89flyboy

I have a 85 trans am 305 TPI with a 700R4 tranny. I am trying to get it smogged and I have a egr vacuum part that is on the passenger side between my valve cover and my intake. My lines to it have been cut, everywhere I look I can not find a new one listed or even where the damn hoses plug into the intake or egr. I only posted it here instead of the main board cuz ya'll would no about smog.
Thanks,
Josh

Copchaser

iTrader: (2)

Are they hard lines or rubber? Sounds like your egr solenoid lines to me. One end goes into your top nipple o. Egr valve, other line goes to more vacuum up front, look under your TB and see if there is a hose attached to it. The egr solenoid Line should be t- connected there. Post pics if you can.

89flyboy

the book calls it a egr solenoid. There are two nipples for rubber lines in the rear and two plastic hard lines in the front I will try and post some pics. I tried calling Marc and Bennie, Marc said he would call me back, left a message for Bennie but never heard back.

Copchaser

iTrader: (2)

Is the solenoid connected to an electrical clip in the harness? So ur saying they clipped it at the back ( the end where the electrical connection is)? The end with the connector goes toward the rear of motor.

89flyboy

I got the vacuum diagram from autozones site so I figured out where everything is suppose to go except the hose on the back of the soleniod. They did not clip the wires but they had broken the hard line plastic hoses off. Now I got all the vacuum lines ran right and was setting my timing and the car died just out of the blue and wont start again. I turned the key off and back on and I don't hear a fuel pump whine or anything. The fuel pump is only a year or less old. the only thing that was not changed was the fuel pump relay so I changed that and still nothing, and it has 3/4 of a tank of gas. I even took a small screw driver and pressed on the pressure fitting on the fuel rail to see if it was getting fuel and again nothing.

89flyboy

I wonder if its this issue?????? https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...regarding.html

Copchaser

iTrader: (2)

Wait about 5 minutes in between key off and key on procedures to make sure ur pump primes. If still nothing, check fuses, then wiring connections. If still nothing...... You may wanna call one of our well sought after mechanics here on the forum.

neagan

iTrader: (7)

Hi Flyboy- just to add to the good advice already given and to clarify. Did everything, including the fuel pump work until you messed with that particular passenger side area? That's where your fuel pressure regulater clips in and is why I'm asking. If it worked before, than logically you bumped something.
Do you own a 3rd Gen and not own a 3rd gen specific repair manual? If you do, let us know which one you DO have so we can reference specific pages, okay?

Copchaser

iTrader: (2)

89flyboy

I do have a Manuel for it and everything was working even after messing with the stuff on the passenger side. I called the PO and he said that everything was replaced but the relay so I replaced the relay and still nothing I checked all the fuses and they are all good. I waited till the next day thinking it maybe related to the other thread I posted and still can't hear the pump and still won't start the car came with a extra ecm so I tried that sense I was not getting any check engine light with the key turned to the on position and still nothing guess I will be dropping the tank, for a new pump. Anyone in vacaville wanna help with a pump on a tank that is 3/4 of a tank full??? Lol
Thanks,
Josh

Copchaser

iTrader: (2)

Hold on a second... U are not getting anything when u go from key off to key on? No fuel pump, check engine light... Does anything light up? Do ur gauges respond to power (battery voltage reading) does radio turn on.? Before u go dropping the tank, BE ABSOLUTELY SURE thats the problem. If ur getting nothing at the key, u may have N ignition switch problem, which would account for no fuel pump response. Or a dead or under charged battery.

89flyboy

Correct I am only getting a seatbelt light but that's all I was getting before and the car ran great. The key still goes through all the postions and has spring tention to pop it outta the start function. I have a hard time thinking its a switch or a ecm when everything was working perfectly till just all of a sudden it died but I could be wrong here my other project is a 2nd gen so the computer stuff is all new to me lol.

Copchaser

iTrader: (2)

Ur check engine light should come.on EVERY time u go key off to.key on. Then go off while u.crank, then off after car starts, unless ecm detects an issue. I would investigate that first. Attacking these little gremlins could solve ur fuel pump issue down the road.

89flyboy

Ok thanks for all of your help hopefully i can figure this out soon I really wanna drive it before the rain starts.

89flyboy

Ok so update, I had an extra ECM laying around so I swapped them out and turned the key on, still nothing. I got into it to look at the ignition switch and it looks brand new. I loosened the gauge cluster and found out there ones no light bulb where my check engine light is, so I put one in, still no light or pump noise. I read in my book that to check the fuel pump you can run a battery supply wire to the G terminal of the ALDL so I am gonna try that next. Man I have two T/A's and can't drive either of them I am dieing here lol.
Josh

antoine

I think its a 20 amp fuse by the battery for the ecm check that.

89flyboy

The fuses are all checked and good I wonder if the check engine light issue is do to the circuit board its all seperating. But I am still trying to figure out why my pump died it was working just fine and then I bumped the starter to mark my timing mark on the crank so it would be easier to see and then the pump just wouldn't work again IDK why it was working perfectly and the pump is less then a year old.

vindeezl

iTrader: (2)

Easy explanation : electric fuel pumps die

Especially if it was replaced with a cheapo, had one die in less than that time period

If you think the pump is guaranteed good jumper it at the connector at the tank and if it still doesn't come on, it's dead. Please don't cut an access hole.

