balancer is at zero. Right?
I found this link years ago, gave me inspiration to someday complete my restore! This car is exactly like mine, except for the years and miles. It is advertising a 1983 with 240 miles. If you want a definition of mint, this is it. Pretty cool. It was sold, but the link is still active, there are around 30 pictures there if you scroll down. Enjoy.
I set the cam sprocket and the crank sprocket both at 12 o'clock with #1 at TDC on the compression stroke. Understand that if you line up the marks with the cam sprocket at 6 o'clock and the crank at 12 o'clock, then number 6 cylinder is actually at TDC compression when the line on the harmonic balancer is at zero. Right?
Yes, absolutely correct.
#1 and #6 are at TDC at the same time, but only one cylinder is actually on the firing stroke.
Also, if you havent installed a new distributor gear, do so or you will eat up your new cam over time.
Thanks Quick,
I bought a whole new distributor and the lifters came new from Comp. I plan to use the Comp oil and additives for break-in. Appreciate the advice.
That's one advantage of living in the sunshine state, the winter is the best time to work outside. I read an article back around Y2K showing how to open up the intake to match the head ports, and I had wanted to do a serious restore since then. I cant wait to drive this car again. Hope it warms up for you soon.
Wow - that is all looking SO GOOD! Happy that you can have the uninterrupted time to really focus on it now! You'll enjoy the project so much more! I really like the detailing on the engine!
You should never begin a sentence with 'So". So, what is the significance of subscribing, I noticed that several times so far, I am not looking for any monetary payment for my drivel, if anything I should be subscribing for the excellent advice I have received so far! Searching for enlightenment.
Having turned my attention from engine rebuild to body sculpting I did some homework on U tube University on sand blasting. Some were using the 20-110 pound pressure feed tanks, all required special needs and care it seemed, settings needed to be just right to prevent clogging etc. Perfect media required, blah, blah, blah. And a lot of air to keep up with demand. I have 2 compressors, an old craftsman inherited from my grandfather:
30 gallon craftsman repainted a while ago to match original
And I have a 30 gallon Campbell-Howsfield connected in series with the craftsman. I have painted several cars and a truck with this setup and didn't want to go buy another compressor to enable sand blasting the trans am. I have an old suitcase style venturi that works OK, but you have to keep shaking it, so I decided on the Harbor Freight 20 oz. gravity feed. I saw a video where the guy drilled out the plastic and the valve to about 2 drill sizes bigger, and his results were amazing. Just don't drill bigger than the little O-ring seal between the plastic hopper and the metal handle/valve. The hopper lasts for around a minute or more before needing refill, but that gives the compressors a chance to catch up while refilling the hopper. The little blaster obliterates paint and rust, I was impressed. Wearing the goggles to sand blast, I thought about the old TV show "Rat Patrol" where the guys would drive around in the desert in jeeps with 50 caliber machine guns wearing goggles, shooting at Rommel's troops etc. Raise your hand if you are as old as me! The red bar near the nozzle is the adjustment valve. Very impressed with performance with modifications.
After removing the old battery, I noticed that the battery tray had stage 4, and I removed most of the defiled metal.
Defiled metal removed from battery tray
I was lucky to refer to jworks thread for refurb of the battery tray to enable rebuild of my own. Ordered new sheet metal on Amazon, delivery tomorrow.
You should never begin a sentence with 'So". So, what is the significance of subscribing, I noticed that several times so far, I am not looking for any monetary payment for my drivel, if anything I should be subscribing for the excellent advice I have received so far! Searching for enlightenment.
Because they haven't figured out that there is a way to subscribe to a post without actually posting in it, like it's still 1999
Good morning,
Well I was certainly encouraged by the several subscribers. I thought OP was maybe like the site guru, Operational Processor or something silly. Thank you all. Will be building and welding up the battery tray today, one day closer to liftoff!
Another thank you is in order for that NoEmissions guy. He recommended in another thread to simply machine out the spot welds on the rusted out battery tray and replace with a new one. I would have thought that a new one would be difficult to find and expensive, but before I tried to fabricate my own, I checked, and dad gum, Classic Industries had one for 40 bucks. It is on the way to me now.
I don't have the spot weld elimination tool either, so I sharpened a coal chisel and with a 3 pound mini sledge, separated the old tray from my car. Any suggestions on securing the new one? I don't have a spot welder. Thanks
If you have a MIG welder (even a stick welders) you can drill some holes in the new panel approximately where the old spot welds were and make some plug welds
Thanks Scooter, great idea. I have a little wire feed welder I bought to make repairs to my mower deck. Getting pretty handy with it lately replacing rusted body regions. I appreciate the help.
BTW I just noticed that I am not an OP, just look to the left under my name, I am a TS, Thread Starter! Thread puller at times too...
Last edited by stuartswede; 02-20-2021 at 05:20 PM.
You're welcome Stuart. And you could actually use panel bond adhesive and tek screws if you do not feel comfortable welding for the battery tray.
But, like scooter said above, drill some holes and do what is called a plug weld. You already have a sufficient welder to do this job. YouTube is your friend here for all these new, unfamiliar terms.
Congrats to the Car of the Month for February! I painted my old 240Z that deep blue color, really sweet.
Last couple of days spent cutting out rust and welding in patches. So boring but necessary. I took a break today to play around with my exhaust. I previously mocked up the y-pipe on the engine stand and it looked pretty good. Downstream of the Y, the diameter was only 2.5 inch.
I thought is was 3 inch aft of the Y, but measured only 2.5 inches. So I ordered some fittings and started playing around today. I cut the Y-pipe where it measured 3 inches, and viola. Out with the clogged artery.
Side note: When I was first looking at the Y, I was wondering how they completely welded the 2 pipes to the Y, Would have taken a micro welder to get down there
News flash, they welded from the inside, duh Inside the Y, after cutting off the wimpy restriction
Anyhow, I was able to slip on a 3" ID sleeve over the Y and cut down a 90 and 45 deg to get to the cat location. Came out really good. The cat-back I bought was good quality, they advertised 3 inch, but the pipe coming from the cat was actually 2.5 inch too. I bought a 3 inch cat, and tubing to plumb the muffler and tail pipes all 3 inch. Fun day. Y to cat
In the ballpark Progress
Viva Le Difference
Last edited by stuartswede; 02-23-2021 at 06:37 AM.
Thanks guys, that means a lot coming from you-all, DynoDave, hope your damage was minimal from the fire, especially the "fine Corinthian leather" in the DOBA.
Last edited by stuartswede; 02-23-2021 at 06:14 AM.
I got tired of looking at the old tailpipe hanging under the car, so after a half hour and 3 cutoff wheels, I had it out. Never realized what an ugly octopus it was. I mocked up my new 3 inch cat-back side by side, and looks pretty good. I think it will fit nicely. My first mate Nuc appears in the upper part of the pic (named after nuclear power or nuclear weapons), he is a real camera hound! He told me he has first dibs on shotgun for our test drive.
Looks like it will fit over the axle too.
Any comments or experience with this setup?
This is a cool build, have you thought of adding the Corvette servo to that 700R4? Would be super easy while it’s out, that is if the trans shop didn’t already add one. That is one of my projects this year.
02-02-2021, 07:22 PM
You're on track now. Good luck with the break-in. 
