would this welder be good to weld subframes connectors, light fabrication, and what not

Eric talk to your brother or have him post up

New MIG 100 90 AMP ARC Welder Flex Wire Welding Kit - No Gas

 

it seems like a good one to me i bought an arc welder from the same company and it still works, and it works good to, but i wouldnt buy it online goto, Harbor Freight off of FLORIN rd. in sacramento they sell the same one for the same price 129.99 and you dont have to pay shipping and i think for like $20 more you can buy a lifetime warrenty so if it brakes you bring it back and they will give you another one for free , and they do i had a grinder that broke and i walked in and they handed me a new one in the box

here is some i got on there web page but i say go down there they have alot off nice stuff for cheap the 129.99 one isnt on the website but i know they have it down there

http://order.harborfreight.com/EasyA...ht/results.jsp


hope this helps but i would buy it from the store if possable so you dont have to wait for shipping and damage .

 

ok whats the diference between ARC and MIG welding, and what amps would I need to weld SFC or say a rollbar. I just look'd in the fab. boards and it looks like a MIG is really the one you need when welding things

 

From what I remember in High School, ARC is strictly joining two pieces of metal with an electric arc weld that just melts/fuses the two togther.
MIG is probably the method you'd use where you feed the wire with a welding gun from a spool.
TIG is another method similar to MIG, that is less intense and create nicer looking welds.
Can't say I know what amperage you'd need.

 

I've always liked MIG for it's simplicity. Any monkey can MIG weld. Even me

In answer to your question, that welder would work, however there may be something better for the job.

 

I would look for one that accepts gas. Search on the Fabrication board, if you need more info, just holler.

 

Got a little extra time, thought I'd share some info with you.

When buying a Welder, always buy as much as you can afford.
If you have a 220/30amp plug (like for an electyric dryer) consider a 220v machine.

Gas is great for inside work or outside if it's not too windy, the gas mix is what is used as a flux to clean the area that's being welded.

Flux core has the flux in it and can be used in the wind and generally on dirtier/surface rusted material without the need to clean it up will real.

But, flux core also requires that the wire diameter be larger 9to hold the flux)and more current is used and more heat applied to the metal, which makes doing sheetmetal repair difficult without burn through.

Additionally, you have to chip the slag off with flux before making another pass, or the weld lays on top the flux and doesn't do anything but "glue" things together. Also, with flux on sheetmetal, you can see what happens when you try to chip it off...usually end up dinging the sheet metal which requires more hammer and dolly work later. You also have to chip off any slag before painting, or it'll come off later on down the road.

Gas mix can be welded over with little or no further prepping. A wirefeed welder that acceptes both gas and fluxcore is best...infact I'm pretty sure any that can use gas, can run fluxcore.

Reason for getting the biggest you can afford, is duty cycle. Duty cycle allows you to keep on welding with minimal cooldown time, before going to the next weld.

Some people say no biggie I can wait, but I assure you, after a short while, you'll get frustrated while waiting for the welder to catch back up with itself when in used. The advantage of a 220v welder is they almost assuredly will have a longer duty cyle on the higher settings than the 110v ones.

 

I read your post like SIX(6) times and it still doesn't make sence to me, guess I should take a welding class.

what do you mean the "BIGGEST" amps? or volts?

how about something like this

Clarke 180EN 220 volt 180 amp

 

Lol, sorry, I thought you had some hands on.

Biggest means just that.

I/e if you have you're eye on a Miller 175, but can afford a 200, buy the 200.

You can always turn the heat down on a larger, more powerful unit, but can't get more out of a smaller unit.

Kinda like building an engine, if you had a 305 and a 1500 dollar budget, would you build it, or could you afford another 100-200 to buy a 350 and build? If the last few hundred is a budget killer, then build the 305, if not, step up to a larger displacement.

The 100amp/90amp type units are more suited to draw you in, spend your money and then spend more when you get serious about something.

Your last link to the Clarke would be better for you, but I don't have knowledge of that brand so can't coment on it's durability and such.

I'd suggest looking at Miller, Lincoln, and Hobart if you plan to weld things for the long term.

Most welding manuals tell you in order to achieve proper penetraion on a single pass weld, you need 1 amp for each .001 thickness of material...i/e for 1/8 inch (.125) you should weld with a 125amps at the contact point.

You're welcome to come on down and try mine out, we can set it up to match a smaller unit so you can see what you may be getting into, although it won't mimic a small duty cycle, I can show you what trying to weld 1/8 inch with a 100amp welder looks like, vs turning it up and doing it the right way.

Besides, if it looks like you're good at it, I've a lot of frame work for my shop to build that you can hone your skill at

 

Go gas, much cleaner weld, flux has a way of hiding the weld so you can't see how much penetration or buildup you're getting. NO ARC WELDERS! Newer cars run high streangth steel. Heat anneals, or softens, high streangth steel. The "heat effect zone" on mig welders is much smaller than an arc welder, leaving the surrounding metal in good shape. I would look into buying a slightly used miller-matic 135 as opposed to a cheap off brand welder. Parts are readily available and they are more reliable. It is a 110v so it can be used about anywere. (be sure to check breaker size on circuit) My buddy has a 9 sec. nova with aftermarket front end, cage, 4-linked fab9, all welded with this welder. It has had some bumper scrappin front end slammin tests on it and bends lower a-arms, but welds are all in great shape. Just be sure to practice on scrap and then try to twist pull and beat your welds apart. That goes for the guy who said "any monkey can mig weld"

 

just get that **** so you can do my subframe connectors