89flyboy

It is an Autozone pump I have never had issues with them before, maybe a factory dud? Idk I already have the exhause off I am going to have to drop the tank and replace it, oh well I read the leads should be replaced at the same time maybe they were not done and that could cause the problem?? I also tried running my canister hoses the right way maybe that killed it lol. This is why my other T/A is a 77

vindeezl

iTrader: (2)

Unless you replaced it with a Walbro (reboxed as Holley Edelbrock etc.) then you bought a junker for probably ~$50 and I'm surprised it lasted that long, vatozone parts are no bueno

Like I said try putting 12v to the plug for the pump @ the tank, that bypasses all the wiring bullshit

89flyboy

Thanks for all of the help guys. I ran a jumper wire from the battery to the G terminal of the ALDL and the pump worked so I need to grab my Ohms meter and start checking volts at connections to find out where my issue is coming from.

Copchaser

iTrader: (2)

sounds like a short. Glad you are making progress. Let us know the outcome.

89flyboy

Will do I hate checking wires and running them. Seems like I will miss this cruising season but next year she will be ready and good to go lol.

89flyboy

Update I reran the jumper wire and wiggled the pig tail running to the fuel pump relay and the pump died even with it jumpered, maybe I need a new pig tail. I also hear air in the system when the pump is running but no fuel leaking out???? Maybe a regulator??? But that was changed under a year ago. Any ideas???
Thanks,
Josh

Copchaser

iTrader: (2)

Not sure I follow ur last post. If u got power direct from the battery, then ur pump is fine. Do continuity test through your wiring to find the short. Test your relay and make sure it is working properly. By what u are saying, it seems as though you have loose wire, causing an open in the circuit and therefore not getting power to a perfectly fine fuel pump. Double check your grounds also.

89flyboy

I had the jumper wire ran straight from my battery to the G terminal of the OBD1 (ALDL) connector like my Haynes manual said to do to check pump flow, and the pump was running. While it was jumped I wiggled the wires that ran into my relay and the pump died. So I took off the pig tail and the wires inside were all loose and black. I took some electrical parts cleaner and cleaned them off. Then I took a flat head and repaired the connection the best I could (GM wants 65 dollars for the new connector. Hooked it back up and she purrs like a kitten, got the timing set, need to finish welding the exhaust up and then she will go to smog (fingers crossed)
Thanks for all the help and ideas,
Josh

vindeezl

iTrader: (2)

3rd gen relays are pandora's box, they work and are never touched or go completely haywire.

I'd say since you've found the prob, which is pretty common, and fixed it (right on) just keep an eye out for another relay at picknpull and snag a spare or maybe a relay / connector combo and splice it in.

Good luck with SMOG (you're gonna need it)

89flyboy

Ya smog makes me very nervous this car sat for over a yr I know I just need a connector and I can order one through Orielly for 17.00 (GM wants 65) But I am on a budget so that will have to wait. Thanks for all of the help everyone.

Copchaser

iTrader: (2)

Glad u got it fixed, good work good luck with the smog!

89flyboy

Ok so I got a 60 day temp tag on Friday and have been driving her sense. I took her for a pre-check yesterday. On the way a saw a guy with a red 89 GTA and told him about this group. The smog guy said my numbers were high but still in legal limits. The only thing that failed was the pressure in the evap system. He said he didn't hear any leaking up front so it maybe by or on the tank.Wish I woulda known that before I welded up my exhaust. So now its time to chase hoses.

porkyzilla

iTrader: (1)

a paid diagnostic is gonna be your fastest way, take it to a smog machine and let them use the smoke machine. i wouldnt pay more than $120 in a diag fee.

UnderCover89TBI

iTrader: (25)

I bet you the tank is cracked around where the filler neck meets the tank, thats where mine was. And since I am super lazy and dont wanna pull or buy a new tank, i got some of the gas tank epoxy and smeared it all around and got her done...haha...still holding 3 years later

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

^what he said.

Copchaser

iTrader: (2)

Or jb weld

UnderCover89TBI

iTrader: (25)

that works, the stuff i used was designed specifically for fuel tank repairs and is available at auto parts store..but I am only assuming that is where his leak is, could be somewhere else.

89flyboy

Ok its been a while sense I updated this thread I got it checked out and found out it was the seal on top of the gas tank. So back out went the exhaust DANG IT and the rear end was dropped and everything. Got the tank out and seal replaced. As I was putting the tank back in I broke the pressure relief valve so I had to find a new one of those. Thank goodness for Pick-n-pull. Now when I take off the gas cap I get a pressure release sound.....Sweet sound of victory. But now when I drive I get a whine from my rear end???? This is turning into the one thing leads to another project. But at this rate I will have a brand new car lol.

vindeezl

iTrader: (2)

Welcome to thirdgen ownership!

89flyboy

Lol third gen or just car ownership? My 2nd gen is the same way. But its ok now that I am divorced she can take my money instead of a woman ROTFL.

89flyboy

Well it happened again. I went to 7 eleven to get a drink the other day came out tried to start her and just rotates no fuel pump. Had her towed home and ran the jumper again and the pump works. I spend a afternoon in Stockton getting parts came home replaced the fuel pump relay again and the pig tail still nothing. I was told there maybe a shutoff switch on the fuel rail on the passenger side fuel rail that tells the ECM when the fuel rail is primed to kill the pump. I have two parts that screw into my fuel rail one looks like a fuel filter, it has a screw in nipple on the one end and a wire coming off the back end, and another that looks like a oil pressure switch that has two wires running to it. I unplugged them both and still no pump on key on but when I rotate it it catches but doesn't fully start........Guess its back to the drawing board.

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

there is no such sensor that tells the ecm when the fuel rails are primed. It is strictly on a 2-3second timer to have the fuel pump prime for. What you unplugged is the fuel pressure regulator and the other sensor is probably the air temp sensor under your plenum, not in the fuel rail.

Copchaser

iTrader: (2)

Check ur MAF burnoff relay. It tells the fuel pump when to turn on.